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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/thirteenyearsinm00dree_0 


CHARLES  W.  DREES,  IU>.,  AS  HE  IS  TO-DAY 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN 
MEXICO 

(FROM  LETTERS  OF  CHARLES  W.  DREES) 
EDITED  BY 

ADA  M.  C.  DREES 


PRINTED  FOR  THE  AUTHOR  BY 


THE  ABINGDON  PRESS 

NEW  YORK 


Copyright,  1915,  by 
ADA  M.  C.  DREES 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 


Preface 5 

An  Appreciation 7 

A Personal  Word 9 


Chapter  I 

Sailing  for  Mexico — Incidents  of  voyage — Havana — Arrival  in 
Mexico  City— First  impressions — Death  of  Robert  Butler — ■ 
Visit  to  Pachuca — Fourth  of  July  celebration — First  sermon 
in  Spanish — Guadalupe — Indians  from  Celaya 17 

Chapter  II 

Removal  to  Puebla — First  associate — Establishment  of  Boys’ 
Orphanage — Arrival  of  Mr.  Ludlow’s  family — Dedication  of 
Chapel — Beginning  of  Theological  Seminary — Bachelor’s  Hall 


— Visit  to  Apizaco — Visit  to  Cordoba — Special  feast  days 41 

Chapter  III 

Arrival  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Craver — Visit  of  his  sister— Arrival  of 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Siberts — First  Revolution — Fighting  in  Puebla — 
Arrival  of  Mr.  Luders — Death  of  Mr.  Goethe 64 

Chapter  IV 

Election  of  Porfirio  Diaz — First  mob  attack — First  vacation — 
Marriage — Return  journey — Arrival  in  Puebla 78 


Chapter  V 

Arrival  of  Bishop  Merrill,  Dr.  Dashiell  and  Mr.  Thomas  Price — 
Annual  Meeting — Indian  boys — Visit  to  Atzala — Arrival  of  Miss 
Swaney — Visit  to  Los  Reyes — Arrival  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Barker 
and  Miss  Clara  Mulliner — Murder  of  Indian  boys’  father — 
Another  mob — Appointment  to  Superintendency 91 

Chapter  VI 

Visit  to  Pachuca  and  Omitlan — -Arrival  of  Dr.  Gilman — Visit  to 
Orizava  and  Cordoba — Visit  to  Guanajuato  and  Queretaro — Visit 
to  San  Vicente  and  Miraflores — Dedication  of  Chapel  in  Puebla 
— Visit  to  Vera  Cruz  and  Cordoba — Arrival  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Umpleby 108 


Chapter  VII 

An  interesting  story — Arrival  of  Bishop  Harris — Visit  to  the  In- 
terior— Purchase  of  property  in  Guanajuato — Tom-  of  inspec- 
tion with  Bishop  Harris — A priest’s  story- — Removal  to  Mexico 
City — Arrival  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Greenman — Visit  to  Pachuca 
and  Tezontepec — Diligence  experiences — Dedication  of  Chapel 
in  Apizaco — Wreck  of  the  City  of  Vera  Cruz — Another  journey 
to  the  Interior — Dedication  of  Chapel  in  Guanajuato 123 


CONTENTS 


Chapter  VIII 


PAGE 


Annual  Meeting — Queretaro  mob — Return  to  Mexico  City — Visit 
to  Guanajuato  and  Leon — Arrival  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Kemble — 
Return  to  Queretaro— Opening  Services  in  Queretaro — Visit  to 
Leon — Tour  of  Pachuca  District — Another  trip  to  the  Interior 
— Illness  of  Mr.  Luders — Arrival  of  Dr.  Fuentes 140 


Chapter  IX 

Property  matters  in  Tulancingo — Journey  to  Vera  Cruz — Arrival 
of  Bishop  Andrews — Arrival  of  Dr.  Wood — Death  of  Mr. 
Luders — Visit  to  Interior — Appointed  Treasurer — Visit  to 
Huatusco — Visit  to  Pachuca — Dedication  of  Chapel  at  Real 


del  Monte — -First  R.  R.  journey  to  the  Interior 163 

Chapter  X 

Purchase  of  property  in  Orizava  and  Puebla — Visit  homo — Re- 
turn to  Mexico 181 


Chapter  XI 

Arrival  of  Bishop  Warren  and  family — Ascent  of  Popocatepetl — 
Visit  to  an  Indian  town — Arrival  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  L.  C.  Smith 
— Death  of  first  Protestant  Minister  in  Queretaro — First  through 
train  on  Mexican  Central  R.  R. — Arrival  of  Miss  Le  Huray — 

Visit  to  Silao  and  Guanajuato — Arrival  of  Directors  of  Mexican 
Central  R.  R. — Visit  to  mountain  district  of  Peubla — History 
repeats  itself — Celaya  Mob — 16th  of  September  celebration — 
Arrival  of  Miss  Loyd — Inauguration  of  President  Diaz 189 

Chapter  XII 

Arrival  of  Bishop  Harris  and  J.  M.  Phillips — Organization  of  An- 
nual Conference — Assault  on  Gamboa — Evangelistic  tom-  with 
L.  C.  Smith — Visit  to  Sierra  of  Puebla — Arrival  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Salmans — Special  festivities  at  Guadalupe — Visit  to  District 
of  Pachuca — Arrival  of  Bishop  Foster 215 

Chapter  XIII 

Districting  of  Conference — Bishop  Foster’s  visit — American  Hos- 
pital— Purchase  of  property  for  Woman’s  Foreign  Missionary 
Society  in  Mexico  City — Tour  of  Pachuca  District  with  L.  B. 
Salmans — Visit  to  Morelia  and  Patzcuaro — Special  festivities 
of  16th  of  September — Call  to  South  America — Departure  from 
Mexico 229 


Appendix 


The  Drees  Family 244 

College  Life 248 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


Charles  W.  Drees,  D.D.,  as  he  is  to-day Frontispiece 

Mr.  Drees  as  a College  Student Facing  page  78 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Drees  at  the  time  of  their  Departure 

from  Mexico Facing  page  229 


PREFACE 


An  apology,  if  one  be  needed,  for  offering  to  the  church 
at  large,  and  to  his  personal  friends  in  particular,  some 
salient  features  of  the  biography  of  Charles  W.  Drees, 
and  especially  his  experiences  in  Mexico,  is  found  in  the 
following  letter  written  to  Dr.  J.  M.  Buckley,  Editor  of 
The  Christian  Advocate. 

We  quote  from  the  letter:  “I  certainly  hope  that  your 
suggestion  as  to  personal  biographies  of  missionaries 
may  be  carried  out,  for  in  no  other  way  can  the  whole 
church  ever  know  what  has  been  borne  and  done  by  these 
brave  souls  in  strange  lands,  and  amid  scenes  that  can- 
not be  imagined  here. 

“In  Mexico,  for  instance,  where  I had  the  honor  to 
spend  a few  years  of  hard  and  dangerous  service,  there 
might  be  written  a history  surpassing  Stevens’s  wonder- 
ful book  on  American  Methodism,  in  elements  of  romance, 
heroic  courage,  and  martyrdom  for  Christ’s  sake. 

“Among  the  early  workers  there  whose  names  deserve 
to  be  immortalized  in  Methodist  annals  are  the  Butler 
family,  father  and  son,  inaugurators  of  the  Mexican 
mission;  Graver,  the  founder  of  that  of  Guanajuato; 
Siberts,  the  principal  of  Puebla  Seminary;  Smith,  the 
evangelist  and  story-teller;  Greenman,  the  invader  of 
those  two  fanatical  strongholds,  Queretaro  and  Celaya ; 
and  Salmans,  the  medical  missionary. 

“Besides  these  there  were  Monroy,  Fernandez,  Palacios, 
Loza,  Gamboa,  and  other  Mexican  ministers,  worthy  to 
stand  in  the  foremost  rank. 


5 


c 


PREFACE 


“But,  among  them  all,  Charles  W.  Drees  stands  con- 
spicuous as  the  heroic  leader  of  that  little  band  who  laid 
there  the  foundations  of  our  work  in  the  days  of  persecu- 
tion unto  death.  Physically  as  well  as  mentally  an 
athlete,  he  was  always  ready  in  every  time  of  peril,  on 
the  first  indication  of  danger,  to  hasten  to  the  threatened 
point  and  expose  his  life  freely  for  the  sake  of  the 
brethren.  He  was  a broad  scholar,  a constant  traveler,  a 
wise  counselor,  an  able  editor,  a faultless  financier. 

“(Signed)  Duston  Kemble.” 
The  letters  found  in  this  book,  written  with  no  thought 
of  their  going  beyond  the  limits  of  the  home  circle,  and 
whose  preservation  is  due  to  a mother’s  interest  in  them, 
are  given  publicity  in  their  original  form,  believing  that 
in  their  unaffected  and  familiar  style  they  will  be  more 
attractive  and  serve  better  the  purpose  in  view,  than  a 
more  formal  account  of  the  experiences  related  in  them. 

A.  M.  C.  D. 


AN  APPRECIATION 


The  experiences  and  achievements  of  Dr.  C.  W.  Drees 
in  Spanish  America  have  been  various  and  monumental, 
and  those  relating  to  Mexico  are  fairly  but  not  extrava- 
gantly set  forth  in  this  volume.  The  writer  has  been  his 
constant  and  sympathetic  companion  and  co-worker,  and 
has  had  no  small  share  in  the  toils  and  triumphs  here 
recorded. 

He  graduated  from  the  Ohio  Wesleyan  University  in 
1871,  and  from  the  School  of  Theology  of  Boston  Uni- 
versity in  1874,  when  he  was  appointed  a missionary  of 
the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  to  the  Republic  of 
Mexico.  Here  he  spent  twelve  years,  acquiring  a thorough 
mastery  of  the  Spanish  language  and  carrying  forward 
important  work.  In  1887  he  was  sent  to  Eastern  South 
American,  where  he  has  spent  twenty-one  years,  residing 
most  of  that  period  in  Buenos  Ayres,  the  capital  of 
Argentine  Republic. 

During  an  interval  of  four  years  he  was  stationed  in 
Porto  Rico,  superintending  the  organization  of  the  Meth- 
odist Episcopal  Church  in  that  island.  At  this  writing 
he  is  in  Spain,  assisting  in  the  revision  of  the  Spanish 
Bible  for  which,  by  reason  of  his  familarity  with  the 
Spanish  language  and  scholarly  attainments,  he  has 
special  fitness. 

From  1888  to  1912,  as  Corresponding  Secretary  of  the 
Missionary  Society  and  of  the  Board  of  Foreign  Missions 
of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  I was  closely  related 
to  Dr.  Drees,  and  gladly  bear  testimony  to  his  fidelity, 

7 


8 


AN  APPRECIATION 


diligence,  ability,  and  success.  During  a considerable 
part  of  the  time  spent  in  South  America,  Dr.  Drees  was 
treasurer  of  the  mission  and  was  noted  for  accuracy  and 
skill  in  the  management  of  financial  affairs  in  general, 
and  in  not  a few  critical  and  important  instances. 

The  cause  of  Protestant  Missions  in  Spanish  America 
will  be  greatly  enhanced  by  the  publication  of  this  volume. 

New  York  City.  A.  B.  Leonard. 


A PERSONAL  WORD 


My  part  in  the  responsibility  for  this  book  is  limited 
almost  absolutely  and  entirely  to  consent  to  its  prepara- 
tion and  publication ; and  such  consent  has  been  given 
only  in  deference  to  the  opinion  expressed  by  many  who 
had  come  to  know  of  the  existence  of  the  letters,  of  which 
it  is  almost  entirely  made  up,  that  the  account  they 
contain  of  experiences  as  recorded  at  the  time  and  with- 
out any  expectation  of  their  publication,  or  even  of  their 
preservation,  would  be  of  interest  to  many  and  of  service 
to  the  cause  of  missions. 

The  preservation  of  the  letters,  unknown  and  unsus- 
pected for  all  the  years  till  long  after  our  removal  from 
Mexico  to  South  America,  was  due  to  the  tender  love  of 
a mother  who  could  not  bring  herself  to  destroy  any  line 
that  had  come  to  her  from  her  children  so  far  from  home, 
and  passing  through  experiences  which  were  often  to  her 
the  occasion  of  keen  apprehension  and  anxiety. 

It  has  seemed  to  me  best  that,  if  published  at  all,  they 
should  retain  all  the  characteristics  they  bear  as  giving 
impressions  and  experiences  of  current  days  and  events, 
unchanged  by  any  process  of  later  reflection  or  attempted 
completion.  Here  will  not  be  found  biography,  nor  his- 
tory, nor  continuous  travel  description.  There  is  no  dis- 
cussion of  problems  of  missionary  theory  or  practice. 
Mexico  as  a mission  field  has  found  other  authors  to 
represent  it,  notably  among  them  the  first  superintendent, 
Dr.  William  Butler,  and  his  son,  the  Rev.  J.  W.  Butler, 
D.D.  Missions  in  Roman  Catholic  countries  have  been 


9 


10 


A PERSONAL  WORD 


widely  discussed  and  advocated,  and  are  better  under- 
stood than  when  I was  called  into  this  field.  These  letters 
may  afford  some  illustrations  of  both  themes,  but  they 
are  not  an  ordered  discussion  of  them. 

My  call  to  Mexico  came  within  less  than  a year  after  the 
opening  of  the  mission,  and  came  th rough  two  magnificent 
leaders  of  the  church,  Bishops  Gilbert  Haven  and 
Matthew  Simpson.  The  former  had  preceded  the  newly 
appointed  superintendent,  Dr.  William  Butler,  in  enter- 
ing and  exploring  the  field ; had  been  joined  by  the  latter, 
and  visited  Puebla,  which  was  to  be  my  field,  and  fixed 
his  mind  upon  the  property  which  was  to  be  the  home 
of  the  mission  and  missionary  in  that  city. 

His  exploration  accomplished,  and  the  general  lines  of 
the  projected  work  laid  down  in  consultation  with  Dr. 
Butler,  Bishop  Haven  took  his  journey  homeward,  over- 
land, full  of  generous  enthusiasm,  to  look  for  money  and 
men  for  the  enterprise.  It  so  turned  out  that  on  his 
way  he  spent  a Sunday  in  Xenia,  Ohio,  my  childhood 
home.  Having  preached  in  the  forenoon  in  the  First 
Church,  both  churches  united  in  the  evening  at  Trinity, 
to  hear  an  address  by  the  bishop  on  Mexico. 

At  its  close,  with  many  of  the  congregation,  my  parents 
were  introduced  to  the  bishop  with  the  remark  that  they 
had  a son  in  preparation  at  Boston  for  the  ministry. 
Turning  to  my  mother,  the  bishop  said  : “You  have  a 
boy  in  Boston  Theological  Seminary?  Will  you  give 
him  to  me  for  Mexico?”  The  answer  was  a prompt  nega- 
tive, and  not  till  long  afterward  did  the  mother  say  a 
word  of  the  pang  that  shot  to  her  heart  with  the  bishop’s 
demand. 

A little  more  than  a year  later,  her  boy  was  at  home 
for  the  farewell  visit,  the  unthought-of  having  come  to 
pass ; and  in  one  of  those  holy  confidences  between  mother 
and  son,  she  told  of  the  secret  struggle  and  victory  that 


A PERSONAL  WORD 


11 


had  brought  her  to  assure  her  boy  that  he  would  go 
with  her  free  consent  and  blessing. 

It  was  from  Bishop  Simpson  that  I received  my  epis- 
copal appointment.  He  had  just  returned  from  his  visit 
to  Mexico,  and  brought  back  the  urgent  plea  of  the 
superintendent  for  reinforcements,  the  first  response  to 
which  was  to  be  given  in  the  appointment  of  John  W. 
Butler  and  myself  to  that  field. 

That  prince  of  pulpit  orators  and  great  missionary 
secretaries,  Dr.  Thomas  M.  Eddy,  gave  me  my  official 
notification  of  acceptance  by  the  board  for  Mexico,  and 
my  instructions  for  the  field.  He  was,  if  I mistake  not, 
a native  of  Ohio,  and  his  father  had  been  my  mother’s 
pastor  in  her  youth  and  received  her  into  the  church. 

But  for  the  limitations  of  its  plan,  there  would  be 
much  to  say,  in  these  pages,  of  the  chief  under  whom  I 
served  my  apprenticeship,  and  of  my  associates  during 
the  period  of  my  service  in  Mexico.  What  space  permits 
I may  as  well  set  down  here.  Of  the  former,  Dr.  William 
Butler,  what  need  to  write?  His  name  and  service  are 
an  open  book,  known  and  read  of  all  men.  His  experience 
of  Roman  Catholicism  in  youth,  his  conversion  at  a Meth- 
odist altar  of  prayer,  and  his  service  as  secretary  of  the 
American  and  Foreign  Christian  Union,  had  peculiarly 
fitted  him  to  understand  the  need  of  missions  in  Roman 
Catholic  countries,  and  the  methods  which  would  most 
contribute  to  their  success.  The  prestige  acquired  in  his 
service  in  India,  his  power  as  an  orator,  the  intensity  of 
his  emotional  nature,  his  utter  forgetfulness  of  all  minor 
sacrifices  in  enthusiasm  for  his  work,  made  him  an  in- 
spiring leader,  and  fitted  him  in  a peculiar  manner  for 
representative  action  in  relation  with  the  authorities 
of  the  church  and  with  those  of  the  country  in  which  he 
labored.  His  vision  was  broad  and  his  faith  in  God 
triumphant. 


12 


A PERSONAL  WORD 


Among  my  associates  I cannot  count  Dr.  Thomas 
Carter,  the  first  missionary  sent  out  after  the  opening  of 
the  mission.  His  stay  was  brief,  although  his  service 
must  have  been  of  importance  in  the  first  stages  of  the 
work,  as  he  had  acquired  some  knowledge  of  Spanish  in 
South  America,  where  T was  to  find  in  after  years  abiding 
fruits  of  his  service  in  that  field.  He  had  returned  to  the 
United  States  before  my  arrival  in  Mexico. 

Of  Dr.  Carter’s  successor,  Dr.  William  H.  Cooper,  I 
have  only  recollections  of  veneration  and  gratitude.  He 
was  somewhat  advanced  in  years,  an  Anglican  clergyman, 
who  had  acquired  a fine  command  of  Spanish  while  in 
service  as  resident  chaplain  in  Malaga,  Spain.  He  ac- 
cepted appointment  to  the  pastorate  of  our  Mexico  City 
church,  and  held  that  post  for  nearly  two  years,  tiding 
the  work  over  the  period  to  elapse  before  the  regular  con- 
stitution of  our  mission  staff.  To  his  kindness  and  un- 
paid tutorship,  supplementing  the  services  of  my  Spanish 
teacher,  I was  much  indebted  lor  progress  in  acquir- 
ing the  language,  and  to  his  encouragement  was  largely 
due  the  fact  that  I was  able,  within  a little  over  four 
months  after  my  arrival  in  Mexico,  to  essay  mv  first 
sermon  in  Spanish.  It  was  written  and  read  from  the 
pulpit,  but  was  followed  almost  immediately  by  extem- 
poraneous address  in  outlying  points,  and  soon  in  the 
central  church  in  Mexico  City. 

The  organization  of  the  regular  staff  of  missionaries 
began,  practically,  with  the  appointment  of  John  W. 
Butler  and  myself  to  the  field,  to  be  followed  two  years 
later  by  Samuel  P.  Craver  and  Samuel  W.  Siberts,  who 
came  out  as  married  missionaries.  We  four  formed  the 
first  quaternion  at  the  orders  of  our  chief.  We  had  been 
fellow  students  in  the  Boston  School  of  Theology,  and,  of 
course,  had  many  things  in  common. 

Later  came  J.  M.  Barker  and  G.  S.  Umpleby,  also  from 


A PERSONAL  WORD 


13 


Boston;  A.  W.  Greenman  and  Duston  Kemble  from  Gar- 
rett Biblical  Institute;  L.  B.  Salmans  and  G.  B.  Hyde 
from  Drew  Theological  Seminary ; and  L.  C.  Smith,  who 
had  passed  his  missionary  apprenticeship  in  the  “Taylor 
Missions”  in  Chile,  and  was  full  of  evangelistic  zeal. 

We  were  a congenial  band  of  workers;  knew  each  other 
well;  with  little  disparity  in  age  between  us.  We  knew 
each  other’s  faults  and  foibles,  as  well  as  virtues;  we 
could  differ  in  judgment,  give  and  take  in  discussion,  and, 
above  all,  rally  ever  to  the  standard.  The  friendships 
formed  were  abiding,  and  it  was  my  good  fortune  to  be 
associated  with  some  of  the  band  in  later  years  in  South 
America,  where  the  needs  of  the  work  called  for  others 
as  well  as  myself. 

Greenman,  Craver,  and  Siberts  of  the  parent  board, 
and  Misses  Le  Huray,  Swaney,  and  Hewett  of  the 
Woman’s  Foreign  Missionary  Society,  all  were  trans- 
ferred to  South  America,  in  response  to  the  call  of  emer- 
gencies in  that  field. 

Of  the  missionaries  of  the  AVoman’s  Foreign  Mission- 
ary Society,  my  associations  were  chiefly  with  Misses 
Hastings  and  AArarner,  who  had  preceded  me  in  arrival, 
and  with  Misses  Swaney,  Le  Huray,  Mulliner,  and  Loyd. 
These  women  entered  upon  the  field,  faced  its  difficulties 
and  discouragements,  solved  its  first  problems  in  relation 
with  the  womanhood  of  Mexico,  won  its  first  successes  in 
Mexico  City,  Pachuca,  and  Puebla,  and  laid  the  founda- 
tions of  the  magnificent  work  whose  marvelous  develop- 
ment is  the  pride  of  their  society  and  of  the  mission. 

Over  the  names  of  the  Mexican  brethren  of  that  period 
one  would  delight  to  linger  and  preserve  here  the  me- 
morial, were  it  not  already  written  in  the  deeds  they 
wrought  and  the  service  they  rendered  to  the  cause  of  the 
reformation  of  their  native  land.  Felipe  N.  Cordova,  a 
soldier  of  his  country  in  the  vindication  of  its  liberties 


14 


A PERSONAL  WORD 


before  lie  became  a soldier  iu  the  cause  of  its  moral  and 
spiritual  regeneration ; Simon  Loza,  brought  to  Christ 
and  trained  in  service  for  a widely  useful  ministry  under 
the  influence  of  S.  P.  Graver;  Monroy,  the  martyr,  and 
Fernandez  and  Espinoza,  the  pioneers;  Austin  Palacios, 
former  priest  and  distinguished  servant  of  Rome  until 
he  became  one  of  the  very  first  converts  to  the  truth  of 
the  gospel  and,  after  much  and  effective  service  in  arous- 
ing his  countrymen,  brought  to  Methodism  the  tribute  of 
his  ripest  ministry — these  with  others  formed  the  older 
staff. 

Then  came  the  men  who  formed  the  first  classes  in  the 
Theological  Seminary,  which  it  fell  to  me  to  establish  in 
Puebla.  They  were  my  “boys,”  if  I may  venture  to  make 
use  here  of  the  familiar  term ; Luders,  at  once  student 
and  teacher,  Abundio  Tovar,  Emigdio  Coronel,  Conrado 
Gamboa,  Justo  M.  Euroza,  Pedro  Flores  Valderrama, 
Severo  Lopez,  Benjamin  N.  Velasco,  and  after  them  Nor- 
bert  Mercado,  Ignacio  Chagoyan,  and  others. 

Memories  of  them,  or  most  of  them,  in  the  class  room, 
of  their  opening  work  in  the  field  after  they  had  been 
thrust  out  to  complete  their  preparation,  Methodist 
fashion,  iu  the  itineracy,  of  their  trials  and  triumphs,  of 
long  leagues  on  horseback  with  them  in  the  sierras  of 
Puebla  and  Hidalgo,  and  over  the  plains  of  Guanajuato, 
mostly  unwritten  history — but  service  inwrought  with 
the  development  of  the  Mexico  mission — of  all  this  only 
the  barest  mention  may  here  be  made. 

Of  those  named,  only  Valderrama,  now  worthily  wear- 
ing the  title  of  Doctor  of  Divinity,  and  President  of  the 
Methodist  Institute  of  Puebla;  Velasco,  also  eminent  for 
service  in  the  educational  field;  Lopez,  long  a district 
superintendent;  Chagoyan,  recently  succeeding  to  that 
title;  and  Mercado,  are  still  iu  the  Mexico  Conference, 
forming  with  the  goodly  number  of  their  associates  the 


A PERSONAL  WORD 


15 


aggressive  leaders  of  Mexico  Methodism,  and  a part  of 
the  larger  force  for  the  working  out  of  the  new  future 
of  their  country. 

It  was  my  fortune  to  know  Mexico  in  and  out  of  revolu- 
tion, in  war  and  in  peace,  and  however  one  must  interpret 
the  recurrent  trials  and  struggles  of  that  country,  he 
may  be  permitted  to  record  his  unshaken  faith  that  out 
of  all  the  turmoil,  and  in  spite  of  reaction  and  conflict, 
there  will  come  a future  in  which  that  beautiful  land 
and  its  people  will  emerge  into  a larger  life  of  peace  and 
material  prosperity,  of  moral  and  spiritual  excellence 
whose  most  vital  cause  will  be  the  influence  of  the  gospel 
of  the  Son  of  God  and  Saviour  of  men. 

Charles  W.  Drees. 

Puerto  de  Santa  Maria,  Spain. 


CHAPTER  I 


(On  the  eve  of  sailing) 

New  York,  April  24,  1874. 

My  dear  Mother: 

1 am  sitting  in  the  Mission  Rooms  while  I write  you 
this  letter.  I reached  New  York  Wednesday  evening, 
and  had  on  the  whole  a pleasant  journey,  saving  a terrible 
headache,  which  kept  me  awake  most  of  Tuesday  night. 
I succeeded,  however,  in  sleeping  it  off  toward  morning, 
and  felt  quite  well  when  I arrived. 

I had  many  very  conflicting  thoughts  and  feelings  dur- 
ing that  day,  which  I need  not  put  on  paper  now.  It 
is  enough  to  say  that,  being  consciously  in  the  path  of 
duty,  I trust  God  and  go  forward. 

I went  to  the  Irving  House  immediately  on  my  arrival, 
where  I am  to  stay  till  the  steamer  goes.  Came  up  here 
yesterday  morning  and  saw  Brother  Butler  and  Dr.  Eddy. 
Now  for  the  result  of  my  conference  with  the  latter.  It 
is  expected  that  Brother  Butler  and  myself  will  remain 
in  the  City  of  Mexico  for  a few  months  studying  the 
language,  and  probably  preaching  frequently  in  English. 
Then  he  is  to  go  to  Orizaba  or  Pachuca,  and  I to  Puebla. 
This  is  conditional  upon  the  state  of  things  in  the  country. 

As  for  furloughs,  they  will  be  more  frequent  than  from 
other  foreign  countries,  how  frequent  I cannot  tell.  My 
address  will  be  5 Calle  de  Gante,  City  of  Mexico,  Mexico. 
Much  love  to  all,  from  Charlie. 

P.  S. — I have  just  received  from  Boston  a gift  of  a full 

17 


18 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


.set  of  Olshausen’s  Commentary,  covering  nearly  all  the 
New  Testament,  seven  or  eight  volumes.  I had  it  on 
the  list  of  books  I wanted  to  buy.  The  gift  was  wholly 
unexpected,  but  all  the  more  acceptable.  A very  kind 
letter  accompanied  it  from  friends  in  Bromfield  Street 
Church,  Brother  Sleeper  and  others.  The  Lord  is  very 
good  to  me  through  his  children.  C.  W.  D. 

(To  his  mother) 

Off  Florida  Reefs,  April  30. 

It  was  a rainy,  disagreeable  day  when  we  left  New 
York,  so  stormy,  indeed,  that  none  of  our  friends  were 
at  the  pier  to  see  us  off,  save  Brother  Terry,  who  went 
down  with  me,  but  had  to  leave  before  we  sailed.  Between 
three  and  four  o'clock  we  moved  off  amid  the  farewells  of 
friends  who  were  being  separated,  the  waving  of  hand- 
kerchiefs and  with  the  firing  of  a salute  from  the  ship’s 
gun.  As  we  went  down  the  Bay  it  became  evident  that 
quite  a gale  was  blowing  outside,  and  when  we  neared 
Sandy  Hook  we  saw  a number  of  other  steamers  and 
sailing  vessels  which  had  anchored  there  for  the  night 
to  wait  for  more  propitious  weather.  The  pilot  recom- 
mended the  same  course  to  our  captain,  and  he  reluc- 
tantly yielded  and  we  soon  learned  that  we  were  to  wait 
there  till  Sunday  morning.  The  vessel  was  already  roll- 
ing considerably,  and  most  of  the  passengers  seemed  to 
find  it  advisable  to  seek  their  berths. 

Earl}7  Sunday  morning  we  got  under  way  again  and 
were  soon  outside  of  Sandy  Hook,  bade  farewell  to  our 
pilot,  and  were  fairly  launched  on  our  voyage.  My  two 
traveling  companions,  John  and  Robert  Butler,  were  too 
far  gone  with  seasickness  to  get  up.  I was  able  to  go  to 
breakfast,  but  soon  had  to  give  up  and  go  to  bed  also. 
All  day  long  the  sea  ran  very  high,  and  the  ship  tossed 
fearfully.  Nearly  everybody  was  sick.  Things  in  our 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


19 


stateroom  kept  up  a lively  motion,  tumbling  about  with 
every  lurch  of  the  ship.  Things  within  us  kept  time  to 
the  general  commotion,  as  was  testified  by  very  unequiv- 
ocal demonstrations.  Robert,  who  is  a natural  tease, 
full  of  life  and  spirits,  had  been  brimming  over  with 
mischief  Saturday  night,  but  was  so  sick  all  day  Sunday 
that  we  heard  not  a word  from  his  stateroom,  which  is 
next  to  ours. 

I have  often  read  of  the  feelings  of  wanderers  leaving 
home  and  country,  on  losing  sight  of  their  native  shores, 
but  could  not  say  that  I partook  of  them  very  fully,  and 
was  half  inclined  to  reproach  myself  for  my  insensibility. 
I think,  however,  I had  them  in  full  measure  when  I left 
home  and  during  the  journey  from  Xenia  to  New  York. 

Monday  was  a delightful  day,  and  with  a smooth  sea 
and  fair  weather,  most  of  the  passengers  were  well,  and 
out  again,  and  we  began  to  find  out  who  our  neighbors 
were,  and  to  make  acquaintances.  There  are  twenty  or 
thirty  cabin  passengers,  some  of  them  Mexicans,  Cubans, 
and  Frenchmen.  The  party  sitting  opposite  us  at  table 
are  very  pleasant  people  from  New  York,  a lady  with 
her  son  and  daughter.  We  six  with  the  captain,  at  whose 
end  of  the  table  we  sit,  make  quite  an  agreeable  company. 

We  have  been  coasting  along  just  out  of  sight  of  land 
until  early  this  morning,  when  we  sighted  the  low  and 
sandy  coast  of  Florida.  We  are  now  heading  for  the 
island  of  Cuba,  which  we  shall  see  iu  the  early  morning. 
The  only  occurrences  that  have  awakened  interest  have 
been  the  sight  of  an  occasional  school  of  porpoises,  keep- 
ing along  with  the  ship  for  a time,  and  then  falling  be- 
hind ; numbers  of  flying  fish  and  sharks,  and  this  after- 
noon several  turtles.  We  passed  to-day  a large  steamer 
aground  on  one  of  the  reefs,  with  wreckers  around  her. 
We  shall  stay  at  Havana  two  days  and  then  sail  for  Vera 
Cruz,  stopping  at  Progreso  and  Campeaehy. 


20 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


As  to  the  prospect  for  my  work,  I think,  on  the  whole, 
it  is  encouraging.  A lady  on  board,  the  wife  of  a gentle- 
man living  in  the  northern  part  of  Mexico,  assures  me 
there  is  no  real  danger  to  life  in  the  country.  The  murder 
of  Stevens  occurred  in  a town  which  is  almost  wholly 
Indian,  a place  of  thieves  and  robbers.  She  says  it  was 
a surprise  even  to  Mexicans  generally,  and  was  not  ap- 
proved by  them.  She  has  great  faith  in  President  Lerdo’s 
government.  She  tells  me  also  of  many  things  which 
seem  great  obstacles  to  evangelization,  but  they  only  prove 
the  great  need  of  gospel  light  and  influence  which  exists 
in  the  country.  . . . 

The  account  of  the  rest  of  the  voyage  is  given  in  his 
first  letter  written  from  the  City  of  Mexico,  early  in  May: 

We  steamed  past  Morro  Castle  and  through  the  narrow 
entrance  to  the  harbor,  and  came  to  anchor  about  two 
o’clock,  Friday  afternoon.  The  health  officer,  Chief  of 
Police,  and  Custom  House  officials  soon  came  on  board, 
and  we  received  special  permission  to  go  on  shore,  the 
captain  of  the  steamer  vouching  for  our  character. 

Havana  is  under  martial  law,  as  I understand,  and  the 
greatest  watchfulness  is  observed  to  prevent  suspicious 
characters  from  going  ashore,  and  to  prevent  Cubans 
from  fleeing  the  country  to  escape  conscription.  All  the 
new  passengers  who  came  on  board  here  were  compelled 
to  show  written  permits  to  leave  the  country.  One  young 
man  and  two  ladies  who  had  come  on  board  were  com- 
pelled, almost  at  the  last  moment,  to  take  their  luggage 
and  go  back.  They  looked  miserable  indeed. 

Our  party  consisted  of  a very  polite  Frenchman  who 
acted  as  guide,  a Mexican,  son  of  the  treasurer  of  the  re- 
public, Mrs.  T..  with  her  son  and  daughter,  a Scotch- 
man, the  two  brothers  Butler,  and  myself.  We  went  in 
the  Chief  of  Police's  boat  and  were  soon  rowed  over  to 
the  landing  place.  From  there  we  walked  up  to  the  plaza 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


21 


of  the  Captain  General’s  palace,  a beautiful  little  park 
filled  with  trees  and  flowers,  whose  freshness  and  beauty 
were  very  grateful  to  us  who  had  been  for  a week  tossed 
on  the  great  deep. 

Theuce  we  walked  a short  distance  further  to  the  cathe- 
dral. It  is  built  of  yellowish  brown  stone,  with  a facade 
ornamented  with  columns  and  niches.  It  is  broken  and 
scarred  with  the  storms  of  centuries,  and  is  not  very 
prepossessing  in  its  outward  appearance,  a fact  which 
well  j) repares  one  for  the  pleasing  surprise  which  awaits 
him  on  entering.  The  lofty  pillars  and  arches  support  a 
ceiling  richly  carved  and  ornamented,  and  a dome  whose 
windows  of  stained  glass  admit  a dim  radiance  which 
greatly  enhances  the  general  effect  of  the  structure. 
Just  within  the  chancel  rail  in  a niche  of  the  wall,  rest 
the  ashes  of  Christopher  Columbus.  The  tablet  which 
closes  the  tomb  bears  a sculptured  portrait  of  the  great 
discoverer  and  an  appropriate  inscription.  Our  con- 
ductor went  after  the  key  and,  opening  their  place  of 
deposit,  showed  to  us  some  of  the  silver  service  formerly 
in  use  but  now  laid  aside. 

Leaving  the  cathedral  we  secured  four  calashes,  low, 
two-seated  vehicles,  drawn  by  donkeys  or  small  horses, 
and  in  procession,  single  file,  proceeded  on  our  way.  We 
attracted  no  little  attention  as  we  threaded  the  narrow 
streets.  Many  a black  negress  would  stand  on  the  foot 
path  and  display  her  ivory,  or  the  place  where  the  ivory 
ought  to  be,  as  we  passed. 

The  next  place  we  visited  was  the  Church  of  the  Angels, 
of  no  great  interest.  Thence  we  debouched  into  the  Paseo, 
or  fashionable  driveway  of  the  city,  a broad  thoroughfare 
with  a walk  in  the  center,  ornamented  with  long  rows  of 
trees.  Turning  from  this  we  were  soon  at  the  church  of 
Our  Merciful  Lady.  This  is  a magnificent  new  church, 
not  yet  quite  completed.  It  is  very  highly  finished  and 


oo 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


elaborately  decorated.  The  floor  is  of  tesselated  marble. 
The  ceiling  of  the  central  nave  is  supported  by  lofty 
pillars  and  arches.  The  whole  interior  of  walls,  columns, 
and  ceiling  is  pure  white,  but  the  combination  of  different 
colored  glass  in  the  windows  above  diffuses  over  the  whole 
a delicate,  subdued  tint  that  is  almost  pink. 

The  high  altar  is  beautiful  indeed  in  its  gilding  and 
drapery.  It  is  crowned  by  a colossal  figure  of  the 
Virgin  which  has  just  been  completed.  Heavy  crim- 
son curtains  conceal  it  from  observation  save  at 
such  times  as  it  is  desired  to  display  it  to  the  de- 
luded worshipers.  The  priest  who  conducted  us  asked 
if  we  were  Protestants,  and  on  learning  we  were, 
he  took  us  up  a flight  of  stone  steps  to  the  elevation  on 
which  the  image  is  erected,  and  gave  us  opportunity  for 
a close  inspection,  which  would  not  probably  be  allowed 
the  multitude  of  Catholics  whose  subjection  to  the  church 
is  secured  largely  by  the  air  of  mystery  which  surrounds 
the  worship  of  the  mother  church.  Besides  this  main 
altar  there  are  in  the  church  not  less  than  six  lesser 
shrines.  Everywhere  we  saw  the  human  mother  of  Christ 
exalted,  while  her  divine  Son,  the  Saviour,  seemed  almost 
ignored.  Will  the  day  ever  come  when  these  temples  shall 
be  consecrated  to  a purer  worship,  and  filled  with  wor- 
shipers inspired  with  the  power  of  a vital  Christianity? 

When  we  had  completed  our  survey  and  freed  ourselves 
from  the  garrulous  priest,  we  found  it  was  time  to  return 
to  the  steamer,  so  we  bade  farewell  to  our  kind  French- 
man and,  taking  a little  boat,  were  soon  in  our  quarters 
on  board  ship.  That  night  we  saw  Havana  as  it  ap- 
peared in  the  illumination  of  its  thousand  lights,  and 
later,  as  the  moon  rose  and  cast  her  soft  radiance  over 
bay  and  city,  hiding  its  defects  and  bringing  out  its  lines 
of  beauty. 

We  went  ashore  again  next  morning,  and  drove  out  to 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


23 


the  Captain  General’s  gardens,  outside  the  city.  As  to 
my  general  impressions  of  Havana  they  are  not  very 
favorable.  The  streets  are  narrow  and  dirty,  the  houses 
look  dilapidated,  and  the  people  one  meets  are  dirty,  and 
look  as  if  all  the  true  manhood  in  them  had  been  per- 
verted and  lost. 

Havana  has  a magnificent  harbor.  Its  entrance  is  very 
narrow,  not  more  than  two  hundred  yards  wide,  but 
within  is  a large  expanse  of  deep  water,  secure  from 
storms,  where  a natiou’s  commerce  might  find  anchorage. 
There  is  ample  opportunity  for  miles  of  wharfage  where 
ships  might  unload  their  burdens,  but  not  a single  wharf 
has  ever  been  built.  Ships  must  lie  at  anchor  off  shore 
and  discharge  cargo  into  clumsy  boats,  called  lighters, 
while  passengers  must  be  rowed  ashore  in  small  boats. 
All  this  is  just  as  it  was  two  hundred  years  ago. 

Finally,  at  sunset  on  Saturday,  we  heaved  our  anchor 
and  steamed  out  past  the  old  castle  and  lighthouse,  and 
took  our  way  westward  to  Progreso.  We  arrived  there 
without  incident,  save  that  a rough  sea  kept  many  of  the 
passengers  sick  all  day  Sunday.  We  were  so  unfortunate 
as  to  fall  upon  a national  holiday,  the  oth  of  May,  the 
anniversary  of  the  defeat  of  the  French  before  Puebla. 
Not  a man  could  be  got  to  work,  so  we  were  delayed 
twenty-four  hours,  and  lay  idly  swinging  in  the  waters  all 
the  hot  day,  with  no  employment  save  to  watch  the 
sharks,  which  lingered  about  the  ship,  but  could  not  be 
induced  to  take  the  baited  hooks  we  threw  overboard 
to  them. 

At  last  we  weighed  anchor  and  were  off  to  our  last 
port  before  Vera  Cruz.  This  was  Campeachy,  where  we 
lay  all  Tuesday  moruing.  Then,  with  a feeling  of  relief, 
we  heard  the  creaking  of  the  capstan  as  the  anchor  came 
slowly  from  its  ocean  bed,  for  it  announced  to  us  that  we 
were  entering  upon  the  last  stage  of  our  journey. 


24 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


All  night  and  all  day  Friday  we  plowed  the  waves,  with 
the  speed  of  steam  and  breeze,  and,  just  as  the  sun  was 
sinking  behind  the  far  inland  summit  of  snow-crowned 
Orizaba,  we  came  to  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Vera  Cruz. 

Shortly  before  this,  we  saw  in  a small  boat  at  a dis- 
tance, Dr.  Butler  and  one  of  his  daughters,  waving  wel- 
come to  my  two  traveling  companions.  As  soon  as  the 
health  officers  and  customs  officials  had  come  on  board  and 
the  way  was  clear,  we  took  our  satchels  and  went  ashore, 
leaving  our  baggage  to  be  forwarded  by  our  agent  in 
Vera  Cruz.  We  had  supper  at  the  hotel  and  then  went 
to  call  on  the  American  Consul,  I)r.  Trowbridge,  and  at 
two  o’clock  in  the  morning  took  the  train  for  Mexico  City. 
At  half  past  nine,  Saturday  evening,  we  found  ourselves 
at  our  journey’s  end.  I have  been  very  kindly  received 
by  Dr.  Butler  and  his  family,  and  all  the  members  of  the 
mission,  and  will  soon  be  at  work.  Indeed,  I began  by 
preaching  to  the  English  congregation  yesterday  morning. 
I did  not  feel  in  any  condition  to  do  it,  but  could  not  well 
avoid  it.  I did  the  best  I could  under  the  circumstances, 
but  fear  I did  not  create  a very  favorable  impression. 

I have  so  much  to  write  that  I have  not  time  or  space 
for,  that  I scarce  know  what  to  leave  out,  though  I must 
leave  many  things  till  the  next  mail.  Letter  writing  is 
expensive  in  Mexico.  I am  compelled  to  pay  twenty-five 
cents  for  every  letter  I receive,  and  for  every  letter  I send, 
as  well  as  extra  postage  on  all  papers  and  periodicals.  I 
would  be  glad  if  you  would  mail  me  the  Western,  after 
you  have  read  it  at  home.  This  until  I get  settled  here, 
and  find  out  what  my  expenses  ai*e  to  be,  and  see  how 
much  I can  afford  for  periodicals.  I cannot  well  get  along 
without  some  papers  from  the  States.  I should  lose  the 
course  of  events  and  get  far  behind  the  times. 

I think  of  you  all  very  often.  I hope  you  are  not 
anxious  about  me.  There  is  no  present  occasion  for  fear. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


25 


I shall  be  prudent  and  do  my  duty  in  the  fear  of  God, 
and  we  can  surely  leave  results  with  him.  . . . 

(To  his  parents) 

Mexico  City,  May  27,  1874. 

It  is  now  more  than  five  weeks  since  I left  home,  and 
not  a word  have  I heard  from  you,  but  if  the  steamer  is 
not  delayed,  I may  expect  to  have  letters  next  Saturday, 
and  how  eagerly  do  I await  that  day ! After  this  I may 
hope  to  have  letters  at  least  once  in  three  weeks. 

I find  my  present  place  of  abode  very  pleasant.  Brother 
Butler  and  myself  occupy  temporarily  a room  on  the 
ground  floor  of  the  mission  premises.  Our  rooms  are  be- 
ing fitted  up  in  the  cloisters.  The  whole  establishment 
is  in  the  chaos  and  consequent  discomfort  incident  to  the 
necessary  preparations  to  make  it  habitable.  There  are 
carpenters,  masons,  and  painters  making  noise,  dirt,  and 
confusion  everywhere.  We  are  now  beginning  to  see  the 
end  of  the  work  at  present  projected.  Dr.  Butler  moved 
in  here  three  weeks  ago,  before  the  place  was  really  com- 
fortable, in  order  to  save  another  month’s  rent  of  the 
house  before  occupied. 

I have  spent  the  last  three  weeks  in  studying,  working, 
and  idling,  looking  forward  to  the  time  when  things 
shall  be  so  fixed  that  it  will  be  possible  for  me  to  really 
settle  down.  A Spanish  teacher  has  been  engaged,  and 
we  now  have  three  lessons  a week.  I am  picking  up  a 
little  of  the  language,  and  hope  by  October  to  start  out 
into  my  field  of  labor.  I have  surely  every  motive  to 
prompt  me  to  the  most  earnest  work  in  the  acquirement 
of  the  language. 

To  give  you  an  idea  of  the  expense  of  living  in  Mexico, 
I need  only  say  that  I have  to  pay  thirty-three  dollars 
per  month  for  my  board.  This  includes  lighting  and  fur- 
nishing my  room,  but  not  room  rent,  which  of  course  is 


26 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


nothing.  Washing  is  not  included.  Most  of  the  ordinary 
expenses  of  living  here  are  much  higher  than  in  the  States. 

I find  that  the  field  of  labor  designated  for  me  is 
Puebla  de  los  Angeles.  As  soon  as  I know  enough  Span- 
ish to  know  whether  anyone  accosting  me  is  a friend  or 
foe,  I am  to  go  thither.  The  city  of  Puebla  is  the  second 
city  in  importance  in  the  republic,  and  is  situated  about 
ninety  miles  southeast  of  Mexico  City.  It  has  sixty  or 
seventy  thousand  inhabitants.  It  is  the  sacred  city  of 
Mexico,  and  is  credited  with  being  the  most  devotedly 
Romish  of  all  Mexican  cities.  One  attempt  to  establish 
Protestant  services  there  several  years  ago  was  repulsed 
by  a mob;  but  the  accounts  of  the  affair  which  appeared 
in  the  States  were  more  highly  colored  than  the  facts 
really  warranted.  The  preacher  had  a quiet  and  orderly 
audience,  until  he  began  denouncing  Catholicism  in  need- 
lessly intemperate  terms,  when  he  was  assaulted  by  the 
enraged  people  and  forced  to  flee  over  the  roofs  of  the 
adjoining  houses  in  order  to  escape.  This  attempt  was 
not  followed  up. 

Ten  days  ago  one  of  our  preachers  held  a quiet  service, 
at  which  seventeen  persons  were  present,  and  there  was 
no  disturbance  whatever.  We  are  confident  that  whoever 
goes  there  in  the  spirit  of  the  gospel,  to  preach  the  truth 
will  not  only  be  protected,  but  will  find  hearers.  I think 
there  is  no  cause  for  anxiety  on  your  part  in  my  behalf. 
Our  church  owns  property  there,  a part  of  the  old  In- 
quisition building.  We  propose  to  fit  up  in  these  prem- 
ises, which  are  quite  extensive,  a chapel,  missionary  resi- 
dence, boys’  orphanage,  and  whatever  else  we  need.  I am 
to  have  a native  preacher  with  me,  and  am  to  have  su- 
perintendency of  the  orphanage  and  school. 

My  arrangements  for  living  in  Puebla  are  matters  of 
no  little  concern  to  me.  I shall  have  to  furnish  rooms 
for  myself  in  the  property  we  own,  and,  as  boarding  in 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


27 


private  families  is  unknown  in  Mexico,  I shall  be  com- 
pelled either  to  board  at  a hotel  at  exorbitant  prices,  or 
set  up  housekeeping — probably  the  latter.  Imagine  your 
boy  keeping  bachelor's  hall  in  the  Romish  Inquisition 
whose  walls  are  hallowed  by  the  sepulture  of  the  bones 
of  martyrs,  and  haunted  (?)  by  the  troubled  shades  of 
the  myrmidons  of  torture ! I shall  have  to  keep  a servant 
and  porter,  and  all  this  for  one!  Herein  appears  the 
truth  of  that  Scripture  which  saith,  “It  is  not  good  for 
man  to  be  alone.”  It  is  very  likely  that  no  more  un- 
married men  will  be  sent  to  this  Held.  The  state  of  so- 
ciety and  all  habits  of  living  are  such  as  to  make  it  much 
better  that  the  missionaries  should  be  married.  Do  not 
think  that  I am  very  uneasy  about  this  matter.  I doubt 
not  there  is  a way  out  of  the  difficulty,  which  Providence 
will  in  due  time  open  up. 

One  thing  we  shall  need  very  much  on  opening  our 
work  in  Puebla  is  a cabinet  organ,  to  aid  us  in  worship 
and  in  attracting  the  people  to  our  services.  Music  is 
a wonderful  attraction  to  this  people.  I have  seen  thirty 
or  forty  persons  come  into  our  little  vestry  at  an  ir- 
regular hour  on  Sunday,  because  they  caught  the  sound 
of  singing  from  the  street.  Several  organs  have  been 
provided  by  special  contribution  by  home  churches  for 
other  places,  and  the  thought  was  suggested  to  me  of 
venturing  to  mention  the  necessity  to  the  church  at  home, 
to  see  if  Puebla  could  not  be  supplied  in  the  same  way. 
It  would  be  a great  pleasure  to  me  to  have  it  right  from 
home,  and  to  feel  that  it  was  the  gift  of  my  own  old 
church.  Two  hundred  dollars  would  buy  it,  send  it  to 
us,  and  pay  the  duty  on  it.  One  thing  only  I must  say, 
that  this  request,  if  responded  to,  must  not  interfere  with 
the  regular  annual  missionary  collection.  We  might  get 
into  trouble  at  the  Mission  Rooms.  It  has  been  suggested 
that  if  you  send  an  organ,  you  send  also  some  one  to  play 


28 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


it.  A wise  suggestion,  but  I doubt  not  if  the  Lord  pro- 
vides us  the  instrument,  he  will  send  the  player  also  in 
due  time. 

You  will  gather  from  this  letter,  some  of  the  things 
which  are  filling  my  time  and  thoughts  in  my  new  home, 
but  in  the  midst  of  all  my  heart  turns  often  and  very 
fondly  to  the  home  and  dear  ones  I have  left  behind.  Did 
I not  believe  God  has  a work  for  me  to  do  here,  from 
which  I dare  not  turn  away,  nothing  could  persuade  me 
to  live  in  this  land,  so  far  away  from  all  that  I hold  dear 
in  this  life.  But,  knowing  I am  in  God’s  will  and  way, 
I am  content  and  happy,  and  expect  so  to  be  wherever 
my  work  shall  take  me.  . . . 

He  writes,  the  following  month,  of  the  illness  and  death 
of  Robert  Butler,  oue  of  his  traveling  companions,  and 
the  youngest  son  of  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Butler : 

The  disease  was  typhoid  fever,  which  is  at  this  season 
very  prevalent  in  Mexico  City.  He  had  for  fifteen  months 
been  absent  from  his  mother  and  family,  and  they  had 
all  been  anticipating  the  joy  of  an  unbroken  family  circle, 
when  death  came  in  less  than  four  weeks  after  his  arrival, 
and  took  him  from  them. 

He  was  a bright,  intelligent  young  man,  nineteen  years 
of  age,  full  of  life  and  spirits,  and  apparently  the  most 
healthy  of  the  family.  How  little  do  we  know  of  the  sad 
changes  a few  short  days  may  bring!  He  left  good  as- 
surance of  his  salvation,  a source  of  unspeakable  comfort 
to  his  parents.  He  was  buried  in  the  American  Cemetery, 
the  funeral  being  largely  attended  by  both  foreign  citizens 
and  Mexicans. 

Dr.  Cooper  was  to  have  preached  the  funeral  discourse 
on  the  next  Sunday,  before  the  English  congregation, 
but  on  Saturday  night,  toward  morning,  he  was  suddenly 
seized  with  a very  painful  illness,  rendering  a dangerous 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 

s 


29 


surgical  operation  necessary,  and  it  fell  to  me  to  take  his 
place.  It  seemed  a difficult  thing  to  do;  but  the  Lord 
helped  me. 

Dr.  Cooper  is  in  charge  of  our  Spanish  congregation 
here.  He  is  a man  sixty  years  of  age  or  more,  was  for- 
merly an  Episcopalian  clergyman,  but  now  belongs  to 
our  church.  He  is  of  very  great  importance  to  our  work 
here,  as  he  is  a man  of  large  experience,  excellent  judg- 
ment, fervent  spirit,  and,  withal,  speaks  Spanish  fluently. 
We  feared  he  was  to  be  taken  from  us,  but  God  spared 
him  and  he  is  already  almost  entirely  recovered. 

At  the  urgent  recommendation  of  the  physician,  we 
have  laid  aside  our  studies  with  our  Spanish  teacher  for 
the  present.  He  thought  it  hardly  safe  for  us  to  apply 
ourselves  so  closely  to  study  during  the  sickly  season 
until  we  had  become  somewhat  acclimated.  Both  Brother 
Butler  and  myself  have,  however,  been  quite  well,  and 
shall  resume  our  studies  soon.  We  have  no  time  to  lose 
in  acquiring  the  language. 

I have  been  taking  a good  deal  of  exercise,  riding  horse- 
back every  day  or  two.  This  is  a very  general  practice 
in  this  country.  Everybody  rides  and  all  are  good  horse- 
men. I hope  to  learn  the  art  of  riding  so  as  to  be  master 
of  the  horse,  as  I shall  have  to  journey  much  in  this  way 
in  the  prosecution  of  my  work. 

Since  I last  wrote,  our  new  rooms  in  the  cloisters  have 
been  fitted  up,  and  we  have  moved  from  the  damp,  un- 
comfortable, ill-ventilated  room  on  the  first  floor  to  more 
comfortable  quarters.  We  now  have  a study,  lighted  from 
the  ceiling,  and  a bedroom  opening  from  it.  The  windows 
of  our  rooms  look  out  into  the  church  which  was  once 
the  “patio,”  or  open  court  of  the  house. 

Last  Sunday  it  was  my  turn  to  preach  to  the  English 
people  in  Pachuca.  I left  Mexico  at  seven  o’clock  Satur- 
day morning  and  arrived  at  Pachuca  at  four  in  the  after- 


30 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


noon.  The  journey  is  a long  one  of  about  forty  miles  by 
rail  and  thirty  by  diligence,  long  not  by  reason  of  dis- 
tance, but  from  the  slowness  of  the  trains  and  the  rough- 
ness and  tediousness  of  the  diligence  ride. 

The  man  we  sent  to  Puebla  to  prospect  for  our  mission 
there  has  returned  and  made  his  report.  The  work  there 
will  be  beset  with  many  difficulties,  but  there  are  persons 
in  that  city  ready  to  receive  the  word  of  life.  The  people 
besought  him  not  to  come  to  their  houses,  as  that  would 
expose  them  to  the  hatred  of  the  papists,  but  they  showed 
a willingness  to  receive  tracts  and  portions  of  Scripture, 
and  to  come  to  his  house  secretly  to  hear  the  truth.  The 
light  cannot  long  be  thus  hidden.  It  must  break  forth 
and  shine  at  any  cost  of  danger  and  persecution.  He 
found  one  man  who  was  one  of  the  mob  that  assaulted  a 
Protestant  congregation  with  stones,  four  years  ago,  and 
he  expressed  regret  at  having  participated  in  the  affair, 
and  seemed  almost  ready  to  join  himself  to  the  people  he 
once  so  hated. 

I think  very  often  of  my  home  and  friends,  and  you  all 
seem  to  me  all  the  dearer,  now  that  such  a distance 
separates  us.  . . . 


Mexico  City,  July  11,  1874. 

My  dear  Mother  : 

I suppose  you  are  now  in  the  midst  of  summer  heat, 
for  it  is  the  middle  of  July.  The  climate  of  Mexico  is 
such  that,  although  within  the  the  tropics,  I can  hardly 
realize  that  it  is  midsummer.  The  direct  rays  of  the 
sun  are  very  severe,  but  on  the  shady  side  of  the  street 
or  in  the  house,  the  temperature  is  never  so  high  as  to 
cause  discomfort  or  lassitude.  The  nights  are  invariably 
cool,  so  that  an  overcoat  is  almost  indispensable  on  going 
out,  and  we  pass  no  sleepless  nights  here  on  account  of  the 
heat.  Then,  too,  we  have  entered  upon  the  rainy  season, 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


31 


but  you  must  not  infer  that  we  are  living  in  the  midst  of 
a continual  drench  or  drizzle  from  morning  till  night,  and 
from  night  till  morning.  On  the  contrary  the  mornings 
are  usually  bright  and  sunny.  I never  saw  them  more 
beautiful.  The  air  is  cool  and  fresh,  vegetation,  freshly 
washed,  shows  to  its  best  advantage,  and  the  sidewalks 
are  usually  dry.  But  in  the  midst  of  this  brightness  and 
beauty,  the  mists  are  forming  into  clouds  and  gathering 
about  the  hills  on  the  outskirts  of  the  valley,  and  about 
four  o’clock  in  the  afternoon  they  sally  forth  over  the 
plains,  it  is  overcast,  and  rains.  The  evenings  are  often 
clear  and  star-lit,  only  the  last  remnants  of  the  cloud 
canopy  remaining  in  view.  The  streets  and  walks,  heated 
by  the  morning  sun,  cause  the  water  to  evaporate  very 
rapidly,  and  are  quickly  dry.  This  order  of  things  is  by 
no  means  invariable,  but  by  far  the  most  common. 

Since  I last  wrote  the  glorious  Fourth  has  come  and 
gone ! It  was  observed  by  the  Americans  in  the  valley  of 
Mexico,  by  a grand  banquet  at  the  Tivoli  del  Ferrocarril. 
A large  number  of  guests  were  present,  including  Presi- 
dent Lerdo,  his  cabinet,  the  foreign  ministers  resident, 
and  other  public  men.  There  was  the  reading  of  the 
Declaration  of  Independence,  toasts  and  speeches,  singing 
and  band  music.  Wine  flowed  in  abundance,  but  there 
was  little  apparent  intoxication.  The  affair  lasted  about 
five  hours. 

The  person  of  most  interest  to  me  was  the  President. 
He  is  a man  of  low  stature,  quiet  face  and  demeanor,  and 
temperate  habits;  about  forty  or  forty-five  years  of  age, 
and  unmarried.  He  seems  to  be  a man  of  ability,  and 
maintains  a good  government  over  this  people,  so  prone 
to  revolutions.  The  American  Minister  here  is  Colonel 
Foster,  of  Indiana.  He  is  a cultured  gentleman  and  an 
accomplished  diplomat,  in  every  way  an  honor  to  our 
country.  He  and  his  family  are  members  of  the  Presby- 


32 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


terian  Church,  and  attend  Sunday  service  in  English 
very  constantly. 

I met  this  week  a man  from  Puebla,  an  American 
citizen,  but  by  birth  a German  Jew.  He  is  very  wealthy 
and  is  interested  in  our  going  to  Puebla,  not  from  re- 
ligious but  probably  for  pecuniary  reasons.  He  promises 
all  assistance  and  assures  me  that  there  will  be  perfect 
safety  there,  if  a judicious  course  is  pursued. 

Our  work  here  goes  forward  with  many  discourage- 
ments, some  opposition  and  withal  some  signs  of  hope. 
To  give  you  an  idea  of  the  estimation  in  which  we  are 
held  by  many  of  the  people,  I will  write  to  you  what 
propriety  would  otherwise  forbid.  It  has  twice  occurred, 
during  the  present  week,  that  when  we  have  found  rooms 
in  portions  of  the  city  where  we  wish  to  establish  service, 
and  have  attempted  to  secure  them,  we  have  been 
met  with  two  conditions,  imposed  by  the  parties  owning 
the  property.  The  restrictions  are  these : first,  that  the 
room  shall  not  be  used  for  a house  of  prostitution;  and 
second,  that  it  shall  not  be  used  as  a Protestant  place 
of  worship.  You  see  in  what  company  they  put  Protes- 
tants! No  doubt  the  priests  are  at  the  bottom  of  this. 
They  seem  to  be  responsible  for  most  of  the  bigotry. 

We  have  very  promising  congregations  in  four  sections 
of  the  city.  The  greatest  obstacle  we  find  is  to  get  fit 
men  to  take  charge  of  them.  Those  whom  the  mission  is 
compelled  to  employ,  do  not  understand  spiritual  re- 
ligion at  all,  and  the  people,  hungering  for  the  bread  of 
life,  are  not  fed.  We  are  hoping  and  praying  and  labor- 
ing that  our  preachers  may  be  converted  and  endowed 
with  the  Holy  Ghost. 

This  work  must  go  forward.  I am  longing  more  and 
more  for  ability  to  speak  to  this  people  in  their  own 
language.  They  manifest  such  a longing  for  something 
better.  . . . 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


33 


(To  his  mother) 

September  12,  1874. 

Since  my  last  letter  I have  made  another  trip  to 
Pachuca,  to  preach  to  the  English  congregation  there  and 
at  Real  del  Monte,  two  leagues  further  on.  I had  a 
pleasant  though  somewhat  wearisome  journey,  preach- 
ing twice,  and  riding  twelve  miles  on  horseback  on  Sun- 
day. Desiring  to  take  the  diligence  Monday  morning  at 
six  o’clock,  I told  the  hotel  keeper  to  have  me  called  at 
five.  He  failed  to  do  this,  and  when  I waked  and  looked 
at  my  watch,  it  only  lacked  ten  minutes  of  six ! You  may 
imagine  how  I bounded  out  of  bed,  hurried  on  my  clothes, 
and  rushed  through  the  streets,  half  dressed,  to  catch  the 
stage!  I succeeded,  however,  though  I did  not  complete 
my  toilet  till  we  got  to  the  railroad  station,  thirty  miles 
away. 

The  last  three  weeks  I have  been  redoubling  my  dili- 
gence in  the  study  of  Spanish,  and  begin  to  feel  as  though 
I had  made  a commencement  in  the  language.  You  can 
hardly  conceive  of  the  difficulty  of  learning  a foreign 
tongue,  so  as  to  speak  it.  I began  last  week  to  take  part 
in  some  of  the  public  Spanish  services*  in  reading  the 
Scriptures  and  in  prayer.  I have  not  yet  attempted  to 
preach,  but  Dr.  Cooper  seems  to  think  that,  by  using- 
written  sermons  at  first,  I can  begin  in  a few  weeks. 
Thus  I will  be  able  to  conduct  service  immediately,  when 
I go  to  Puebla. 

To-morrow,  which  will  soon  be  to-day,  for  it  is  nearly 
midnight,  is  my  birthday,  and  I am  twenty-three — not 
very  old  yet.  I am  happy,  and  expect  to  be,  in  my  work, 
and  can  leave  the  future  of  my  life  in  God’s  hands.  I do 
not  know  what  is  in  store  for  me,  but  I know  that  what- 
ever it  is,  it  is  best. 

I am  sorry  to  say  that  I have  not  received  any  of  the 
magazines  you  sent,  nor  a single  paper  since  the  six  Ad- 


34 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


vocates  that  came  at  once  nine  weeks  ago.  Are  you  sure 
they  were  legibly  directed,  and  that  you  paid  the  right 
postage  on  them?  The  paper  you  now  write  on  answers 
the  purpose  very  well,  and  though  it  does  not  seem  to 
save  you  anything,  it  saves  me  fifteen  cents  on  every 
letter,  so  instead  of  paying  fifty  cents  on  such  a one  as 
I received  to-day,  when  written  on  heavy  paper,  I now 
pay  only  thirty-five,  and  get  just  as  much.  So,  be  not 
weary  in  well  doing,  I yet  carry  the  heavier  end  of  the 
stick.  . . . 

Before  the  end  of  this  month  he  preached  his  first 
sermon  in  Spanish,  reading  from  manuscript  a short  dis- 
course of  ten  pages  which,  he  writes,  cost  him  many  hours 
of  labor.  He  had  already  found  that  there  is  no  royal 
road  to  the  knowledge  of  Spanish  or  any  other  language, 
but  the  old  one  of  hard,  patient  toil.  In  a letter,  dated 
October  5,  he  writes : 

Surely  there  were  never  higher  motives  to  inspire  one 
in  any  painful  work  than  those  I see  before  me  all  the 
time,  in  the  hope  of  being  able  to  preach  the  blessed  gospel 
to  this  people. 

I am  very  glad  to  be  able  to  do  even  the  little  1 now 
can,  poor  as  it  is,  for  it  seems  at  least  a beginning. 

Last  Sunday  1 spent  again  in  Paehuea  and  Real  del 
Monte,  preaching  in  the  morning,  but  taking  such  a cold 
that  my  voice  left  me  in  the  afternoon,  and  one  of  the 
local  preachers  had  to  substitute  for  me.  I had  to  ride 
six  miles  and  back  in  the  midst  of  a heavy  rain  which 
aggravated  my  cold,  and  I am  not  yet  free  from  it.  It 
is  more  annoying  though  than  painful. 

I still  contemplate  going  to  Puebla  the  first  of  Novem- 
ber, and  Dr.  Butler  and  I are  now  looking  about  to  secure 
proper  persons  for  the  work  there;  a colporteur,  teacher, 
and  others  to  take  care  of  the  boys  in  the  orphanage.  I 
look  forward  to  the  near  responsibilities  of  the  work  with 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


35 


anxiety,  and  earnest  prayers  for  wisdom  and  guidance 
from  above. 

So  far  as  physical  violence  is  concerned,  I do  not  think 
we  need  to  anticipate  it  at  all.  With  prudence  and  dis- 
cretion, and  above  all  with  God's  blessing  and  protection, 
I feel  sure  the  gospel  will  find  entrance  there  without 
that  kind  of  opposition.  With  or  without  it,  however, 
1 am  certain  that  Protestantism  will  ultimately  take  deep 
root  in  that  city.  . . . 


Mexico  City,  October  24,  1874. 

My  dear  Mother: 

The  rainy  season  has  really  gone  at  last,  and  we  are 
having  charming  weather.  The  days  are  cool,  bright,  and 
sunshiny,  and  the  nights  equally  clear,  with  an  atmos- 
phere which  is  very  invigorating.  It  is  now  full  moon, 
and  there  is  a clearness  of  air  and  sky  that  makes  the 
nights  surpassingly  brilliant.  Last  night  there  was  a 
wonderful  view  of  the  two  snow-clad  volcanoes,  almost 
dazzling  white  in  the  moonlight. 

We  had  an  illustration  this  week  here  in  Mexico  of 
how  the  Lord  can  turn  opposition  into  an  occasion  for 
victory.  Preparations  had  been  making  to  open  a chapel 
in  a part  of  the  city  never  before  invaded  by  Protestant 
worship.  A priest,  speaking  of  this,  was  overheard  by 
one  of  our  helpers  to  say  that  on  the  occasion  of  our 
largest  congregation,  he  would  do  something  to  make 
his  name  famous  in  Mexico. 

The  butchers  also,  in  which  the  neighborhood  abounded, 
averred  that  we  should  have  to  walk  over  their  dead  bodies 
to  hold  our  first  service.  The  authorities  were  informed 
of  these  threats  and  promised  protection.  Wednesday 
night  was  appointed  for  the  opening,  Dr.  Cooper  to 
preach.  Though  he  was  scarcely  able  to  be  out  of  bed,  he 
went,  I accompanying  him. 


36 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


The  congregation  was  very  large,  so  that  not  nearly  all 
could  get  into  the  room.  A priest  of  a neighboring  Ro- 
mish church  who  stepped  in  to  see,  became  wedged  in  the 
crowd,  could  not  get  out  and  was  compelled,  for  once, 
to  hear  a good  earnest  gospel  sermon.  There  was  not  the 
slightest  disturbance. 

Next  day,  messengers  sent  to  the  butchers  by  one  in- 
terested in  the  success  of  our  work,  found  them  com- 
pletely changed.  They  say  that  kind  of  worship  is  all 
right,  and  seem  now  to  be  friendly.  Last  night  we  were 
there  again.  The  congregation  Avas  large,  orderly,  and 
respectful.  The  door  is  open  and  no  man  can  shut  it. 
The  gospel  must  triumph,  and  that  gloriously! 

As  I close  this  letter  at  midnight,  the  moon  is  in  total 
eclipse.  I am  in  a sort  of  total  eclipse  myself,  for  the 
mail  has  come  and  no  letter  from  home.  We  are  greatly 
afflicted  in  learning  of  the  death  of  Dr.  Eddy.  He  was  a 
good  man  and  an  earnest  worker.  He  was  in  special 
charge  of  the  interests  of  this  mission.  Personally  I feel 
as  though  I had  lost  a friend.  May  God  sanctify  this 
bereavement  to  the  good  of  the  church  and  raise  up  an- 
other to  take  up  his  work  where  he  laid  it  down ! Pray 
for  us  in  Mexico.  . . . 


Mexico  City,  December  8,  1874. 

My  dear  Mother: 

I received  this  evening  a letter  from  Dr.  Marlay,  saying 
there  would  be  some  delay  in  getting  the  organ,  but  ex- 
pressing the  hope  that  he  will  be  able  to  send  it.  I shall 
be  very  glad  and  very  thankful  to  have  it,  but  my  tenure 
of  the  work  in  Puebla  will  be  no  more  permanent  than 
that  of  any  other  Methodist  preacher  and  I shall  be 
liable,  at  any  time,  to  be  sent  away  from  there  to  open 
work  in  some  new  place.  So,  if  my  friends  give  the  organ 
they  must  give  it  to  the  Lord  and  his  work,  and  not  to  me. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


37 


I shall  rejoice  in  it  just  as  much  even  though  I should 
enjoy  it  myself  only  a short  time. 

I am  sending  a small  package  of  some  things  which  I 
thought  might  interest  you,  by  the  hands  of  a party  going 
to  New  York  by  the  next  steamer.  Among  them  is  a 
photograph  of  Benito  Juarez,  who  was  the  last  president 
of  the  republic  and  whose  public  services  covered  the 
period  when  European  intervention  sought  to  set  up  a 
monarchy  on  the  free  soil  of  the  Western  continent. 

There  are  also  some  ribbons,  bought  at  the  shrine  of 
Our  Lady  of  Guadalupe.  The  one  with  the  black  line 
printed  in  the  middle  has  been  touched  to  the  face  of  the 
image  of  the  Virgin  and  so  is  said  and  believed  to  be  a 
charm  efficacious  in  the  healing  of  all  diseases.  You  may 
try  its  powers  as  necessity  may  arise  and  your  faith  is 
strong!  I send  also  a small  photograph  of  the  image  of 
this  Virgin.  The  superstition  is  one  that  holds  a mighty 
sway  over  this  nation.  This  is  the  history  of  it.  ^ 

It  was  soon  after  the  Conquest  by  Cortez,  and  though 
the  Cross  and  the  Virgin  had  supplanted  the  horrid 
Aztec  deities  in  the  temples  of  the  land,  the  people  still 
clung  to  the  old  faith  of  their  fathers.  One  morning  in 
1531,  an  Indian  was  wending  his  way  to  Mexico  when, 
as  he  was  passing  over  a lonely  mountain  standing  in  the 
plain  three  miles  from  the  city,  he  saw  the  figure  of  a 
woman  descending  from  the  clouds.  It  proved  to  be  the 
mother  of  Christ,  who  told  the  astonished  man  that  she 
had  determined  to  become  the  patron  saint  of  the  In- 
dians, and  take  them  under  her  special  protection. 

He  was  to  go  to  the  city  and  tell  the  archbishop  a 
church  must  be  built  to  her  at  the  foot  of  this  mountain. 
The  bishop  was  unbelieving,  and  on  reporting  his  rebuff 
to  the  Virgin  next  morning,  she  told  the  Indian  to  meet 
her  there  at  the  same  hour  on  the  following  day.  On 
going  to  the  appointed  place,  he  was  told  to  go  to  the 


38 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


top  of  the  mountain  and  fill  his  blanket  with  roses, 
which  he  would  find  there.  Obediently  he  went,  and  fak- 
ing his  burden  of  flowers  miraculously  placed  there,  for 
none  had  ever  grown  there  before,  he  went  again  to  the 
bishop  when,  behold ! on  opening  his  blanket,  there  was 
found  painted  upon  it  a picture  of  the  Virgin  in  gorgeous 
apparel.  Unbelief  vanished,  the  churches  were  built,  one 
at  the  foot,  the  other  on  the  top  of  the  hill ; the  Indians 
were  converted  in  multitudes,  and  riches  uncounted 
flowed  into  the  shrine  of  “Our  Lady.”  The  original  mi- 
raculous portrait  is  still  to  be  seen  in  a rich  frame  of  gold, 
inlaid  with  diamonds  and  pearls.  The  motto  on  the  pic- 
ture is,  “God  has  not  dealt  so  with  any  nation.”  This 
shrine  is  exceedingly  popular  among  the  Mexicans. 

Another  famous  shrine,  “Our  Lady  of  Remedies,”  the 
shrine  of  the  Spanish  population,  as  that  of  Guadalupe 
is  of  the  Indians,  has  this  history : When  driven  from  the 
City  of  Mexico,  with  terrible  slaughter,  on  the  night  of 
the  “Noehe  triste,”  Cortez  and  his  tired  and  wounded 
followers  rested  at  a high  hill,  twelve  miles  distant. 
During  their  stay  Cortez  found,  in  a soldier’s  knapsack, 
a small  wooden  doll  about  eight  inches  high,  which  the 
man  had  brought  from  Spain.  The  commander  deter- 
mined to  make  use  of  this  to  inspire  his  broken  spirited 
followers.  He  displayed  it  to  them,  saying  it  was  an 
image  of  the  Virgin  which  she  had  sent  him  from  heaven, 
promising  to  cure  their  wounds,  secure  their  retreat,  and 
the  final  conquest  of  Mexico.  After  the  conquest,  he  built 
on  this  hill  a church  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary  of 
Remedies,  and  here  to  this  day  is  the  wooden  doll  dressed 
in  the  richest  jewels,  and  receiving  the  worship  of  the 
people ! 

Such  was  the  age  of  the  conquest,  and  such  are  the 
superstitions  from  which  the  most  intelligent  have  long 
since  revolted,  and  which  we  are  here  to  supplant  by 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


39 


the  pure  and  simple  faith  of  the  Christ  of  Bethlehem  and 
Calvary.  . . . 

A few  weeks  later  occurred  an  incident  which  showed 
what  a vast  field  is  opening  up  to  the  church : There  came 
to  the  house  two  men  from  Celaya,  a place  more  than 
two  hundred  miles  northward.  They  came  to  ask  that  a 
preacher  of  the  gospel  might  be  sent  to  them.  They  were 
Indians  of  the  tribe  of  Otomies  who,  while  speaking  Span- 
ish, still  preserve  also  the  language  which  their  ancestors 
spoke  at  the  time  of  the  Spanish  invasion. 

Their  clothing  consisted  of  a pair  of  trousers,  made 
of  thin  white  cotton  sheeting,  and  a sort  of  narrow  blan- 
ket which  they  throw  about  their  naked  shoulders  and 
bodies.  Their  shoes  are  merely  a piece  of  leather  fastened 
to  the  sole  of  the  foot  by  straps  passing  over  the  instep 
and  between  the  toes.  The  head  surmounted  by  a coarse 
hat  of  straw  with  a brim  two  feet  or  more  in  diameter, 
and  their  costume  is  complete,  though  it  must  be  con- 
fessed, it  is  rather  scanty. 

They  said  there  were  many  of  their  countrymen  scat- 
tered in  towns  and  villages  northward,  who  are  weary 
and  distrustful  of  their  Romish  priests  who  only  seek  to 
make  gain  out  of  the  poverty  of  the  people.  These  men 
asked  for  books  and  tracts  to  teach  them  our  doctrine, 
and  a man  to  come  and  proclaim  to  them  the  new  way  of 
which  they  had  now  first  heard.  They  belong  to  a pe- 
culiar and  very  large  class  of  the  population  of  Mexico. 
The  Spanish  and  mixed  population,  living  chiefly  in  the 
towns,  is  very  different  from  the  pure  Indian  population. 
The  former  are  characterized  by  falsity,  treachery,  and 
fanaticism  and  many  other  vices.  The  latter  are  said  to 
be  very  faithful  and  trustworthy,  though  poor  and  igno- 
rant. 

Those  who  came  asking  for  a preacher,  were  represen- 


40 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


tatives  of  a very  large  proportion  of  the  population  which 
is  not  reached  by  our  work  in  the  cities.  Possibly,  too, 
it  is  the  very  class  which  would  yield  the  richest  and 
most  abundant  fruit  to  gospel  toil.  They  are  stretching 
out  their  hands  for  the  gospel  of  Christ.  Who  will  carry 
it  to  them? 


CHAPTER  II 


Puebla,  January  16,  1875. 

My  dear  Mother  : 

At  last  I write  you  from  Puebla,  which  seems  likely  to 
be  my  home  for  a long  time  to  come.  I left  Mexico  City 
last  Wednesday  morning,  arriving  here  the  afternoon  of 
the  same  day.  I was  accompanied  by  and  am  to  have 
as  my  helper  for  some  months  an  English  Wesleyan  local 
preacher,  whose  name  is  Christopher  Ludlow.  He  has 
for  some  time  been  employed  as  a local  preacher  in  Eng- 
lish, at  Real  del  Monte  and  Pachuca,  where  he  was  en- 
gaged in  connection  with  some  mining  works. 

His  engagement  there  having  expired,  he  has  come  into 
our  mission,  and  expects  to  learn  the  language  and  con- 
tinue in  the  work  of  evangelization.  He  is  a practical 
mechanic  of  a good  deal  of  experience,  and  has  been  sent 
here  by  Dr.  Butler  to  aid  me  in  the  repairing  of  our 
church  property  here  in  Puebla.  On  arriving,  we  found 
that  the  rooms  we  had  written  to  secure  had  been  rented. 

We  spent  the  night  in  the  hotel  and  next  day  after  long 
search  succeeded  in  securing  three  rooms  which  we  took 
for  ourselves,  hoping  soon  to  find  a house  in  which  to 
place  our  orphan  boys  and  begin  our  school.  The  man 
who  had  formerly  occupied  these  rooms  was  most  kind, 
though  he  knew  we  were  Protestants,  and  had  come  as 
missionaries.  He  even  left  us  a part  of  his  own  furniture 
and  showed  us  every  courtesy,  and  within  a few  days  we 
found  several  friends  who  did  much  to  help  us  in  getting 
settled. 


41 


42 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


One  of  these  is  an  American  woman,  Pennsylvania 
Dutch,  who  has  lived  many  years  in  this  country.  Her 
children  have  grown  up  Romanists.  The  husband  of  one 
of  them,  although  a Catholic,  has  taken  great  interest  in 
us,  spending  many  hours  going  about  with  me  hunting 
houses,  and  helping  by  his  advice  and  sympathy.  I have 
found  a kind  welcome  too  among  foreigners,  most  of 
whom  are  Germans.  One  of  them  told  me  there  are  a 
number  of  children  waiting  to  be  baptized  by  a Protestant 
minister. 

I have  already  made  the  acquaintance  of  several  of  the 
local  and  state  officials,  and  am  to  be  presented  to  the 
governor  and  president  of  the  common  council  to-morrow. 
I am  assured  that  we  shall  have  all  needful  protection  on 
the  part  of  the  government. 

I have  detailed  all  these  things  in  order  to  show  you 
that  God  is  already  giving  us  an  entering  in  among  the 
people  to  whom  we  are  sent.  I know  you  have  been 
anxious,  and  1 wish  to  put  your  fears  at  rest.  My  great 
anxiety  is  that  God  may  make  my  labors  a blessing  to 
the  souls  of  these  people.  There  is  very  great  need  of 
circumspection  and  wisdom,  all  the  more  as  I am  a for- 
eigner. I trust,  however,  that  a universal  gospel  of  per- 
sonal salvation,  preached  and  lived,  will  speedily  break 
down  prejudice  and  bring  the  people  to  Jesus. 

Next  week  we  begin  work  on  our  repairs  and  shall 
carry  them  forward  as  fast  as  possible  and  go  as  far  as 
our  means  will  allow.  We  shall  be  a good  deal  restricted 
as  to  the  latter.  How  I wish  that  some  friend  or  friends 
would  make  up  a thousand  dollars  and  send  it  directly 
to  us  as  an  extraordinary  gift  to  God's  cause  in  Puebla ! 
It  would  prove  a most  profitable  investment. 

I am  boarding  at  a restaurant,  in  default  of  a better 
place.  It  is  not  very  pleasant  and  there  is  not  the  slight- 
est reminder  of  home  life  about  me,  but  I do  not  feel  like 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


43 


complaining.  I would  gladly  bear  much  more  of  priva- 
tion could  I only  see  God’s  work  prospering  in  my 
hands.  . . . 


Puebla,  February  7,  1875. 

My  dear  Mother: 

Since  my  last  letter  we  have  been  going  forward  rapidly 
with  our  work,  and  have  accomplished  a good  deal.  Last 
week  we  had  over  thirty  men  employed.  In  other  re- 
spects too  my  work  is  encouraging.  I have  become  ac- 
quainted with  a number  of  foreigners  here  who  are 
Protestants  and  seem  glad  we  have  come.  Many  of  them 
will  send  their  children  to  our  school,  and  some  will 
identify  themselves  with  our  services.  They  are  chiefly 
Germans. 

My  first  attempt  to  call  any  of  the  native  Protestants 
together  was  this  morning.  I have  a colporteur  employed 
to  help  me  who  is  a native  of  this  place  and  has  many 
acquaintances  here.  Through  him  I extended  the  invita- 
tion to  such  as  he  could  find  to  come  to  my  own  room. 
In  response  three  besides  ourselves  came,  so  we  had  a 
little  meeting  of  six.  We  talked  over  the  cause  of  God 
together,  and  read  and  prayed. 

Those  who  came  are  men  who  have  suffered  for  con- 
science’ sake,  wounds  and  hunger  and  nakedness.  They 
told  me  they  knew  of  others  of  like  convictions  to  the 
number  of  twenty  or  more.  So  you  see  there  are,  even  in 
Puebla,  some  who  do  not  bow  the  knee  to  Baal. 

We  have  to  encounter  many  difficulties  in  this  work. 
The  people  do  not  find  it  easy  to  believe  that  we  can  have 
come  hither  without  some  selfish  end  in  view.  Some 
charge  us  with  having  political  objects  as  our  ultimate 
aim,  and  in  this  way  Mexican  jealousy  of  the  rising  power 
of  the  United  States  sometimes  operates  against  us. 
Others  have  started  a report  that  we  are  emissaries  of 


44 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


the  Masons  come  to  establish  that  order,  against  which 
there  is  widespread  dislike. 

But  notwithstanding  these  prejudices  and  slanders 
God  is  giving  and  will  give  us  a wide  door  of  entrance, 
and  I begin  to  hope  the  difficulties  will  be  in  some  re- 
spects less  than  we  have  anticipated. 

We  are  compelled  to  begin  very  quietly,  for  to  be  open 
Protestants  would  take  the  bread  out  of  their  mouths, 
and  many  are  thoroughly  intimidated  by  one  or  two 
events  of  the  past  history  of  Protestantism  in  this  place. 
I think  however  that  we  have  nothing  to  fear  from 
violence. 

The  American  Minister  in  Mexico  City,  Mr.  Foster, 
has  lately  taken  very  strong  measures  with  the  Mexican 
government,  holding  it  to  treaty  pledges  for  the  protec- 
tion of  American  citizens.  This  has  been  done  in  view 
of  the  trouble  at  Acapulco,  where  there  was  a recent  dis- 
turbance in  which  five  were  killed  and  eleven  wounded  in 
an  attack  made  on  a Protestant  place  of  worship.  Aca- 
pulco is  a long  way  from  Puebla  and  in  a part  of  the 
country  where  the  government  acknowledges  it  has  less 
control  over  the  people. 

Dr.  Butler  and  I went  the  other  day  to  call  on  the 
governor  of  the  State  and  the  mayor  of  the  city,  to  ad- 
vise them  of  our  presence.  They  gave  us  every  promise 
of  protection,  but  these  promises  are  of  little  value,  as 
the  government  of  this  State  is  notoriously  bad  and  must 
soon  fall,  whether  peaceably  or  by  violence  cannot  yet 
be  said.  In  any  case  when  the  change  comes,  it  will  un- 
doubtedly be  favorable  to  us  and  our  work.  After  all,  our 
main  confidence  we  must  repose  in  God  and  his  provi- 
dence. We  need  wisdom  and  prudence,  as  well  as  zeal 
and  courage,  in  conducting  this  work. 

Dr.  Cooper  has  had  another  attack  of  illness  and  leaves 
on  Tuesday  for  the  States  on  account  of  his  health.  This 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


45 


leaves  our  work  without  any  American  missionary  who 
attempts  to  preach  in  Spanish.  I of  course  do  it  but 
poorly,  being  as  yet  a tyro  in  the  language. 

I go  on  Thursday  to  Mexico  City  to  spend  Sunday  and 
will  return  to  Puebla  on  Tuesday  with  the  orphan  boys. 
I have  secured  additional  rooms  for  their  temporary  ac- 
commodation on  the  same  floor  of  the  building  where  Mr. 
Ludlow  and  I have  our  quarters. 

(To  his  Mother) 

Puebla,  March  2,  1875. 

Nearly  two  weeks  ago  I returned  here  from  Mexico 
City,  bringing  with  me  the  boys’  orphanage.  We  made 
quite  a large  company  on  the  train.  There  were  fourteen 
boys  of  all  ages,  from  four  years  to  thirteen.  Besides 
these  the  man  who  has  supervision  under  my  direction 
of  the  boys,  with  his  wife  and  little  girl.  Then  the  school 
teacher,  with  his  wife  and  three  children.  Thus  there 
were  in  all,  counting  myself,  the  patriarch  of  all,  twenty- 
three  souls. 

We  landed  from  our  day’s  journey  at  three  o’clock  in 
the  afternoon,  and  found  our  new  house  all  in  readiness 
for  us,  chiefly  through  the  efforts  of  our  kind  friend  Mrs. 
Johnson. 

Of  course  I am  very  busy  with  all  this  charge  on  my 
hands.  There  are  fourteen  hungry  little  mouths  to  be 
fed,  and  I must  say  what  is  to  be  given  them  and  provide 
the  means  to  buy  it.  There  are  fourteen  little  bodies  to 
be  kept  comfortable,  and  I must  keep  an  oversight  of 
their  clothing,  washing,  etc.  I must  also  keep  the  ac- 
counts of  the  house,  giving  out  needed  money  and  calling 
the  servants  to  account  for  it,  not  only  for  the  orphanage, 
but  also  for  our  own  housekeeping,  as  Brother  Ludlow 
and  I have  a servant  and  eat  at  our  own  table.  Then, 
too,  I have  to  keep  up  supplies  and  money  for  our  work 


46 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


of  repairs,  aud  keep  these  accounts  straight.  Even  this 
is  not  all,  but  I will  not  say  more  lest  you  think  we  ex- 
aggerate. 

I feel  very  strangely  sometimes  at  being  placed  over 
such  a family  as  I have  in  this  house.  It  is  a fearful  re- 
sponsibility, and  its  cares  have  harassed  and  wearied  me 
very  greatly.  The  children  have  never,  up  to  this  time, 
been  under  any  proper  discipline,  and  so  are  somewhat 
unruly.  I think  1 begin  already  to  see  some  improve- 
ment in  this  respect.  I hope  they  may  grow  up  good  and 
useful  men.  It  is  only  by  training  them  up  from  youth 
in  this  way  that  we  can  hope  to  secure  the  most  useful 
preachers  and  teachers  for  this  land.  I must  try  to  be  to 
them,  while  under  my  care,  both  father  and  mother, 
for  some  of  them  will  know  in  after  years  no  other. 

I wonder  if  the  good  folks  in  Xenia  would  not  be  glad 
to  make  up  a box  of  clothing  for  these  children.  It  would 
cost  very  little  comparatively  to  buy  material  and  make 
up  a little  suit  for  each  of  these  boys.  Pants  of  some 
light  cheap  cloth,  made  to  button  on  calico  waists,  with 
little  round-front  linen  jackets  for  the  small  boys,  and 
plain  cloth  ones  for  the  larger  boys,  of  the  same  material 
as  the  pants.  Three  of  the  small  ones  are  very  fat,  so 
that  the  waistbands  must  be  made  large  or  they  won’t 
meet  around  them. 

The  work  on  our  new  premises  is  being  pushed  forward 
very  rapidly  and  we  hope  to  move  into  them,  although  in 
a very  unfinished  state,  within  five  or  six  weeks.  This 
change  is  very  much  to  be  desired  because  we  have  been 
somewhat  annoyed  in  our  present  quarters.  The  depart- 
ment of  the  house  over  our  heads  was  occupied  by  a 
Romanist  school.  The  family  and  school  have  moved  out, 
bag  and  baggage,  on  our  account.  Other  occupants  of 
the  house  have  threatened  to  do  likewise,  and  the  owner 
is  greatly  disturbed  and  wants  us  to  get  out. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


47 


Opening  for  a foundation  the  other  day,  we  suddenly 
came  upon  immense  numbers  of  human  bones.  They  had 
been  interred  under  the  brick  and  mortar  floor  of  the  house 
we  are  fitting  up,  and  been  forgotten  for  years.  Of  course 
it  is  a perfect  bed  of  corruption  and  would  be  a fruitful 
source  of  ill  health.  So  we  have  been  compelled  to  take 
up  the  bones  of  perhaps  more  than  a hundred  persons 
and  secure  permission  to  have  them  reinterred  in  a 
cemetery. 

We  are  now  holding  meetings  regularly  every  Sunday 
morning  and  afternoon,  and  every  Thursday  night.  The 
attendance,  apart  from  the  members  and  helpers  of  the 
mission,  is  very  small.  Many  more  are  there  who  call 
themselves  Protestants,  but  they  are  either  afraid  to 
come,  as  some  of  them  acknowledge,  or  they  are  full  of 
suspicion  and  mistrust  of  us. 

We  find  many  difficulties  and  discouragements  that 
almost  make  me  heartsick,  but  I have  faith  in  God  that 
he  will  remove  in  his  own  time  the  stumblingblocks  and 
give  free  course  to  the  triumphs  of  his  holy  Word.  . . . 

Puebla,  May  3,  1875. 

My  bear  Mother  : 

The  closing  out  of  the  first  year  of  my  life  in  Mexico 
finds  me  surrounded  by  many  more  blessings  than  I de- 
serve. Not  least  among  them  do  I reckon  that  of  God’s 
goodness  and  preserving  care  to  my  father  and  mother 
and  all  those  I love  so  much  at  home.  I thought  of  you, 
mother,  on  your  birthday,  but  had  forgotten  that  it  was 
your  fiftieth  anniversary.  I pray  God  to  spare  you  many, 
many  more  years  to  your  children ! 

Since  I last  wrote  you,  there  has  been  quite  an  acces- 
sion to  our  household.  The  wife  and  mother-in-law  and 
little  child  of  Brother  Ludlow,  my  companion  and  helper, 
have  arrived  from  England.  Mrs.  Ludlow  is  a nice  little 


48 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


woman,  who  seems  to  take  very  kindly  to  her  new  sur- 
roundings. With  her  mother  the  ease  is  different;  she 
misses  her  home  and  its  privileges  keenly,  and  already 
talks  of  returning.  So  long  as  Mr.  Ludlow  and  his  family 
are  here,  they  will  keep  house  and  I shall  board  with 
them. 

The  bulk  of  the  work  on  our  property  here  is  now  ap- 
proaching its  end.  Mr.  Ludlow  has  been  of  good  service 
to  me,  being  by  trade  a mechanic  and  engineer.  Still, 
as  he  speaks  very  little  Spanish,  much  of  the  supervision 
of  the  work  and  all  the  purchasing  of  material  has  come 
upon  me.  We  have  spent  now  a little  over  two  thousand 
dollars.  We  are  so  limited  in  means  that  it  is  impossible 
for  us  to  finish  up  the  work  as  we  ought  for  real  comfort 
and  convenience,  but  it  will  answer  for  the  present.  In 
years  to  come  we  shall  be  obliged  to  have  some  other 
location,  but  that  must  wait  till  the  proportions  and 
growth  of  the  work  demand  it,  when  I doubt  not  we  shall 
have  the  necessary  means. 

A week  ago  I was  for  the  first  time  called  upon  to  cele- 
brate the  sacrament  of  baptism.  I then  baptized  two 
little  children  of  a German  family,  conducting  the  service 
in  Spanish,  as  few  of  the  company  present  understood 
English. 

One  thing  more  I must  mention.  A week  or  two  ago, 
there  appeared  a statement  in  a Mexico  paper  about 
Puebla  and  the  open  persecution  of  the  Protestants,  burn- 
ing their  house,  attempting  their  lives,  etc.  Fearing  it 
may  get  into  the  papers  at  home  and  cause  you  anxiety, 
I will  tell  you  that  the  whole  thing  is  a misrepresentation 
for  political  purposes.  The  only  shadow  of  foundation 
for  it  was  in  certain  vague  rumors  whose  source  could 
not  be  traced  and  whose  object  probably  was  to  frighten 
us  in  our  first  steps.  Bitter  enemies  we  have  undoubtedly, 
but  they  are  powerless  to  do  us  violence. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


49 


Several  of  the  Indians  of  whom  Dr.  Butler  wrote  some 
time  ago  in  the  Missionary  Advocate,  were  here  last 
week,  having  traveled  on  foot  from  Mexico  City.  They  said 
that  having  returned  from  their  country  to  Mexico  and 
not  finding  me  there,  they  had  come  on  to  Puebla  just  to 
salute  me  and  report  what  they  had  done  with  the  tracts 
and  Testaments  we  had  given  them.  The  leader  told  me 
that  seven  villages  of  their  people  had  united  in  asking 
for  a school,  to  be  established  by  us  among  them.  How 
I wish  we  could  do  something  for  them ! “The  harvest 
truly  is  great,  but  the  laborers  are  few ! Pray  therefore 
the  Lord  of  the  harvest  that  he  send  forth  laborers  into 
his  harvest.”  . . . 


(To  his  mother) 

Puebla,  June  15,  1875. 

My  last  letter  was  sent  off  in  great  haste  on  the  night 
of  the  day  in  which  we  moved  into  this,  our  newly  fitted 
up  home.  Everything  was  in  utter  confusion,  the  brick 
floors  were  thoroughly  wet  from  having  just  been 
scrubbed,  while  out  of  doors  the  rain  was  pouring  down 
in  torrents.  Now,  however,  things  are  considerably 
changed  for  the  better.  Something  like  order  begins  to 
reign  in  the  house,  and  the  weather  is  as  fine  as  could 
be  wished,  sun  shining  brilliantly,  four  snow-capped  sum- 
mits visible  from  our  roof,  and  the  whole  landscape  smil- 
ing in  verdure  in  consequence  of  the  rains. 

We  have  now  been  in  this  house  three  weeks,  holding 
our  services  as  usual,  and  without  any  serious  trouble. 
A week  ago  during  the  morning  service,  a great  crowd 
thronged  the  street  and  pressed  about  the  door,  but  this 
is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  considering  the  general  no- 
toriety of  our  house  and  work,  and  the  fact  that  our 
premises  front  the  market  place,  which  is  a busy  place 
all  day  Sunday.  The  greater  part  of  the  crowd  seemed 


50 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


actuated  by  mere  curiosity,  longing  to  catch  a glimpse 
of  the  interior  of  the  place  which  has  been  so  much  talked 
about  and  so  bitterly  denounced.  A few  evil  disposed 
persons  there  were  who  would  have  liked  to  excite  a 
tumult,  but  the  police  was  present  and  they  dared  not  do 
much.  Some  ugly  language  was  bandied  about  and  one 
or  two  stones  thrown,  and  that  was  all.  Some  of  those 
in  attendance  at  the  service  were  afraid  to  go  out  till  a 
rain  came  up  and  scattered  the  crowd. 

In  the  afternoon,  at  service  time,  another  crowd 
gathered,  and  I sent  down  and  invited  them  to  come  in, 
as  I had  done  in  person  in  the  morning.  Eight  or  nine 
of  them  accepted  the  invitation,  and  I noted  two  espe- 
cially, a man  and  his  wife,  who  at  first  gave  tokens  of 
dissent  from  what  was  said,  but  before  the  close  seemed 
to  be  listening  carefully  and  intensely.  I gave  them  a 
Testament  and  invited  them  to  come  again.  They  were 
here  yesterday,  and  bid  fair  to  become  followers  of  the 
truth. 

Two  weeks  ago  I received  the  box  of  clothing  for  the 
orphanage.  The  clothes  fit  admirably,  and  the  material 
is  just  the  thing.  I wish  I had  a whole  piece  of  the  cloth 
and  a piece  or  two  of  the  material  of  the  waists!  When 
I go  home  I shall  lay  in  a stock  of  it  to  bring  back  with 
me.  The  expense  of  the  box  to  us  was  about  $25,  thanks 
to  the  nominal  valuation  of  its  contents,  but  I could  not 
have  bought  the  material  here  and  had  the  same  amount 
of  clothing  made  for  less  than  $80,  and  then  it  would 
not  have  been  so  well  made.  Then,  too,  above  all  is  the 
thought  that  it  is  a token  of  Christian  interest  and  sym- 
pathy, which  imports  an  unspeakable  value  to  the  gift. 
The  children  are  delighted  with  them.  . . . 


Puebla,  July  6,  1875. 

The  first  Sunday  our  new  organ  was  used  in  the  service 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


51 


it  attracted  the  rabble,  and  the  house  was  filled  with  a 
very  disorderly  crowd.  In  the  midst  of  worship  a large 
stone  was  sent  crashing  through  the  front  window,  just 
behind  the  preacher.  The  inside  shutters  were  closed  so 
that  it  only  broke  the  glass  and  made  a great  racket.  I 
was  away  that  day,  preaching  in  Pachuca  and  Real  del 
Monte,  but  Dr.  Butler  and  his  wife  were  there,  he  being 
on  his  quarterly  visit  to  the  Mission.  Dr.  Skilton,  Con- 
sul General  of  the  United  States  in  Mexico,  was  present, 
and  immediately  made  a donation  of  $10  to  replace  the 
broken  window. 

The  whole  matter  probably  grew  out  of  the  fact  that 
there  has  lately  been  a change  of  public  officers,  and  the 
new  incumbent  neglected  to  send  the  police  to  keep  the 
peace.  I have  represented  the  matter  to  the  authorities, 
and  last  Sunday  we  were  duly  protected  and  the  day 
passed  off  in  perfect  quiet.  Our  enemies  find  their  hands 
are  tied.  Thus  far  we  have  little  or  no  cause  of  com- 
plaint against  the  authorities.  Still,  our  first  confidence 
is  in  God.  I see  so  many  and  such  wide  opportunities  for 
good,  opening  up  here,  that  I cannot  believe  that  God 
will  suffer  the  way  to  be  hedged  up.  Some  of  us  may 
have  to  suffer,  but  the  work  will  go  on. 

We  are  meeting  with  some  apparent  prosperity;  con- 
gregations larger,  and  more  and  more  persons  seeming 
to  be  becoming  really  attached  to  the  truth.  Last  Sun- 
day we  had  about  seventy  quiet,  attentive  hearers.  The 
attendance  is  encouraging. 

I am  especially  interested  in  the  indications,  from  time 
to  time,  of  the  opening  of  opportunities  to  evangelize  the 
native  Indian  populations.  Their  habits  and  modes  of 
thought  seem  very  Oriental  and  patriarchal,  so  that  they 
move  in  masses.  I feel  satisfied  that  when  it  becomes 
practicable  to  preach  to  them  directly  the  gospel  in  its 
simplicity,  they  will  rapidly  be  brought  to  see  the 


52 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


truth  and  throw  off  the  oppression  of  the  priests,  who 
seek  “every  man  his  own,  not  the  things  that  are  Jesus 
Christ’s.” 

Next  Sunday  some  representatives  from  an  Indian 
town  fourteen  leagues  away  are  coming  all  that  distance 
to  learn  more  of  that  truth  of  whose  brightness  they 
have  as  yet  seen  but  the  first  faint  glimmer. 

There  lives  here  in  Puebla  an  Indian  of  some  influence 
in  his  village  who,  for  years,  has  been  learning  gradually 
the  deception  of  the  priests  and  their  mercenary  aims. 
He  conceived  the  desire  that  his  son  should  be  educated 
and  fitted  to  be  an  instrument  in  elevating  and  freeing 
his  people.  He  therefore  moved  to  Puebla  where  he 
placed  the  boy  in  school.  He  has  come  to  know  some- 
thing of  the  Bible  and  its  value,  and  now  desires  that 
his  son  shall  fit  himself  to  be  a Protestant  preacher  to 
his  people.  In  these  feelings  the  son,  about  sixteen  or 
seventeen  years  of  age,  fully  shares.  For  weeks  he  has 
not  failed  to  be  present  at  any  one  of  our  services,  and 
wants  to  put  himself  under  my  instruction,  to  be  fitted 
for  the  ministry. 

As  speedily  as  possible,  I intend  securing  about  half  a 
dozen  such  young  men,  and  forming  the  nucleus  of  a 
biblical  school,  whose  object  shall  be  to  prepare  them  for 
evangelistic  work.  Of  course  its  beginnings  must  be  very 
humble  and  the  training  very  imperfect,  compared  with 
what  it  ought  to  be  and  will  be,  in  after  years,  by  God’s 
blessing. 

The  magnitude  of  this  work,  in  its  multiplied  demands, 
overwhelms  me!  O that  more  men  were  sent  out  to  help 
lay  the  foundations  deep  and  broad  for  the  future  of  the 
Methodist  Church  in  Mexico ! My  plans  are  so  many  and 
my  powers  to  execute  so  limited,  that  it  can  scarcely  be 
otherwise  than  the  results  should  very  scantily  fill  out 
the  scheme. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


53 


All  the  newspaper  tidings  I have  received  lately  from 
the  States  represent  the  condition  of  things  there  as 
well-nigh  disastrous  and  hopeless.  I hope  this  is  over- 
drawn. It  saddens  me  to  hear  such  news,  for  I never 
loved  my  native  land  as  I do  now.  . . . 

In  a letter,  written  the  latter  part  of  July,  he  men- 
tions having  performed  his  first  marriage  ceremony.  He 
writes  also,  in  detail,  of  a proposition  made  to  the  First 
Church  of  Xenia,  to  support  and  educate  one  of  the  boys 
in  the  orphanage,  and  suggests  that  they  become  respon- 
sible for  $60  a year  for  his  maintenance,  he  to  select  one 
of  the  brightest  and  most  promising  ones,  and  send  his 
name,  age,  and  photograph,  to  be  made  use  of  to  aid  in 
raising  money.  He  was  also  to  keep  the  Sunday  school 
informed  of  his  progress,  and  teach  the  boy  himself  to 
whom  he  was  indebted  for  his  education.  He  expressly 
states,  however,  that  this  contribution  is  not  to  interfere 
with  the  regular  Conference  missionary  appropriation ; 
the  full  amount  of  that  to  be  raised  first,  and  over  and 
above  that  the  support  of  the  boy.  This  was  done  and 
kept  up  for  many  years,  with  never  failing  interest  and 
enthusiasm. 

He  adds:  The  reports  of  the  mightly  revivals  of  re- 
ligion now  being  witnessed  in  Europe,  and  to  some  degree 
in  America,  seem  like  Pentecostal  times.  I am  some- 
times sorely  tempted  to  long  for  the  privilege  of  preach- 
ing the  gospel  in  my  mother  tongue.  Still,  I know  that 
the  work  in  which  I am  engaged  is  no  less  important  than 
that  in  the  homeland.  Indeed,  it  is  even  more  important, 
because  it  is  laying  the  foundations  of  gospel  truth  where 
error  has  so  long  prevailed;  foundations  upon  which  in 
after  years,  if  not  soon,  shall  be  built  a spiritual  church. 
So,  I ask  for  patience  and  strong  faith,  to  toil  on  here 
and  look  for  the  harvest.  . . . 


54 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


(To  his  Mother) 

Puebla,  August  17,  1875. 

The  last  few  days  have  been  exceedingly  busy  ones  for 
me,  finishing  up  work  on  our  chapel,  preparatory  to  the 
dedication,  which  occurred  last  Sunday.  I inclose  one 
of  the  printed  notices,  and  although  in  Spanish,  you  will 
see  at  all  events  that  we  took  good  care  to  announce  our 
movements  and  invite  the  people.  The  result  was  very 
favorable.  The  chapel  was  well  filled  and  the  congrega- 
tion very  quiet  and  attentive  for  the  most  part.  The  ma- 
jority were  of  the  lower  classes,  but  there  were  also  a 
goodly  number  of  well-to-do  people.  It  was  an  interest- 
ing company.  About  two  hundred  were  present  in  the 
morning  and  as  many  in  the  evening. 

Brother  John  Butler  came  down  from  Mexico  and 
preached  at  night,  and  his  brother  Edward  played  the 
organ.  All  passed  off  very  quietly,  although  there  had 
been  some  serious  threats.  The  government  furnished  us 
ample  protection. 

Our  chapel  is  very  neat  and  pretty.  The  ceiling  is  a 
dome,  supported  on  arches ; the  walls  are  light  blue,  with 
the  cornices  and  trimmings  white.  The  pulpit  is  a double, 
circular  platform,  the  desk  of  a beaiitiful  wood,  not  un- 
like cedar,  polished  and  varnished  in  its  natural  color. 
The  balustrade  is  of  the  same,  and  the  balusters  black. 
The  communion  table  is  of  Puebla  marble,  translucent 
and  beautifully  polished,  set  in  a black  frame.  The  carpet 
is  red  and  black. 

I am  in  hopes  our  congregations  will  speedily  fill  the 
chapel,  and  call  for  a larger  place  of  worship.  That  we 
have  been  able,  without  any  disturbance,  to  open  a Prot- 
estant church  side  by  side  with  a Romish  one,  and  that 
in  an  ancient  convent,  in  the  city  of  Puebla,  is  a great 
triumph;  greater  than  you  can  well  appreciate.  Many 
people  express  their  surprise  at  what  we  have  been  en- 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


55 


abled  to  accomplish.  “It  is  the  Lord’s  doing  and  mar- 
velous in  our  eyes!” 

Two  young  men,  one  twenty-five,  the  other  eighteen 
years  of  age,  have  been  sent  to  me,  and  they  with  my 
native  helper,  are  to  form  the  nucleus  of  a theological 
school  under  my  direction.  I have  to  begin  with  them 
almost  utterly  without  books  or  other  aids,  and  try  to 
train  them  into  efficient  preachers  of  the  truth.  Rather 
a great  undertaking,  you  will  say,  for  one  who  knows  so 
little  about  preaching  himself.  Well,  so  it  is.  But  what 
are  we  to  do?  we  must  have  native  preachers.  Men  who 
have  already  trained  minds  and  are  fit  for  the  work,  will 
not  dedicate  themselves  to  it,  so  we  must  take  such  young 
men  as  do  offer,  give  them  such  help  as  we  can,  and  then 
thrust  them  out  into  the  fields  that  are  already  white 
for  the  harvest.  I expect  the  number  of  these  will  be 
considerably  increased  by  the  first  of  October,  so  as  to 
form  quite  a respectable  class. 

To-morrow  Brother  Ludlow  and  family  leave  here  for 
Pachuca,  and  I shall  then  be  left  without  any  English- 
speaking  assistance.  My  duties  and  distractions  will,  in 
consequence,  be  increased.  Meanwhile,  under  all  this 
pressure,  I am  struggling  forward  as  best  I may  in  my 
Spanish,  making  some  progress,  as  I venture  to  hope.  . . . 

Puebla,  August  30,  1875. 

My  dear  Mother: 

I am  now  keeping  bachelor’s  hall.  I have  a servant 
girl  who  comes  every  morning  and  stays  all  day.  She 
cooks  for  me  it  la  Mexicana,  and  I get  along  with  it  very 
well.  My  only  companion  at  the  table  is  a cat,  which 
has  attached  herself  to  me. 

I have  made  the  acquaintance  of  a German  lady,  the 
wife  of  a physician,  who  has  been  very  kind.  She  was 
brought  up  among  the  Moravians,  and  so  understands 


56 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


more  of  spiritual  religion  tlian  most  of  her  country  peo- 
ple. She  has  been  so  long  without  church  privileges  and 
spiritual  helps  that  she  feels  herself  in  a backslidden 
state.  The  first  time  she  came  to  church  the  tears  rolled 
down  her  cheeks  in  a flood  from  the  old  memories  that 
stirred  in  her  heart. 

For  the  last  two  weeks  I have  had  an  intermittent 
fever  which,  while  not  confining  me  to  bed,  has  made  it 
impossible  for  me  to  do  more  than  oversee  things  about 
the  establishment.  The  fever  seems  now  to  be  broken, 
and  I am  feeling  much  better  this  morning. 

Before  you  receive  this,  I will  have  passed  my  birth- 
day— twenty-four  years  old.  I doubt  not  you  will  re- 
member it.  Pray  for  me  that  if  I live  another  twenty- 
four  years  they  may  bear  much  fruit  for  the  Master.  . . . 

(To  his  Father) 

Puebla,  September  5,  1875. 

No  doubt  you  and  mother  are  in  Cincinnati  to-day  en- 
joying Conference,  that  annual  feast  of  tabernacles,  at 
least  in  a sense.  Such  opportunities  are  among  the  things 
whose  loss  I feel  very  keenly,  for  hearing  and  associating 
with  God’s  approved  workmen  would  be  a means  of  edu- 
cation and  a stimulus  which  I very  much  need.  So  I 
read  the  accounts  of  camp  meetings,  conventions,  Con- 
ferences, etc.,  sometimes  with  a half  feeling  of  regret. 
I am  too  young  to  be  thrown  so  utterly  upon  my  own  re- 
sources. It  is  not  impossible  that  my  intellectual  and 
even  my  spiritual  growth  may  be  stunted  or  misdirected. 
Still,  when  I look  at  the  other  side  of  the  matter,  and 
consider  the  vast  opportunities  of  usefulness  here  af- 
forded, and  see  what  by  God’s  blessing  has  already  been 
accomplished,  I can  only  rejoice  in  the  privilege  of  being 
engaged  in  such  a work.  As  for  the  rest  I can  trust  God 
and  try  to  work  faithfully.  If  I suffer  from  the  lack  of 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


57 


the  means  of  grace  it  is  my  own  fault,  for  the  Bible  I 
have,  and  the  Holy  Ghost  can  work  in  Mexico  as  wrell  as 
in  Ohio. 

Our  congregation,  which  began  seven  months  ago  with 
five,  has  grown  to  eighty,  and  this  in  spite  of  the  fact 
that  in  the  meantime  another  congregation  has  been  estab- 
lished by  another  Protestant  denomination.  The  degree 
of  sectarian  prejudice  manifested  by  some  of  the  de- 
nominations is  a shame  to  our  Protestant  faith!  By 
God’s  help  we  have  thus  far  kept  above  such  petty  and 
unworthy  jealousies,  and  will  do  so  to  the  end.  . . . 

Orizaba,  September  24,  1875. 

I left  Puebla  a week  ago  to-day,  on  the  present  trip, 
partly  for  my  health,  partly  for  work.  It  was  thought  a 
change  of  air  would  be  beneficial  and  perhaps  break  up 
the  fever  which  has  been  troubling  me  lately. 

I stopped  off  in  Apizaco  to  prospect  a little  and  ex- 
amine a site  offered  for  mission  house  and  church. 
Apizaco  is  a railroad  town,  probably  more  like  some  of 
our  Western  towns  than  any  other  place  in  Mexico.  It 
has  sprung  up  where  there  was  formerly  no  town,  and 
owing  to  the  establishment  of  railway  shops  and  manu- 
facturing establishments,  has  grown  very  rapidly  and 
is  looked  upon  as  an  important  point  for  a mission  sta- 
tion. It  is  only  two  hours  by  train  from  Puebla,  and 
belongs  to  my  district. 

The  Romanists  have  already  built  their  church,  though 
it  is  still  in  an  unfinished  condition.  A curious  story 
was  told  me  of  the  strife  among  the  Romish  parishioners 
as  to  the  choice  of  a saint,  for  every  church  must  have 
its  patron  saint. 

One  party  favored  the  election  of  an  image  of  the 
Virgin,  which  is  said  once  to  have  winked,  but  after  a 
heated  controversy,  the  opposing  party  triumphed  and 


58 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


their  favorite  idol  was  set  up.  But  in  the  night,  the 
partisans  of  the  Virgin  whose  image  had  performed  the 
prodigy  of  winking,  broke  into  the  church,  tore  down  the 
opposing  image  and  made  general  havoc.  The  blame  was 
sought  to  be  laid  on  the  innocent  Protestants,  and  in  the 
end  the  winking  idol  was  set  up.  I will  not  vouch  for 
the  details,  but  anyone  who  knows  the  Mexican  populace 
will  admit  that  such  an  occurrence  is  not  at  all  impos- 
sible. O how  they  need  the  gospel ! 

I finished  the  afternoon’s  work,  found  a lodging,  and 
got  to  bed  early,  as  I had  to  take  the  train  at  three  o’clock 
the  next  morning.  I reached  here  after  a seven  hours 
ride,  which  was  very  interesting  and  enjoyable. 

Oiuzaba  is  a large  city,  situated  on  the  border  of  the 
“tierra  calieute,”  or  hot  land  of  the  coast.  Its  climate 
is  very  different  from  that  of  Mexico  City  and  Puebla, 
much  warmer  and  moister.  Its  foliage  and  fruits  are 
tropical  and  very  beautiful.  In  the  season,  December, 
oranges  are  more  abundant  here  than  apples  ever  are  at 
home.  Imagine  a market  where  twelve  dozen  beautiful 
oranges  are  sold  for  eighteen  cents! 

Orizaba  presents  a very  picturesque  appearance  to  the 
foreigner.  The  houses  are  generally  low,  of  one  story, 
roofed  with  red  tiles,  with  wide  eaves  projecting  far  over 
the  sidewalk.  Everywhere  through  the  wide  entrances 
to  the  houses  yo\i  look  in  upon  a wilderness  of  foliage. 

On  Sunday  I preached  three  times — twice  in  Spanish 
and  once  in  English — and  after  the  evening  service  ad- 
ministered the  Lord’s  Supper  to  a large  number  of  people. 

Early  Monday  morning  I climbed  the  mountain  which 
rises  a thousand  feet  above  the  city,  and  on  whose  sum- 
mit was  fought  a battle  during  the  French  intervention. 
The  ruins  of  a fort  and  the  burial  place  of  the  slain  are 
still  visible.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  most  beautiful, 
including  the  city,  the  wide  and  fertile  valley,  with  its 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


59 


winding  streams,  orange  and  banana  trees,  and  other 
rich  tropical  vegetation,  all  hemmed  in  by  the  precipitous 
slopes  of  the  mountains  which,  green  and  wooded  to  their 
summits,  rise  to  a greater  altitude  than  that  at  which 
the  observer  stands.  While  we  stood  there,  the  train 
from  Vera  Cruz  came  rushing  up  the  valley,  her  mighty 
engine  puffing  and  snorting  as  if  anxious  for  the  long 
climb  that  would  place  her  on  the  elevated  central  table 
land  of  Mexico. 

Coming  down  we  met  a Mexican  matron  with  her 
brood  of  handsome  daughters,  mirthfully  climbing  the 
hill,  all  well  dressed  but  without  hat  or  bonnet,  articles 
largely  discarded  by  the  fair  sex  in  this  latitude. 

Breakfast  over  we  took  a coach  and  drove  out  to  In- 
genio,  about  live  miles  distant.  There  a large  volume  of 
water  bursts  suddenly  out  of  the  mountain  side,  pure 
and  clear.  It  is  the  outlet  of  a lake  many  leagues  distant 
among  the  mountains.  Its  waters  come  all  this  distance 
foaming  in  the  heart  of  the  mountain  and,  freed  from 
their  prison,  go  rejoicing  down  the  valley  only  to  be  as- 
signed the  commonplace  task  of  turning  the  immense 
turbine  wheels  of  a cotton  factory  and  paper  mill.  The 
water  was  so  fresh  and  clear  that  I yielded  to  the  im- 
pulse and  stripping  oft’  my  clothes  plunged  in  for  a bath, 
and  a delightful  one  it  was ! 

Tuesday  morning  early,  Brother  Stephens,  who  is 
preacher  in  charge  of  Orizaba,  and  the  other  half  of  the 
“we”  in  this  letter,  and  myself  took  the  train  for  Cor- 
doba, about  twenty  miles  away,  to  establish  a congrega- 
tion in  that  city.  I preached  Tuesday  and  Wednesday 
night,  and  though  the  weather  was  exceedingly  bad,  had 
good  congregations,  at  least  fifty  the  second  night,  and 
a very  favorable  opening  for  our  work. 

We  were  called  at  half  past  three  and  took  the  omnibus 
for  the  railway  station,  which  is  some  distance  from  the 


GO 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


town.  They  set  us  down  in  the  mud  about  a hundred 
yards  from  the  station  and,  loaded  down  with  our  bag- 
gage, we  had  to  flounder  about  in  the  darkness  till  we 
found  our  way  to  terra  firma  and  a cup  of  hot  coffee.  We 
finally  reached  Orizaba  about  six  o’clock.  Preached  again 
last  night.  I stay  here  till  Monday,  preaching  at  the 
three  services  on  Sunday  and  then  am  off  for  Pue- 
bla. . . . 


Puebla,  October  18,  1875. 

My  dear  Mother: 

The  long  successions  of  church  festivals  celebrated  at 
this  time  of  the  year,  commencing  with  the  feast  of  Santo 
Domingo,  and  going  through  that  of  San  Augustine,  San 
Francisco,  Santa  Teresa,  and  closing  up  with  the  feast 
of  Our  Lady  of  the  Rosary,  is  just  ended.  Most  of  them 
are  honored  in  a nine  days’  festival,  but  the  latter  saint 
is  deemed  worthy  of  a preeminence  which  is  indicated 
by  fifteen  days’  festivities.  As  the  image,  which  was  at 
one  time  incredibly  wealthy,  stands  in  the  church  of 
Santo  Domingo,  adjoining  our  mission  premises,  we  were 
right  in  the  midst  of  the  celebration. 

From  the  first  day  of  the  prescribed  period,  the  houses 
of  the  faithful  in  all  the  vicinity  of  the  church  are  ex- 
pected to  be  illuminated  by  lamps  or  paper  lanterns, 
hung  from  the  balconies.  A printed  notice  to  this  effect 
is  circulated  by  the  priests,  accompanied  often  with  a 
poem,  panegyric  of  the  saint,  ascribing  to  him  or  her  all 
honors,  not  even  withholding  those  due  to  God  alone.  A 
prose  translation  of  one  of  these  effusions,  celebrating 
the  glories  of  Saint  Dominic  Guzman  and  Saint  Francis 
of  Assisi,  founders  respectively  of  the  monkish  orders  of 
Dominicans  and  Franciscans,  is  as  follows:  “To  them 
the  world  owes  its  life,  since  in  proof  of  their  quenchless 
love  they  disarmed  the  sacred  right  hand  of  God,  and 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


61 


have  given  it  (the  world)  their  constant  protection.  Con- 
tinually in  its  behalf  they  pour  their  intercessions,  and 
until  it  return  to  fathomless  nothing,  will  they  fix  upon 
their  sons  their  pitying  gaze,  and  will  be  their  shield  in 
every  grief.” 

Every  day  during  the  progress  of  this  feast  there  is 
mass  at  five  o’clock  in  the  morning,  at  eight,  and  at 
twelve,  with  vespers  at  night,  all  accompanied  with  the 
music  of  a military  band.  At  some  appointed  hour  an 
orator,  chosen  from  the  clergy,  ascends  the  pulpit  and 
in  a strain  of  hyperecstatic  eloquence,  pours  out  and 
exhausts  all  the  resources  of  language  in  ascriptions  of 
purity,  merit,  chastity,  suffering,  and  boundless  influence 
at  the  court  of  heaven ; and  all  this  to  mere  men,  some 
of  whom  have  been  the  bloodiest  persecutors  of  the  faith 
of  Christ  that  history  has  ever  known. 

Every  night  the  streets  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
church  where  the  saint  has  his  shrine,  present  a most 
enlivened  appearance.  The  sidewalks  are  filled  with 
gaylv  dressed  people  intermingled  with  ragamuffins,  all 
pouring  along  in  an  unbroken  stream.  On  the  curbstone 
are  ranged  long  lines  of  venders  of  fruit,  nuts,  cakes,  and 
confectionery,  each  with  his  smoking,  flaring,  turpentine 
torch,  and  all  shouting  out  their  wares  in  loud  and  shrill, 
but  often  not  unmusical  notes. 

The  last  night  is  not  only  the  conclusion  but  also  the 
culmination  of  the  feast.  Then  the  illumination  is 
brighter,  the  crowd  gayer,  the  torches  more  flaring,  and 
the  venders  more  lusty  than  ever.  Bands  of  music  are 
stationed  at  various  points,  fancy  fireworks,  with  the 
more  vulgar  torpedoes,  firecrackers,  and  rockets,  with  the 
hubbub  of  the  laughing,  shouting  crowd,  keep  up  a racket 
which  dies  not  away  till  a late  hour.  Then  the  crowd 
scatters,  the  streets  grow  dark,  somber  and  silent,  the 
great  church  doors  swing  shut,  and  the  gaudy  image, 


62 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


having  had  its  day,  is  pushed  aside  into  dust  and  oblivion, 
to  be  supplanted  by  some  other,  and  scarce  thought  of  or 
mentioned  until  another  year  has  rolled  away.  Nothing 
is  to  be  heard  in  the  dead  streets  but  the  shrill  whistles 
of  the  night  watchmen  as  they  chorus  out  the  flying  hours, 
or  call  for  help  to  put  a quietus  upon  some  belated  strag- 
gler who  reels  along  with  the  drunken  shout  upon  his  lips, 
“Long  live  religion ! Death  to  the  Protestants !” 

With  all  this,  the  faithful  on  every  hand  lament  the 
decadence  of  splendor  and  show  and  enthusiasm  which 
formerly  characterized  these  feasts.  Certain  it  is  that 
Romanism  is  losing  its  hold,  though  slowly  and  almost 
imperceptibly.  May  God  enable  us  to  supplant  it  with  a 
purer,  better,  nobler  faith,  that  this  misguided  people 
may  no  longer  look  to  Mary  as  the  deified  queen  of  mercy 
aud  only  giver  of  salvation,  but  to  Jesus  alone,  the  com- 
passionate, loving,  yearning  Saviour!  May  God  turn 
them  back  again  to  the  “only  name”  and  saving 
hope!  . . . 

October  19.  I have  just  heard  that  the  steamers  will 
soon  begin  to  run  directly  from  New  Orleans  to  Vera 
Cruz,  without  stopping  at  Tuxpam  and  Tampico,  so  that 
the  passage  will  be  but  three  days.  Now,  cannot  you  and 
father  take  a six  weeks  vacation  and  come  down  to 
Mexico,  bring  Jenny  and  leave  her  to  return  with  me 
when  I go  home? 

Colonel  Foster,  the  American  Minister,  is  leaving  by 
the  next  steamer  for  a brief  vacation  and  will  return 
early  in  January  with  his  family.  In  case  you  and  father 
cannot  come  you  could  send  Jenny  with  them.  I will 
write  at  once  asking  if  it  will  be  convenient  for  them  to 
take  her  under  their  care,  and  hope  you  will  take  ad- 
vantage of  this  opportunity. 

Come  yourself,  if  possible ; if  not,  send  Jenny. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


63 


(To  his  Mother) 

November  10,  1875. 

I seem  to  have  become  very  well  known  now,  all  over 
the  city,  and  scarcely  ever  go  into  the  street  without 
receiving  some  token  that  my  presence  here  is  not  very 
highly  esteemed  by  all  parties.  Often  I hear  muttered 
words  of  hatred,  and  no  doubt  many  a curse  is  impre- 
cated upon  my  head.  I continually  meet  persons  to  whom 
I have  been  introduced  and  who  have  been  very  friendly 
in  private,  but  when  they  encounter  me  on  the  street, 
they  take  particular  pains  not  to  see  me;  not  that  they 
are  opposed  to  our  work  or  lack  good  will,  but  it  would 
compromise  them,  socially  and  commercially,  to  be  known 
to  be  friendly  to  the  Protestant  minister.  Amid  such 
obstacles  and  others,  which  spring  from  the  violent  hatred 
of  many,  we  have  to  build  up  our  work  slowly.  A few 
years  will,  I trust,  make  a vast  change. 

I have  just  received  the  Minutes  of  the  Cincinnati  Con- 
ference, and  am  utterly  surprised  and  astonished  at  the 
language  of  Dr.  Butler’s  letter!  This  with  all  the  other 
flattering  things  overwhelms  me.  How  unworthy  I am 
of  such  esteem!  May  God  make  me  all  that  these  things 
imply,  and  all  you  would  hope!  . . . 


CHAPTER  III 


Puebla,  January  11,  1876. 

Dear  Father: 

I cannot  tell  you  bow  glad  I am  to  have  Jenny  with 
me;  it  has  done  me  a great  deal  of  good  already.  When 
I knew  by  telegraphic  dispatch  that  she  was  in  Vera  Cruz, 
I was  in  a perfect  fever  of  excitement  till  the  moment 
I saw  her.  I went  down  the  road  as  far  as  the  place 
where  the  trains  from  Mexico  and  Vera  Cruz  meet  each 
other,  and  then  passed  over  into  the  up-train  altogether 
unexpectedly  to  Jenny.  You  may  imagine  our  mutual 
delight  at  the  meeting! 

She  will  no  doubt  write  you  how  well  I am  looking, 
and  how  much  better  she  found  things  than  she  expected. 
She  seems  contented  and  happy,  has  not  a word  of  com- 
plaint, and  if  she  is  at  all  homesick  bears  up  under  it 
nobly.  She  makes  the  beds,  sews  on  my  buttons,  is  going 
to  darn  my  stockings,  and  in  odd  times  practices  on  our 
cabinet  organ.  We  have  called  on  several  of  my  friends 
who  are  all  greatly  captivated  with  her.  Last  night  we 
took  tea  and  spent  the  evening  at  the  German  Consul’s, 
where  we  were  pleasantly  entertained. 

I received  this  morning  a note  from  Mrs.  Butler,  con- 
gratulating me  on  my  sister’s  arrival,  and  pressing  us 
very  urgently  to  go  to  Mexico  City  very  soon  to  visit  them. 
I do  not  think  there  is  any  danger  of  Jenny’s  getting  very 
homesick.  She  will  be  too  busy,  and  she  has  so  certain 
and  speedy  a prospect  of  returning  home.  I do  not  allow 
myself  to  think  much  of  the  time  when  she  must  leave 

64 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


65 


me;  that  is,  if  it  be  impossible  for  me  to  go  home  with 
her.  I tried  to  explain,  in  my  last  letter,  the  difficulties 
in  the  way  of  my  going  this  year,  though  I am  really 
anxious  to  do  so  if  possible. 

Brother  Craver  and  wife,  new  missionaries,  arrived  by 
the  same  steamer  on  which  Jenny  came.  I am  expecting 
a visit  from  them  at  the  end  of  the  month.  They  are  to 
go  to  Guanajuato  (change  the  u’s  into  w’s  and  the  j into 
h,  and  you  will  pronounce  it  right).  It  is  said  to  be  a 
very  dangerous  place,  perhaps  more  so  than  Puebla  was 
thought  to  be  a year  ago,  but,  as  has  been  the  case  here, 
no  doubt  they  will  find  the  way  open  before  them.  I 
doubt  if  there  be  any  place  in  all  Mexico  where  a man  of 
ordinary  courage  and  prudence  could  not  make  his  way 
and  meet  with  success. 

Another  missionary,  S.  W.  Siberts,  and  his  wrife  are 
expected  in  a few  weeks  to  go  to  Queretaro,  the  scene  of 
the  execution  of  Maximilian.  I am  now  in  excellent 
health  and  weigh  more  than  when  I left  home.  . . . 

-January  31. 

Jenny  and  I went  to  Mexico  City  a week  ago  at  the 
cordial  invitation  of  Mrs.  Butler.  I returned  home  the 
following  Monday,  leaving  her  for  a longer  stay.  Mrs. 
Butler  and  Mrs.  Foster  are  both  very  fond  of  Jenny  and 
speak  in  terms  of  high  admiration  of  her,  so  I do  not 
know  when  they  will  let  her  come  back  to  Puebla;  soon, 
I hope,  for  I miss  her  very  much.  She  has  met  a great 
many  nice  people  and  seems  to  be  enjoying  herself  ex- 
ceedingly. She  is  in  perfect  health,  and  I think  you  need 
feel  no  anxiety  about  her.  . . . 


February  21. 

Just  now  there  is  quite  an  extensive  revolution  going 
on  in  Mexico.  The  State  of  Oaxaca,  two  hundred  miles 


66 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


south  of  here,  is  all  in  arms.  Part  of  the  State  of  Puebla 
also  is  in  rebellion  and  the  government  troops  have  al- 
ready suffered  one  defeat.  What  the  end  will  be  it  is  im- 
possible now  to  foresee.  The  trouble  arises  from  alleged 
arbitrary  procedure  of  the  central  government,  in  viola- 
tion of  the  federal  constitution,  together  with  the  sup- 
posed design  of  President  Lerdo  to  reelect  himself,  con- 
trary to  the  popular  will,  in  the  approaching  presidential 
election. 

The  government  is  evidently  in  great  straits  for  men 
and  money.  Large  numbers  of  men  are  being  pressed 
into  the  army,  in  a most  unrepublican  style.  The  govern- 
ment sends  out  squads  of  soldiers  into  the  streets,  and 
wherever  they  see  a poor  man  who  looks  as  though  he 
would  make  a soldier,  they  seize  him  and  march  him  off 
to  the  barracks  like  a criminal.  Remonstrance  is  useless 
and  there  is  no  appeal.  It  is  still  hoped  that  the  legiti- 
mate authorities  will  triumph  without  delay. 

Whether  Puebla  is  to  be  the  scene  of  a siege,  as  in 
former  years,  is  as  yet  doubtful,  though  it  seems  im- 
probable from  the  fact  that  it  is  now  so  nearly  connected 
by  the  railway  with  the  capital  whence  large  bodies  of 
troops  can  be  sent,  on  a few  hours’  notice,  for  its  defense. 
In  case  of  danger,  I shall  place  Jenny  in  the  German 
Consulate,  where  she  will  be  perfectly  safe  and  with  very 
kind  friends.  I write  you  all  these  facts  to  forestall  the 
sensational  items  of  home  newspapers.  All  this  trouble 
has  sprung  up  in  an  almost  incredibly  short  time.  When 
I wrote  for  Jenny  and  when  she  arrived  here,  I had  not 
the  slightest  suspicion  of  this. 

We  hope  it  may  pass  over  as  quickly  as  it  has  arisen. 
War  news  travels  very  slowly  and  is  very  unreliable  in 
Mexico,  and  though  there  are  telegraph  lines  in  every 
direction,  we  are  ignorant  for  days  of  what  is  passing 
within  fifty  miles  of  us.  . . . 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


67 


Ten  days  later,  the  revolution  still  continuing  and 
spreading  to  an  alarming  extent,  he  sent  his  sister  back 
to  Mexico  City. 


Puebla,  March  13,  1876. 

My  dear  Mother: 

This  has  been  one  of  the  most  exciting  days  I have  ever 
experienced ; thank  God  the  night  has  fallen  about  us  in 
peace  and  tranquillity.  Yesterday  passed  as  quietly  as 
usual,  and  also  the  greater  part  of  the  night,  but  this 
morning  Puebla  awoke  to  the  greatest  uproar  and  alarm. 
Between  three  and  four  o’clock,  the  Eighth  Battalion  of 
the  federal  troops  of  the  line  stationed  here,  “pronounced.” 
This  is  a Mexican  term  which  means  that  these  troops 
renounced  allegiance  to  the  existing,  legal  government  of 
President  Lerdo  and  declared  in  favor  of  Porfirio  Diaz, 
the  rival  candidate  for  the  presidency.  This  kind  of  a 
pronouncement  always  involves  a resort  to  arms.  The 
Eighth  Battalion  was  soon  in  movement,  and  those  of 
its  officers  who  would  not  participate  in  the  rebellion 
were  speedily  bound  and  imprisoned.  The  troops  were 
immediately  put  on  the  march,  with  the  purpose  of  mak- 
ing the  circuit  of  the  other  barracks  and  strong  points 
of  the  city,  and  taking  possession  of  them.  Driving  be- 
fore them  what  little  resistance  they  met*  in  the  course  of 
three  hours  they  made  the  circuit  of  half  the  city,  taking 
possession  of  the  quarter  called  La  Luz,  of  San  Francisco 
and  San  Jose. 

Their  next  point  of  attack  was  the  public  prison  where, 
after  some  sharp  fighting,  they  gained  possession,  and, 
opening  wide  the  doors,  let  loose  upon  society  a horde  of 
the  most  desperate  and  abandoned  characters.  All  this 
was,  however,  but  preliminary.  Having  armed  such  of 
their  new  allies,  the  prisoners,  as  they  could  provide  with 
weapons,  the  leaders  arranged  the  attack  on  the  Plaza, 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


08 

or  principal  public  square  of  the  city.  All  being  ready, 
they  moved  in  two  main  bodies,  numbering  together  about 
four  hundred  men,  along  two  parallel  streets  leading  to 
this  Plaza.  Here  the  final,  and  as  it  proved  in  the  event, 
somewhat  successful  resistance  awaited  them. 

The  loyal  troops  had  been  stationed  in  the  government 
buildings,  the  cathedral,  and  the  bishop’s  palace,  all  of 
which  command  the  Plaza  and  its  approaches.  In  these 
positions,  though  much  weaker  in  numbers,  they  had  a 
decided  advantage  over  the  disturbers  of  the  peace.  The 
latter  had  to  attack  openly  a foe  concealed  on  the  house- 
tops and  behind  the  lofty  parapets  and  towers  of  the 
cathedral.  Notwithstanding  these  difficulties,  they  fought 
well  and,  having  taken  possession  of  some  adjacent  build- 
ings, finally  succeeded  in  dislodging  the  government 
soldiers  from  the  Governor’s  Palace,  of  which  they  then 
made  themselves  owners.  They  then  kept  up  a continual 
fusillade  against  the  cathedral,  which  was  answered  with 
spirit  by  the  defenders  of  that  point.  Here,  however, 
euded  their  triumphs! 

The  cathedral  was  too  easily  defensible,  and  com- 
manded too  thoroughly  the  other  points  defended  by  the 
government  troops,  to  permit  the  taking  by  assault  either 
the  former  or  the  latter.  The  only  recourse  was  to  wait 
for  hunger  to  bring  the  besieged  to  terms,  but  this  was 
also  impracticable,  for  a few  hours  might  bring  govern- 
ment troops  to  the  spot  to  relieve  the  besieged  and  cut  in 
pieces  the  besiegers.  Under  these  circumstances,  it  was 
determined  to  march  out  of  the  city,  take  a few  hours  for 
rest  and  reorganization,  expecting  meanwhile  the  arrival 
of  considerable  bodies  of  rebel  troops  marching  against 
Puebla.  So  the  bugle  called  “the  assembly,”  and  in  a 
short  time  the  rebels  had  retired  in  good  order  beyond  the 
limits  of  the  city. 

It  was  eleven  o’clock  when  the  firing  ceased  and  the 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


fl!) 


city  began  gradually  to  become  once  more  tranquil.  The 
number  of  dead  and  wounded  is  variously  reported  from 
twelve  to  thirty.  One  thing  is  certain,  that  the  pave- 
ments of  the  principal  streets  of  the  city  are  freely 
stained  with  blood.  The  firing  was  at  times  very  hot ; at 
others  almost  ceased.  Being  on  the  roof  of  our  house, 
where  I could  see  and  yet  be  amply  protected  from  ran- 
dom balls,  I could  hear  the  continual  whistle  of  rifle  balls 
above  my  head,  often  very  near. 

We  have  always  had  a little  reason  to  fear  that,  on 
such  an  occasion  as  that  of  to-day,  the  fanatical  people 
would  avail  themselves  of  the  opportunity  to  do  us  some 
harm.  But  in  the  greatest  excitement  of  this  morning  no 
one  seemed  even  to  think  of  the  Protestants.  We  are  all 
safe  and  well,  and  persuaded  that  God  will  take  care  of 
us  always,  and  make  all  this  political  and  social  trouble 
turn  out  to  the  furtherance  of  his  blessed  gospel. 

I telegraphed  Jenny  this  afternoon  of  my  safety,  tell- 
ing her  not  to  come  to  Puebla  till  I sent  for  her.  . . . 

Vera  Cruz,  April  5,  1876. 

Dear  Father: 

You  will  no  doubt  be  very  much  surprised  at  the  un- 
expected return  of  Jenny.  It  is  a great  trial  to  me  to 
have  her  visit  cut  short,  but  the  unfortunate  state  of 
things  in  Mexico,  and  especially  in  that  part  of  it  where 
I am  stationed,  makes  it  advisable.  Puebla  is  almost  the 
seat  of  war,  nearly  all  the  state  in  revolt,  and  the  city 
threatened  with  attack  and  siege. 

Notwithstanding  all  this,  Jenny  might  have  remained 
longer  if  it  had  been  certain  that  I should  be  able  to 
accompany  her  home  in  six  or  eight  weeks  from  now,  as 
I had  hoped  to  do,  but  the  revolution  has  made  all  that 
uncertain.  My  work  has  suffered  a good  deal  and  needs 
my  presence.  I cannot  leave  Puebla  until  the  present 


70 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


troubles  are  over,  or  at  least  till  that  part  of  the  republic 
where  my  work  lies  has  been  completely  pacified. 

A good  opportunity  for  her  to  go  home  presented  itself 
in  the  return  of  Colonel  Foster’s  family  to  the  States,  as 
nearly  every  one  who  can  at  all  leave  is  getting  out  of 
the  country.  I need  not  say  how  great  is  my  disappoint- 
ment at  not  being  able  to  accompany  Jenny  home.  I 
could  not  say  good-by  to  her  in  Puebla,  so,  in  spite  of 
the  expense,  determined  at  least  to  see  her  on  board  the 
steamer.  I sit  here  in  the  hotel  as  I write,  and  looking 
out  over  the  blue  waters  of  the  Gulf,  think  how  delightful 
it  would  be  if  I were  to  go  too  to-morrow,  instead  of  being 
left  behind.  I expect  I shall  be  very  lonely  when  I get 
back  to  Puebla  again.  I feel  I ought  to  thank  you  and 
mother  for  lending  her  to  me  so  long.  She  was  a real 
blessing  to  me.  . . . 

Two  months  later  the  country  was  still  in  such  an  un- 
settled state  that  communication  with  the  coast  or  even 
with  the  capital  was  very  uncertain.  The  attention  of 
the  government  which  had  been  diverted  temporarily 
from  the  State  of  Puebla,  by  the  occupation  of  Mata- 
moros  by  General  Porfirio  Diaz,  had  again  been  recalled 
there  by  later  events;  the  revolutionary  troops  had  been 
constantly  gaining  in  numbers  and  resources  until  they 
seriously  threatened  the  city,  and  the  government  finally 
sent  one  of  its  best  generals  with  such  troops  as  could 
be  gathered  to  attack  the  enemy. 

He  writes  June  5 : General  entered  Puebla  yes- 

terday with  a mere  remnant  of  his  shattered  force,  with- 
out arms  or  ammunition,  having  been  utterly  defeated. 
It  is  said  that  thirteen  hundred  men  were  killed  out  of 
four  thousand  engaged  on  both  sides.  Within  a week 
another  severe  defeat  has  been  added  to  the  long  list  of 
reverses  which  the  government  has  met  with  in  this  cam- 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


71 


paign.  Whether  it  will  be  able  to  recuperate  its  losses 
and  subdue  the  revolution  remains  to  be  seen.  Of  course 
we  can  have  no  interest  in  this  struggle  except  to  desire 
and  pray  for  a speedy  end  to  the  fearful  destruction  of 
human  life,  and  the  triumph  of  law  and  prevalence  of 
peace. 

I have  seen  in  some  of  the  home  papers  statements 
which  represent  the  principles  of  the  revolutionists  as 
reactionary  in  their  tendency,  and  favorable  to  the  Ro- 
mish Church.  I think  such  representations  are  altogether 
untrue.  The  church  has  stood  aloof  altogether  in  this 
struggle.  It  has  little  to  gain  or  lose  in  the  issue,  and 
takes  little  interest  in  it.  The  revolutionists  are  just  as 
liberal  as  is  the  government  of  President  Lerdo.  One  of 
its  leaders,  a general  in  the  rebel  army,  told  me  months 
ago,  that  if  there  should  be  such  a change  in  the  govern- 
ment as  he  hoped  for,  our  work  as  missionaries  would 
be  more  favored  by  the  new  than  by  the  old  government. 
So  do  not  let  anything  in  the  papers  cause  you  anxiety 
on  this  point.  We  may  be  besieged  here  within  the  next 
two  weeks,  and  we  may  not  be  besieged  at  all,  and  the 
latter  is  the  most  probable.  In  any  case  there  is  nothing 
to  fear.  I doubt  not  all  these  things  will  turn  out  to  the 
furtherance  of  the  gospel  in  Mexico.  Let  us  pray  and 
believe  that  this  will  be  the  result! 

You  will  want  to  know  how  my  work  goes  on  in  the 
midst  of  all  this  confusion.  Well,  it  cannot  be  doubted 
that  the  present  unsettled  condition  of  the  country  is  a 
temporary  hindrance.  Not  a few  of  our  former  attend- 
ants have  been  pressed  into  the  army;  others  do  not  come 
for  fear  of  being  caught  in  the  streets  and  put  in  the 
army,  and  new  attendants  do  not  come  for  the  same 
reason.  Notwithstanding  this,  we  always  have  hearers, 
and  our  congregation  presents  a respectable  appearance 
in  regard  to  numbers.  I held  two  extra  services  last 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


week,  with  the  special  purpose  of  praying  for  an  out- 
pouring of  the  Holy  Spirit.  There  was  a very  gracious 
influence  manifest  in  both  services.  O,  how  I long  to  see 
a revival  here ! 

The  children  are  all  well  and  happy.  I wish  you  could 
have  seen  some  letters  written  to  their  friends  by  two 
of  the  larger  boys!  How  seriously  they  exhorted  them 
to  seek  the  true  religion,  and  how  one  of  them  expressed 
his  joy  at  the  prospect  of  one  day  being  a preacher  of  the 
gospel ! One  asked  me  for  a Bible  to  send  to  his  uncle. 
On  the  whole,  as  is  to  be  expected,  while  some  phases 
of  my  work  are  very  encouraging  and  hopeful,  I am  not 
free  from  discouragements  and  severe  trials.  But  my 
sufficiency  is  of  God. 

My  occupations  are  very  numerous  and  take  up  my 
time  so  fully  that  I can  with  difficulty  keep  up  my  corre- 
spondence. I rise  at  half  past  five,  and  retire  at  ten 
o’clock,  and  yet  do  not  get  through  with  my  work  satis- 
factorily. I would  get  up  earlier  and  go  to  bed  later,  but 
in  spite  of  Mr.  Wesley’s  rules  for  a preacher,  my  health 
won’t  stand  it. 


(To  his  Mother) 

Puebla,  June  26,  1876. 

Six  long  weeks  have  gone  by  since  I have  had  a line 
from  you.  Your  last  letter  was  probably  intercepted  and 
carried  off'  by  the  rebels  who  stopped  the  train  and  carried 
off  the  mail  bags  the  very  day  that  I ought  to  have  re- 
ceived it. 

Since  I last  wrote,  there  has  been  little  change  in  po- 
litical matters,  no  decisive  movements  of  either  party. 
Yesterday  was  primary  election  day,  but  very  few  voted, 
the  vast  majority  deeming  the  election  a mere  farce,  since 
President  Lerdo  is  determined  to  keep  his  seat  by  hook 
or  crook.  Many  people  seem  to  think  this  war  will  last 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


73 


a long  time,  and  only  end  with  the  destruction  of  Lerdo. 
Certain  it  is  that  the  revolutionary  forces  show  no  symp- 
toms of  weariness,  and  are  gaining  in  numbers  and  re- 
sources. 

One  can  but  recognize  the  fact  that  Lerdo  represents 
the  legitimate  constitutional  government  of  the  country, 
and  the  real  interests  of  Mexico  would  seem  to  be  best 
conserved  by  the  victory  of  the  party  now  in  power.  This 
is  certainly  true  with  regard  to  Mexico’s  relations  with 
foreign  powers.  If  the  government  is  defeated  and  over- 
thrown by  armed  insurrection,  it  will  undoubtedly  beget 
a lack  of  confidence  in  Mexico’s  power  of  self-government, 
and  the  nations  will  not  so  readily  enter  into  commercial 
relations  with  her.  If  on  the  other  hand  the  government 
triumphs,  Mexico  will  seem  to  have  taken  a long  step 
toward  a settled  and  well  established  government.  I do 
not  pretend  to  decide  upon  the  merits  of  the  present  con- 
troversy, much  less  take  sides,  but  I earnestly  pray  that 
these  troubles  may  speedily  come  to  an  end. 

I have  lately  taken  two  journeys,  spending  one  Sunday 
in  Orizaba,  where  I preached  three  times,  and  one  in 
Mexico  City,  preaching  twice. 

How  I should  like  to  be  at  home  the  Fourth  of  July! 
I think  I shall  have  to  put  out  the  stars  and  stripes,  and 
get  up  a jollification  that  day,  on  my  own  account.  . . . 

(To  his  Mother) 

July  17,  1876. 

The  war  is  still  going  on,  with  the  scale  apparently 
turning  in  favor  of  the  government.  The  rebel  forces  have 
mostly  retired  to  the  mountains,  and  the  national  troops 
are  again  in  possession  of  many  places  which  the  rebels 
had  occupied.  The  elections  are  past  and  Lerdo  is  prob- 
ably reelected;  whether  legally  or  not  is  a disputed  point, 
which  may  possibly  cause  a revival  of  the  present  conflict 


74 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


before  the  close  of  the  year.  Things  are  certainly  in  a 
deplorable  condition  in  this  country.  One  would  almost 
despair  of  its  future  were  it  not  for  the  assurance  that 
God  reigns,  and  can  bring  order  out  of  confusion,  pros- 
perity and  blessing  out  of  apparently  great  disaster.  The 
present  circumstances  seem  to  be  very  adverse,  but  the 
King  will  know  how  to  work  out  his  own  design  in  it  all. 

Next  week  an  ex-priest,  a good  preacher,  is  coming 
down  here  from  Mexico  City  to  help  me  for  a few  days. 
The  people  are  curious  to  hear  him,  and  I hope  he  may 
awaken  a new  and  abiding  interest  in  many  who  may 
come  to  hear  him  out  of  curiosity.  . . . 

We  have  been  fortunate  in  finding  a man  who  promises 
to  become  very  useful  to  us,  not  only  in  the  management 
of  the  orphanage  and  school  work,  for  which  he  is  spe- 
cially fitted,  but  also  in  preaching.  He  is  a German, 
about  thirty  years  of  age,  and  while  not  a university  man, 
has  had  very  thorough  gymnasium  training,  such  as  is 
to  be  had  only  in  Germany.  He  is  also  a very  fine  mu- 
sician. 

He  came  to  Mexico,  as  did  many  others,  at  the  time  of 
the  French  invasion,  and  at  the  close  of  the  war  took  a 
position  as  manager  of  a large  plantation  near  Orizaba. 
Being  attracted  to  our  services  in  that  city,  he  finally 
became  a member  of  our  church,  and  later  we  employed 
him  in  our  school  there.  I have  now  secured  his  transfer 
to  Puebla,  as  my  assistant  in  the  orphanage  and  theo- 
logical school.  . . . 


October  9,  1876. 

Our  quarterly  communion  service  was  held  last  Sunday 
night,  with  about  two  hundred  persons  present.  We  had 
a solemn  and  profitable  time.  We  have  had  some  special 
tokens  of  prosperity  lately,  one  of  which  I must  tell  you 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


75 


about.  A young  man  whom  I have  noticed  for  some 
weeks  as  a constant  and  attentive  member  of  the  con- 
gregation stood  up  in  our  meeting  Thursday  night  and 
proclaimed  his  faith  in  the  Saviour.  He  had  been  a 
person  of  very  abandoned  habits,  almost  constantly  in- 
toxicated, and  a great  grief  to  his  mother.  A fellow  work- 
man had  talked  with  him  about  the  Protestants,  but  he 
was  not  at  all  inclined  to  accept  his  invitation  to  come 
to  our  services.  Finally  his  companion  loaned  him  a Bible 
which  he  carried  home  and  read  a few  chapters,  becom- 
ing so  interested  that  he  besought  his  friend  to  take  him 
to  the  Protestant  meetings.  He  began  coming  and  the 
good  Spirit  wrought  in  his  soul  so  that  now  he  declares 
nothing  can  separate  him  from  his  new  found  religious 
home  and  faith.  Best  of  all  there  has  been  a complete 
transformation  in  his  life.  He  has  ceased  drinking  al- 
together and  cast  off  his  old  associates  and  habits,  and 
spends  his  nights  at  home  reading  his  precious  Bible. 

His  mother,  noticing  the  great  change  in  him,  asked 
what  had  come  over  him  and  he  answered : “Why,  mother, 
I have  become  a Protestant!”  The  mother,  at  first  hor- 
rified that  her  son  should  be  of  a sect  everywhere  spoken 
against,  could  not  but  be  reconciled  to  that  which  had 
wrought  such  a blessed  change  in  her  wayward  boy,  and 
does  not  now  oppose  him.  This  is  not  the  only  incident 
of  a similar  character  which  has  come  to  my  knowledge 
lately,  and  I hope  and  trust  that  they  may  be  greatly 
multiplied.  . . . 

At  the  end  of  October  he  was  called  to  Mexico  City  to 
attend  the  funeral  of  a German  Lutheran  minister,  pastor 
of  the  German  congregation  there,  to  whom  he  pays  this 
tribute : “Brother  Goethe  had  traveled  very  widely  and 
been  a very  useful  minister  in  many  places.  A little  over 
a year  ago,  being  afflicted  with  asthma,  he  left  his  home 


76 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


and  family  in  Sacramento,  California,  and  came  to 
Mexico,  seeking  relief.  On  bis  arrival  be  became  very 
much  interested  in  the  mission  work,  and  in  the  religious 
welfare  of  bis  countrymen.  Providentially  the  way  was 
opened  for  the  establishment  of  a German  congregation. 
Brother  Goethe  threw  his  whole  heart  into  his  new  work 
and  against  many  obstacles,  not  the  least  of  which  was 
the  religious  indifference  of  his  countrymen.  They  will- 
ingly paid  his  salary  and  highly  respected  him,  but  they 
would  not  attend  the  preaching  services.  He  performed 
for  them  faithfully  all  the  offices  of  a pastor,  visiting 
them  in  their  homes,  baptizing  their  children,  burying 
their  dead,  yet  often  preaching  on  Sabbath  to  hut  two  or 
three  persons. 

“But  though  his  German  work  seemed  almost  utterly 
fruitless,  he  did  a noble  work  for  our  Spanish  mission. 
Having  very  rapidly  acquired  a good  working  use  of  the 
language,  he  immediately  began  to  participate  in  the 
Spanish  worship,  praying,  exhorting,  and  preaching  with 
great  fervor  and  blessed  fruits.  He  endeared  himself  to 
all  who  knew  him,  and  especially  to  the  members  of  our 
mission,  by  the  simplicity7,  sincerity,  and  purity  of  his 
character. 

“About  two  weeks  ago  he  fell  sick  of  a low  fever.  He 
had  struggled  through  the  worst  of  the  disease  and  begun 
to  amend,  and  all  were  filled  with  hope;  when  a sudden 
aggravation  of  his  old  trouble,  which  in  his  debilitated 
condition  he  could  not  resist,  carried  him  off  very  sud- 
denly. The  saddest  circumstance  connected  with  his 
death  is  that  his  wife  had  just  taken  their  two  youngest 
children  to  Evanston,  Illinois,  to  place  them  in  college, 
intending  to  go  thence  to  New  Orleans,  sailing  from  there 
for  Mexico.  They  were  both  eagerly  anticipating  the  re- 
union after  more  than  a year’s  separation.  Moreover, 
the  family  is  left  destitute,  and  the  boys  will  be  without 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


77 


means  to  pursue  the  course  of  education  which  their 
father  had,  with  much  anxious  care  and  many  sacrifices 
of  personal  comfort,  planned  for  them.” 

November  17,  1876. 

My  dear  Mother: 

The  last  few  weeks  have  been  a time  of  much  anxiety. 
The  revolution  has  been  gaining  ground  and  now  seems 
more  threatening  than  ever.  Some  days  ago  a quite  well 
appointed  force  left  here,  under  command  of  Genei’al 
Alatorre,  and  the  government  party  hoped  he  would  make 
head  against  the  revolutionists.  But  he  was  utterly  de- 
feated yesterday,  and  all  day  to-day  the  fragments  of  his 
troops  have  been  coming  in.  Fortifications  have  been 
begun  here.  Barricades  are  put  up  in  the  principal 
streets  about  the  public  square,  and  preparations  are 
made  to  resist  an  expected  attack  of  the  hostile  forces. 
We  are  left  outside  of  the  projected  line  of  defense,  which 
is  all  the  better  for  us,  as  we  will  enjoy  greater  liberty, 
and  can  more  easily  be  supplied  with  eatables. 

There  is  nothing  to  fear  from  the  pronunciados.  In  all 
the  excitement  of  this  day  we  have  been  altogether  un- 
annoyed, and  I think  you  need  not  have  any  anxiety  as 
to  what  may  have  passed  by  the  time  you  receive  this 
note.  We  are  in  God's  hands  and  have  the  pledge  of  his 
protection. 

For  nearly  two  weeks  the  railroad  between  Mexico 
City  and  Vera  Cruz  has  been  interrupted,  and  the  dili- 
gence route  is  dangerous.  A friend  of  mine  was  robbed 
this  week  on  the  road  from  Mexico  here.  I think  that 
before  the  middle  of  December  things  will  be  more  tran- 
quil. I must  close  so  as  to  get  this  through  to  the  post 
office,  before  the  sentinels  are  placed  in  the  barri- 
cade. . . . 


CHAPTER  IV 


Puebla,  .January  1,  1877. 

One  o’clock  a.  m. 

My  dear  Mother: 

I have  been  exceedingly  busy  about  Christmas  and  New 
Year’s  matters,  so  I can  only  write  a little  note  to  wish 
you  all  a Happy  New  Year. 

Our  Watch  Night  meeting  is  just  closed.  In  the  earlier 
part  of  the  evening,  we  celebrated  the  Lord’s  Supper, 
and  I received  ten  persons  into  full  connection  in  the 
church.  The  congregation  numbered  about  a hundred 
and  seventy-five.  The  watch  meeting  began  at  ten  o’clock, 
and  at  least  eighty  persons  remained  till  the  close  of  the 
service.  So  we  are  launched  upon  a new  year.  May  it 
be  a better,  happier,  more  successful  one  than  the  past! 
I want  to  begin  with  the  new  year  and  live  all  through 
its  course  a life  of  deeper  consecration  and  more  willing 
obedience  than  ever  before.  I am  seeking  and  have  for 
some  time  been  seeking,  a deeper  baptism  of  the  Holy 
Ghost,  a more  complete  surrender  of  self,  and  greater 
power  over  sin.  How  much  I need  all  these  for  my  work ! 
Help  me  by  your  fervent  prayers.  . . . 


January  19,  1877. 

You  are  no  doubt  right  in  the  midst  of  the  coldest 
winter  weather.  It  almost  makes  me  shiver  to  think  of 
it!  Here  too  we  are  having  what  we  call  cold  weather, 
though  it  does  not  prevent  the  flowers  from  flourishing 
and  blooming  out  of  doors,  nor  the  fields  from  being  green 

78 


MR.  DREES  AS  A COLLEGE  STUDENT 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


79 


and  fresh.  Still,  owing  to  the  coldness  and  dampness  of 
our  house,  I have  felt  the  cold  quite  keenly. 

The  revolution  seems  finally  to  have  completely  tri- 
umphed in  all  parts  of  the  republic,  and  General  Diaz  is 
in  the  full  tide  of  prosperity.  The  extraordinary  elec- 
tions for  president  and  state  officers  are  to  be  held  the 
28th  of  this  month.  There  is  no  doubt  of  Diaz’s  election. 
Every  one  now  hopes  for  peace  and  prosperity,  at  least 
for  a time. 

School  has  opened  again,  and  I am  hard  at  work  with 
my  young  students.  There  seems  no  present  prospect 
of  the  removal  of  the  orphanage  from  this  place,  as  funds 
are  very  low  and  such  a removal  would  involve  con- 
siderable expense.  Last  Wednesday  night  we  held  the 
first  public  anniversary  of  our  school,  and  the  premiums, 
awarded  as  the  result  of  the  recent  examinations,  were 
distributed.  The  children  have  made  quite  satisfactory 
advancement,  and  under  certain  new  arrangements  which 
I have  made  for  the  present  year,  I shall  expect  still 
better  results.  . . . 


February  10. 

Since  I last  wrote,  I have  had  a little  diversion  in  the 
visit  of  several  American  travelers  from  Philadelphia  and 
New  Jersey.  They  visited  the  mission  house  several 
times,  attended  the  church  services,  and  I went  with  them 
to  see  some  of  the  sights  of  Puebla.  An  English  gentle- 
man and  his  wife  were  also  here  at  the  same  time,  and 
on  saying  good-by,  the  gentleman  put  ten  dollars  into  my 
hands  for  the  orphanage. 

It  is  now  pretty  well  settled  that  I am  to  go  home 
either  in  May  or  June  and  remain  three  or  four  months, 
unless  there  should  be  another  revolution,  which  is  never 
impossible  in  Mexico,  or  some  suddeu  and  serious  de- 
rangement of  the  working  plans  of  the  mission.  All  the 


80 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


probabilities,  however,  seem  to  favor  my  going  and  realiz- 
ing at  last  the  desires  of  so  many  months.  . . . 

Puebla,  March  2,  1877. 

To-day  are  to  be  held  the  state  elections  for  governor. 
There  is  great  excitement  and  a riot  has  been  feared.  But 
yesterday  about  a thousand  soldiers  came  in  and  they 
will  probably  be  sufficient  to  keep  the  peace.  I suppose 
I would  better  mention  an  event  which  occurred  about 
the  middle  of  February,  lest  you  should  see  some  exag- 
gerated account  of  it  and  be  alarmed.  The  day  was  a 
Romish  festival  and  on  the  same  day  arrived  the  tidings 
of  the  election  of  President  Diaz.  Some  men  of  the  lowest 
class  asked  permission  to  ring  the  bells  and  parade  the 
streets,  to  celebrate  the  latter  event.  The  crowd  came 
down  the  street  near  our  Mission  House,  shouting  at  the 
top  of  their  voices.  They  had  passed  the  foot  of  the  street 
and  gone  about  half  a square,  when  suddenly  they  turned 
about  and  came  pouring  into  the  street  where  our  house 
is  situated,  shouting,  “Death  to  the  Protestants!”  and 
began  a regular  bombardment  of  the  front  entrance.  A 
perfect  torrent  of  stones  flew  against  the  door  for  about 
three  minutes  when,  as  suddenly  as  they  had  come  they 
marched  off,  before  the  police  had  time  to  arrive.  For- 
tunately no  one  was  injured. 

The  government  showed  great  promptness,  sent  imme- 
diately a strong  force  of  police,  and  placed  a garrison  of 
six  men  inside  the  house,  who  remained  for  the  next 
thirty-six  hours.  Ever  since  that  time  we  have  had  a 
guard  of  two  men  day  and  night.  I cannot  attribute  the 
sudden  retreat  of  the  mob  to  any  other  cause  than  the 
interposition  of  God’s  providence  for  our  protection. 
This  is  a candid  statement  of  what  occurred.  You  see 
we  met  with  no  accidents,  and  have  reason  to  thank  God 
and  take  courage.  The  Lord  will  not  suffer  harm  to  be- 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


81 


fall  us.  Of  this  I feel  confident.  Our  congregations  have 
been  larger  since  than  before  this  event.  . . . 

Toward  the  end  of  March  he  mentions  being  in  the 
midst  of  mission  work : finishing  up  the  repairs  on  the 
exterior  of  the  mission  building,  the  work  having  been 
suspended  nearly  two  years  for  lack  of  funds.  This  and 
some  other  things  he  felt  he  must  see  finished  before  tak- 
ing his  vacation,  to  which  he  was  looking  forward  with 
longing  and  delight.  The  date  of  his  sailing  was  finally 
fixed  for  June  20. 

Regarding  political  matters  he  says : I am  frequently 
amused  at  some  of  the  grave  editorial  items  in  the  West- 
ern Christian  Advocate,  and  am  sometimes  tempted  to 
write  a little  article  on  Mexican  politics  as  I look  at  them. 
The  editor  thinks  the  present  government  is  revolutionary 
and  unconstitutional.  Revolutionary  it  certainly  is,  in 
its  origin,  but  take  any  one  administration  which  has 
existed  in  this  country,  and  you  have  to  go  back  but  a 
very  short  time  to  find  its  origin  in  a revolution.  The 
mere  fact  that  a given  form  of  government,  or  administra- 
tion of  that  government,  rose  to  power  by  way  of  revolu- 
tion is  not  necessarily  its  condemnation,  certainly  not 
when  despotism  and  incurable  abuses  made  that  revolu- 
tion necessary. 

Whether  this  last  revolution  in  Mexico  was  justifiable 
on  these  grounds  or  not,  I leave  for  other  and  wiser  heads 
to  determine.  The  majority  of  the  people  seem  to  think 
it  was.  Its  success  against  such  odds  with  regard  to 
resources,  etc.,  testifies  in  its  favor.  With  regard  to  its 
present  modes  of  procedure,  the  new  government  cer- 
tainly is  not  revolutionary.  On  the  contrary,  it  seems  to 
be  wisely  conservative  and  progressive,  with  regard  to 
all  the  truest  interests  of  society  and  the  nation.  Un- 
constitutional it  can  hardly  be  called  with  justice,  since 


82 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


its  functionaries  have  all  been  elected  in  accordance  with 
the  forms  of  law  and  the  constitution  of  1857,  and  have 
been  inducted  into  office  by  taking  the  prescribed  oaths 
of  loyalty. 

The  permanency  of  the  present  administration  is  a 
problem  which  cannot  be  prophetically  solved.  It  has 
many  elements  of  strength  and  popularity,  and  may  stand 
firm  till  its  constitutionally  prescribed  term  expires  and 
it  is  succeeded  by  another  administration  constitutionally 
elected,  or  the  public  peace  may  be  most  unexpectedly 
disturbed  by  the  malcontents,  with  whom,  to  be  out  of 
office,  is  to  be  out  of  bread.  Let  us  hope  that  peace  may 
be  prolonged ! 

The  newly  elected  Governor  of  our  State  was  inau- 
gurated last  week ! he  is  said  to  be  a very  intelligent  man 
and  favorable  to  our  cause.  I hope  to  know  him  per- 
sonally before  long.  . . . 


(To  his  Mother) 

Puebla,  May  28,  1877. 

How  strange  it  seems,  yet  how  happy  I am,  to  think 
that  the  next  steamer  instead  of  a letter  will  carry  myself 
to  you!  This  must  be  the  burden  and  almost  the  all  of 
my  letter  to  you  this  last  time.  I am  looking  forward, 
not  only  to  the  great  pleasure  of  a reunion  with  family 
and  friends,  but  also  to  great  spiritual  blessing  for  my 
own  soul  in  the  church  privileges  and  Christian  fellow- 
ship of  our  favored  land.  I must  add  one  word  more.  I 
feel  that  we  should  all  try  to  hold  ourselves  in  such  a 
frame  of  mind  that,  if  I should  be  providentially  pre- 
vented from  seeing  home  this  summer,  we  could  bend  our 
will  to  the  will  of  God,  and  say,  Thy  will  be  done.  I do 
not  at  all  anticipate  such  a result,  but  let  us  be  in  the 
will  of  the  Lord,  assured  that  he  will  do  all  things 
well.  . . . 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


83 


Happily,  he  was  able  to  carry  out  his  plans,  and  sailed 
from  Vera  Cruz  on  the  date  he  had  fixed,  June  20,  reach- 
ing his  old  home  in  Ohio  before  the  end  of  the  month. 

The  most  important  event  which  occurred  during  his 
vacation,  was  his  marriage,  which  took  place  in  the  early 
autumn. 

Soon  after  reaching  home,  while  on  a visit  to  his  uncle, 
Rev.  Fletcher  Hypes,  at  that  time  pastor  of  a small  con- 
gregation in  New  Boston,  Clermont  County,  Ohio,  he  met 
Ada  M.  Combs,  eldest  daughter  of  L)r.  John  S.  Combs, 
a prominent  physician  and  surgeon,  well  known  through- 
out southern  Ohio. 

Dr.  Combs  was  a man  of  lofty  principles,  of  great  force 
of  character,  and  of  wide  influence;  a power  for  good  in 
the  community.  He  was  intensely  patriotic,  and  during 
the  entire  Civil  War  gave  freely  and  generously  of  his 
means,  aroused  enthusiasm  in  others,  and  rendered  valu- 
able and  efficient  service  as  surgeon  of  the  153d  Regiment 
Ohio  Voluntees.  From  early  boyhood,  he  manifested  the 
most  earnest  desire  for  knowledge,  and  improved  every 
opportunity  for  study,  in  spite  of  obstacles  that  would 
have  discouraged  most  young  people.  He  attended  col- 
lege for  a time,  at  the  Ohio  Wesleyan  University,  at  Dela- 
ware, and  afterward  took  a course  in  the  Ohio  Medical 
College  of  Cincinnati,  graduating  therefrom  in  1850. 

Two  years  later  he  married  Cynthia  Frazee,  a young 
woman  of  fine  literary  taste  and  musical  ability,  and  of 
a most  lovable  nature.  She  died  within  eight  years, 
leaving  three  young  children,  the  eldest  not  yet  seven.  In 
1863  he  married  Rebecca  Gatch,  daughter  of  General 
Thomas  Gatch,  of  Milford,  Ohio,  and  granddaughter  of 
the  two  pioneers  of  Ohio  Methodism,  Philip  Gatch  and 
Francis  McCormick.  She  was  a devoted  wife,  a loving 
mother  to  his  children,  and  sympathized  with  him  in  his 
desire  to  give  them  every  possible  educational  advantage. 


84 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


After  preparatory  studies  at  home,  and  special  instruc- 
tion from  various  tutors  and  professors,  the  daughters 
were  sent  to  Delaware,  where  they  entered  the  senior 
class,  graduating  from  the  Ohio  Wesleyan  Female  College 
in  June  of  1872. 

Miss  Combs  made  many  friends  during  her  college  life, 
and  was  much  beloved.  She  was  a young  woman  of 
charming  personality,  a brilliant  conversationalist,  and 
possessed  of  a certain  inbred  dignity  and  reserve,  yet 
of  a nature  so  deeply  sympathetic  that  those  in  trouble, 
even  in  disgrace,  were  led  to  confide  in  her.  In  his  selec- 
tion of  helpmate,  Mr.  Drees  was  very  fortunate. 

They  were  married  on  September  13,  1877,  and  after 
a short  wedding  journey  to  the  principal  Eastern  cities, 
they  returned  for  a brief  stay  with  their  families  and 
sailed  in  December  for  Mexico. 

Mr.  Drees  was  greatly  cheered  and  encouraged  during 
this  absence  from  his  work,  by  the  following  letter  from 
Dr.  Butler,  giving  his  impressions  of  the  condition  of 
affairs  in  Puebla  at  that  time: 


Rev.  C.  W.  Drees,  Puebla,  August  5,  1877. 

Dear  Brother: 

I have  now  been  here  four  days  and  will  remain  three 
more.  I find  everything  in  perfect  order  and  moving  like 
clock  work.  Mr.  Luders  is  simply  invaluable.  The  chil- 
dren are  all  well  in  health.  On  Sunday  morning  the  con- 
gregation numbered,  including  the  boys,  127,  and  in  the 
evening  though  it  rained,  there  were  five  or  six  more. 
The  Sunday  school  had  (51,  and  to-day  the  day  school  31 
in  attendance.  I mention  the  numbers,  as  you  will  there- 
by better  understand  how  matters  are.  You  are  prayed 
for  constantly  in  the  congregation  and  will  be  joyously 
welcomed  home  again  by  them  all. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


85 


Brother  Luders  got  up  an  exhibition  for  us  yesterday 
evening.  We  had  music  and  speeches  from  the  boys,  all 
so  creditable  and  showing  so  much  progress.  It  does 
seem  to  me  that  four  or  five  of  those  boys  may  soon  join 
your  theological  class.  Surely  they  are  hopeful  material 
and  already  know  more  and  have  better  training  than  the 
young  men  we  can  obtain  from  the  stations.  Three  of 
them  spoke  yesterday  from  passages  of  Scripture,  such 
as,  “Come  unto  me,”  “This  is  a faithful  saying,”  and 
others,  with  so  much  good  feeling  and  earnestness  that 
I was  quite  pleased  and  encouraged.  To  us  this  improve- 
ment is  more  manifest  than  it  can  be  to  you.  We  see  it 
and  are  grateful  for  it. 

El  Abogado  is  still  going  up  in  its  subscription  list. 
It  must  be  now  about  1,150,  besides  our  free  list.  John 
tells  me  in  his  letter  of  yesterday  that  the  Vice-President 
and  Minister  of  Justice  sent  flO  the  day  before  to  pay 
for  ten  copies.  Romero  has  subscribed  before,  so  that  the 
Cabinet  of  President  Diaz  is  paying  for  11  copies  now. 
Quite  a run  of  postmasters  have  sent  for  it  of  late,  and 
some  other  officials,  including  the  Chief  of  Police  in  the 
City  of  Mexico.  Four  or  five  of  the  papers  have  lately 
copied  from  us  and  give  credit.  Altogether,  what  reason 
we  have  to  be  grateful  that  this  instrument  of  power  has 
been  commenced ! It  is  also  aiding  to  increase  the  at- 
tendance on  our  services.  John  says  he  had  140  in  the 
morning  and  135  in  the  evening  last  Sunday,  with  some 
respectable  people  also  among  them. 


Wednesday. 

Last  night  the  chapel  was  full.  We  could  not  have 
seated  six  more.  What  is  to  be  done  to  give  you  more 
room  ? Here  are  the  people  hungry  for  the  bread  of  life, 
and  if  you  had  a church  you  could  soon  fill  it  I have  no 
doubt.  O,  if  people  at  home  could  only  see  what  I saw 


86 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


last  night,  that  crowded  chapel  and  that  attentive  au- 
dience, and  such  singing,  they  would  help  you. 

Mr.  Luders  preached  so  well  from  “My  peace  I give 
unto  you.”  Didn’t  I want  to  exhort  when  he  was  done! 
I got  three  Spanish  sentences  into  shape  and  was  almost 
on  the  point  of  venturing  to  address  the  people,  but  I 
feared  I might  fail  in  my  little  exhortation,  and  was 
deterred.  I wanted  to  tell  them  how  long  I had  enjoyed 
this  “peace,”  and  what  a blessed  reality  I knew  it  to  be, 
and  then  urge  them  to  come  to  Jesus  and  have  it. 

Yours  of  July  18  is  just  in.  So  glad  to  hear  from  you. 
I must  close  as  it  is  near  mail  hour  and  it  leaves  to-night. 
Our  united  remembrances  to  all  your  family.  I remain, 
dear  brother,  Yours, 

W.  Butler. 


Note 

For  the  data  concerning  my  husband’s  parents,  his 
childhood,  and  youth,  his  college  life  (see  Appendix),  and 
his  first  years  in  Mexico,  I am  indebted  to  various  mem- 
bers of  his  family,  and  to  a few  intimate  friends.  My 
responsibility  and  part  in  the  preparation  of  this  work, 
selection  of  letters,  and  explanatory  paragraphs  where 
letters  are  missing,  begin  at  this  point.  A.  M.  C.  D. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


87 


My  husband’s  first  letter  home  was  written  from  New 
Orleans,  November  24,  1877. 

My  dear  Mother: 

Although  we  left  Cincinnati  Tuesday  evening,  we  did 
not  reach  Montgomery,  Alabama,  until  Thursday  morn- 
ing. In  the  evening  we  arrived  at  Mobile,  but  had  to  wait 
there  till  3 a.  m.  of  Friday.  Ada  and  I took  a walk 
through  the  town,  had  a good  supper  at  a hotel,  and  went 
back  to  the  train  for  the  night.  When  morning  dawned 
we  were  speeding  along  the  Gulf  shore,  for  a large  part 
of  the  way  in  full  view  of  the  water,  with  here  and  there 
a white  sail  in  the  distance.  The  country  was  very  dif- 
ferent from  the  pine  barrens  of  southern  Alabama, 
through  which  we  had  passed  the  preceding  day.  There 
were  cultivated  lands,  and  villages  following  each  other 
in  quick  succession,  and  we  saw  orange  groves  laden  with 
ripe  fruit.  Even  the  forests  and  swamps  were  full  of 
beauty;  the  trees  hung  with  gray  Spanish  moss  which, 
with  its  somber  hue,  only  made  the  scarlet-leaved  vines 
and  rich  green  cactuses  the  more  brilliant.  This  was  the 
pleasantest  part  of  our  journey. 

About  five  miles  out  of  New  Orleans,  our  train  was 
brought  to  a stand  by  a cattle  train  wrecked  on  the  track, 
just  in  advance  of  us.  We  had  to  leave  our  car,  walk 
past  the  wreck  and  take  another  train  sent  out  to  our 
relief.  We  finally  reached  here  at  ten  o’clock  this  morn- 
ing, three  nights  and  two  and  a half  days  from  Cincin- 
nati! I have  purchased  our  tickets  and  all  is  ready  for 
us  to  go  on  board  early  Sunday  morning.  The  steamer 
is  the  City  of  Merida,  the  one  I came  home  on,  but  she 
has  been  remodeled  and  is  much  more  comfortable. 

We  are  to  dine  to-night  with  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Richardson, 
whom  I met  and  traveled  with  two  years  ago  in  Mexico. 
He  is  president  of  the  American  Medical  Association,  the 
next  session  of  which  is  to  be  held  in  Buffalo,  next  June. 


88 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


He  is  an  earnest  Christian  man,  and  much  interested  in 
Mexico  and  our  work  there.  . . . 

A parting  message  of  affection  and  good  cheer  from  us 
both,  went  back  by  the  pilot,  and  then  we  fared  forth  to 
the  unknown  future. 

Dear  Mother:  Orizaba,  December  2,  1877. 

I may  as  well  continue  the  chronicle  of  our  journey 
where  I left  off  in  my  last  letter.  We  sailed  at  eight 
o’clock,  Sunday  morning,  and  with  delightful  weather 
and  the  quiet  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  we  had  a most 
pleasant  day  until  we  crossed  the  bar,  about  four  in  the 
afternoon.  Almost  immediately  after  that  we  began  to 
feel,  in  an  uncomfortable  degree,  the  swell  of  the  ocean, 
and  entered  into  profoundest  sympathy  with  the  lieav- 
ings  of  the  restless  deep  as  it  was  lashed  to  fury  by  the 
winds.  Over  our  experiences  of  the  next  few  hours,  we 
will  draw  a veil ! Suffice  it  to  say  there  were  some  mo- 
ments of  mirth  as  well  as  dejection.  The  gale  in  which 
we  started,  died  away  at  last,  and  we  got  on  very  com- 
fortably until  Wednesday  morning,  a few  hours  before 
we  should  have  reached  our  first  port,  when  a “Norther” 
blew  up,  so  that  when  we  did  get  to  the  usual  anchorage 
ground  the  sea  was  running  so  high  that  no  boat  could 
come  off  to  us.  So,  as  the  storm  increased,  the  ship  was 
put  before  it  and  we  ran  about  sixty  miles  southward. 
The  sea  then  began  to  break  over  the  stern  so  violently 
that  nothing  could  be  done  but  put  the  ship  about  and 
steam  to  the  northward,  in  the  teeth  of  the  wind.  All 
day  and  night  we  were  tossed  about,  hardly  knowing 
whether  we  were  in  danger  or  not. 

Thursday  dawned  with  a quieter  sea,  but  it  was  still 
impossible  to  communicate  with  the  shore  at  Tampico, 
so  we  steamed  southward  and  anchored  off  Tuxpan. 
Here  we  waited  till  the  next  night,  but  as  it  was  still  im- 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


89 


possible  to  communicate  with  that  port,  we  went  on  to 
Vera  Cruz,  arriving  early  Saturday  morning.  After 
several  hours  of  conflicting  hopes  and  fears,  we  at  last 
came  to  anchor  in  the  harbor  and  were  soon  on  shore. 
Got  our  boxes  and  trunks  through  the  Custom  House 
without  any  trouble,  and  started  them  off  to  Puebla.  As 
we  could  not  reach  there  without  traveling  on  Sunday, 
and  as  it  did  not  seem  prudent  to  stay  in  Vera  Cruz,  we 
took  the  night  train  to  this  city,  where  we  shall  stay  till 
Monday  morning.  . . . 

On  our  arrival  in  Puebla  that  Monday  afternoon,  we 
were  met  at  the  station  by  a kind  old  Mexican  gentleman, 
who  had  known  my  husband  in  his  bachelor  days.  He 
had  a fine  carriage  and  beautiful  horses,  and  escorted 
us  with  great  ceremony  to  the  Mission  House,  welcoming 
me  with  much  cordiality  to  his  native  land,  and  making- 
many  polite  remains,  which  had  to  be  interpreted  into 
English  for  my  benefit.  He  was  very  dark,  and  foreign 
in  his  appearance  as  well  as  his  manners ; and  the  throng 
of  children  who  met  us  at  the  entrance,  were  so  unlike 
any  I had  ever  seen  before,  that  I felt  as  though  we  were 
in  another  world.  The  enormous  old  chocolate-colored 
housekeeper,  with  antique  hoop  earrings  and  trailing 
gown,  was  equally  foreign  in  appearance,  but,  to  my  sur- 
prise, spoke  English,  as  did  also  the  German  professor 
who  had  been  in  charge  of  my  husband’s  work  during  his 
absence. 

The  building  in  which  were  our  apartments,  was  a 
large,  handsome  stone  edifice  of  two  stories;  the  chapel, 
the  professor’s  rooms,  and  ours  on  the  second  floor,  and 
the  schoolrooms,  dormitories,  and  servants  quarters  on 
the  ground  floor.  All  these  rooms  were  large  and  spa- 
cious, with  very  thick  walls  and  very  high  ceilings.  A 
long,  wide  corridor,  with  massive  stone  pillars  elabo- 


90 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


rately  carved,  was  inclosed  by  iron  railings,  and  extended 
the  entire  length  of  the  building,  all  the  rooms  opening 
on  to  it.  In  the  courtyard  below  was  a large  stone  basin, 
with  a fountain  in  the  center,  and  there  were  beautiful 
dowering  vines  growing  luxuriantly,  and  reaching  to  the 
top  of  the  house.  A peculiar  old  spiral  stone  stairway 
led  to  the  dat  roof,  from  which  there  was  a magnidcent 
view  of  the  valley  and  mountain  beyond. 

As  I recall  that  drst  day,  this  is  what  stands  out  most 
clearly  in  my  memory,  along  with  our  drst  dinner,  in 
company  with  the  imposing  housekeeper  and  the  German 
professor.  Between  the  strangeness  of  it  all,  the  unfa- 
miliar food,  and  the  homesickness  that  I was  struggling 
against,  it  was  not  really  a very  happy  affair,  but  I recall 
with  some  degree  of  satisfaction  that  we  kept  up  a sem- 
blance of  gayety  bedtting  the  occasion,  and  afterward 
spent  a pleasant  hour  in  the  chapel,  hearing  the  boys  sing. 
There  was  drst  a very  pretty  song  of  welcome,  composed 
especially  in  honor  of  our  arrival,  and  then  various  other 
selections,  all  arranged  by  the  German  professor,  who 
was  a due  musician  and  a very  versatile  man. 

We  spent  the  drst  few  days  arranging  our  house,  which 
was  a very  unique  one,  the  parlor  having  once  been  a 
chapel  with  a domed  ceiling,  forty  feet  high,  octagonal 
in  shape  with  a window  in  each  side.  In  one  end  of  the 
room  there  was  a wide,  deep  niche  or  recess  where  in  the 
time  of  the  Inquisition  a famous  statue  of  the  Virgin 
stood.  This  place,  now  divested  of  all  ornaments,  we 
dlled  with  plants,  and  draped  above  them  our  American 
dag  and  made  it  look  as  much  as  possible  like  a little 
piece  of  home.  With  a large  rug  we  had  brought  with 
us,  a few  etchings,  engravings,  and  photographs,  some 
curious  old  inlaid  Mexican  book  cases,  and  the  necessary 
tables  and  chairs,  we  soon  began  to  feel  quite  settled  and 
comfortable. 


CHAPTER  V 


(To  his  Mother) 

Puebla,  January  14,  1878. 

Well,  we  have  been  here  nearly  six  weeks.  On  our 
arrival  I found  my  work  in  as  favorable  a condition  as 
I could  have  desired.  The  congregations  were  well  at- 
tended, and  the  interest  of  the  people  had  been  well  sus- 
tained. The  first  Sunday  evening  of  the  new  year  we 
celebrated  the  Lord’s  Supper.  The  chapel  was  crowded 
to  its  utmost  capacity,  and  there  were  over  a hundred 
communicants.  It  was  a very  precious  season,  marked 
by  great  solemnity  and  reverence  even  on  the  part  of  some 
who  came  out  of  mere  curiosity  or  to  make  light  of  holy 
things.  On  the  same  occasion  I received  into  full  con- 
nection in  our  church  twenty-three  persons.  All  of  these 
have  fulfilled  their  six  months’  probation,  and  seem  every 
way  worthy  of  church  membership.  I also  baptized  a 
little  Indian  baby  the  same  evening. 

New  Year’s  eve  we  held  Watch  Night  meeting.  It  was 
very  interesting  and  largely  attended,  at  least  a hun- 
dred and  fifty  persons  remaining  till  after  midnight.  We 
have  also  observed  the  Week  of  Prayer,  holding  public 
service  every  night  of  the  past  week.  All  the  meetings 
have  been  well  attended.  Other  interests  of  our  work  are 
in  equally  good  condition.  The  subscription  list  for  our 
Mexican  Christian  Advocate  is  over  a hundred  and  sixty 
for  this  station  only.  Our  society  here  is  now  taking  its 
first  steps  toward  self-support.  I have  organized  a Board 

91 


92 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


of  Stewards,  and  we  are  henceforth  to  make  up  a monthly 
collection  for  running  expenses.  The  first  collection 
realized  $7.67.  It  seems  little,  but  the  willingness  with 
which  the  great  majority  have  entered  into  the  project, 
promises  well  for  the  future. 

We  are  informed  of  the  arrival  of  Bishop  Merrill  and  Dr. 
Dashiell,  and  two  other  gentlemen  in  company  with  them, 
in  Vera  Cruz.  They  spent  yesterday  and  to-day  in  Ori- 
zaba, and  will  probably  arrive  here  to  morrow  afternoon. 
If  Dr.  Butler  is  well  enough,  he  will  accompany  the 
bishop  to  Guanajuato.  If  not  I am  to  go  as  the  repre- 
sentative of  the  superintendent. 

Our  annual  meeting  will  be  held  from  the  8th  to  the 
12th  of  February,  according  to  present  arrangement.  All 
the  missionaries  will  attend,  and  also  all  my  theological 
class,  who  are  to  be  examined  for  admission  on  trial.  I 
am  very  desirous  they  should  appear  well,  and  I believe 
they  will. 

Things  are  very  quiet  here.  Rumors  of  new  troubles, 
if  such  there  be,  are  nothing  but  mere  whispers  from 
persons  so  infected  with  the  belief  in  Mexico’s  chronic 
passion  for  revolution,  that  they  cannot  conceive  of  her 
remaining  long  at  peace,  even  under  the  most  favorable 
circumstances.  . . . 

The  first  event  of  importance  after  our  arrival  in 
Puebla,  was  the  visit  of  Bishop  Merrill,  Dr.  Dashiell,  and 
his  son  and  Mr.  Price,  of  Philadelphia.  The  bishop  was 
our  first  guest,  and  how  much  it  meant  to  us  to  have  him 
with  us,  even  those  few  brief  days,  to  be  convinced  of  his 
interest  in  our  work,  and  of  his  fatherly  sympathy  for  us 
personally,  cannot  be  expressed  here.  It  was  the  begin- 
ning of  a friendship  and  affectionate  regard  that  never 
varied  through  all  the  years  that  he  was  spared  to  us, 
and  to  the  church  he  served  so  well. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


93 


Orizaba,  February  26,  1878. 

Dear  Father  : 

The  last  six  weeks  have  been  among  the  very  busiest  I 
have  ever  passed!  On  Wednesday,  the  6th,  we  went  to 
Mexico  for  the  Annual  Meeting.  I was  made  secretary, 
and  so  was  busy  night  and  day  till  the  meeting  adjourned 
on  Friday,  the  15th.  The  following  Monday  we  returned 
to  Puebla,  and  on  Friday  came  to  Orizaba ; I on  business 
connected  with  the  mission,  Ada  accompanying  me  to 
say  good-by  to  the  bishop  and  his  party.  They  left  yester- 
day for  Vera  Cruz,  but  I am  still  detained  here  with  Dr. 
Butler,  at  Bishop  Merrill’s  suggestion,  to  attend  to  the 
renting  of  a new  mission  house,  and  fitting  it  up  for 
occupancy. 

Yrou  will  be  glad  to  know  that  the  Annual  Meeting 
brought  out  the  fact  of  the  great  success  of  our  mission 
in  almost  every  place.  Its  only  serious  embarrassments 
are  of  a financial  character.  lrou  will  also  be  interested 
to  hear  that  my  theological  class  was  ready  to  be  ex- 
amined, and  was  sent  out  into  active  work.  It  was  de- 
cided, however,  not  to  reopen  the  theological  department 
again  until  next  January,  owing  to  the  heavy  debt  resting 
on  the  Mission,  and  the  absolute  necessity  of  reducing 
expenditures  and  avoiding  new  outlay. 

We  greatly  enjoyed  the  visit  of  Bishop  Merrill  and  Dr. 
Dashiell,  and  Brother  Price  to  Puebla,  as  well  as  in  Mexico 
City,  and  this  place,  and  felt  very  lonely  yesterday  when 
they  were  gone.  . . . 


Puebla,  April  6,  1878. 

Dear  Mother: 

Since  I wrote  you  last  we  have  two  new  boarding  pupils 
in  our  orphanage.  They  are  from  San  Pablo  del  Monte, 
and  their  father  is  Alcalde  or  Mayor  in  that  town,  which 
is  a large  Indian  village  about  six  miles  from  here.  This 


94 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


man  heard  something  about  Protestantism,  and  on  con- 
versing with  acquaintances  about  it,  became  so  interested 
that  onty  a fuller  knowledge  would  satisfy  him.  He  then 
came  to  see  me  and  begged  so  earnestly  that  I receive  his 
two  boys,  that  I at  last  agreed  to  do  so,  on  condition  that 
he  would  pay  their  board.  So  here  they  have  been  for 
three  weeks.  One  is  a little  fellow  four  years  old,  who 
could  not  speak  a word  of  Spanish  when  he  came,  know- 
ing only  his  native  Indian  tongue.  Already,  however, 
he  begins  to  speak  and  is  learning  rapidly.  His  brother 
is  about  sixteen  years  old,  and  both  are  interesting  boys. 
Meantime  their  father  has  been  making  a great  commo- 
tion in  his  town,  and  thinks  they  will  soon  be  ready  for 
the  establishment  of  a congregation. 

Politically  all  is  quiet  here  at  present,  though  there  are 
some  rumors  of  new  revolts  in  various  places.  The  Gov- 
ernor of  this  State  is  now  sending  three  of  his  boys  to 
our  day  school.  . . . 


(To  his  Parents) 

Puebla,  May  1,  1878. 

Our  work  goes  onward  nicely.  During  Holy  Week  we 
had  very  large  congregations.  Also  held  some  extra 
services.  On  Easter  Sunday  in  the  evening  we  celebrated 
the  communion.  Over  two  hundred  people  were  present, 
and  more  than  a hundred  partook  of  the  sacrament.  One 
feature  of  interest  was  the  presence  of  forty  Indians  from 
Los  Reyes,  over  thirty  miles  distant,  who  came  on  foot 
Saturday  to  spend  the  Lord’s  Day  in  our  services.  One 
of  their  families  presented  an  infant  child  for  baptism. 

Three  weeks  ago  I went  to  Apizaco,  the  junction  of  the 
railroad  from  here  with  the  main  line  from  Vera  Cruz 
to  Mexico  City.  I had  received  repeated  solicitations 
from  Protestants  there  to  establish  a congregation  among 
them.  I reached  there  Wednesday  afternoon,  and  the 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


95 


same  evening  met  with  about  thirty  persons.  I explained 
to  them  how  they  could  take  the  initiative,  and  they  at 
once  named  a committee  to  circulate  a subscription.  A 
place  of  meeting  was  secured,  and  it  was  settled  that  as 
soon  as  the  necessary  amount  of  subscriptions  were 
pledged,  and  the  proper  authorization  obtained  from  the 
civil  authorities,  services  should  be  opened.  I returned 
here  next  day,  leaving  it  to  the  committee  to  do  its  work. 
A few  days  after  I was  informed  that  the  amount  of 
about  $20  a month  had  been  subscribed  by  the  people 
there.  I hope  that  within  two  or  three  weeks  we  may 
hold  our  first  service  in  that  place. 

I must  give  you  here  a little  account  of  my  last  and 
most  interesting  trip.  I have  known  for  some  time  of 
the  existence  of  a Protestant  society  in  the  village  of 
Atzala,  about  seventy  miles  from  here.  I knew  that  they 
were  without  a preacher,  the  only  one  who  had  ever 
visited  them  having  been  stoned  and  driven  out  of  the 
region  less  than  a year  ago.  A representative  from 
among  them  came  repeatedly  to  see  me,  brought  me  finally 
a list  of  the  congregation  amounting  to  over  a hundred 
persons,  with  so  urgent  a petition  for  a visit  from  me 
that  I finally  determined  to  go.  So  last  Saturday  I 
started,  having  first  armed  myself  with  a letter  from  the 
Governor  of  the  State  to  the  local  authorities.  I took 
the  diligence  at  6 a.  m.,  and  after  an  all  day  ride  down 
the  mountains  through  the  most  picturesque  scenery, 
reached  Matamoras  Izucar  at  6 p.  m.  The  roads  were 
terribly  rough,  the  day  sultry,  and  my  bones  ached  from 
the  jolting.  It  was  impossible  to  get  farther  that  night, 
so  I put  up  at  the  excuse  for  an  hotel  which  the  place 
affords.  That  night  horses  and  a guide  were  secured  for 
the  next  day. 

At  six  o’clock  Sunday  morning  we  were  on  our  way. 
I was  mounted  on  a not  very  easygoing  horse,  and  the 


9G 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


guide,  well  mounted  and  armed,  led  the  way.  Going  at 
a moderate  pace  we  reached  Atzala,  nine  miles  distant, 
before  nine  o’clock.  News  was  at  once  sent  to  the  mem- 
bers of  the  little  congregation  and  meeting  was  appointed 
for  three  o’clock.  After  resting  for  a short  time  we  rode 
on  three  miles  farther  to  the  town  of  Cliietla,  where  the 
local  authorities  reside.  This  was  necessary  in  order  to 
inform  these  authorities  of  our  presence,  and  ask  pro- 
tection for  our  service.  The  mayor  is  a fanatical  old 
Romanist,  but  professed  his  readiness  to  keep  the  peace, 
and  said  if  any  disturbance  occurred  to  let  him  know 
immediately.  Of  course  if  anything  had  occurred,  his 
assistance  would  have  arrived  too  late.  Back  to  Atzala 
we  rode,  through  the  broiling  midday  sun.  I was  regaled 
with  a real  Indian  dinner,  eaten  without  knife  or  fork. 

Three  o’clock  came,  and  we  went  to  the  place  of  meet- 
ing, a thatched  hut  of  sun-dried  bricks,  about  ten  by 
twenty  feet  in  size.  A good  many  people  were  already 
there  and,  by  the  time  service  actually  began,  more  than 
seventy  persons  were  crowded  into  the  room  and  about 
the  door.  As  there  was  no  window  and  no  ventilation 
save  by  this  door,  which  was  low  and  crowded  with  peo- 
ple, you  may  imagine  the  boiling  heat  which  we  suffered. 
But  after  all  the  interest  of  the  occasion  was  more  than 
a recompense  for  all  its  discomforts.  There  were  the 
swarthy  Indian  men,  seated  on  rude  benches,  crowded 
up  close  around  me  and  the  rough  table  that  served  as 
desk.  Farther  away  were  the  women  and  children,  sit- 
ting on  the  earthen  floor  on  straw  mats.  All  were  in  their 
peculiar  costumes,  and  all  paid  the  deepest  attention. 
As  a new  comer  would  enter,  all  would  salute  him  and  he 
them,  in  their  own  Indian  language,  perfectly  unintelli- 
gible to  me. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  service  I baptized  three  in- 
fants, after  which  I preached  as  simply  and  as  earnestly 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


97 


as  I could  from  John  3. 16.  The  perspiration  poured  from 
me  in  streams,  but  I had  a good  time  and  as  attentive  an 
auditory  as  I have  ever  seen  in  my  life.  After  the  preach- 
ing one  of  the  men  addressed  me  most  affectionately  and 
gratefully,  and  throwing  his  arms  about  me  gave  me  a 
hearty  embrace.  Then  all  around  I went,  embracing  the 
men  and  shaking  hands  with  the  women.  When  the  last 
farewell  had  been  spoken  I mounted  and  with  my  guide 
started  on  my  return  ride  to  Matamoros,  as  it  did  not 
seem  prudent  to  remain  longer.  I did  not  know  but  an 
ambush  awaited  me  at  the  outskirts  of  the  village,  and 
the  same  fear  seemed  to  be  in  the  mind  of  the  brethren, 
for  four  of  them  armed,  mounted  their  mustangs  and 
came  with  me  three  miles  on  the  homeward  journey. 

I reached  Matamoros  at  seven  o’clock  in  the  evening, 
having  ridden  twenty-four  miles  in  the  saddle,  under  a 
tropical  sun.  As  I am  almost  utterly  unused  to  riding, 
it  is  hardly  to  be  wondered  at  that  I crawled  from  the 
saddle  to  my  room  like  a confirmed  cripple.  I was  up 
next  morning,  however,  before  four  o’clock,  at  which 
time  I took  the  stage  for  Puebla.  Every  jolt  was  almost 
agony,  but  at  last  at  half  past  five  in  the  afternoon  I 
reached  home  and  rest.  I had  traveled  a hundred  and 
twenty  miles  by  stage  and  twenty-four  on  horseback, 
baptized  three  children,  and  preached  in  these  three  days. 
I am  not  over  the  effects  of  it  yet,  but  it  paid,  and  I would 
start  again  next  Saturday  to  repeat  it  if  the  work  de- 
manded it.  . . . 


May  23. 

Since  recovering  from  a slight  attack  of  intermittent 
fever,  which  I seem  to  have  contracted  during  my  visit  to 
Atzala,  I have  been  in  usual  health.  Last  Monday  I went 
to  Apizaco  and  made  definite  arrangements  for  commenc- 
ing services  there  next  Sunday.  Tuesday  I was  in  Tlax- 


98 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


cala  to  secure  the  necessary  authorization  from  the  State 
government.  Here  in  Puebla  our  work  is  going  forward 
well,  though  it  seemed  likely,  for  a time,  that  it  would 
be  somewhat  seriously  interfered  with.  This  was  owing 
to  the  arrival  of  an  emissary  from  a sister  church,  who 
began  visiting  among  my  people,  circulating  a petition 
and  endeavoring  to  draw  them  away  from  us.  When  I 
had  reliable  information  of  the  course  he  was  pursuing, 
I gave  a short  address  to  our  congregation,  which  opened 
the  eyes  of  those  who  had  signed  the  petition,  and  showed 
them  the  impossibility,  which  they  had  but  dimly  under- 
stood before,  of  belonging  at  the  same  time  to  two 
churches.  I told  them  if  they  wished  to  leave  us,  I would 
gladly  give  them  letters  of  dismissal,  but  when  they  saw 
they  must  choose,  there  was  a strong  reaction,  and  I have 
now  little  fear  that  any  noticeable  impression  will  be 
made  on  our  congregation  when  their  services  are  form- 
ally opened. 

The  same  person  went  to  Los  Reyes,  to  try  to  draw  away 
the  Indian  villages  from  us.  Whether  he  has  been  suc- 
cessful or  not  remains  to  be  seen.  He  has  returned  to 
Mexico  City  with  the  announced  intention  of  beginning 
work  here  next  month. 

There  is  room  enough  in  this  field  without  one  church 
interfering  with  another,  so  let  him  come,  if  willing  to 
work  in  the  right  spirit.  Meantime,  to-night,  a number 
of  Indians  from  the  very  village  this  person  visited  last 
Sunday,  are  to  be  here  for  the  celebration  of  a marriage 
and  the  baptism  of  a child. 

We  have  had  the  windows  of  our  church  stoned  a little 
of  late,  but  nothing  serious  has  happened.  The  heat  is 
very  extreme  here  just  now,  and  we  are  longing  for  the 
rainy  season  to  set  in.  . . . 

Dr.  Butler  has  resigned  the  superintendency  of  this 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


99 


mission,  on  the  ground  of  continued  ill  health.  From 
the  tone  of  his  last  letter  to  me  it  seems  to  be  his  inten- 
tion to  return  to  the  United  States  in  January  at  the 
latest,  if  his  health  does  not  require  it  sooner.  I have  no 
hint  as  to  what  will  be  done  to  supply  his  place.  That  is  a 
matter  for  future  adjustment. 

Brother  John  Butler  has  been  appointed  treasurer  of 
the  mission.  . . . 


Puebla,  July  8,  1878. 

Since  I last  wrote  you  I have  made  another  trip  to 
Apizaco  and  found  the  interest  and  enthusiasm  of  the 
people  there  unabated.  We  have  removed  the  services 
to  a larger  place,  provided  by  one  of  the  members  of  the 
congregation  and  at  less  than  half  the  rent  we  were 
paying. 

The  work  there  is  very  interesting  and  prosperous  in 
We  have  made  a trip  to  Los  Reyes,  Ada  and  I,  and  as 
she  is  writing  about  it  I need  not  duplicate  the  story, 
most  regards.  One  of  our  congregations  numbered  over 
a hundred  and  forty.  The  interest  is  spreading  to  other 
villages,  and  there  will  one  day  be  a large  circuit  in  that 
valley. 


(From  my  letter  home) 

I must  have  written  you  that  some  time  ago  about 
forty  people,  including  several  women,  came  from  an 
Indian  village  and  spent  Sunday  here.  They  brought 
their  own  food,  and  most  of  the  time  when  services  were 
not  going  on,  went  wandering  about  the  streets,  looking 
at  everything  with  great  interest  and  curiosity.  They 
were  very  anxious  for  some  one  to  be  sent  to  hold  some 
special  services  and  organize  a church  there,  and  C.  finally 
decided  to  go  himself.  The  women  of  the  party  urged  me 
with  great  insistence  to  go  with  him,  and  I was  very 


100 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


anxious  to  do  so.  I must  admit  that  C.  did  not  urge  me 
to  go — on  the  contrary — but  I was  so  enthusiastic  about 
it,  and  so  pleased  at  the  thought  of  a visit  to  a real  Indian 
village,  that  he  did  not  oppose  it,  and  I went ! It  proved 
a real  experience  to  me. 

I did  not  know  of  the  disastrous  effects  of  starting  on 
a journey  after  a fast  of  ten  or  twelve  hours  and,  having 
no  appetite  at  five  o’clock  in  the  morning,  I dispensed 
with  breakfast.  We  had  to  go  by  diligence,  an  old  style 
Concord  stage-coach,  swung  on  wide  leather  bands,  which 
gave  it  a double  motion,  so  to  speak,  lateral  as  well  as 
longitudinal. 

All  went  well  for  a short  time,  but  after  a few  miles 
my  troubles  began  and  continued.  C.  was  engaged  in  an 
animated  conversation  in  Spanish  with  a fellow  traveler, 
but  did  turn  to  me  every  few  minutes  and  ask  how  I was 
getting  on.  As  he  had  not  favored  my  coming,  I was 
loth  to  make  any  complaints,  and  for  some  time  answered 
as  cheerfully  as  possible,  but  at  last  my  anguish  became 
such  that  when  he  next  inquired  as  to  my  welfare,  I said 
I was  so  wretched  that  if  he  would  only  stop  the  diligence 
and  let  me  out,  I would  lie  down  at  the  side  of  the  road 
and  wait  till  he  came  back  Monday  morning!  As  this 
suggestion  did  not  meet  with  approval,  I finally  con- 
sented to  try  and  endure  my  ills  until  we  should  reach 
the  end  of  the  first  stage  of  our  journey,  a small  village 
not  much  farther  on.  Here  we  found  some  fresh  fruit, 
and  rested  for  a few  moments,  which  quite  restored  me, 
and  I had  no  further  trouble.  When  we  reached  Los 
Reyes,  about  noon,  we  were  met  by  a number  of  the  lead- 
ing men  of  the  village,  and  escorted  with  much  ceremony 
to  the  principal  house  of  the  town,  where  we  were  en- 
tertained. 

This  house  consisted  of  one  large  room,  which  had  no 
window  and  but  one  door.  The  floor  was  of  earth,  and 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


101 


the  only  furniture  was  a table,  a few  chairs,  and  some 
logs  of  wood  which  served  the  purpose  of  chairs.  The 
table  appointments  were  in  keeping  with  the  rest  of  the 
house,  and  were  unique.  In  the  evening  a service  was 
held  in  the  same  room  and  it  was  crowded  to  suffocation. 
When  that  came  to  a close  and  the  last  of  the  audience 
had  departed,  the  lady  of  the  house  and  her  daughter 
brought  in  some  doubtful  looking  bed  linen  and  blankets, 
a straw  mat,  and  two  articles  intended  for  pillows,  but 
resembling  more  in  weight  and  appearance  a pair  of  sand 
bags.  These  they  arranged  with  great  care  in  one  corner 
of  the  room,  and  then  gravely  announced  to  us  that  our 
bed  was  ready,  and  we  could  retire  whenever  we  desired 
to  do  so.  After  delaying  a little  for  the  family  to  retire, 
and  finding  they  made  no  move  in  that  direction,  we 
finally  said  good  night  and  withdrew  to  our  corner,  where 
we  made  such  preparations  as  were  possible  under  the 
circumstances. 

I had  my  long  loose  traveling  coat,  and  it  occurred 
to  me  to  use  that  instead  of  my  usual  night  costume, 
so  putting  it  around  my  shoulders,  I unfastened  my  dress 
and  skirt  and  let  them  fall  to  the  floor,  slipping  out  of 
them  as  best  I could.  The  family  sat  in  open-mouthed 
wonder  and  admiration  during  this  process,  and  no  doubt 
thought  this  was  the  white  woman’s  usual  method  of 
disrobing. 

C.  divested  himself  of  his  coat  and  shoes,  and  then  we 
retired.  Once  we  were  disposed  of  the  family  blew  out 
their  candles  and  also  retired,  at  the  other  end  of  the 
room,  but  without  the  trouble  of  disrobing.  Incredible 
as  it  may  seem,  we  slept,  at  least  part  of  the  night.  The 
next  day  we  had  a series  of  services  occupying  most  of 
the  time,  and  remained  another  night.  I assure  you  that 
when  we  reached  home  again  our  house  seemed  almost 
palatial  and  our  belongings  luxurious.  . . . 


102 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


(To  his  mother) 

Puebla,  August  17,  1878. 

Ada  and  I have  been  for  two  weeks  in  Mexico  City. 
I had  to  go  to  do  some  work  in  connection  with  the  publi- 
cation of  two  books  for  our  Mission  Press,  and  was  kept 
busy  day  and  night,  besides  preaching  ten  times.  Still, 
we  had  a plesant  visit  and  met  a great  many  English  and 
American  friends. 

We  made  the  acquaintance  of  Miss  Swaney,  who  has 
lately  arrived  under  appointment  by  the  Woman’s  For- 
eign Missionary  Society.  We  both  liked  her  exceedingly. 
She  is  not  very  old,  is  cultivated  and  devotedly  pious, 
and  at  the  same  time  sociable  and  pleasant.  I think  she 
is  very  well  fitted  for  the  position  she  holds  at  the  head 
of  the  school  in  Mexico  City. 

She  was  in  Chile  several  years,  where  her  father  was  a 
missionary  of  the  American  and  Foreign  Christian  Union, 
and  lately  has  taught  Latin  and  mathematics  in  Mrs. 
Somer’s  school  for  young  ladies  in  Washington.  . . . 

(To  Dr.  Combs) 

Puebla,  September  28,  1878. 

Dear  Father: 

Your  last  letter  came  nearly  three  months  ago,  so  I 
have  suffered  an  unusual  length  of  time  to  pass  without 
answering.  This  is  not  due  to  any  lack  of  remembrance 
nor  of  good  intention  on  my  part,  but  to  the  number  and 
pressing  nature  of  my  occupations.  I preach  three  or 
four  times  a week,  teach  several  classes,  have  the  care 
of  the  different  branches  of  our  work  here  and  enough 
literary  drudgery,  in  the  way  of  correcting  manuscript 
translations,  to  fill  up  all  the  spare  hours.  So  my  cor- 
respondence suffers. 

Lately  our  work  has  been  meeting  with  renewed  and 
fierce  opposition.  This  has  taken  the  form  of  attacks 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


103 


through  the  Romish  press  of  this  city,  coming  chiefly  from 
a miserable  little  sheet  called  El  Amigo  de  la  Yerdad — 
The  Friend  of  Truth.  Its  articles  are  full  of  the  most 
scurrilous  abuse  of  the  Protestant  ministers  and  people. 
Our  members  are  charged  with  being  the  lowest  class  of 
disreputable  people;  are  said  to  have  been  bought  with 
Yankee  gold.  Good  Catholics  are  exhorted  to  have  noth- 
ing to  do  with  Protestants,  to  turn  them  out  of  employ- 
ment, to  avoid  patronizing  them  in  any  way,  in  trade  or 
commerce,  in  a word  to  treat  them  as  excommunicated 
and  condemned  heretics.  In  a paper  that  came  out  this 
morning,  I am  honored  with  the  title  of  Obispo  (Bishop) 
and  my  wife  with  that  of  Obispa  (Bishop-ess) — quite  a 
distinguished  pair  of  missionaries. 

We,  that  is  preachers  and  people,  are  made  the  objects 
of  continual  threats.  In  order  to  point  out  to  a mob  the 
objects  of  their  hatred,  the  same  paper  has  begun  to  pub- 
lish the  names  of  Protestants.  In  the  midst  of  all  this 
and  more,  our  people  stand  firm,  almost  without  excep- 
tion. We  take  all  possible  precautions  and  trust  in  God. 
The  government  is  friendly  and  disposed  to  do  all  that  is 
necessary  for  our  protection. 

There  has  been  much  talk  here  lately  of  a war  with  the 
United  States,  and  it  is  amusing  to  hear  some  of  the 
people  talk  of  it.  One  gentleman  said  to  me  the  other 
day : “Of  course  we  will  as  Mexican  patriots  all  have  to 
go  to  the  war,  but  with  no  other  prospect  than  that  of 
certain  death,  for  we  are  sure  to  be  beaten  in  a war  with 
the  United  States.” 

People  in  general  in  this  country  have  a very  whole- 
some respect  for  our  national  resources  and  prowess.  I 
am  glad  for  my  own  part  to  believe  there  is  no  real  proba- 
bility of  war  between  the  two  countries. 

The  year  is  hurrying  on  to  its  close  and  our  Annual 
Meeting  will  soon  be  here.  We  have,  as  yet,  no  informa- 


104 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


tion  as  to  who  is  to  be  our  superintendent  next  year, 
though  it  seems  likely  some  one  will  be  sent  out  from  the 
United  States. 

This  is  Ada’s  birthday,  but  we  are  passing  it  very 
quietly.  We  have  passed  the  first  anniversary  of  our  mar- 
riage, and  I may  surely  be  excused  for  saying  to  you,  her 
father,  that  my  brightest  and  best  hopes  are  realized  in 
my  wife.  We  remember  all  the  birthdays  of  our  dear 
ones  at  home,  and  scarcely  a day  passes  but  we  are  at 
home  again  in  spirit.  . . . 

(To  his  Father) 

Puebla,  October  21,  1878. 

There  has  lately  been  more  than  usual  excitement 
against  the  Protestants  in  this  city  and  State.  There 
seems  to  be  a general  organized  effort  on  the  part  of  the 
priests  to  rekindle  the  flames  of  fanaticism.  The  result 
is  that  every  week  brings  fresh  tirades  of  abuse  and  in- 
sult from  the  published  attacks  of  our  enemies,  and  the 
preaching  of  the  priests.  We  hear  a great  many  threats, 
and  the  danger  sometimes  seems  imminent.  But  the 
government  is  disposed  to  protect  us,  and  above  all,  our 
trust  is  in  God  who  is  able  to  make  the  wrath  of  man 
to  praise  him,  and  to  restrain  the  remainder  of  wrath. 
Our  congregations  keep  up  well,  and  on  the  whole  our 
work  is  such  as  to  cause  devout  thanksgiving  to  God.  . . . 

November  3. 

The  latest  event  of  interest  in  our  Mission  is  the  return 
of  Brother  John  Butler,  accompanied  by  his  wife,  Brother 
and  Sister  Barker,  who  are  appointed  to  Pachuea,  and 
Miss  Clara  Mulliner,  of  Camden,  New  Jersey,  sent  out 
by  the  Woman’s  Foreign  Missionary  Society  to  the  Girls’ 
Orphanage  in  Mexico  City. 

Since  I last  wrote  another  has  been  added  to  the  list 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


105 


of  crimes  like  that  of  Atzala.  Two  weeks  ago  the  judge 
of  a small  Indian  town  six  miles  from  here  was  brutally 
murdered.  He  was  the  father  of  the  two  Indian  boys 
whom  we  had  in  our  school,  whom  we  have  mentioned 
before.  We  are  not  fully  informed  of  the  circumstances, 
but  it  is  probable  the  man  was  killed  on  account  of  his 
Protestantism.  Two  days  after  his  death  the  mother 
came  and  took  the  boys  away.  We  were  greatly  dis- 
tressed, both  for  the  sake  of  his  family  and  for  the  cause 
of  Protestantism,  and  were  very  sorry  to  lose  the  boys, 
who  were  getting  along  well  in  their  studies. 

For  two  or  three  weeks  there  have  been  constant  rumors 
that  an  attack  was  to  be  attempted  upon  us  on  the  first 
of  November  or  one  of  the  following  days.  I finally  in- 
formed the  authorities  of  what  we  had  heard,  and  on 
Friday  morning  they  sent  a guard  of  three  soldiers  to  re- 
main in  the  house  day  and  night.  These  three  days,  when 
it  seemed  most  likely  we  might  have  trouble  have  passed 
very  quietly,  without  the  least  annoyance  to  us.  I think 
we  have  no  occasion  to  fear  anything  further  for  the 
present.  But  Mexico  is  Mexico;  and  true  to  the  history 
of  the  past,  there  is  now  very  considerable  dissatisfaction 
with  the  present  government,  even  on  the  part  of  some  of 
those  who  assisted  in  bringing  about  its  triumph  two 
years  ago. 

Some  think  we  shall  be  in  the  midst  of  another  revolu- 
tion before  many  months.  The  old  church  party  is 
evidently  making  every  effort  to  regain  its  former 
ascendency.  The  extreme  liberals  are  dissatisfied  with 
the  present  government,  because  of  its  temporizing  policy 
with  reference  to  reform  measures  and  its  almost  litter 
failure  to  fulfill  its  promises.  It  may  be  that  Diaz  will 
throw  himself  neck  and  heels  into  the  arms  of  the  reac- 
tionary party,  and  thus  provoke  a new  civil  war,  which 
would  probably  have  for  its  central  motive  the  religious 


106 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


question.  However,  we  hope  for  the  best,  and  trust  God 
will  order  all  for  the  good  of  his  sacred  cause. 

The  Catholic  papers  here  are  still  bitter  and  incendiary 
to  the  last  degree,  in  their  attacks  on  us,  but  we  have 
firm  friends  in  the  present  State  and  National  govern- 
ment, who,  so  long  as  they  are  in  power  will  no  doubt 
take  good  care  of  us. 

Our  congregations  have  fallen  off  a little  in  conse- 
quence of  the  persistence  of  the  attacks  of  our  enemies, 
but  doubtless  they  will  pick  up  again  when  the  present 
excitement  is  over.  We  have  been  cheered  to  find  that 
many  love  not  their  own  lives,  when  it  comes  to  the  point 
of  fidelity  in  the  midst  of  persecution.  . . . 

Not  long  before  this  our  mission  house  was  attacked 
about  midnight  by  a mob  of  fifty  or  more,  who  succeeded 
in  breaking  most  of  the  glass  in  the  front  windows  be- 
fore the  police  arrived,  but  did  no  further  damage.  My 
husband  was  in  Apizaco  at  the  time  and  I was  so  sound 
asleep  that  I knew  nothing  of  it  till  the  next  morning. 

Puebla,  December  30,  1878. 

Dear  Father: 

At  last  we  have  tidings  about  the  long  talked  of  super- 
intendency. I received  by  the  New  Orleans  mail  my 
appointment  by  Bishop  Merrill  to  succeed  Dr.  Butler 
when  his  resignation  shall  take  effect.  He  is  to  retain 
the  office  until  the  close  of  the  Annual  Meeting,  at  which 
he  is  to  preside,  and  as  his  closing  act  induct  me  into 
the  office. 

We  are  to  continue  our  residence  in  Puebla,  at  least 
for  a year,  and  I am,  according  to  the  arrangement  made 
by  Bishop  Merrill,  to  be  preacher-in-charge  of  this  work 
and  that  in  Apizaco,  teach  the  theological  class,  and  per- 
form the  duties  of  superintendent,  receiving  reports  from 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


107 


all  the  stations,  carrying  on  the  correspondence  with  the 
bishop  and  with  the  office  in  New  York,  and  visiting  the 
work  in  all  the  stations  as  emergencies  may  arise,  or  the 
interests  of  the  work  require.  So  you  see  my  work  this 
year  is  not  to  be  any  lighter  than  hitherto.  Still,  I am 
not  required  to  visit  all  the  stations,  quarterly,  and  ar- 
rangement has  been  made  to  relieve  me  of  the  care  of  the 
orphanage. 

Bishop  Merrill’s  letters  are  very  kind  and  pleasant, 
full  of  consideration  and  of  friendly  interest.  I look  for- 
ward with  interest  and  anxiety  to  the  approaching  An- 
nual Meeting,  which  is  to  be  held  in  Mexico  City,  begin- 
ning January  1G.  Do  not  forget  to  pray  for  me  and  for 
our  whole  Mission. 

Christmas  has  come  and  gone.  We  had  a very  pleasant 
and  successful  school  exhibition,  at  which  the  Governor 
of  the  State  and  several  of  his  personal  friends  were 
present.  Two  of  his  sons  took  part  in  the  program,  and 
his  three  oldest  children,  two  young  ladies  and  a gentle- 
man, were  also  here.  After  the  exhibition,  we  took  all 
the  school  children,  and  as  many  of  their  friends  as  could 
get  in,  to  the  parlor,  where  we  had  prepared  the  Christ- 
mas tree,  and  distributed  about  fifty  cornucopias  of 
candy.  We  did  not  give  out  the  presents  until  the  next 
day.  Christmas  morning  we  had  service,  and  I preached 
to  about  ninety  people. 

We  are  to  have  Watch  Night  service  to-morrow  night, 
and  will  observe  the  Week  of  Prayer  from  the  5th  to  the 
12th  of  January.  Our  new  fireplace  is  finished  and  is 
very  satisfactory.  We  take  a great  deal  of  comfort  out 
of  it.  I have  moved  my  study  into  the  parlor,  so  as  to 
have  the  full  benefit  of  it.  . . . 


CHAPTER  VI 


Puebla,  February  7,  1879. 

My  dear  Mother: 

Our  Annual  Meeting  lias  closed,  leaving  me  under  the 
responsibility  of  superintendent  of  this  Mission.  I am 
glad  to  know  and  to  tell  you,  that  all  the  missionaries  re- 
ceived my  appointment  to  the  superintendency  most  cor- 
dially, and  seem  willing  to  cooperate  with  me  in  every 
way. 

We  reached  home  Sunday  morning,  and  Monday  night 
I left  for  Orizaba,  to  inspect  the  work  there  and  introduce 
the  native  preacher  to  his  new  charge.  From  there  I 
went  to  Cordova  to  visit  the  work  in  that  place,  and  came 
back  to  Puebla  on  Friday.  This  was  my  first  experience 
as  presiding  elder! 

My  work  will  be  very  heavy  this  year,  and  a little  in- 
convenient to  manage  wfith  my  residence  in  Puebla,  but 
the  financial  stringency  which  is  upon  the  Missionary 
Society  renders  it  necessary,  for  the  present  year  at  least, 
to  lay  the  burden  of  the  general  supervision  of  the  work 
on  some  one  who,  at  the  same  time,  should  be  preacher 
in  charge  of  a station.  . . . 


Puebla,  March  6. 

I left  here  Wednesday,  February  19,  and  went  as  far 
as  Apizaco,  where  I had  to  attend  to  the  purchase  of  a 
lot,  on  which  we  hope  to  build  a selioolhouse  and  chapel. 
Spent  the  afternoon  and  night  there,  preaching  in  the 
evening.  Next  morning  rode  three  miles  on  horseback  to 

108 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


109 


see  a land  agent,  returned,  and  at  two  o’clock  took  the 
train  for  Ometusco,  where  I arrived  about  five. 

I had  a miserable  supper  in  not  very  attractive  com- 
pany ; talked  a while  with  the  station  master  and  another 
young  fellow  about  the  religious  question  between  Ro- 
manism and  Protestantism,  and  then  read  an  hour  or  two. 

My  room,  or  rather  the  public  bed  room,  had  six  beds, 
in  a space  considerably  less  than  our  parlor.  I was  alone 
till  midnight  and  was  just  falling  asleep,  when  a new 
arrival  from  the  twelve  o’clock  train  was  ushered  in,  and 
ushered  himself  rather  noisily  to  bed.  Twice  more  the 
room  was  entered,  with  and  without  a light,  and  in  an 
adjoining  room  such  a loud  conversation  was  kept  up 
as  for  a long  time  effectually  banished  sleep.  Soon  the 
braying  of  numerous  donkeys,  and  other  indications  of 
country  life  indicated  the  approach  of  dawn.  “Up  rose 
the  lark  (donkeys),  and  up  rose  Janet,”  and  went  forth 
to  view  the  beauties  of  Ometuscan  nature. 

At  six  o’clock  I took  the  diligence  for  Pachuca,  where 
we  arrived  about  three  that  afternoon.  Here  is  where 
Brother  Barker  is  stationed.  Mrs.  Barker  is  just  re- 
covering from  a long  and  dangerous  illness.  The  day  I 
arrived  she  was  completely  dressed  for  the  first  time  in 
fifty-four  days. 

On  Sunday  I preached  three  times  and  attended  class 
meeting,  though  I was  most  uncomfortable,  my  body 
aching  all  over,  partly  in  consequence  of  the  knocking 
about  in  the  stage,  and  partly  on  account  of  a cold  I had 
taken  on  the  way.  Tuesday  night  I held  Quarterly  Con- 
ference in  Pachuca,  and  on  Wednesday  Brother  Barker 
and  I rode  twenty  miles  on  horseback  to  Omitlan  and 
Real  del  Monte,  preaching  in  both  places,  and  got  back 
to  Pachuca  after  ten  o’clock  at  night,  having  ridden  a 
good  part  of  the  way  through  a dense  fog  and  misty  rain. 

Next  morning  at  six  o’clock  I set  out  for  Mexico  City. 


J 10 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


Reached  there  about  five  and  preached  that  evening. 
Friday  and  Saturday  were  passed  in  helping  prepare  the 
next  number  of  our  paper,  and  in  some  business  matters. 
I was  detained  there  over  Sunday  and  Monday,  in  order 
to  meet  Dr.  Gilman,  Secretary  of  the  American  Bible  So- 
ciety. Preached  Sunday  night  and  started  for  home  Mon- 
day night,  arriving  at  five  o’clock  in  the  morning.  You 
can  imagine  how  glad  I was  to  get  there ! 

The  general  work  of  our  Mission  is  going  forward  pros- 
perously, and  all  the  machinery  is  working  as  smoothly 
as  could  be  expected.  All  the  missionaries  have  been  cor- 
dial toward  me  in  my  new  relation,  and  the  only  trouble 
is  that  I have  so  much  to  do,  that  I am  embarrassed  by 
the  consciousness  that  I cannot  do  all  the  work  as  it 
ought  to  be  done.  Then  it  is  hard  to  have  to  leave  Ada 
alone  so  frequently  in  a place  where  she  has  no  com- 
panionship, and  may  at  times  be  exposed  to  danger.  How- 
ever>  I am  determined  to  go  forward,  doing  the  best  I can 
under  the  circumstances.  Pray  that  I may  be  guided 
aright.  . . . 


Orizaba,  March  15,  1879. 

Yesterday  a norther  came  up.  and  it  rained  hard  both 
here  and  in  Cordova.  I was  up  at  six  o'clock,  had  break 
fast  at  the  railroad  restaurant  and  went  at  nine  to  our 
mission  house  to  open  the  school,  and  at  eleven  took  the 
train  for  Cordova.  In  the  afternoon  went  to  see  Dr. 
Merker,  who  lives  alone  in  two  rooms  with  a servant  boy, 
three  dogs,  a rooster  with  his  harem  of  hens  and  nursery 
of  young  fledglings,  and  last  of  all  a tall,  raw-boned 
white  horse.  The  horse  is  a back  yard  tenant,  but  the 
small  fry  spend  at  least  part  of  the  time  in  the  parlor. 
The  doctor  has  almost  no  furniture,  but  is  as  jolly  and 
noisy  as  a school  boy,  and  offers  his  house  for  our  accom- 
modation whenever  we  come  to  Cordova.  I dined  with 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


111 


him  at  his  boarding  house.  His  hostess  is  a widow,  of 
German  birth,  who  emigrated  to  the  United  States  and 
was  married  the  day  after  her  arrival  in  New  York,  to  a 
cook,  a man  she  had  never  seen  nor  heard  of  before  she 
landed.  How  she  comes  to  be  in  Mexico  I do  not  know. 
Her  husband  having  died,  she  keeps  boarders  for  a living, 
and  is  a splendid  cook. 

In  the  evening  we  held  services  in  Cordova,  but  the  rain 
poured  and  very  few  people  came  out.  The  meeting  closed 
before  ten  o’clock,  but  I talked  with  the  native  preacher 
till  after  one,  had  to  get  up  at  three,  to  take  the  train, 
and  reached  Orizaba  at  daylight,  nearly  dead  for  sleep. 
I found  that  room  in  the  mission  house  as  damp  as  it  was 
the  other  time  I was  here,  so  determined  to  be  more  pru- 
dent, and  came  to  this  hotel  near  the  bridge.  It  is  kept 
by  a German  acquaintance,  and  I have  a good  upstairs 
room  with  a board  floor,  and  am  quite  comfortable.  The 
noise  of  the  river  is  in  my  ears  as  I write.  I am  to  preach 
to-night  and  three  times  to-morrow.  A good  many  Eng- 
lish people  seem  inclined  to  come  out  to  the  English  serv- 
ice I have  announced  for  the  afternoon.  . . . 

On  April  22  he  left  Mexico  City  on  his  first  official  visit 
to  Guanajuato,  and  wrote  from  El  Destello : We  reached 
this  place,  about  thirty-two  leagues  from  Mexico,  an  hour 
ago.  I got  a little  of  the  dust  brushed  off,  had  some 
supper  and  then  found  that  the  telegraph  office  was 
closed  and  I cannot  send  a telegram  till  to-morrow.  There 
is  no  post  office  here,  so  I am  trusting  this  letter  to  the 
best  messenger  I can  secure,  fearful  that  after  all  it  may 
not  reach  you. 

My  traveling  companions  are  pleasant  enough  in  their 
wav,  but  I have  not  felt  very  talkative  and  none  of  them 
seemed  inclined  to  talk  to  me,  so  I have  been,  as  pleased 
me  best,  very  much  to  myself.  I have  heard  a wonderful 


112 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


number  of  marvelous  stories  of  encounters  with  robbers, 
in  this  part  of  the  country.  Most  of  them  were  x’elated 
by  one  very  talkative  passenger,  who  would  seem  to  have 
borne  a principal  and  very  hei’oic  part  in  all  of  them. 
He  also  took  occasion,  two  or  thi’ee  times,  to  denounce  the 
Americans  iix  no  very  elegant  terms. 

As  he  evidentty  did  not  know  me  to  be  one  of  that  peo- 
ple, I took  no  notice  of  it,  though  I felt  a little  “riled.” 
Some  other  parts  of  the  conversation  held  gave  me  food 
for  reflection  as  to  the  moral  and  social  condition  of  the 
Mexican  people.  Perhaps  my  thoughts  about  these  were 
no  more  complimentary  than  his  words  about  my  country- 
men. 

The  greater  part  of  the  day  has  been  very  sultry  and 
the  dust  terrible!  The  road  in  several  places  exceedingly 
rough.  We  breakfasted  after  one  o'clock  at  Tula.  This 
is  the  largest  town  we  passed,  and  is  charmingly  situated 
down  in  a deep  narrow  valley,  with  a considerable  stream 
of  water  flowing  by  the  place.  The  view  of  it,  as  we 
climbed  the  mountain  side  after  leaving  it,  was  beautiful. 
From  four  to  half  past  six  the  scenery  and  the  tempei’a- 
ture  were  very  delightful.  . . . 


Guanajuato,  April  27. 

We  left  El  Destello  at  five  o’clock  Thursday  morning, 
breakfasted  in  San  Juan  del  Rio  at  ten  o’clock,  and 
reached  Queretaro  late  in  the  afternoon,  after  a long 
ride  of  more  than  twelve  hours.  I got  cleaned  up,  went 
to  call  on  Mr.  Plagemann,  a German  to  whom  I had  been 
recommended ; thence  to  the  telegraph  office  to  send  a 
message  to  you.  After  supper  went  back  to  see  the  Ger- 
man, whom  I had  not  been  able  to  find  at  my  fii’st  call, 
and  there  met  an  Americo-German  pedlar,  whose  acquain- 
tance I made  on  my  last  trip  from  Pachuca  to  Ometusco; 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


113 


was  by  him  introduced  to  a Jewish  American-German 
sewing-machine  agent. 

After  a few  minutes  chat  went  back  to  the  hotel  and 
to  bed.  Was  called  at  two  a.  mv  had  coffee,  and  at  three 
o’clock  the  stage  rattled  out  of  Queretaro.  We  had  eleven 
passengers  and  were  well  squeezed.  Part  of  the  early 
morning  I rode  on  the  outside  of  the  stage.  We  passed 
through  Celaya,  Salamanca,  where  we  breakfasted,  and 
Iraquato.  Arrived  at  Guanajuato  about  seven  o’clock, 
after  a ride  of  a hundred  and  twenty-six  miles  in  sixteen 
hours.  Brother  Craver  was  at  the  diligence  house  wait- 
ing to  receive  me,  and  I was  soon  introduced  to  the 
Guanajuato  Mission  home.  Most  of  Saturday  was  passed 
in  talking  over  mission  affairs  and  walking  about  the 
city.  In  the  afternoon  we  went  up  to  the  reservoirs. 

Sunday’s  program  was  service  at  8 a.  m.  in  the  new 
chapel,  Sunday  school  at  ten,  preaching  at  four,  and  the 
sacramental  service  at  night.  I went  to  bed  at  eleven 
o’clock  a very  tired  boy.  I like  Guanajuato  very  much, 
and  am  greatly  pleased  with  Brother  Craver’s  congrega- 
tion. Yesterday  there  were  about  a hundred  and  seventy- 
five  present  both  morning  and  evening.  Bx*other  Craver 
has  no  orphanage  to  help  his  congregation.  There  are 
very  many  nice-looking  people  in  his  church,  and  the 
spirit  shown  by  many  of  them  is  very  gratifying. 

Thursday  morning  at  three  o’clock  I shall  start  on  my 
return  trip,  reaching  Queretaro  in  the  evening  of  the 
same  day.  I was  very  much  pleased  with  the  appearance 
of  Queretaro  as  I came  up,  and  trust  the  Lord’s  blessing 
will  accompany  our  endeavors  to  establish  a mission 
there.  It  is  no  doubt  a very  fanatical  city,  but  I believe 
our  work  will  meet  with  success.  . . . 


Queretaro,  May  3. 

All  day  yesterday,  from  three  o’clock  in  the  morning 


114 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


till  five  in  the  afternoon,  I spent  in  the  diligence.  Our 
company  consisted  of  two  Frenchmen,  three  Mexican 
women,  and  myself.  I reached  here  safe  and  sound,  and 
less  tired  than  was  to  have  been  anticipated  after  only 
two  hours’  sleep  the  night  before.  I felt  very  lonely  here 
last  night,  alone  in  this  city,  without  a friend  near  me, 
and  with  the  feeling  that  it  was  but  a forlorn  hope  that 
of  expecting  to  establish  a mission  here.  Prayer,  the 
Bible,  and  the  felt  sympathy  of  my  dear  wife  comforted 
me  and  strengthened  my  faith  not  a little. 

This  morning  as  a good  preparation  for  beginning 
work,  I read  Paul’s  experience  in  Athens.  Later  I went 
out  to  look  up  some  persons  to  whom  I have  letters, 
walked  over  a considerable  part  of  the  town,  and  ex- 
amined three  or  four  houses  that  are  for  rent.  A little 
after  noon,  started  for  the  Hercules  cotton  factory,  where 
I found  two  Americans,  brothers,  and  their  wives,  all 
very  pleasant  people.  I went  through  the  factory,  spoke 
to  two  workmen  who  are  Protestants,  and  they  told  me 
there  were  several  more  employed  in  the  factory.  So  here 
is  a beginning. 

I got  back  to  the  hotel  about  five,  and  in  a few  minutes 
the  diligence  arrived,  bringing  the  native  preacher,  Val- 
lejo, who  is  to  have  charge  of  the  work  here.  He  is  in 
the  same  room  with  me,  but  we  have  two  beds. 

I forgot  to  mention  in  the  proper  place,  that  while  in 
Guanajuato,  Brother  Craver  and  I went  to  call  on  the 
Governor,  who  received  us  very  kindly,  and  gave  me  a note 
of  introduction  to  the  commander  of  the  federal  troops 
here  in  Queretaro.  . . . 


May  5. 

We  have  met  with  as  many  encouragements  to-day  as 
we  did  disappointments  on  Saturday.  We  have  found 
some  very  good  and  apparently  reliable  friends,  secured 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


115 


a suitable  house,  and  shall  leave  Vallejo  comfortably  set- 
tled. I think  I am  none  too  sanguine  in  my  hopes,  but 
I am  persuaded  that  if  Brother  Vallejo  lives  right,  and 
works  with  prudence,  courage,  and  faith,  he  will  find  a 
safe  and  fruitful  field  of  labor  here  in  Queretaro.  . . . 

He  reached  Mexico  City  the  following  Friday  night, 
preached  twice  on  Sunday,  and  again  Tuesday  night. 
Wednesday  he  called  on  President  Diaz  and  secured  let- 
ters of  recommendation  for  Vallejo,  to  the  protection  of 
State  and  federal  officials  in  Queretaro,  and  at  night  took 
the  train  for  Puebla,  reaching  there  at  daylight  Thurs- 
day morning. 


(To  his  Father) 

Cordova,  June  2,  1879. 

I left  Puebla  last  Friday  night  and  reached  Orizaba 
the  next  morning  at  nine  o’clock ; spent  Sunday  there, 
preaching  twice  and  administering  the  Lord’s  Supper. 
This  morning  I came  on  to  this  place,  where  I shall  have 
to  remain  for  several  days.  Our  work  here  has  suffered 
very  seriously,  partly  from  lack  of  funds,  but  more  from 
lack  of  proper  care  and  attention  on  the  part  of  those 
hitherto  in  charge  of  it. 

The  native  preacher,  who  has  been  here  for  about  a 
year,  has  to  be  relieved  on  account  of  his  unacceptability 
to  the  people.  He  is  really  not  suited  for  a preacher,  and 
realizes  it  himself;  so  he  is  to  be  employed  henceforth 
as  a colporteur  in  another  part  of  the  field.  In  conse- 
quence of  this,  I am  obliged  to  make  some  arrangement 
for  supplying  our  congregation  here.  As  we  have  no  man 
available  to  send  here,  it  will  probably  be  necessary  to 
sustain  the  services  by  sending  some  one  from  Puebla, 
once  every  two  weeks,  a burdensome  arrangement,  but 


116 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


the  only  alternative  except  that  of  the  temporary  sus- 
pension of  the  congregation.  I am  going  to  try  to  bring 
the  people  together  and  find  out  what  spirit  they  are  of, 
and  then  act  accordingly. 

I am  sorry  for  it,  but  I find  too  frequent  proofs  of  the 
fact  to  allow  of  my  being  oblivious  to  it,  that  those  in 
charge  of  the  work  have  been  often  deceived,  and  our 
cause,  in  many  places,  is  suffering  in  consequence  of  the 
conduct  of  those  who  were  pushed  forward  as  teachers 
of  Protestaut  Christianity.  The  history  of  all  the  mis- 
sions of  the  different  churches  has  been  the  same  in  this 
respect.  The  evil  has  been  fostered  by  the  spirit  of 
rivalry  which  has  existed  between  the  denominations. 

Perhaps  the  emulation  was  right  enough ; but  it  en- 
gendered in  each  of  the  churches  such  undue  haste  to 
extend  its  work,  as  led  to  an  undue  effort  to  occupy  new 
places,  each  in  advance  of  the  other.  So  the  work  has 
grown  faster  than  the  right  kind  of  agents  to  carry  it 
forward.  In  consequence,  the  churches  have  been  calling 
young  men  who  were  never  called  of  God,  were  never  con- 
verted, and  were  ignorant  of  the  first  principles  of  Chris- 
tian doctrine  and  practice.  Of  course  there  have  always 
been  enough  young  men  in  want  of  a means  of  living,  who 
were  ready  to  profess  anything  in  order  to  gain  money. 
In  order  to  supply  its  work,  each  of  the  churches  has  been 
unwise  enough  to  take  up  men  of  this  class. 

Now  nearly  all  the  churches  have  fully  seen  this  evil 
and  its  consequences,  and  the  sifting  process  has  been 
pretty  thoroughly  carried  on,  the  leading  churches  hav- 
ing, at  this  time,  a tried  and  faithful  body  of  preachers. 
Our  preachers,  however,  now  have  to  meet  and  struggle 
against  the  prejudice  created  by  the  ill  conduct  of  their 
predecessors ; besides  the  difficulties  incident  to  the  en- 
deavor to  evangelize  a Roman  Catholic  country.  I am 
persuaded  that  this  explains,  in  great  part,  why  the 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


117 


spiritual  growth  of  the  missions  in  Mexico  has  not  kept 
pace  with  their  outward  extension. 

I feel  very  deeply  that  for  the  future  we  must  extend 
our  work  as  God  gives  the  right  kind  of  men  with  which 
to  do  it,  and  not  multiply  our  agents  simply  in  order  to 
open  new  work.  If  we  pray  and  work  aright,  surely  God 
will  keep  up  the  right  proportion  between  the  work  and 
the  workers.  We  need  not  pray  the  Lord  to  prepare  the 
fields,  for  lo!  they  are  already  white  unto  the  harvest; 
but  we  do  need  to  pray  him  to  send  forth  laborers  into 
his  harvest.  Our  church  needs  to  give  more  money  to  the 
work  of  training  its  ministry  in  Mexico. 

The  climate  of  Cordova  is  thoroughly  tropical.  The 
rain  pours  heavily  to-night,  indicating  that  the  rainy 
season  has  fully  set  in.  Two  weeks  ago,  this  place  and 
Orizaba  were  shaken  by  a severe  earthquake.  Houses 
were  rendered  uninhabitable,  church  towers  and  domes 
were  thrown  down  or  cracked.  The  wall  of  the  room  I 
am  now  in  has  a wide  seam  from  ceiling  to  floor.  . . . 


Puebla,  June  16. 

I remained  in  Cordoba  till  the  following  Thursday,  and 
succeeded  in  arranging  matters  satisfactorily,  at  least  for 
the  present.  I then  returned  to  Orizaba  and  held  a serv- 
ice that  night,  coming  on  to  Puebla  the  following  day. 
I have  been  exceedingly  busy  ever  since,  writing  official 
letters  to  the  bishop  and  office  in  New  York,  an  article 
for  the  Western  Christian  Advocate,  and  a sketch  of  the 
history  and  present  status  of  our  Mission  for  the  Appen- 
dix of  a new  edition  of  Miss  Rankin’s  book  on  Mexico. 
I have  still  on  hand,  unanswered,  a letter  from  some 
minister  in  a country  town  of  New  York,  asking  for  in- 
formation about  Mexico  and  the  Mission  work.  He  lays 
down  for  my  direction  an  outline  embracing  nine  different 


118 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


headings,  beginning  with  climate,  soil,  etc.,  and  including 
the  last  details  of  the  work  of  the  Mission.  I don’t  know 
when  I shall  be  able  to  comply  with  this  request.  . . . 


Miraflores,  June  25,  1879. 

I reached  Mexico  City  Saturday  evening,  on  time,  and 
had  a good  night’s  rest  and  preparation  for  Sunday’s 
duties.  Preached  morning  and  evening.  On  Tuesday 
morning,  quite  a party  of  us  went  to  San  Vicente  to  dedi- 
cate the  new  chapel.  I enjoyed  the  day  very  much.  Early 
in  the  afternoon  I left  there  on  horseback,  in  company 
with  Brother  Cordoba  and  three  other  Mexican  brethren, 
for  Miraflores,  arriving  here  at  nightfall. 

When  I got  off  the  horse  my  limbs  almost  refused  to 
support  me,  but  I was  able  to  be  up  early  the  next  morn- 
ing, and  went  for  a ride  before  breakfast,  to  try  and  cure 
my  lameness  before  starting  on  to  Amecameca.  To-day 
has  been  beautiful ; no  rain  and  a delightful  temperature. 
Brother  and  Sister  Siberts  and  I have  had  long  talks 
about  the  affairs  of  the  Mission,  and  we  agree  very  well 
as  to  the  situation  and  its  probable  remedy. 

To-morrow  we  go  to  Amecameca,  where  we  shall  spend 
the  day  and  night,  returning  to  Miraflores  on  Friday.  I 
shall  stay  here  until  the  following  Monday,  then  back  to 
Mexico  City,  and  home  Tuesday  morning! 

(From  one  of  my  home  letters,  dated  August  25) 

We  had  our  little  chapel  down  stairs  dedicated  last 
Thursday  night,  and  will  convert  the  one  we  have  had  up- 
stairs into  a dormitory.  Thursday  morning  at  five 
o’clock,  Miss  Swaney,  Carlota,  one  of  the  girls  from  the 
orphanage  in  Mexico  City,  Senora  Rodriguez,  the  mother 
of  one  of  the  boys  here,  and  Maxima,  Miss  Swaney’s  cook, 
who  also  has  a little  boy  in  our  school,  arrived,  to  be 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


119 


present  at  the  dedication  and  incidentally  to  make  a visit. 
In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Butler  and  his  wife,  who  had  been 
spending  a few  days  in  Cordoba,  came  up  and  they  were 
all  here  for  that  night.  As  we  have  but  one  spare  room  I 
was  rather  at  a loss  how  to  arrange  to  make  them  all 
comfortable,  but  with  a little  ingenuity,  a couple  of  extra 
cots  and  a wide  lounge,  we  finally  succeeded  very  well  and 
had  a pleasant  time. 

The  services  passed  off  most  satisfactorily,  without  any 
disturbance  whatever,  though  I had  greatly  feared  there 
might  be  some  trouble.  The  room  was  full  and  many 
went  away,  not  being  able  to  find  seats.  C.  preached. 
The  boys  were  all  well  dressed,  several  of  them  in  new 
suits,  aud  I felt  very  proud  of  them.  They  sang  beauti- 
fully, too.  These  boys  make  me  a lot  of  extra  work,  but 
I am  so  fond  of  them  that  I don’t  mind  it,  and  would 
willingly  do  even  more  for  them  if  it  were  possible.  I am 
alone  so  much  that  they  are  with  me  a great  deal,  and  I 
don’t  know  what  I should  do  without  them. 

I suppose  you  will  be  going  to  Conference  about  this 
time.  How  we  should  love  to  be  with  you ! Our  visit 
home  is  a bright  spot  in  the  future  to  which  we  look  for- 
ward with  the  greatest  of  pleasure,  but  when  it  will  be 
we  cannot  tell.  Have  you  seen  the  new  hymn  books,  and 
have  you  noticed  a hymn  beginning  “For  thee,  O dear, 
dear  country,  mine  eyes  their  vigils  keep”?  The  senti- 
ment of  that  appeals  to  me  very  strongly.  . . . 


(To  his  Mother) 

Puebla,  September  8,  1879. 

As  the  time  passes  it  does  not  bring  any  cessation  nor 
diminution  of  work  either  for  Ada  or  myself,  every  week 
bringing  some  new  special  demand  upon  us.  Immediately 
after  the  dedication  of  our  new  place  of  worship  here  in 


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THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


Puebla,  I had  to  go  to  Pachuea,  where  I spent  Sunday, 
preaching  three  times  and  holding  class  meeting.  On 
Monday  night,  with  the  assistance  of  Brother  Barker,  I 
gave  a magic  lantern  entertainment  to  the  people  of  the 
Mexican  congregation.  I do  not  like  the  show  business. 

When  I reached  Mexico  City  on  my  way  home,  I found 
it  necessary  to  go  to  Orizaba  the  very  next  night,  and  did 
not  get  home  till  the  end  of  August.  Last  week  and  to- 
day have  been  very  busy  arranging  for  the  opening  of  a 
girls’  school  here  in  Puebla.  Now  within  the  next  two 
weeks  I must  prepare  the  estimates  for  the  whole  Mission 
for  next  year,  and  write  out  my  annual  report  and  sta- 
tistics. Ada  keeps  as  busy  as  I,  and  I believe  is  naturally 
more  industrious.  We  are  both  well  and  strong,  and  can- 
not be  too  grateful  for  all  the  mercies  we  enjoy. 

Our  work  has  its  annoyances,  difficulties,  and  perplexi- 
ties, sufficient  at  times  to  make  the  futtire  look  dark  and 
\mcertain;  but  after  all,  we  are  happy  in  our  work  and 
can  tx*ust  the  future  to  our  heavenly  Father.  . . . 

In  October  we  went  to  Vera  Cruz,  Miss  Mulliner  accom- 
panying us,  to  meet  the  new  missionaries  who  were  com- 
ing to  take  charge  of  the  work  in  Orizaba,  and  help  them 
get  settled.  We  went  on  board  the  steamer,  but  they 
were  not  among  the  passengers.  We  met  several  Presby- 
terian missionaries,  however,  whom  Rev.  Mr.  Hutchin- 
son, the  superintendent  of  that  Mission,  had  come  to 
receive,  among  them  Mr.  Kyle,  a graduate  of  Lane 
Seminary,  Cincinnati,  and  his  wife,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Polhemus,  delightful  young  people  from  New  York. 

As  we  had  word  by  this  steamer  that  those  we  were 
expecting  would  be  here  by  the  following  one,  we  decided 
to  wait  for  them,  spending  the  intervening  time  in  Cor- 
doba. We  had  rooms  in  the  Mission  House,  an  old-fash- 
ioned building  with  low  ceilings  and  queer  doors  and 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


121 


windows;  and  on  the  second  floor  a long,  low  corridor 
running  the  entire  length  of  the  house.  There  it  was 
always  cool  and  pleasant,  and  besides  having  magnificent 
views  of  the  mountains  and  hills  and  woods  in  the  dis- 
tance, it  overlooked  the  public  square,  which  was  full  of 
orange  trees,  whose  blossoms  filled  the  air  with  their 
fragrance,  and  where  the  birds  sang  from  morning  till 
night. 

We  took  our  meals  at  a small  hotel  near  by,  where  they 
had  delicious  Cordoba  coffee,  and  better  food  than  is  often 
to  be  found  in  more  pretentious  places.  We  met  and 
spent  several  afternoons  with  the  only  American  resident 
there,  a physician  and  a Southerner,  who  had  lived  in 
Cordoba  since  the  close  of  the  Civil  War.  Dr.  Russell 
owned  a coffee  plantation  and  several  farms  near  the 
city,  and  frequently  visited  them;  but  the  state  of  the 
country  was  such  that  he  never  went  alone,  nor  returned 
by  the  same  road.  Even  with  all  these  precautions  he  had 
his  horse  shot  from  under  him  only  a few  days  before  we 
were  there,  and  the  week  after  we  left  he  was  attacked  in 
his  own  house  by  three  men  who  had  some  grudge  against 
him  and  was  badly  wounded. 

The  next  steamer  brought  the  missionaries,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Umpleby,  and  also  Miss  Warner,  returning  from  her 
first  visit  home  after  several  years’  hard  work  in  the 
Girls’  Orphanage  in  Mexico  City.  She  is  now  going  to 
Pachuca  to  take  Miss  Hastings’s  place  during  her  vaca- 
tion. Mr.  Umpleby  is  about  thirty  years  of  age,  a gradu- 
ate of  Boston  Theological  Seminary,  and  they  were 
married  in  August. 

This  is  their  first  experience  away  from  their  own 
country,  and  we  did  what  we  could  to  get  them  comfort- 
ably installed  in  their  new  home. 

Examinations  and  the  preparations  for  Christmas 
filled  up  the  remaining  weeks  of  the  year,  and  in  the 


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THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


midst  of  them  came  the  news  of  the  death  of  my  youngest 
sister,  the  first  sorrow  I had  ever  known,  and  doubly 
hard  to  bear  so  far  from  home. 


(To  his  Father) 

December  27. 

Christmas  time  was  very  much  saddened  for  both  of 
us,  but  we  had  the  tree  for  the  children  as  we  had 
planned,  and  such  presents  as  we  had  been  able  to  get 
together  for  them.  Christmas  night  we  had  a little  school 
exhibition  and  the  presentation  of  premiums.  Two  or 
three  members  of  the  State  Legislature  and  a number  of 
other  prominent  persons  were  present,  and  seemed  well 
pleased. 

Our  work  in  general  goes  on  well.  We  are  now  build- 
ing a little  place  of  worship  in  Apizaco,  and  hope  to  have 
it  finished  before  the  bishop  arrives.  The  church  in 
Mexico  City  has  been  reroofed,  and  is  to  be  reopened  next 
Wednesday,  with  Watch  Night  services. 

This  is  the  last  time  I shall  write  you  under  date  of 
1879.  Pray  for  us  that  in  the  new  year  God  may  grant 
us  all  comfort  and  grace  that  we  need  for  the  work,  and 
for  the  sorrows  of  life. 


CHAPTER  VII 


On  January  28,  1880,  Mr.  Drees  left  for  Vera  Cruz,  to 
meet  Bishop  Harris,  who  was  coming  to  visit  the  Mission, 
and  preside  at  the  Annual  Meeting. 

Cordoba,  January  30,  1880. 

You  will  see  from  the  above  heading  that  I have  safely 
accomplished  the  first  stage  of  my  pilgrimage.  I slept 
some  between  Puebla  and  Apizaco,  but  the  second  class 
car  was  so  crowded  and  uncomfortable  that  at  the  latter 
place  I transferred  myself  to  a first  class  compartment, 
where  my  only  companion  was  a tall  and  somewhat  talka- 
tive Spaniard.  We  placed  two  satchels  on  the  floor,  piled 
two  cushions  on  them,  filling  up  the  space  between  the 
two  seats  which  faced  each  other,  and  so  formed  a double 
bed  on  which  we  stretched  out  for  sleep.  The  chief  draw- 
back to  my  rest  was  the  restlessness  of  my  companion. 

We  got  up  rather  early,  and  the  jolly  son  of  Iberia 
began  to  relate,  with  all  due  pantomimic  action,  the  hair- 
breadth escape  of  one  of  Albion’s  children  who,  being  on 
a railroad  track,  between  a frightful  precipice  on  the  one 
hand  and  a perpendicular  wall  on  the  other,  saw  a hand- 
car  come  rushing  down  upon  him  with  all  the  velocity  due 
to  a steep  grade.  At  the  opportune  instant  the  English- 
man leaped  with  all  his  gathered  strength  into  the  air, 
and  before  he  alighted  the  danger  had  passed  beneath 
him. 

At  the  critical  point  the  Spaniard  became  excited  with 
the  story  and,  suiting  the  action  to  the  word,  leaped  from 

123 


124 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


the  ear  floor  with  all  his  might.  O woe!  woe!  he  had 
forgotten  that  he  had  not,  like  the  hero  of  his  story,  all 
out  of  doors  above  his  head,  and  his  noggin  came  into 
such  violent  contact  with  the  car  lamp  as  nearly  to  send 
that  luminary  out  upon  the  roof.  After  a brief  lull  in 
the  tragic  scene,  he  began  to  examine  his  head,  while  the 
brakeman  on  the  roof  pulled  up  the  lamp  to  see  if  it  had 
suffered  injury.  The  latter  was  all  right,  but  the  poor 
Gachupin’s  scalp  proved  to  have  suffered  a rather  severe 
abrasion  from  which  the  blood  was  oozing.  In  spite  of 
the  poor  man's  pain  I could  not  help  successive  quakes 
and  rolls  of  laughter. 

Arnica  for  my  companion’s  head  at  the  next  station ; 
and  I reduce  myself  once  more  to  the  second  class  car. 
Cost  of  night’s  rest  and  morning’s  joke — 10  cents.  . . . 

Vera  Cruz,  January  31. 

I have  just  reached  here,  and  find  the  New  Orleans 
steamer  is  not  expected  before  Monday.  I am  greatly 
troubled  over  this  delay  in  the  bishop’s  arrival,  with  all 
the  consequences  it  brings.  If  he  decides  to  take  the  trip 
to  Guanajuato  before  Annual  Meeting,  I shall  have  to  go 
straight  from  here  to  Mexico  City.  . . . 

This  he  evidently  did,  as  they  were  in  El  Destello,  the 
end  of  the  first  stage  of  their  journey  north,  at  ten  o’clock 
the  following  Wednesday  night.  The  next  day  they  went 
on  to  Queretaro  and  spent  the  night,  or  part  of  it,  taking 
the  diligence  from  there  at  2 a.  m.  for  Guanajuato. 

Guanajuato,  February  9,  1S80. 

We  arrived  here  late  Friday  afternoon  after  a stage 
ride  of  more  than  sixteen  hours.  Brother  Craver  met  us 
at  the  diligence  house  and  we  soon  reached  the  Mission 
premises.  We  had  supper  and  talked  till  quite  late.  On 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


125 


Saturday  we  began  to  work  up  the  matter  of  the  purchase 
of  property.  The  bishop  fully  approves  our  preference. 
Before  noon  to-day  the  matters  were  all  settled,  docu- 
ments drawn  and  signed,  and  the  money,  $9,000  silver, 
paid.  Brother  and  Sister  Craver  are  highly  elated  over 
this.  To-day  is  the  fourth  anniversary  of  their  arrival 
here. 

The  services  on  Sunday  were  well  attended ; I preached 
three  times,  held  love  feast,  and  administered  the  Lord’s 
Supper.  To-morrow  we  are  to  visit  the  new  house  to 
make  plans  for  its  adaptation  to  the  wants  of  our  Mission 
here.  . . . 

Queretaro,  February  15. 

On  Wednesday  Bishop  Harris  and  I went  to  Leon, 
leaving  Guanajuato  at  five  o’clock  in  the  morning.  We 
returned  to  Guanajuato  on  Friday  afternoon  and  came 
on  to  this  place  Saturday.  I have  walked  so  much  on 
these  rough  streets,  talked  so  much,  preached  so  much, 
and  been  up  so  late  every  night  and  so  early  every  morn- 
ing, that  I am  footsore,  throatsore,  and  generally  worn 
out,  so  that  it  seems  hard  work  even  to  write.  Tn  one 
place  the  bishop  and  I were  obliged  to  be  not  only  room- 
mates but  bedfellows  as  well,  in  spite  of  the  preference  of 
both  for  separate  rooms  and  bed.  . . . 

(To  his  Mother) 

March  20,  1880. 

I left  Puebla  the  28th  of  January  to  meet  Bishop  Harris 
in  Vera  Cruz,  and  from  that  time  for  six  weeks  I was 
only  at  home  three  days.  I accompanied  the  bishop  in 
all  his  visitation  of  our  Mi.ssion,  before  and  after  the 
Annual  Meeting.  The  most  distant  point  we  reached  was 
Leon,  350  miles  northwest  of  Mexico  City.  We  visited 
Guanajuato  and  Queretaro ; Miraflores,  Amecameca,  Aya- 
pango  and  San  Vicente;  Tezontepec,  Pachuca,  Real  del 


126 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


Monte,  Omitlan  and  Regia ; Puebla  and  Cliolula ; Orizava 
and  Cordoba.  During  bis  stay  the  bishop  traveled  about 
1,500  miles  by  railroad,  on  horseback,  and  in  stages. 

We  were  both  very  tired,  and  very  glad  when  it  was  all 
over.  I think  the  bishop  enjoyed  his  visit,  though  he  said 
that  some  of  the  traveling  was  rougher  than  anything  he 
experienced  during  his  trip  around  the  world. 

The  Annual  Meeting  passed  off  as  pleasantly  as  could 
be  expected.  Everybody  was  very  much  pressed  with 
work,  and  there  was  little  time  for  social  intercourse.  A 
friendly  spirit  seemed  to  prevail  for  the  most  part,  and 
I think  all  were  pleased  with  the  visit  of  Bishop  Harris. 

I suppose  Ada  has  told  you  we  are  to  move  to  Mexico 
City.  I am  to  have  charge  of  the  editorial  work  in  ad- 
dition to  the  superintendency  of  the  Mission.  We  feel 
sorry  to  leave  Puebla.  Ada  especially  dislikes  the  house 
we  shall  have  to  live  in.  Still  there  is  not  at  present  any 
help  for  it,  so  we  are  agreed  to  make  the  best  of  it. 

I send  you  by  this  mail  a little  book  written  by  Bishop 
Merrill,  translated  by  Ada,  corrected  by  myself,  and  just 
issued  from  our  press. 

I cannot  tell  you  how  warmly  our  hearts  respond  to 
your  expressed  desire  for  our  going  home  for  a visit  this 
spring,  but  however  much  we  may  desire  it,  it  is  utterly 
impossible  this  year.  . . . 

Early  in  April  we  moved  to  Mexico  City,  and  although 
it  was  in  many  respects  a more  pleasant  place  of  resi- 
dence, it  was  with  the  greatest  regret  that  I left  Puebla, 
my  first  home,  and  the  children  to  whom  I had  become 
so  much  attached.  For  some  time  the  melancholy  little 
letters  from  the  boys  and  the  no  less  dismal  ones  from 
Mr.  Luders,  my  husband’s  colleague,  left  in  charge  of 
them,  who  wrote  that  “the  house  seemed  very  wide”  with- 
out us,  made  me  extremely  homesick. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


127 


At  the  end  of  the  month,  Mr.  Drees  went  to  Queretaro, 
to  install  the  new  pastor,  Cordova,  who  was  to  have 
charge  of  the  work  there  for  the  coming  year. 

Qukretako,  April  30. 

I reached  here  an  hour  ago  and  found  Brother  Cordova 
awaiting  me  at  the  diligence  house.  He  insisted  on  my 
coming  to  stay  with  them,  so  here  I am,  installed  for  a 
few  days  of  my  visit.  The  journey  was  without  incident 
worthy  of  mention,  except  an  amusing  story  told  by  a 
priest  who  was  one  of  the  passengers. 

He  is  just  home  from  a two  years’  residence  in  Europe, 
has  been  in  Spain,  in  Paris,  and,  above  all,  has  seen  the 
Pope!  At  the  table  in  San  Juan  del  Rio,  the  conversa- 
tion of  the  passengers  turned  upon  the  riches  of  the  Pope 
and  the  splendor  of  his  court,  when  the  priest  said  that 
when  he  went  to  Europe  he  thought  he  would  carry  a 
present  to  the  Holy  Father.  So  he  bought  a beautiful  gold 
cigarette  holder.  (I  think  the  head  of  Christendom  must 
receive  some  rare  gifts!)  He  went  to  the  Vatican,  and 
walking  through  some  of  its  courts,  saw  standing  open 
the  door  of  the  Pope’s  coach  house.  He  asked  permission 
to  go  in,  and  was  shown  the  carriage  of  state.  The  priest 
grew  eloquent  in  his  description  of  the  vehicle,  all 
covered  over  with  fine  gold  and  with  the  richest  hang- 
ings and  upholstery,  and  finished  his  story  by  saying  that 
after  seeing  this  coach,  he  concluded  that  the  Pope  was 
not  so  needy  as  he  himself  was;  so  he  sold  the  cigarette 
holder  for  200  francs  and  kept  the  money  for  his  own  ex- 
penses. What  do  you  think  of  that  as  an  example  of  de- 
votion to  the  Pope?  .... 

May  1. 

This  morning  Brother  Cordova  and  I called  on  the 
District  Judge,  Romero,  and  the  Circuit  Judge,  Calero. 


128 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


We  were  received  very  kindly.  We  then  went  to  see  the 
Chief  of  Police,  but  did  not  find  him  in  his  office.  After 
lunch  we  went  to  see  General  and  ex-Governor  Gayon. 
I presented  Altamirano’s  letter  and  we  were  very  politely 
received.  We  had  quite  an  extended  conversation,  and 
received  profuse  assurances  that  nothing  will  be  allowed 
to  happen  to  Cordova. 

We  have  taken  another  house,  not  so  well  situated  as 
this,  being  in  a retired  street.  However,  it  will  be  much 
more  favorable  to  those  of  the  tribe  of  Nieodemus,  who 
would  like  to  visit  Cordova,  but  are  very  much  afraid  of 
publicity.  Another  very  important  advantage  is  that  it 
is  just  across  the  street  from  Uribe’s,  his  most  intimate 
and  most  influential  friend.  Uribe  seems  to  become  more 
earnest  every  day,  and  more  resolved  to  stand  by  Cordova 
at  any  cost. 

This  afternoon  we  drove  out  to  Hercules.  We  found 
our  American  friends  and  one  or  two  others,  who  were 
pleasant  and  promised  to  be  kind  to  Cordova.  Just  as 
we  got  out  of  our  coach,  a diligence  drawn  by  six  beau- 
tiful white  mules,  drove  furiously  up.  The  driver  threw 
the  reins  to  the  boys  who  were  waiting,  and  then  came 
up  to  the  entrance  to  the  factory.  It  proved  to  be  Don 
Cayetano  Rubio,  the  Czar  of  these  regions.  He  came  up 
to  us  with  a profuse  show  of  politeness,  took  us  into  his 
house,  offered  us  beer,  wine,  brandy,  and  what  not,  and 
was  very  affable.  Then  he  sent  for  Hopkins,  the  manager, 
and  we  gave  him  our  thanks  and  our  good-by.  It  seems 
that  Rubio’s  father  and  Cordova’s  were  intimate  friends, 
and  as  we  came  away  he  said  that  as  their  fathers  had 
been  friends,  he  and  Cordova  would  be  the  same  to  each 
other.  I hope  he  will  continue  as  friendly  when  he  learns 
Cordova’s  profession  and  the  object  of  his  coming  to 
Queretaro. 

I think  the  immediate  effect  of  my  visit  here  has  been 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


129 


very  good.  The  greatest  obstacle  to  our  permanence  here 
has  been  overcome;  Brother  Cordova  is  very  greatly  en- 
couraged, and  there  seems  to  be  a fair  prospect  of  suc- 
cess. . . . 

Soon  after  the  Annual  Meeting,  word  came  of  the  ap- 
pointment of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Greenman  to  Puebla,  and  they 
arrived  about  the  middle  of  May.  My  husband  went  to 
Vera  Cruz  to  meet  them,  while  I went  to  Puebla  to  put 
things  in  order  for  their  coming,  and  make  the  beginning 
as  easy  as  possible.  They  were  just  out  of  college,  he 
twenty -five,  and  she  three  years  younger,  and  both  very 
bright  and  cheerful  and  inclined  to  make  the  best  of 
things. 

In  June  we  went  for  a week  to  Pachuca,  where,  in  ad- 
dition to  the  usual  extra  services,  we  had  a most  pleasant 
visit  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Barker.  Pachuca  is  the  center  of 
a large  mining  district,  and  many  Cornish  people  had 
settled  here.  The  day  of  our  arrival  there  was  a tea  meet- 
ing, always  a very  important  event  here.  It  was  held  in 
the  church,  the  benches  being  removed  and  long  tables 
arranged,  with  two  ladies  presiding  at  each,  to  pour  the 
tea.  There  was  a plentiful  supply  of  bread  and  butter, 
cakes  of  various  kinds,  especially  saffron  cake,  and  gal- 
lons of  strong  tea. 

Later  the  tables  were  cleared  and  removed,  and  there 
was  singing,  hymns  with  ten  or  twelve  verses  sung  with 
great  vigor  and  enthusiasm,  brief  addresses,  and  select 
readings.  The  exercises  opened  and  closed  with  prayer. 

While  here  we  visited  Tezontepec,  an  Indian  town  about 
twenty-two  miles  from  Pachuca,  where  there  was  a con- 
gregation of  Protestants  that  had  acquired  without  help 
from  the  Mission,  a little  chapel  holding  perhaps  a hun- 
dred people.  Mr.  Barker,  Mr.  Drees,  Gamboa,  and  Miss 
Warner  went  on  horseback ; Mrs.  Barker  and  I in  a small 


130 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


phaeton.  The  road  for  about  fifteen  miles  was  over  a 
broad  level  plain,  like  our  Western  prairies,  and  not  a 
house  or  building  of  any  kind  in  sight  in  all  that  dis- 
tance. 

We  were  entertained  at  the  house  of  a Mexican,  the 
most  influential  man  of  the  village,  and  he  and  his  family 
the  chief  members  of  the  congregation.  They  had  every- 
thing very  comfortable  and  clean,  and  were  most  kind 
and  hospitable.  We  held  services  in  the  evening,  Mr. 
Drees  preaching.  After  this  we  had  supper,  and  got  to 
bed  very  late. 

A bed  was  made  up  for  one  member  of  the  party,  on 
the  floor  in  the  parlor,  and  the  rest  of  us  were  shown  to 
our  room ! It  was  a very  large  one,  and  divided  by  an 
immense  muslin  curtain,  stretched  from  one  side  to  the 
other.  There  we  found  two  double  beds  and  one  single 
one,  prepared  for  the  accommodation  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
B.,  Miss  W.,  and  ourselves.  By  moving  the  single  one 
outside  of  the  curtain,  and  making  some  changes  in  the 
arrangement  of  the  other  two,  we  finally  adjusted  our- 
selves to  the  unusual  conditions,  with  enough  amusement 
to  repay  us  for  any  inconvenience  suffered. 


Queretaro,  July  8,  1880. 

My  long  journey  came  to  a safe  termination  yesterday 
afternoon  at  three  o’clock.  The  trip  from  Mexico  City 
to  Huehuetoca  was  about  as  usual,  but  on  arriving  there 
I found  that  every  seat  was  taken  in  the  coach.  We  were 
nine  inside  and  three  outside  passengers,  five  of  the  num- 
ber women.  One  of  them  went  only  to  Nopala,  and  one  of 
the  men  left  at  Tula,  but  all  the  way  to  Queretaro  the 
inside  of  the  coach  was  full.  Before  we  were  out  of  sight 
of  Huehuetoca  we  found  that  the  roads  were  in  a de- 
testable condition,  and  soon  all  the  men  were  obliged  to 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


131 


get  down  and  walk  quite  a distance  while  the  coach,  very 
much  overloaded  with  the  mails  and  baggage,  labored 
through  the  almost  bottomless  mud  holes. 

We  left  Huehuetoca  at  ten  o’clock,  and  did  not  reach 
Tula  till  five  in  the  afternoon.  Seven  hours  to  advance 
eight  leagues!  As  I ate  nothing  at  H.  and  only  tried  to 
prop  failing  nature  with  a few  bananas,  a tortilla,  and 
a small  piece  of  very  bad  cheese  on  the  way,  you  can  im- 
agine in  what  a state  I was  by  this  time!  Here,  however, 
we  had  dinner,  and  at  six  o’clock  were  off  for  San  An- 
tonio, where  we  arrived  three  hours  later.  Just  before 
we  reached  there  we  stuck  in  the  mud,  and  all  the  men 
were  obliged  to  alight  for  the  third  time.  It  was  pitch 
dark,  the  mud  partly  stiffened  in  the  first  stage  of  drying, 
with  frequent  soft  places  in  which  some  of  my  companions 
sank  up  to  their  knees.  I fortunately  escaped  that. 

The  coachman  concluded  to  stop  at  San  Antonio  for 
the  night,  and  after  vibrating  between  the  cheerless  house 
belonging  to  the  hacienda  and  the  more  desolate  meson 
across  the  road,  the  churlish  gachupin  in  the  store  con- 
cluded to  give  us  rooms  in  the  former.  I passed  a rather 
uncomfortable  night.  We  were  up  at  five  in  the  morning 
and,  after  chocolate,  continued  on  our  way,  arriving  at 
El  Destello  at  three  in  the  afternoon.  Had  a fair  dinner 
and  hurried  on,  reaching  San  Juan  del  Rio  at  half  past 
nine  that  night.  At  the  unanimous  request  of  the  pas- 
sengers we  were  allowed  a little  rest,  had  supper,  went  to 
bed  for  three  hours,  were  called  at  three  a.  m.,  and  started 
for  Queretaro.  During  the  day  we  had  to  get  down  twice 
and  walk  for  considerable  distances,  but  finally  arrived 
at  our  destination  about  three  o’clock  in  the  afternoon. 

Brother  Cordova  met  me  and  took  me  to  the  Mission 
house,  and  after  a little  conversation  and  some  refresh- 
ments, I laid  me  down  and  slept,  with  slight  intervals  of 
half  consciousness  till  midnight.  Then  I undressed  and 


132 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


slept  again  till  seven  o’clock  this  morning,  which  rested 
me  all  at  once  and  very  thoroughly ! 

To-day  various  people  have  called,  and  Brother  C.  and 
I have  called  on  several  others,  and  had  considerable  con- 
versation with  them  on  the  situation  here.  Looking  over 
the  whole  ground  as  far  as  possible,  I am  persuaded  that 
it  is  not  best  to  open  public  services  here  just  now.  The 
state  of  the  country  is  too  unsettled,  and  the  friends  here 
are  not  quite  ready  for  it.  To-night  we  are  to  have  a 
little  meeting  in  Cordova’s  dining  room,  and  baptize  his 
infant  daughter,  Sara  Publia.  . . . 

Puebla,  July  27,  1S80. 

I reached  here  safely  Saturday  morning,  but  did  not 
sleep  much  on  the  train,  and  did  not  lie  down  at  all  after 
getting  here.  At  eleven  o’clock  we  started  to  Apizaco, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Greenman,  Mr.  Luders,  and  myself,  and 
half  a dozen  boys  from  the  orphanage  to  assist  in  the 
singing.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Greenman  had  a room  at  Coronel’s, 
Mr.  Luders  and  I had  beds  at  Mr.  Cocliegrus’s  house,  and 
the  boys  slept  in  the  chapel,  having  brought  with  them 
their  blankets  and  pillow's.  Brother  Palacios  and  his 
son  arrived  early  Sunday  morning,  and  I took  a room  for 
them  in  the  hotel.  The  boys’  food  W’as  carried  to  them 
from  the  Fonda,  and  the  rest  of  us  wrent  there  for  our 
meals. 

Our  chapel  looks  very  neat  and  I am  quite  pleased  with 
it.  Sunday  morning  by  half  past  ten,  we  had  a good  con- 
gregation, and  before  Brother  Palacios  began  to  preach, 
every  seat  was  full  and  many  w'ere  standing.  He  preached 
well  and  the  people  were  exceedingly  attentive.  About 
a hundred  and  twenty  wrere  present,  and  wre  dedicated 
the  place  formally  to  public  w'orship.  In  the  afternoon 
w'e  had  a short  social  meeting,  with  twenty-five  or  thirty 
people. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


133 


At  night  long  before  service  commenced,  we  had  the 
house  full.  We  had  borrowed  two  dozen  more  chairs,  and 
every  seat  was  occupied  and  many  standing.  There  were 
at  least  a hundred  and  fifty  persons  present.  I baptized 
a child  before  the  sermon,  we  celebrated  the  Lord’s  Sup- 
per, with  about  eighty  communicants,  and  Brother  Pala- 
cios preached  again.  We  took  a collection  of  $5.20.  The 
day  was  very  favorable  and  all  seemed  to  enjoy  it  greatly. 
I think  a very  good  impression  was  made  in  favor  of  our 
cause. 

We  all  came  back  to  Puebla  Monday  morning,  but  I 
must  return  to  Apizaco  on  my  way  home,  and  stay  a day 
or  two,  to  try  and  get  some  help  for  our  debt  there.  . . . 

Two  weeks  later  he  was  called  to  Puebla,  by  the  sudden 
and  alarming  illness  of  Mr.  Luders,  who  had  fallen  un- 
conscious and  remained  so  for  several  hours.  Some  tem- 
porary arrangement  was  made  for  his  work,  and  as  soon 
as  he  rallied  sufficiently,  my  husband  took  him  to  Orizava 
and  left  him,  hoping  that  the  change  and  a few  weeks’ 
rest  would  restore  him  to  his  usual  health. 

(To  his  Father) 

Mexico  City,  September  21,  1880. 

Our  home  letters  came  this  morning,  the  first  we  have 
had  for  six  weeks!  You  have  doubtless  heard  of  the  loss 
at  sea,  August  29,  off  the  Florida  coast,  of  the  steamer 
City  of  Vera  Cruz,  bound  for  Vera  Cruz.  The  loss  was 
terrible,  only  eleven  persons  being  saved.  A very  curious 
thing  happened  in  connection  with  the  wreck.  Of  course 
the  mail  bags  went  down  with  the  ship,  but  some  of  them 
washed  up  ou  the  beach  at  Saint  Augustine,  their  con- 
tents were  dried  and  forwarded  to  their  destination. 
Three  or  four  of  these  letters  were  received  here  to-day. 


134 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


It  seems  the  more  remarkable  when  it  is  remembered 
that  the  wreck  occurred  thirty  miles  from  land.  About 
the  time  of  this  disaster  the  New  Orleans  steamer  suffered 
such  injury  in  a storm  that  she  was  compelled  to  turn 
back  from  Matamoros  to  New  Orleans,  and  her  mails 
were  dispatched  over  land  and  have  not  yet  arrived. 

Ada  has  been  in  Puebla  for  the  last  two  weeks,  attend- 
ing to  the  children’s  clothes  and  various  other  things 
which  urgently  required  her  attention,  on  account  of 
Mr.  Luders’s  illness.  I have  been  exceedingly  busy  here, 
preparing  the  estimates  for  our  Mission  for  next  year. 
They  are  all  finished  at  last  and  I hope  will  be  approved 
as  they  stand.  They  have  cost  me  no  little  work  and 
anxiety.  I was  at  them  last  night  till  midnight,  and 
again  this  morning  at  six  o’clock.  If  the  authorities 
could  only  see  matters  as  I do,  we  would  have  more  money 
for  our  work. 

Several  things  have  occurred  here  recently  which  have 
awakened  a great  deal  of  interest.  Congress  assembled 
September  16  and  it  seems  likely  we  shall  have  a peace- 
ful change  in  the  administration.  Two  grand  railway 
concessions  have  been  granted;  providing  for  the  con- 
struction of  two  lines  to  the  Pacific  Coast  and  two  lines 
through  to  the  northern  frontier.  . . . 

i 

A month  later,  in  company  with  Mr.  Greenman,  he 
made  a trip  north  to  Queretaro,  Irapuato,  Celaya,  and 
Guanajuato.  We  quote  the  following  details  from  a 
letter  dated  Queretaro,  October  21 : Our  first  day’s  jour- 
ney was  without  special  incident,  and  we  arrived  at  El 
Destello  at  nine  o’clock  at  night.  At  Tula  we  ate  our 
home  lunch,  which  proved  very  satisfactory  and  saved  us 
two  dollars.  We  were  both  very  tired  when  we  reached 
the  end  of  the  day’s  journey,  but  slept  well  and  were  off 
again  the  next  morning  at  half  past  five. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


135 


We  should  have  reached  Queretaro  at  six  o’clock  in  the 
evening,  but  did  not  get  there  till  nearly  two  in  the  morn- 
ing. The  roads  were  in  a terrible  condition,  as  you  may 
imagine  from  our  delay.  Brother  Cordova  came  to  meet 
us,  having  heard  the  stage  pass  the  house.  We  came  here 
and  found  comfortable  beds  awaiting  us.  We  had  in- 
tended to  go  on  to  Guanajuato,  to  be  present  at  the  dedi- 
cation next  Sunday,  but  the  coach  did  not  go,  a dam 
having  broken  away  some  leagues  from  here,  and  the 
water  flooding  the  road,  completely  upsetting  all  the 
arrangements  of  the  stages. 

We  then  thought  of  trying  to  go  to  Celaya  on  horse- 
back, in  the  hope  of  getting  through  from  there  to  Guana- 
juato ; but  we  were  strongly  advised  to  desist,  on  account 
of  the  danger  of  robbery  and  the  probability  of  not  being 
able  to  get  through  in  time  for  Sunday.  This  failure  to 
be  on  time  is  very  annoying  to  me,  but  it  is  due  to  cir- 
cumstances beyond  my  control,  and  I must  make  the 
best  of  it.  . . . 


October  24. 

Yesterday  morning  we  took  a coach  and  went  out  to 
the  Serro  de  las  Campanas,  where  Maximilian  was  shot. 
In  the  afternoon  we  went  to  call  on  Manuel  Franco,  the 
man  who  saved  the  life  of  Mr.  Phillip,  the  Presbyterian 
missionary,  who  was  attacked  here  some  time  ago.  We 
met  there  the  editor  of  La  Sombra  de  Arteaga.  On  Sun- 
day we  held  a service,  with  six  persons  present  besides 
the  preacher  and  his  family.  I preached  about  the  con- 
version of  the  Philippian  jailer.  . . . 


Celaya,  October  26. 

We  left  Queretaro  Monday  morning  at  six  o’clock,  by 
a private  stage,  paying  two  dollars  for  our  passage  to 
this  place.  Our  journey  was  without  other  notable  in- 


136 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


eident  than  that  about  two  leagues  out  of  Celaya  we  came 
upon  the  stage  which  had  just  been  upset,  and  had  to 
take  in  part  of  the  wrecked  passengers,  two  ladies,  two 
maids,  and  four  children.  They  were  nearly  all  badly 
scratched,  and  worse  frightened.  We  had  breakfast  by 
the  way  for  twenty  cents  each.  Our  room  here  will  cost 
us  sixty-two  cents  each,  and  our  supper  thirty-seven 
cents.  So  you  see  we  are  learning  to  travel  cheaply. 
The  two  railways  to  the  frontier  are  to  intersect  at  this 
place.  . . . 

Guanajuato,  October  28. 

Tuesday  morning  we  were  up  and  off  before  five  o’clock 
on  the  next  stage  of  our  journey,  to  Irapuato,  fourteen 
leagues  distant.  The  cars  were  such  as  are  used  on  our 
street  railroads  at  home  in  summer,  open  on  all  sides,  so 
as  to  give  a fine  view  of  the  country  and  plenty  of  venti- 
lation. The  cars  are  drawn  by  horses  and  mules,  changed 
at  short  distances.  We  reached  Irapuato  about  ten 
o’clock,  and  two  hours  later  took  the  diligence  for  this 
place,  arriving  at  six  o’clock. 

I find  the  new  chapel  exceedingly  neat  and  tasteful  and 
capable  of  accommodating  as  many  as  three  hundred 
people.  It  was  dedicated  last  Sunday,  as  Brother  Craver 
did  not  get  word  of  the  impossibility  of  my  being  here 
till  it  was  too  late  to  change  the  arrangements.  The 
attendance  was  very  large,  and  though  a few  stones  were 
thrown,  there  was  no  serious  disturbance. 

The  dwelling  house  affords  five  good  rooms,  besides 
those  of  the  servants,  and  when  it  is  all  put  in  repair 
the  accommodations  will  be  even  more  ample.  . . . 


Queretaro,  November  4. 

We  had  quite  a good  love  feast  Sunday  afternoon  in 
Guanajuato.  A number  spoke  and  very  well.  I preached 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


137 


at  night  and  afterward  we  administered  the  sacrament 
to  a large  number  of  communicants.  The  attendance  was 
very  large;  the  church  and  classroom  adjoining  were 
full,  and  a great  many  were  out  in  the  front  yard  listen- 
ing through  the  open  window. 

The  hour  of  our  retiring  Sunday  night  was  made  very 
late  by  callers  after  church.  On  Monday  we  talked  over 
official  matters,  went  to  see  a lawyer,  and  in  the  late 
afternoon  rode  out  to  the  Parkman  gardens.  In  the  eve- 
ning we  had  a call  from  two  of  the  Parkmans.  After  their 
departure  we  held  the  Quarterly  Conference,  organizing 
it  for  the  first  time.  We  had  an  interesting  session  and 
the  brethren  seemed  pleased  with  the  result. 

During  our  stay  in  Guanajuato  I preached  five  times 
and  the  attendance  on  all  the  preaching  services  was  very 
large  and  attentive.  We  left  there  Tuesday  morning  and 
reached  Irapuato  just  too  late  for  the  train,  so  had  to 
remain  there  till  the  next  day.  We  arrived  in  Celaya  the 
following  afternoon  at  three  o’clock.  Here  we  met  two 
Americans  on  their  way  to  the  interior  and  had  some 
talk  with  them  about  the  recent  elections  in  the  States. 

We  left  Celaya  this  morning  at  six  o’clock  and  reached 
here  at  noon.  Brother  Cordova  has  suffered  some  an- 
noyance since  we  went  away,  but  it  has  not  been  of  a 
very  serious  nature.  Brother  Greenman  will  remain  here 
for  the  next  few  weeks,  preparatory  for  his  final  establish- 
ment here  after  Annual  Meeting.  I am  sorry  for  the 
loneliness  he  must  necessarily  experience,  but  I think  the 
result  will  be  favorable  to  our  cause  and  his  success.  I 
am  sure  he  is  equal  to  the  test.  . . . Then  too  he  will  be 
relieved  of  all  anxiety  about  Mrs.  Greenman,  since  she 
will  remain  with  us  until  his  return.  . . . 

Two  weeks  later  Mr.  Drees  went  to  Orizaba  on  his 
quarterly  visit,  expecting  to  go  on  to  Yera  Cruz  to  meet 


138 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


Miss  Hastings  on  her  return  from  her  vacation.  Miss 
Hastings  was  the  first  appointee  of  the  Woman’s  Foreign 
Missionary  Society  in  Mexico,  and  had  been  in  charge  of 
their  schools  in  Pachuca  for  several  years. 

Puebla,  December  14,  1880. 

On  reaching  Orizaba,  I heard  such  alarming  reports  of 
the  prevalence  of  yellow  fever  in  Vera  Cruz,  and  the 
brethren  protested  so  strongly  against  my  exposing  my- 
self to  the  danger  of  the  disease,  which  seems  to  be  pe- 
culiarly fatal  this  season,  that  I gave  up  the  idea  of  going 
to  meet  Miss  Hastings  and  decided  to  wait  for  her  in 
Orizaba. 

I wrote  to  our  agents  in  Vera  Cruz  to  do  everything  for 
her  which  the  circumstances  may  require,  and  also  to 
Mrs.  Trowbridge,  the  wife  of  the  American  Consul,  ask- 
ing her  kind  offices,  so  no  doubt  she  will  be  well  taken 
care  of. 

We  held  Quarterly  Conference  in  Orizaba  the  night 
after  I reached  there,  and  I preached  in  both  English  and 
Spanish  the  next  day.  Miss  Hastings  arrived  on  Friday, 
and  I went  with  her  to  Ometuseo,  where  we  found  our 
guayin  and  Brother  Barker's  porter  waiting  for  us.  This 
man  had  never  seen  the  cars  before,  and  was  greatly 
astonished  at  them. 

We  reached  Pachuca  about  half  past  three,  half  an  hour 
ahead  of  the  regular  diligence,  though  we  went  the  whole 
twelve  leagues  with  one  set  of  mules.  Miss  Hastings  re- 
ceived a warm  welcome  and  seemed  very  happy  to  return 
to  her  work  again.  Several  of  us  took  tea  with  her  and 
Miss  Warner  that  afternoon. 

The  next  day  I conducted  class  meeting  from  eight  to 
nine,  preached  in  Spanish  at  eleven,  and  in  the  afternoon 
in  English.  After  this  service  I convened  the  Quarterly 
Conference,  which  lasted  till  half  past  six,  had  supper 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


139 


and  went  to  church  again  at  half  past  seven.  Gamboa 
preached  and  I baptized  a child. 

After  church  I had  a long  talk  with  Brother  Barker 
about  some  very  perplexing  matters,  which  conversation 
lasted  till  after  midnight.  Monday  morning  we  went  to 
Tezontepec,  where  I preached  a short  sermon  on  baptism, 
and  baptized  a child.  After  dinner  I went  to  visit  the 
school,  and  at  three  o’clock  we  set  out  on  horseback  for 
Ometusco ; Gamboa,  Euroza,  and  two  of  Mr.  Orozco’s 
people.  We  reached  our  destination,  five  leagues  dis- 
tant, at  six  o’clock,  had  supper,  and  then  my  companions 
started  back. 

I read  for  a couple  of  hours,  slept  half  an  hour,  and 
then  was  called  to  take  the  train.  Found  Brother  and 
Sister  Greenman  on  their  way  to  Puebla  and  got  into  the 
same  compartment  with  them.  On  arriving  at  Puebla 
we  found  Brother  Luders  and  several  of  the  boys  waiting 
for  us  at  the  station,  and  when  we  reached  the  house  a 
fire  was  blazing  in  the  parlor  and  everything  looked 
cheerful,  and  as  neat  and  clean  as  a new  pin. 

To-day  I must  attend  the  examinations,  and  to-night 
hold  Quarterly  Conference.  I hope  to  be  home  Friday. 
Four  of  the  boys  will  go  to  spend  their  Christmas  holi- 
days with  us.  . . . 


CHAPTER  VIII 


The  first  event  of  importance  in  the  new  year  1881  was 
the  Annual  Meeting,  held  in  Mexico  City,  in  January. 
Mr.  Drees  was  authorized  to  preside,  in  the  absence  of 
the  bishop,  and  everything  passed  off  very  pleasantly  and 
harmoniously.  We  gave  a reception  to  the  members  of 
the  Mission,  inviting  the  representatives  of  all  the  other 
Protestant  churches  in  the  city,  and  moi’e  than  fifty  were 
present. 

We  entertained  several  of  the  missionaries  during  the 
Annual  Meeting,  and  some  of  them  arrived  a week  in  ad- 
vance and  remained  a week  after  the  session  closed. 
Finally  they  all  got  off  to  their  various  appointments, 
the  last  eight,  with  their  children  and  servants,  having 
breakfast  with  us  one  morning  at  five  o’clock,  and  start- 
ing away  in  a private  diligence  to  their  distant  fields  of 
labor  in  the  interior. 

The  middle  of  February  we  went  to  Puebla,  aud  I re- 
mained there  while  Mr.  Drees  made  his  first  quarterly 
visit  of  this  year  to  Orizaba  aud  Cordova. 


Orizava,  February  24,  1881. 

I had  quite  a comfortable  journey  last  night  from 
Puebla  here,  arriving  about  ten  o’clock  this  morning. 
Brother  Umpleby  met  me  at  the  station  and  brought  me 
to  their  house,  which  is  quite  pleasant  and  homelike. 
Mrs.  Umpleby  is  well,  and  all  absorbed  in  George  II. 
Both  the  brethren  have  unbosomed  their  sorrows  to 


140 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


141 


me  and  the  situation  here  is  very  perplexing.  I am  try- 
ing to  have  patience  and  wisdom  enough  to  do  just  what 
the  circumstances  seem  to  require,  and  they  certainly  re- 
quire something. 

We  had  service  this  evening  and  I preached  and  held 
communion  service.  The  attendance  was  large,  com- 
pletely filling  the  chapel.  To-morrow  night  we  are  to  hold 
a short  service,  followed  by  Quarterly  Conference. 
Saturday  morning  we  will  go  to  Cordoba,  where  we  will 
remain  over  Sunday,  to  receive  a number  of  people  into 
the  church,  preach,  and  hold  communion  service.  . . . 

Cordoba,  February  26. 

I was  up  at  half  past  five  yesterday  morning,  and  went 
to  the  railroad  station  to  send  off  some  letters  I had  writ- 
ten the  night  before.  Brother  Baillet  came  up  from  Cor- 
doba and  we  walked  up  to  Brother  Umpleby’s  for  break- 
fast. I spent  most  of  the  morning  and  afternoon  as  well, 
getting  off  one  long  and  difficult  letter  and  several  brief 
ones. 

At  seven  o’clock  we  had  service;  Baillet  preached  and 
I baptized  a poor  little  baby.  His  mother  thought  it 
would  be  a breach  of  most  sacred  proprieties  to  bring 
forward  the  child  with  its  bottle,  so  she  left  the  latter 
behind  in  the  seat  and  brought  the  baby  whose  squalling 
protest  might  have  been  heard  at  an  incredible  distance. 
“A  prudent  man  foreseeth  the  evil,”  so  I sent  them  back 
for  the  bottle.  So  the  service  began  with  an  undercurrent 
of  sound  from  the  rapid  gurgling  of  the  lacteal  blessing 
down  that  infant’s  gullet. 

Occasionally  the  parents  would  slip  the  bottle  away 
and  the  father  would  furtively  tuck  it  under  his  arm,  but 
the  baby’s  protest  always  brought  it  forth  again.  When 
I came  to  take  the  child  in  my  arms,  I could  hardly 
manage  baptism  and  baby  and  bottle,  so  the  latter  was 


142 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


left  behind.  But  the  illustrious  namesake  and  probable 
descendant  of  Ishmael  seemed  to  appreciate  the  exigen- 
cies of  the  case  and  the  peculiar  delicacy  of  my  situation, 
and  did  not  cry  at  all  till  I was  well  through  with  the 
performance  of  my  duty.  Imagine  my  triumph! 

After  church  we  held  Quarterly  Conference,  and  after 
that  I had  a long  talk  with  Brother  Umpleby,  and  did 
not  get  to  bed  till  midnight.  This  morning  I wrote  a 
little  more,  got  my  things  in  order  and  we  came  to  Cor- 
doba, arriving  here  at  noon.  After  dinner  I went  with 
the  two  brethren  to  call  at  Judge  Sariol’s  and  Dr.  Rus- 
sell’s, and  later  we  went  house  hunting.  Cordoba  is  as 
beautiful  as  when  we  were  here;  the  weather  to-day  has 
been  delightful. 

To-morrow  we  will  have  three  services,  and  I may  have 
to  remain  here  over  Monday,  but  at  latest  will  go  to  Ori- 
zava  Tuesday  morning,  and  hope  to  reach  home  Thursday 
afternoon.  . . . 

As  soon  as  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Greenman  were  settled  in 
Queretaro,  after  the  Annual  Meeting,  he  and  Mr.  Cordova, 
who  had  already  been  there  several  months,  began  or 
rather  continued  to  hold  meetings  in  a quiet  way,  and 
the  time  seemed  to  have  come  when  they  might  be  opened 
to  the  public.  We  went  up  there  to  be  present  on  that 
occasion,  and  Mr.  Drees  had  planned  to  help  in  a series 
of  special  services  the  following  week. 

On  our  arrival  we  found  that  a few  days  previous, 
the  bishop  of  that  diocese  had  published  a circular  letter, 
threatening  excommunication  to  every  one  who,  in  any 
way,  should  help  the  Protestants,  either  by  selling  them 
provisions  or  supplies  of  any  other  kind,  attending  their 
services  or  having  any  communication  whatever  with 
them.  Mention  was  made  in  the  circular  of  the  names 
of  the  missionaries,  describing  their  houses  and  giving  the 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


143 


street  and  number,  as  well  as  the  name  and  address  of 
another  missionary,  living  in  a town  near  Queretaro. 

This  letter  was  ordered  to  be  read  in  all  the  churches 
of  the  diocese  in  every  mass  or  other  service  for  a few 
weeks.  It  had  been  read  for  the  first  time  the  Sunday 
before  we  reached  there,  and  as  a natural  consequence, 
the  Protestants  had  been  subjected  to  all  manner  of  in- 
sults and  annoyances  ever  since.  A crowd  had  gathered 
in  front  of  the  Mission  house  the  previous  Sunday,  and 
an  attack  was  feared,  but  nothing  violent  was  done. 

After  much  deliberation,  and  in  view  of  the  threaten- 
ing aspect  of  the  situation,  Mr.  Drees  sent  a communica- 
tion to  the  Governor,  stating  the  grounds  of  our  appre- 
hension and  asking  protection  ; but  he  received  no  answer. 
To  avoid  any  appearance  of  fear  or  consciousness  of  ill 
feeling  on  the  part  of  the  people,  we  went  out  to  the  public 
square  in  the  evening  and  walked  about  among  them, 
listening  to  the  music  and  talking  together  as  if  we  were 
in  the  midst  of  friends,  though  we  felt  the  hostility  there 
was  in  the  very  atmosphere. 

The  next  morning  before  eight  o’clock,  the  people  began 
gathering  in  the  street  in  front  of  the  house,  and  in  a 
short  time  the  small  square  facing  the  Mission  building 
was  filled  with  a threatening  crowd  of  men  and  boys, 
and  a few  women.  Soon  a stone  crashed  against  the 
street  door  and  then  a volley  against  doors  and  windows, 
and  within  an  hour  nearly  every  pane  of  glass  in  the  front 
windows  was  broken.  Still  the  mob  continued  stoning  the 
house,  calling  on  us  to  come  out,  screaming  insulting 
epithets,  and  acting  like  demons. 

By  this  time,  the  situation  became  so  alarming,  that  the 
Governor  appeared  on  the  scene,  accompanied  by  the 
Mayor  and  two  or  three  other  officials,  and  passing 
through  the  crowd  said  a few  words  to  them  in  a friendly 
way,  and  urged  them  to  disperse.  The  crowd  cheered. 


144 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


and  many  followed  him,  but  soon  came  back  with  renewed 
violence.  Mr.  Cordova  then  suggested  and  insisted  upon 
going  into  the  balcony  and  speaking  to  the  people,  urging 
that  a few  words  from  him,  one  of  their  own  countrymen, 
would  disabuse  their  minds  and  induce  them  to  go  away. 

This  did  not  prove  to  be  the  case,  and  after  listening  to 
him  for  only  a moment,  they  began  shouting  derisive  and 
offensive  epithets  at  him,  and  before  any  one  of  better 
judgment  and  more  calmness  could  interfere,  he  drew  a 
revolver  and  fired  into  the  air;  hoping,  as  he  afterward 
said,  that  this  would  intimidate  them.  The  crowd  scat- 
tered instantly,  but  returned  almost  at  once  with  even 
greater  fury  to  the  attack,  and  we  would  have  fared  badly 
had  not  the  rural  guards  arrived  at  that  opportune 
moment.  There  was  only  a small  squad  of  them,  but 
they  dashed  in  from  both  sides  of  the  square  and  rode 
through  the  crowd,  striking  right  and  left  with  their 
broad  flat  swords,  and  scattered  the  mob  in  all  directions. 

By  this  time  the  whole  city  was  in  commotion,  and  the 
Governor  ordered  out  a mounted  guard  of  the  Federal 
troops  to  be  scattered  in  front  of  the  Mission  building, 
and  another  to  patrol  the  city  the  rest  of  the  day  and  the 
following  night. 

About  two  o’clock  a judge  with  his  secretary  and 
another  official  came  to  arrest  the  one  who  had  fired  the 
revolver,  saying  that  he  had  wounded  a boy  who  had 
since  died.  They  took  my  husband’s  testimony  of  the 
events  of  the  morning,  and  at  his  urgent  request,  allowed 
Mr.  Cordova  to  remain  a prisoner  in  the  house,  as  it  was 
well  guarded,  and  we  feared  the  consequences  of  deliver- 
ing him  into  their  hands.  Soon  after  dark,  however,  the 
Chief  of  Police  came  with  an  order  to  take  him  to  prison 
and  he  had  to  go. 

Early  the  next  morning  two  special  police  were  sent  to 
remain  in  the  house  and  go  on  errands  for  us  and  accom- 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


145 


pany  any  one  who  had  to  go  out  in  the  street.  About 
nine  o’clock  Mr.  Drees  sent  for  a coach  to  go  and  see  Cor- 
dova and  to  engage  a lawyer  to  defend  him,  and  to  the 
telegraph  office  to  send  word  to  Mexico  City.  As  soon 
as  he  got  into  the  coach,  although  the  two  policemen  were 
on  the  box  with  the  driver,  the  people  came  rushing  down 
the  street,  from  every  direction,  following  and  crowding 
so  close  to  the  coach  that  he  could  have  touched  them  on 
either  side.  He  was  out  till  early  noon,  calling  at  the 
Palace,  the  lawyer’s  office,  and  other  places,  and  that 
crowd  of  three  hundred  or  more  followed  him  all  the  way, 
and  onty  dispersed  when  he  reached  the  house  because  the 
guard  drove  them  away. 

In  spite  of  this  discouraging  episode  we  still  intended 
to  remain  and  hold  the  services  as  planned,  only  post- 
poning them  until  “a  more  convenient  season,”  but  two 
days  later  the  Federal  judge  came  to  say  that  the  govern- 
ment troops  in  the  city  were  under  marching  orders,  and 
the  police  force  was  not  sufficient  to  afford  the  necessary 
protection  in  case  of  another  attack,  which  was  already 
threatened,  and  urged  us  to  return  to  Mexico  City  for 
the  present.  The  Governor  also  sent  a message  to  the 
same  effect,  advising  and  urging  us  by  all  means  to  leave 
at  once.  To  facilitate  matters,  he  offered  to  send  a special 
conveyance  and  escort  to  take  us  as  far  on  the  way  as 
might  be  necessary  to  insure  our  safety. 

There  seemed  to  be  no  alternative,  so  most  reluctantly, 
we  began  our  preparations  for  the  journey,  which  had  to 
be  made  with  the  greatest  secrecy.  All  the  books,  pictures, 
bed  and  table  linen  of  the  two  families  were  hurriedly 
packed,  and  the  china  and  bric-a-brac  carried  to  the  roof 
in  baskets  and  let  down  over  the  back  wall  to  the  next 
door  neighbor.  This  was  Manuel  Franco,  a very  liberal 
Mexican  gentleman,  who  sympathized  with  us  and  our 
cause  and  who  a few  years  before  had  rescued,  almost  at 


146 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


the  risk  of  his  own  life,  the  Presbyterian  minister  who 
had  attempted  to  hold  services  in  Queretaro.  An  inven- 
tory was  made  of  all  the  heavy  furniture  left  in  the  house, 
and  these  were  delivered  into  the  custody  of  the  Chief  of 
Police. 

At  two  o’clock  in  the  morning,  the  diligence  arrived  and 
rattled  noisily  into  the  large  paved  courtyard,  preceded 
by  a mounted  guard  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  men.  The 
baggage  was  piled  on  the  rear  of  the  stage  and  the  pas- 
sengers, fourteen  in  all,  including  the  children  and  two 
servants,  were  soon  in  their  places  and  ready  to  start. 
Our  friend  and  neighbor,  a picturesque  figure  in  his  wide 
Mexican  sombrero,  and  shrouded  to  his  eyes  in  his  serape, 
came  in  at  the  last  moment,  saw  us  comfortably  settled 
in  the  stage,  and  gave  the  signal  to  start.  It  was  a 
strange  scene  and  not  easily  forgotten ! 

The  moon  had  gone  down,  but  the  stars  were  still  shin- 
ing, and  the  whole  city  was  quiet  as  the  grave.  A boy 
on  horseback  rode  ahead,  carrying  a torch,  then  followed 
the  diligence,  drawn  by  eight  mules,  and  after  that  the 
guard  of  cavalry,  a unique  procession ! 

We  were  all  very  tired,  but  the  excitement  of  the  pre- 
vious days  prevented  our  sleeping,  and  the  few  remaining 
hours  of  the  night  seemed  very  long.  Soon  after  daylight, 
the  officer  in  command  of  the  guard  gave  orders  to  halt 
and  announcing  that  we  were  now  beyond  the  limits  of 
the  State  line  and  in  no  further  danger,  and  that  his 
instructions  were  to  leave  us  at  this  point,  gave  us  a 
friendly  salute,  wishing  us  a safe  and  pleasant  journey, 
and  with  his  men  galloped  off. 

About  ten  o’clock  we  reached  a town  where  there  was 
a fairly  good  hotel,  and  decided  to  spend  the  rest  of  the 
day  and  night  there,  but  in  a few  minutes  the  Chief  of 
Police  arrived  and  suggested  that  we  go  on,  as  he  feared 
trouble  if  we  remained,  as  he  had  not  sufficient  force  to 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


147 


protect  us.  We  then  arranged  to  leave  at  four  o’clock, 
but  before  that  time  a regiment  of  artillery,  on  the  way 
to  Mexico  City,  came  into  town  to  remain  over  night. 
Mr.  Drees  went  to  the  officer  in  command  and  told  him 
our  situation,  and  he  promised  help  in  case  of  necessity, 
so  we  concluded  to  stay  and  rest  a few  more  hours,  and 
did  not  leave  till  four  o’clock  the  next  morning. 

One  of  our  local  preachers  came  to  see  us  in  the  eve- 
ning, and  told  us  some  of  his  experiences,  during  the  last 
few  weeks.  The  first  Sunday  the  Bishop's  letter  was  read, 
he  was  passing  the  principal  clnirch,  just  as  the  people 
were  coming  out,  and  a man  whom  he  had  once  taken  to 
his  own  house  and  nursed  through  a dangerous  illness, 
came  up  and  spat  in  his  face,  in  the  presence  of  all  the 
people.  Fernandez,  the  preacher,  only  wiped  his  face 
and  passed  on,  without  a word.  Several,  twenty,  or  more, 
followed  him  to  his  house  and  stood  about  the  door,  insult- 
ing, annoying  and  threatening  him  and  his  family  for 
some  time.  At  last  he  went  out  and  talked  quietly  to 
them  for  a few  moments,  urging  them  to  go  away,  which 
they  finally  did. 

He  said  he  intended  to  stay  and  do  his  duty  as  long  as 
it  were  possible,  and  that  he  was  trying  to  recommend 
his  religion  by  his  life.  He  seemed  most  patient,  and 
hopeful  and  full  of  faith  for  the  future,  discouraging  as 
the  present  outlook  was. 

We  started  on  the  second  stage  of  our  journey  the  next 
morning,  long  before  daylight,  and  except  for  an  hour 
at  a wayside  inn  where  we  stopped  for  lunch  at  noon,  we 
were  on  the  road  the  whole  day  and  until  seven  o’clock  in 
the  evening.  It  was  excessively  hot  and  dusty,  and  we 
were  very  tired  by  night  and  did  not  get  any  supper  till 
ten  o’clock. 

The  next  morning  at  five  we  were  up  and  off  on  our 
last  day’s  journey,  and  at  four  in  the  afternoon  reached 


148 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


the  end  of  the  diligence  route.  Here  we  took  the  train 
for  Mexico  City,  where  we  arrived  at  eight  o’clock,  and 
two  hours  later  Mrs.  Greenman  gave  birth  to  a little 
daughter. 

While  we  were  having  this  trouble  in  Queretaro,  our 
Mexican  preacher  in  Apizaco,  Monroy,  and  two  members 
of  his  congregation  were  attacked,  not  far  from  the  town, 
by  fourteen  men,  and  murdered  in  a most  brutal  and 
cowardly  manner. 

The  following  month,  we  were  cheered  by  the  arrival 
of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Kemble,  under  appointment  to  Leon. 
They  were  bright,  ambitious  young  people  from  Ohio,  and 
Mr.  Kemble  had  recently  graduated  from  the  North- 
western University.  They  spent  a few  days  in  Mexico 
City,  and  then  went  on  to  Guanajuato  to  take  charge  of 
the  work  there  during  the  absence  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Graver, 
who  had  been  granted  a six  months’  furlough. 

In  the  meantime,  all  sorts  of  reports  of  the  state  of 
affairs  in  Queretaro  had  reached  Mexico  City;  the  people 
declaring  that  they  would  never  allow  a Protestant  service 
to  be  held  in  that  city,  sending  their  emissaries  every 
evening  to  meet  the  diligence  some  distance  from  town, 
to  see  whether  any  foreigner  or  suspicious  looking  person 
was  among  the  passengers,  and  in  case  there  should  be 
such,  put  an  end  to  his  journey  then  and  there,  and  many 
other  such  threats. 

However,  as  soon  as  Mr.  Drees  was  able  to  travel,  for 
he  was  quite  ill  for  several  weeks,  he  started  north  again 
to  make  his  quarterly  visit  to  Guanajuato,  and  see  if  it 
were  possible  to  return  to  Queretaro.  He  wrote  from 

El  Destello,  June  15,  1881. 

I arrived  here  safely  at  nine  o’clock.  There  were  only 
Gamboa,  myself,  and  one  other  person  in  the  stage,  so 
we  had  plenty  of  room  and  plenty  of  bouncing  as  well. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


149 


I have  just  had  a chat  with  Saturnino,  the  coachman, 
who  takes  us  on  to  Queretaro  to  morrow.  He  says  that 
there  has  not  at  any  time  been  anyone  seen  to  watch  the 
arrival  of  the  stage  or  try  to  see  who  was  in  it,  much  less 
make  any  attempt  to  stop  it.  Every  day  the  mounted 
escort  receives  the  stage  far  this  side  of  Queretaro.  I 
have  known  Saturnino  for  two  years  or  more,  and  have 
perfect  confidence  that  he  tells  me  the  truth  and  would 
never  consent  to  be  an  accomplice  with  anyone  who  might 
try  to  do  such  a thing  as  Mrs.  Franco  said  had  been 
reported.  So,  let  us  thank  God  and  take  courage. 

We  came  almost  all  the  way  from  Huehuetoca  in  a 
drizzling  rain  which  kept  down  the  dust  and  did  not 
hinder  our  journey.  It  has  rained  harder  toward  Quere- 
taro and  the  coach  from  there  was  delayed,  so  we  may 
not  arrive  as  early  as  usual  and  you  must  not  feel  uneasy 
if  you  do  not  hear  from  me  until  Friday.  I fell  encour- 
aged and  am  sure  we  may  safely  put  our  trust  in  our 
Heavenly  Father.  . . . 


Guanajuato,  June  17. 

I have  only  time  for  a few  lines  to  say  that  I reached 
here  all  right,  at  four  o’clock,  and  found  Brother  and 
Sister  Kemble  well  and  in  good  spirits.  This  is  quite  a 
different  atmosphere  from  that  of  Queretaro. 

During  my  brief  stay  there  last  night,  I saw  the  Colonel 
in  command  of  the  Federal  troops  stationed  in  Queretaro, 
and  he  told  me  he  had  orders  to  leave  there  this  week. 
He  thinks  it  is  not  possible  for  us  to  do  anything  at 
present ; says  the  people  are  so  opposed  to  us  that  even 
if  the  government  should  prevent  any  public  acts  of  vio- 
lence such  as  mobs,  our  ministers  living  there  would  be 
in  constant  and  great  danger  of  assassination,  and  the 
government  would  be  powerless  to  prevent  it. 

I am  writing  Brother  Greenman  the  exact  condition 


150 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


of  things,  and  must  leave  him  to  decide  the  question  of 
his  return.  I cannot  take  the  responsibility  of  sending 
him  there.  . . . 

Guanajuato,  June  26. 

On  Sunday  I preached  three  times,  with  good  attention 
and  apparent  interest  on  the  part  of  the  people.  Tuesday 
morning,  at  five  o’clock,  Brother  Kemble  and  I started 
to  Leou,  arriving  about  half  past  ten.  The  stage  was  full, 
so  we  had  to  ride  outside,  aud  our  broad  hats  stood  us  in 
good  stead.  Brother  Kemble  was  much  pleased  with  his 
first  view  of  his  future  home. 

We  had  breakfast  and  then  went  to  call  on  Stoddard 
and  Gardner,  dealers  in  agricultural  implements,  who 
received  us  very  cordially.  From  there  we  weut  to  see 
Mr.  J.,  preacher  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church, 
South.  He  did  not  give  a very  flattering  account  of  his 
own  work,  or  of  the  prospects  in  Leon.  After  three  years, 
his  congregation  only  numbers  from  ten  to  twenty  in 
attendance,  and  thirty  on  extraordinary  occasions. 
Though  they  have  not  suffered  from  mob  violence,  the 
persecution  in  other  ways  has  been  very  persistent  and 
severe. 

In  the  afternoon  we  went  in  search  of  an  Englishman, 
Mr.  Gray,  and  at  his  house  met  a Mr.  Heyser,  who  is  one 
of  the  foremen  of  a large  cotton  factory  here.  He  frankly 
declared  himself  a Protestant,  and  invited  us  to  visit  his 
factory.  We  went  also  to  see  another  Mr.  Gray,  brother 
of  the  former,  who  received  us  very  kindly,  and  manifested 
great  interest  in  our  work. 

At  eight  o’clock  we  went  to  visit  Mr.  Heyser’s  factory, 
which  is  illuminated  for  night  work  by  electric  light,  the 
first  I had  ever  seen  in  operation  and  use  for  such  a pur- 
pose. The  establishment  is  very  neat,  has  new  American 
machinery,  and  is  evidently  well  managed.  They  manu- 
facture only  cotton  thread,  used  by  makers  of  rebozos. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


151 


The  next  morning  we  went  to  call  on  Senor  Estrada, 
formerly  Chief  of  Police  in  Leon,  and  noted  for  the  energy 
with  which  he  compelled  the  Romish  Bishop  and  his  clergy 
to  keep  within  the  limits  of  the  law.  He  received  us  with 
great  cordiality  and  offered  to  assist  us  so  far  as  he  may 
be  able.  He  thinks  that  Protestantism  has  not  made  prog- 
ress in  Leon  because  of  the  character  of  the  persons  who 
have  been  sent  there  to  carry  on  the  work.  He  says  the 
people  of  this  city  are  quiet  and  tractable,  and  that  there 
is  little  danger  of  anything  like  mob  violence,  especially 
as  the  State  authorities  are  inclined  to  carry  out  the  laws 
and  give  protection  to  all.  He  also  told  us  that  the  govern- 
ment holds  some  property  in  Leon,  which  could  probably 
be  bought  at  a low  price,  and  mentioned  one  very  centrally 
located,  which  we  went  to  see. 

We  went  again  to  see  our  countrymen,  on  whom  we 
had  called  the  day  we  arrived,  but  this  time  were 
received  rather  coldly.  We  judged  from  their  manner 
and  language,  that  they  wished  its  to  understand  that  they 
cannot  have  anything  to  do  with  us  for  fear  of  injuring 
their  business. 

We  started  back  to  Gunanjuato  at  eleven  o’clock,  and 
had  a hot  ride  of  more  than  five  hours.  At  night  we  held 
communion  service,  and  I baptized  a child.  The  next 
night  preached  to  a large  congregation. 

In  the  afternoon  of  this  day,  Brother  Kemble  was  taken 
ill,  and  during  the  evening  grew  rapidly  worse.  We 
called  a physician,  who  seemed  alarmed  at  his  condition. 
Mrs.  K.  and  I were  both  up  all  night  with  him,  and  he 
continued  so  ill  on  Friday  that  the  physician  asked  me 
not  to  leave  until  there  should  be  some  change.  . . . 

Queretaro,  June  29. 

On  Saturday  Brother  Kemble  began  to  improve,  and 
though  still  confined  to  his  bed,  will  probably  recover 


152 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


entirely  within  a few  days.  On  Sunday  I preached  twice 
and  baptized  a grown  person. 

Monday  morning,  at  three  o’clock,  I left  Guanajuato 
and  arrived  here  early  in  the  evening,  my  entrance  to  the 
city  covered  by  quite  a heavy  rain.  After  supper,  by  pre- 
vious arrangement,  I went  to  the  Mission  house  to  meet 
the  police  officer  and  take  formal  possession  of  the  house 
and  furniture  we  had  left  in  their  care.  I had  been 
perplexed  to  know  how  I should  get  the  other  things  back 
without  making  a great  stir,  but  the  way  opened  by  an 
offer  on  the  part  of  the  same  man  who  took  them  away 
the  night  we  left. 

He  proposed  beginning  at  once,  as  it  was  very  dark  and 
rainy  and  few  people  were  abroad.  I went  and  came  back 
with  him  with  the  first  load,  a very  heavy  trunk,  which 
he  let  fall  just  at  the  entrance  and  against  the  door  of  the 
adjoining  house,  but  I laid  hold  of  it  with  him  and  we 
hurried  it  in  doors  before  anyone  appeared  on  the  scene. 
This  first  venture  encouraged  us  to  proceed. 

He  had  to  make  seven  trips,  and  it  was  half  past  one 
in  the  morning  before  he  finished,  and  I could  lock  up  the 
house.  The  next  day,  with  the  help  of  Gamboa  and 
Nareiso,  we  got  the  house  swept  clean,  the  furniture 
dusted  and  put  in  place,  and  unpacked  enough  bedding  to 
make  two  beds  comfortable,  cleaned  and  filled  the  lamps, 
and  bought,  through  the  friendly  family  of  Uribe,  meat, 
eggs,  flour,  coffee,  sugar,  milk,  etc.,  had  a fire  started  in 
the  kitchen  and  water  boiling.  After  dark  Nareiso  and 
I brought  all  the  dishes  back,  finishing  our  preparations 
about  ten  o’clock.  Then  I went  to  the  hotel  to  await  the 
arrival  of  the  friends.  The  diligence  did  not  come  in 
till  midnight,  but  it  put  new  life  into  me  to  see  the  dear 
Greenmans  again.  We  got  to  bed  about  2 a.  m. 

Saturday  we  sent  formal  notices  of  the  opening  of  serv- 
ices for  Sunday,  filled  out  and  sent  invitations,  got  the 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


153 


organ  into  the  house,  cleaned  the  room  for  chapel,  and 
got  everything  in  readiness  for  the  next  day. 

Another  pastoral  of  the  Bishop  was  read  in  the  Cathe- 
dral last  Sunday.  He  forbids  violence  against  the  Prot- 
estants, but  emits  as  usual  a great  many  absurd  slanders. 
When  I read  it  I felt  like  doing  as  Hezekiah  did  with  the 
king  of  Assyria — lay  it  before  the  Lord.  . . . 


July  4. 

Saturday  afternoon  we  received  assurances  that  meas- 
ures had  been  taken  and  the  police  force  had  been  in- 
creased. During  the  day  several  leading  officials  passed 
and  repassed  the  house.  Yesterday,  just  two  months  from 
the  day  of  the  mob,  we  held  our  first  public  service,  four 
besides  ourselves  being  present.  All  passed  off  quietly. 

This  has  been,  is  still,  the  4th— the  Glorious  Fourth ! 
We  have  not  been  able  to  celebrate  it  in  the  traditional 
way,  but  it  has  been  a good  day  nevertheless,  because  we 
have  found  many  elements  in  the  situation  which  seem 
to  promise  well  for  the  future.  There  has  been  almost  no 
difficulty  in  securing  everything  needed,  only  one  person 
in  the  market  refusing  to  sell  to  the  cook. 

We  called  on  Colonel  Rocha,  who  received  us  very  kindly. 
We  also  saw  Colonel  Garcia,  who  told  us  he  has  orders 
from  the  war  department  by  virtue  of  which  he  can  act  in 
case  of  necessity  without  waiting  for  the  State  govern- 
ment to  ask  it.  He  says  if  we  will  establish  a day  school, 
he  will  send  his  two  children. 

We  have  heard  repeatedly  that  the  Bishop  and  priests 
have  energetically  instructed  the  people  to  do  no  violence 
to  the  Protestants,  and  that  even  sermons  against  Protes- 
tantism are  forbidden.  It  is  almost  certain  that  the 
government  has  been  taking  a strong  position  with  refer- 
ence to  the  conduct  of  ecclesiastics,  and  that  this  is  pro- 
ducing its  effect.  Of  course,  it  is  not  to  be  supposed  that 


154 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


the  real  hostility  of  the  clergy  is  any  less ; but  there  seems 
to  be  an  entire  change  of  tactics. 

I think  there  is  every  probability  that  our  workers  here 
will  not  be  molested  again.  So  far  as  we  can  now  see,  the 
whole  history  of  our  leaving  Queretaro,  our  action  iu 
Mexico  City,  our  delay  in  returning  and  the  precise  time 
of  our  return,  would  seem  to  have  been  providentially 
guided.  Certainly  it  was  not  a way  of  our  own  choosing. 

We  met  to-day  Mr.  Fuller  of  the  Central  Railroad,  and 
he  told  ns  they  hope  to  finish  it  to  this  point  by  December. 
He  has  a thousand  men  at  work  pushing  up  through  the 
Canada  toward  San  Juan  del  Rio.  The  earthworks  out 
on  the  plain  are  to  be  finished  by  October. 

We  have  heard  some  vague  rumors  of  the  assassination 
of  President  Garfield,  but  cannot  believe  them.  . . . 

(To  his  Father) 

Mexico  City,  July  13. 

I arrived  here  this  morning  after  a rather  fatiguing 
journey  of  more  than  two  days  and  nights.  I have  been 
away  from  home  just  four  weeks,  and  traveled  about  seven 
hundred  miles,  chiefly  by  stage.  I have  visited  Leon, 
Guanajuato,  and  Queretaro.  While  in  the  latter  place 
Brother  Greenmail  and  family  arrived,  and  our  public 
services  were  begun  on  Sunday,  July  3,  just  three  months 
after  the  mob  attack.  Only  four  persons  were  present 
besides  those  connected  with  the  Mission,  but  we  consider 
it  a great  triumph  for  our  cause  that  we  were  able  to  hold 
a service  publicly,  without  the  least  disturbance,  in  that 
fanatical  city,  when  there  have  been  such  persistent  and 
violent  efforts  to  prevent  it.  We  felt  greatly  sustained  by 
the  prayers  of  our  friends,  so  many  of  whom  we  knew  were 
remembering  us  at  the  Throne  of  Grace.  I have  come 
home  to  meet  other  pressing  difficulties  and  emergencies 
in  connection  with  other  departments  and  interests  of 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


155 


our  work.  I feel  very  insufficient  for  all  these  things,  and 
hope  you  will  not  cease  to  pray  for  me  that  I may  have 
wisdom  from  above  with  which  to  meet  and  discharge  my 
varied  responsibilities.  . . . 

(From  a letter  of  Mine) 

August  31. 

The  young  Mexican  preacher,  Gamboa,  who  went  with 
C.  to  Quer-etaro  just  after  the  mob,  and  has  been  carry- 
ing on  the  services  there  under  Mr.  Greenman’s  direction, 
arrived  here  last  night  on  a month’s  leave  of  absence  to  be 
married. 

In  the  meantime  Mr.  Greenman  is  left  quite  alone  in 
his  work,  and  as  there  are  now  services  every  Sunday 
morning  as  well  as  twice  during  the  week,  and  his  knowl- 
edge and  use  of  Spanish  are  still  very  limited,  it  is  no 
small  undertaking. 

Everything  lias  gone  on  quietly  there  thus  far,  and  the 
outlook  is  very  encouraging.  At  the  last  service  there 
were  twelve  present  besides  those  connected  with  the 
Mission.  The  rural  guard  who  came  to  buy  a Bible,  the 
day  after  the  mob,  and  who  had  some  conversation  at  the 
time  with  C.,  now  comes  regularly  to  service  and  brings 
his  wife  with  him,  and  also  one  of  his  comrades.  . . . 

,,  ,,  Mexico  City,  September  3,  1881. 

My  dear  Mother:  ’ 1 

After  my  return  from  Queretaro  I was  only  here  long 
enough  to  issue  our  monthly  paper,  and  then  went  with 
Ada  to  Miraflores  for  three  days,  holding  the  usual  series 
of  quarterly  services  and  having  a very  pleasant  visit  with 
Brother  and  Sister  Siberts.  We  returned  on  Monday,  and 
on  Tuesday  night  started  to  Orizava.  I was  detained 
there  full  two  weeks,  visiting  Cordoba  in  the  meantime. 
We  were  then  a week  in  Puebla,  after  which  we  came 
home,  to  prepare  another  number  of  our  paper. 


156 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


Last  Sunday  I was  in  Pachuea;  preached  three  times, 
administered  the  Lord’s  Supper  twice  and  baptized  two 
children.  Returned  home  Monday  evening,  and  have  been 
very  busy  ever  since  with  my  official  correspondence.  I 
must  return  there  the  latter  part  of  next  week  to  take 
a horseback  tour  with  Brother  Barker,  exploring  some 
new  places  and  visiting  the  work  already  established. 

Bishop  Andrews  is  to  hold  the  Annual  Meeting  on 
February  2.  I suppose  he  will  be  here  about  the  middle 
of  January.  . . . 


Pachuca,  September  17. 

I reached  Ometusco  at  midnight ; went  to  bed  but  could 
not  sleep,  as  there  were  people  noising  around  till  after 
two  o’clock.  I got  up  a little  after  five,  having  had  less 
than  three  hours  sleep.  Had  a cup  of  very  poor  coffee,  and 
started  for  Pachuca.  On  the  way  had  a little  more  coffee 
of  an  even  worse  quality,  and  arrived  here  at  half  past 
ten.  Started  at  once  for  Tulancingo,  and  rode  six  leagues 
to  Huasca,  without  stopping. 

In  Omitlan,  I was  joined  by  Gamboa  and  Brother 
Barker’s  man,  Josd  Maria.  We  stopped  on  the  way  long 
enough  to  eat  a fried  egg  and  take  a little  more  coffee, 
and  were  off  again.  We  rode  seven  leagues  further,  with- 
out any  stop,  reaching  Tulancingo  late  in  the  afternoon, 
having  traveled  in  about  twelve  hours  twenty-six  leagues, 
more  than  half  the  distance  on  horseback.  You  can 
imagine  how  stiff  and  sore  I was ! We  went  to  the  hotel, 
where  we  had  breakfast,  dinner,  and  supper  all  in  one. 

Afterwards  several  friends  of  the  cause  came  to  my 
room  and  stayed  till  after  ten  o’clock,  when  we  had 
prayers  and  separated  for  the  night.  We  got  up  early  the 
next  morning,  and  spent  the  day  in  visiting  people  and 
making  arrangements  for  a service  at  night.  At  eight 
o’clock  I preached  the  first  Protestant  sermon  in  Tulcan- 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


157 


cingo,  to  sixteen  persons  besides  Brothers  Barker  and 
Gamboa.  I took  for  my  text  “These  that  have  turned  the 
world  upside  down  have  come  hither  also.” 

We  made  arrangements  for  a preaching  service  every 
two  weeks. 

We  left  Tulancingo  Friday  morning  at  five  o’clock,  and 
rode  across  the  mountains  to  Omitlan,  ten  leagues  distant, 
arriving  at  about  eleven.  At  three  o’clock,  I baptized  a 
child,  and  Brother  Barker  married  Gaboa.  We  left  Omit- 
lan at  four  and  reached  Paehuca  two  hours  later.  After 
supper  I went  to  see  Coronel  and  his  wife,  whose  little 
child  had  died  that  afternoon.  We  go  to-morrow  to 
Tezontepec  to  spend  Sunday,  and  I hope  to  be  at  home 
Monday  night.  . . . 


Queretaro,  October  30,  1881. 

Here  I am  safe  in  Queretaro,  after  a very  hard  journey. 
Our  troubles  began  very  soon.  Before  we  reached  Tula 
we  came  to  a break  in  the  road  bed,  and  our  train  was 
delayed  three  hours,  so  that  it  was  2 p.  m.,  when  we 
arrived  at  San  Antonio.  Some  time  passed  in  getting  the 
diligence  ready,  but  we  finally  got  off  about  three  o’clock. 

We  were  nine  passengers,  three  Spaniards,  one  French- 
man, four  Mexicans,  and  myself.  The  roads  were  so  bad 
we  did  not  reach  El  Destello  till  three  o’clock  Friday 
morning.  The  apples,  oranges,  and  cake  you  put  in  the 
little  basket,  did  good  service  in  keeping  up  my  spirits, 
as  I had  nothing  else  to  eat  all  day.  Had  a light  lunch 
on  our  arrival  in  El  Destello,  and  got  to  bed  at  once.  I 
forgot  to  say  that  in  the  early  part  of  the  night  we  had 
to  get  out  and  walk  quite  a distance,  and  I got  into  the 
mud  pretty  badly. 

We  slept  nearly  three  hours  when  the  call  came  to  get 
up,  and  we  started  on  our  way  again.  We  had  a little 
Mexican  lunch  at  Mai  Paso,  and  arrived  at  San  Juan  del 


158 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


Rio  at  2 p.  m.  The  trips  of  the  diligences  were  so  com- 
pletely disarranged,  that  there  was  no  fresh  team  here 
to  take  us  forward,  so  we  had  to  stay  all  night. 

I took  a walk  to  see  the  new  railroad  bridge  under 
construction,  and  went  to  call  on  George  Skilton  and  wife, 
who  are  temporarily  resident  in  San  Juan.  They  invited 
me  to  stay  to  tea  and  spend  the  evening,  which  I did  and 
had  a very  pleasant  time. 

The  next  morning  we  were  called  at  half  past  three  and 
started  on  our  third  day’s  journey  at  five  o’clock.  We 
had  only  gone  about  two  leagues  when  we  stuck  fast  in  a 
bad  mud  hole.  The  mules  could  not  stir  the  coach  and, 
after  repeated  and  fruitless  endeavors  to  mend  matters, 
the  coachman  sent  to  the  nearest  farm  to  ask  for  oxen. 
After  some  delay,  sixteen  oxen  and  eight  or  ten  farm 
hands  appeared  on  the  scene.  Then  came  repeated  efforts 
with  two,  four,  and  six  yoke  of  oxen  to  move  the  coach 
first  backward  and  then  forward.  All  was  in  vain  until 
the  coach  was  unloaded  and  partially  digged  out,  when 
finally  it  was  pulled  out  of  the  ditch  by  six  yoke  of  oxen. 

The  coach  was  then  reloaded,  passengers  got  in,  and 
with  the  help  of  fourteen  oxen,  we  succeeded  in  getting 
about  half  a league  further,  when  we  met  the  coach  bound 
for  Mexico  City,  and  exchanged  our  oxen  for  the  mules 
of  that  vehicle.  We  also  changed  coachmen  for  the  better, 
and  with  much  whipping  of  the  mules  and  swearing  of 
the  drivers,  we  finally  got  to  an  inn,  called  Crucitas.  It 
was  now  after  two  o’clock. 

We  had  something  to  eat,  and  waited  in  vain  for  the 
appearance  of  a fresh  team  which  had  been  sent  for  to 
take  us  to  the  next  posthouse  a league  further  on.  Finally, 
at  five  o’clock,  we  concluded  to  wait  no  longer,  and  started 
on  foot  for  El  Sauz,  which  we  reached  in  safety.  Here 
we  had  supper  and  got  very  poor  accommodations  for 
sleeping. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


159 


I had  to  share,  and  was  fortunate  in  being  invited  to  do 
so,  a narrow,  single  mattress  with  a tall,  bearded  German, 
as  large  as  myself.  We  got  along  very  amicably,  and 
after  some  conversation  slept  till  half  past  one,  when  we 
got  up  to  be  ready  to  start,  as  agreed  upon,  at  two  o’clock. 
We  did  not  get  off  however,  till  nearly  four,  owing  to 
the  laziness  or  slowness  of  the  coachmen. 

We  toiled  painfully  through  the  first  post,  having  to 
walk  about  a mile  after  having  assisted  in  getting  the 
coach  out  of  another  mud  hole,  but  finally  at  twelve 
o’clock  we  reached  Queretaro.  I was  not  sorry  to  part 
with  my  fellow  travelers,  one  of  whom  was  constantly 
drunk  and  still  a-drinking,  and  two  others  of  whom  dur- 
ing our  three  days  and  a half  of  enforced  association,  con- 
firmed my  conviction  that  Spaniards  are  the  foulest 
mouthed  people  on  the  globe. 

Brother  Greemnan  and  the  porter  were  at  the  Diligence 
House  to  meet  me,  and  I was  soon  comfortably  settled  in 
this  pleasant  mission  home.  When  I reached  the  house, 
the  congregation  was  still  waiting  to  see  me,  and  as  soon 
as  I could  make  myself  presentable,  I went  down  and 
spoke  to  them  for  half  an  hour.  Now  for  a good  night’s 
rest,  and  preparation  for  to-morrow.  . . . 


Wednesday. 

We  held  a special  service  Tuesday  afternoon,  with  the 
administration  of  the  Lord’s  Supper,  about  twenty  per- 
sons being  present.  I preached  again  at  night,  and  this 
service  was  also  well  attended.  The  condition  of  our 
work  here  is  still  a very  trying  one,  and  our  good  friends 
have  to  suffer  a constant  strain,  which  must  be  very  hard 
to  bear.  . . . 

Guanajuato,  November  6. 

I left  Queretaro  early  Thursday  morning  and  reached 
Celaya,  where  we  had  to  stay  all  night,  at  four  in  the 


160 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


afternoon.  The  next  day,  started  on  to  Guanajuato,  where 
we  arrived  at  6 p.  m.  Received  a warm  welcome  from 
Brother  K.  and  his  wife,  and  indeed  from  all  the  people 
of  the  congregation. 

We  held  two  preaching  services  during  the  day  and 
one  at  night,  and  another  the  following  night,  together 
with  the  Sacrament  and  Quarterly  Conference.  I expect 
to  leave  here  for  Queretaro  Tuesday  or  Wednesday,  and 
hope  to  be  at  home  by  Saturday  night.  . . . 

He  carried  out  this  plan  and  arrived  at  the  time  he 
expected,  having  been  away  from  home  seventeen  days, 
ten  and  a half  of  which  were  spent  on  the  road ! 

During  this  absence,  word  came  of  the  alarming  con- 
dition of  Mr.  Luders,  and  it  seemed  necessary  for  him  to 
leave  Puebla  at  once  and  consult  some  specialist  in  Mexico 
City.  This  he  did,  and  we  made  him  as  comfortable  as 
possible  in  our  own  home,  whose  quiet  he  greatly  ap- 
preciated, and  where  the  conditions  were  most  favorable 
for  his  recovery.  He  seemed  to  improve  at  first,  and  the 
physician  in  charge  of  his  case  thought  it  not  entirely 
hopeless;  but  later,  serious  symptoms  developed  and  a 
consultation  was  held  in  which  it  was  decided  that  he  had 
Bright’s  disease  of  the  kidneys,  and  that  his  heart  was 
seriously  affected.  They  advised  his  removal,  after  a few 
weeks,  to  a warmer  climate,  and  on  my  husband’s  return 
we  had  one  of  the  larger  boys  from  the  orphanage  come 
iip  to  help  our  servant  take  care  of  him,  while  we  went 
to  Puebla  to  attend  to  the  work  there  and  relieve  his  mind 
as  to  that. 


(To  his  Father) 

Puebla,  December  2,  1881. 

I am  so  much  away  from  home  and  so  driven  with 
accumulated  work  when  I am  there,  that  I scarcely  have 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


161 


more  than  time  to  keep  up  the  most  necessary  official 
correspondence  with  the  missionaries  here  and  the 
authorities  at  home.  I am  glad  that  with  the  forty-six 
pages  which  I am  sending  off  to-night,  including  the 
Annual  Report  of  the  Mission,  I shall  be  about  even  with 
my  official  correspondence. 

Since  I have  been  down  here,  I have  been  trying  to 
bring  up  my  occasional  letters  in  answer  to  people  who 
write  to  me  about  almost  everything.  For  instance,  I 
sent  answer  a few  days  ago  to  a wealthy  and  public  spir- 
ited maiden  lady  of  New  York  City,  who  wrote  to  me 
asking  how  the  streets  are  kept  clean  in  Puebla.  Another 
in  answer  to  a recommendation  of  a lady  in  New  Orleans, 
as  translator  and  teacher. 

I have,  waiting  for  a reply,  two  or  three  letters  from 
different  missionary  societies  asking  for  long  letters  about 
our  work,  another  inquiring  how  much  it  costs  to  live  in 
Mexico,  another  asking  me  to  copy  and  send  an  old  Latin 
inscription  to  be  found  in  some  out-of-the-way  corner  of 
the  old  convent  of  the  Inquisition  in  Mexico  City,  etc. 

We  are  having  some  trouble  in  different  parts  of  our 
mission  from  our  fanatical  enemies.  I learned  only  to- 
day, that  Brother  Mendoza  has  been  arrested,  tried,  and 
eondemmed  on  a charge  trumped  up  and  sworn  to  by 
false  witnesses.  This  is  in  Silao  near  Guanajuato.  I 
am  as  certain  as  can  possibly  be  that  he  is  perfectly 
innocent. 

Near  Tezcoco  also  the  native  preacher  was  fired  at, 
as  he  was  returning  from  the  funeral  of  a member  of  his 
congregation.  The  shot  missed  him,  but  the  perpetrators 
of  the  deed  had  him  arrested,  alleging  that  he  fired  at  a 
woman  walking  quietly  along  the  road.  He  was  in  prison 
several  days  in  San  Vicente,  and  then  Texcoco,  but  was 
finally  acquitted  and  allowed  to  go  home. 

We  often  have  fightings  without  and  fears  within,  but 


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THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


our  trust  is  in  God,  who  will  surely  give  us  the 
victory 

Two  weeks  later  Mr.  Drees  returned  to  Mexico  City, 
to  arrange  for  the  publication  of  the  next  number  of  our 
paper,  and  was  unexpectedly  detained  by  the  sudden  and 
fatal  illness  of  one  of  our  most  intimate  friends. 

By  this  time  the  doctors  had  decided  that  Mr.  Luders 
must  now  try  a warmer  climate,  so  it  was  arranged  for 
him  to  go  to  Orizava,  Mr.  Drees  accompanying  him  as 
far  as  Apizaco. 

Three  months  previous  to  this,  Dr.  Fuentes,  a Cuban 
ex-priest,  arrived,  bringing  very  good  recommendations 
from  New  York  as  well  as  from  Havana.  He  was  about 
forty  years  of  age,  highly  educated,  with  literary  tastes 
and  training,  very  dignified  and  with  pleasant  manners 
and  attractive  personality.  He  proved  to  be  a valuable 
acquisition  to  the  mission. 


CHAPTER  IX 


Mexico  City,  January  2,  1882. 

Dear  Father  and  Mother: 

The  New  Year  is  come  and  I must  send  at  least  a line, 
to  give  you  and  all  the  dear  ones  at  home  my  best  wishes. 
Last  year  brought  us  a great  many  toils  and  some  very 
severe  trials,  but  we  have  been  led  safely  through  them 
all,  and  our  interests  and  those  of  the  friends  we  love 
so  well  are  still  in  the  care  of  our  covenant-keeping  God. 
We  are  disposed  to  trust  him  for  all  that  is  before  us 
for  this  new  year. 

We  were  both  in  Puebla  till  December  27,  when  we 
returned  to  Mexico  City.  We  spent  a very  quiet  Christ- 
mas with  our  old  charge,  and  had  a Christmas  tree  for 
the  children  of  the  orphanage.  Rev.  Mr.  Hamilton,  the 
agent  of  the  American  Bible  Society,  was  with  us.  I 
persuaded  him  to  go  to  Puebla  with  me  to  rest  and  re- 
cuperate a little.  He  was  very  much  worn  down  by  watch- 
ing night  and  day  by  the  bedside  of  our  mutual  friend,  Mr. 
A.,  who  died  December  21. 

Our  sympathies  have  been  very  much  drawn  out  toward 
his  wife  and  daughters,  who  are  left  alone  in  a strange 
land.  He  carried  on  a very  active  and  successful  busi- 
ness, but  has  been  cut  off  so  suddenly  that  I fear  it  will 
be  difficult  to  settle  up  his  affairs  so  as  to  leave  his 
family  with  adequate  means  of  support.  He  was  one  of 
our  very  best  friends  and  we  feel  his  loss  very  keenly. 

Our  mission  has  received  two  accessions  during  the 

163 


164 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


last  week,  by  the  birth  of  a son  to  Brother  and  Sister 
Kemble,  and  a daughter  to  Brother  and  Sister  Siberts. 

Saturday  night,  Brother  Craver  and  family  arrived  here 
on  their  return  from  their  visit  home.  They  are  staying 
with  us,  but  start  to-morrow  morning  for  Guanajuato. 
They  are  all  quite  well,  much  improved  by  their  vacation, 
and  glad  to  be  back  again.  Wednesday  night  I shall  set 
out  for  Vera  Cruz  to  meet  Bishop  Andrews,  who  should 
arrive  there  on  the  eighth  or  ninth.  He  will  visit  Orizava 
and  Puebla  on  his  way  up,  and  reach  here  about  the  four- 
teenth. Two  days  later,  we  hope  to  start  for  Queretaro 
and  Guanajuato,  and  return  in  time  to  hold  the  Annual 
Meeting  on  the  twenty-sixth,  so  you  see  I shall  be  on  the 
move  all  this  month.  Our  appropriation  is  so  limited  that 
I fear  we  shall  have  great  difficulty  in  providing  for  our 
work.  I sometimes  feel  greatly  discouraged. 

We  had  a Watch  Night  Meeting  here  Saturday  night, 
which  was  very  largely  attended;  also  a union  meeting 
yesterday  afternoon. 

We  think  of  you  all  constantly,  and  pray  for  you  and 
long  to  see  you.  . . . 

During  the  first  week  of  the  new  year,  1882,  Mr.  Drees 
found  it  necessary  to  go  to  Tulancingo  to  attend  to  some 
urgent  property  matters,  and  met  with  several  unexpected 
complications. 


(On  the  Train) 

Rinconada,  January  6. 

I arrived  safely  at  Tulancingo  Thursday  afternoon  at 
four  o’clock,  and  lost  no  time  in  going  to  the  registry  of 
deeds,  but  found  that  the  registration  could  not  be  made 
till  the  tax  on  the  transfers  had  been  paid.  I hastened  to 
the  Custom  House  and  arranged  that  matter;  but  the 
officials  were  very  slow,  and  I did  not  get  away  from 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


165 


there  till  after  dark.  My  money  was  all  gone  by  this 
time,  and  the  bills  not  all  paid. 

I went  to  a business  house  to  negotiate  a draft,  but 
could  not  do  so  without  some  one  to  identify  me.  I did 
not  know  where  to  look  for  Valderrama,  who  had  recently 
moved,  and  all  the  other  people  I knew  happened  to  be 
out  of  town.  I went  and  got  supper  and  wandered  about 
a while,  wondering  what  I should  do.  Finally  it  occurred 
to  me  to  go  to  the  post  office  and  inquire  for  Valderrama 
and  there  I found  his  address,  and  was  soon  at  his  house 
and  greatly  comforted  in  spirit. 

After  a little  conversation  we  went  out  and  took  the 
deeds  to  the  Registrar,  begging  him  to  attend  to  the 
matter  as  early  as  possible  Friday  morning,  which  he 
promised  to  do.  It  was  now  impossible  for  me  to  take  the 
diligence  the  next  morning,  as  I had  planned  to  do,  and 
there  was  no  other  until  the  following  Monday,  so  there 
was  nothing  to  do  but  try  and  get  away  on  horseback. 
Valderrama  agreed  to  try  and  get  horses  and  a guide  to 
go  with  me.  I went  to  bed  very  tired  and  with  a severe 
headache. 

I felt  better  by  morning,  and  as  soon  as  breakfast  was 
over  went  out  and  succeeded  in  negotiating  a draft  for 
$50 ; went  to  the  Custom  House  and  paid  the  balance  due, 
and  at  ten  o’clock  got  my  last  documents,  leaving  every- 
thing settled  and  secure.  Meanwhile  Valderrama  had 
engaged  one  horse,  but  the  other  could  not  be  had  till  two 
o’clock  in  the  afternoon.  Then  both  animals  had  to  be 
fed  before  we  could  start,  so  that  it  was  nearly  three  be- 
fore we  finally  got  off. 

The  lowest  estimate  of  the  distance  from  here  to  Apam, 
where  I was  to  take  the  train,  was  twelve  leagues;  some 
insist  that  it  is  fourteen.  In  any  case  we  were  just  five 
hours  on  the  way.  The  road  was  delightful  until  dark- 
ness overtook  us.  We  crossed  two  mountain  ranges,  one 


166 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


of  which  was  very  high  and  covered  with  pine  trees.  Be- 
tween the  two  ranges  is  a high  level  plain  six  or  eight 
miles  wide,  with  a large  fresh  water  lake  in  the  midst  of 
it.  The  sun  went  down  just  as  we  finished  crossing  this 
plain. 

It  was  a beautiful  sight,  and  the  ride  was  very  exhila- 
rating. I had  a good  horse,  large,  strong,  and  willing, 
so  I did  not  let  the  grass  grow  under  his  hoofs.  I was 
very  tired  when  we  reached  Apam  and  did  not  long  delay 
in  getting  supper  and  going  to  bed.  My  room  was  not 
pleasant,  but  I managed  to  sleep  and  woke  this  morning 
very  much  refreshed,  and  none  the  worse  for  my  journey. 

As  I have  no  time  to  lose  before  Annual  Meeting,  it  is 
necessary  for  me  to  go  straight  to  Orizava  to-day,  and 
thence  to  Vera  Cruz,  where  the  Bishop  is  due  Sunday  or 
Monday.  . . . 

Bishop  and  Mrs.  Andrews,  and  the  Misses  Scott  of 
Philadelphia,  daughters  of  Mr.  Charles  Scott,  a promi- 
nent member  of  the  Arch  Street  Church,  and  of  the  Board 
of  Foreign  Missions,  arrived  the  following  week  and  spent 
more  than  a month  in  Mexico.  It  would  be  difficult  to 
overestimate  the  importance  and  value  of  this  Episcopal 
visit  to  the  interests  of  the  mission. 

Bishop  Andrews,  with  his  clear  judgment  and  wide 
knowledge  of  life,  his  kindly  spirit,  and  sympathetic  in- 
terest in  the  individual  members  of  the  Mission,  his  wise 
and  fatherly  advice,  and  his  genial  and  affectionate  bear- 
ing, attracted  every  one,  and  made  his  visit  a blessing 
indeed.  He  took  time  to  go  into  all  necessary  details, 
and  visited  unhurriedly  all  the  principal  points  of  the 
Mission,  as  well  as  some  of  the  less  important  ones. 

What  the  friendship  formed  during  this  month  with 
all  the  members  of  this  party  has  meant  to  us  personally, 
through  all  the  years  that  have  passed  since  then,  cannot 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


167 


be  recorded  here.  Suffice  it  is  to  say  that  it  has  been 
a constant  source  of  happiness  and  inspiration. 

On  the  second  day  of  the  Annual  Meeting,  Dr.  T.  B. 
Wood,  superintendent  of  our  mission  in  South  America, 
arrived.  He  had  been  in  that  country  twelve  years,  knew 
Spanish  well,  and  entered  at  once  into  the  proceedings 
of  the  Conference  with  the  greatest  interest  and  enthu- 
siasm. He  remained  in  Mexico  nearly  three  months  and 
during  that  time  accompanied  Mr.  Drees  on  his  round  of 
quarterly  visits  to  all  parts  of  the  Mission,  preaching 
with  great  acceptability  and  making  friends  wherever 
he  went. 

A few  days  before  the  opening  of  the  Annual  Meeting, 
Mr.  Luders,  finding  he  did  not  improve  in  Orizava,  and 
losing  all  hope  of  recovery,  returned  to  Puebla.  The 
boys  of  the  orphanage  and  the  members  of  the  congrega- 
tion gave  him  a warm  welcome,  and  it  seemed  to  be  a 
comfort  to  him  to  be  with  them  again.  Everything  pos- 
sible was  done  for  him,  but  he  was  past  all  help,  and 
three  days  after  his  return  the  end  came.  He  was  a most 
useful  and  versatile  man,  and  his  loss  seemed  irreparable. 

Silao,  April  4,  1882. 

Dr.  Wood  and  I left  Mexico  City  at  the  usual  time,  but 
about  ten  o’clock  came  to  the  place  of  the  wreck  of  the 
train  of  the  previous  night,  and  were  detained  there  till 
half  past  two,  not  reaching  Queretaro  till  six  o’clock. 

Brother  Greenman  met  us  at  the  station,  and  we  went 
at  once  to  see  about  getting  permission  to  go  on  to  Celaya, 
the  next  day,  on  the  construction  train.  This  was  granted, 
but  with  the  understanding  that  we  must  be  on  hand 
in  case  it  might  be  ready  to  start  at  daylight.  We  went 
to  the  station  early  the  next  morning,  but  it  was  four 
hours  before  the  car  was  ready  to  start. 

We  got  into  a box  car  on  top  of  a lot  of  railroad  ties, 


168 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


Mrs.  Greenman,  Mrs.  Lutz,  Mrs.  Surplice  and  daughter, 
Dr.  Wood,  Brother  Greenman,  two  or  three  other  gentle- 
men, and  myself.  Mrs.  G.  had  provided  a good  lunch, 
which  was  highly  appreciated  by  all  the  party. 

We  reached  Celaya  about  half  past  one,  and  were  told 
that  the  train  would  start  for  Irapuato  at  three;  so  as 
soon  as  we  had  lunch  we  hurried  across  town  to  the 
old  station  a little  before  time,  but  had  to  wait  two  hours 
and  did  not  arrive  at  Irapuato  till  dark.  As  soon  as  we 
got  in,  I had  to  hurry  to  the  the  diligence  office  to  engage 
our  seats  for  the  next  day,  and  by  the  time  we  had  supper 
every  one  was  glad  to  get  to  bed.  I did  not  sleep  well,  and 
was  up  and  dressed  before  five.  We  started  on  to  Guana- 
juato at  six,  were  delayed  by  a broken  king  bolt,  but 
finally  reached  there  a little  after  noon. 

On  Sunday  Dr.  Wood  preached  twice;  I assisting  at 
the  Sunday  school  and  presiding  over  the  love  feast  in 
the  afternoon.  Monday  morning  we  were  up  at  five 
o’clock  and  started  at  six  for  Leon,  arriving  about  noon. 
The  afternoon  was  taken  up  by  business  matters,  and 
Dr.  Wood  and  I worked  over  our  documents  until  after 
midnight. 

(Note. — The  documents  here  referred  to  related  to  the 
proposal  for  the  revision  or  new  translation  of  the 
Spanish  Bible.) 

I was  so  afraid  we  might  oversleep  that  I was  up 
several  times  in  the  night,  and  finally  got  dressed  before 
five  and  we  started  back  to  Silao  at  six.  We  held  a service 
there,  about  a dozen  adults  being  present,  then  went  to 
Guanajuato,  where  we  had  special  meetings  Wednesday 
and  Thursday,  with  large  congregations.  . . . 

Queretaro,  April  9. 

We  left  Guanajuato  Friday  morning,  hoping  to  get  a 
train  in  Irapuato,  but  found  there  were  none  running  and 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


169 


the  whole  matter  was  so  uncertain  that  we  had  to  take 
the  regular  stage  yesterday  morning,  and  come  clear 
through  in  that  vehicle.  We  reached  here  at  ten  o’clock 
last  night.  Fifteen  hours’  staging  were  enough  to  remind 
me  of  old  times,  and  produce  a very  considerable  degree 
of  weariness. 

From  here  we  go  to  San  Juan  del  Rio,  where  we  shall 
hold  a service  in  the  evening  and  take  the  train  at  10  p.  m., 
with  the  hope  of  reaching  home  the  next  day  before 
noon.  . . . 


Mexico  City,  April  25,  1882. 

My  dear  Mother  : 

I have  been  reminded  all  day  of  the  double  anniversary 
which  has  once  more  come  around  to  us;  your  birthday, 
and  the  day  on  which  I sailed  from  New  York  when  I 
first  came  to  Mexico.  It  hardly  seems  possible  that  eight 
years  have  passed  since  I set  my  face  toward  this  part 
of  the  world ! As  I look  back  over  all  this  time,  it  seems 
full  of  strange  vicissitudes  such  as  I could  hardly  have 
imagined  before.  I feel  that  God  has  been  very  good  to 
me  and  to  us  all,  and  that  we  have  great  reason  to  praise 
him. 

Since  my  return  from  the  interior,  I have  been  very 
busy  in  consultation  with  Dr.  Wood,  preparing  material 
for  our  May  Advocate,  and  numerous  other  things. 

Since  I wrote  last,  I have  received  a letter  from  the 
Mission  Rooms  in  New  York  stating  that  I have  been 
appointed  Treasurer  of  the  Mission.  This  will  bring  me 
a good  deal  of  additional  work.  I am  resolved  to  make 
every  possible  effort  to  keep  the  finances  of  the  Mission 
in  such  a manner  as  will  prove  satisfactory  to  the 
authorities  of  the  Society. 

Ada’s  brother  has  just  arrived,  having  come  to  take  a 
position  in  one  of  the  railroad  offices  of  this  city.  There 


170 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


is  just  now  a great  deal  of  activity  in  business  circles,  and 
there  are  many  openings.  . . . 


Orizava,  June  13. 

We  arrived  here  on  time  after  a very  pleasant  journey, 
and  found  Brother  and  Sister  Umpleby  awaiting  us  at 
the  station.  We  had  a very  good  Sunday,  celebrating  for 
the  first  time  Children’s  Day.  Miss  Swaney  made  a 
brief  address  which  was  greatly  appreciated,  and  I also 
spoke.  The  collection  for  the  S.  S.  Fund  reached  §3.  I 
preached  at  night. 

The  next  day  went  with  Brother  U.  to  see  the  agent 
who  has  been  looking  for  a house  for  us,  then  to  see  several 
other  people,  but  did  not  find  much  encouragement.  In 
the  evening  held  Quarterly  Conference  and  afterward 
went  to  see  another  agent  whom  we  engaged  to  help  in 
the  search  for  property.  To  morrow  we  are  to  have  a 
special  service  in  the  chapel.  . . . 


June  18. 

We  started  for  Huatusco  Thursday  morning  at  four 
o’clock  and  reached  our  destination  about  2 p.  m.  The 
road  is  the  most  picturesque  and  the  roughest  I have 
seen  in  Mexico.  We  did  what  we  could  in  the  way  of 
prospecting  for  the  opening  of  work  here,  and  started  on 
our  return  Friday  afternoon  at  two  o’clock,  reaching  San 
Juan  Coscomatepec  four  hours  later.  Spent  the  worst 
of  nights  in  a room  next  to  one  in  which  gambling,  drink- 
ing, and  fighting  were  going  on  the  whole  night  and  till 
long  after  daylight.  We  left  there  at  six  o’clock  and 
reached  here  soon  after  noon,  quite  tired  and  very  much 
overheated. 

We  shall  have  the  usual  services  to-morrow.  I shall 
preach  twice  and  administer  the  Sacrament.  I hope  to 
reach  home  Monday  night.  . . . 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


171 


Pachuca,  June  28. 

I reached  here  at  noon  after  as  pleasant  a journey  as 
possible  under  the  circumstances,  having  felt  quite  sick 
all  the  way.  As  a consequence  I am  quite  tired  and  used 
up  to-night.  On  my  arrival  I found  the  Mission  House 
locked  up,  and  Brother  Barker  and  family  all  away. 
Misses  Hastings  and  Elliott  received  me  very  kindly  and 
gave  me  a little  dinner,  and  I also  took  tea  with  them. 
Spent  most  of  the  afternoon  with  Fred  Bawden  and  Dr. 
Estabrook. 

Brother  Barker  came  home  about  five  o’clock  and  in 
the  evening  we  had  service  and  I preached.  We  start  to 
Tezontepec  early  to  morrow  morning  and  will  return  here 
Friday.  I shall  probably  be  obliged  to  remain  over  Sun- 
day, but  hope  to  get  home  Monday  evening.  . . . 

Leon,  July  19. 

Gamboa,  his  friend,  and  myself  had  a pleasant  ride  to 
Salamanca.  We  met  Aguilar  of  the  Church  South  on  the 
train,  on  his  way  to  Guadalajara,  and  had  considerable 
conversation  with  him.  We  reached  Irapuato  at  seven 
o’clock  and  met  at  the  station  the  conductor  of  the 
freight  train  to  Silao,  who  agreed  to  take  me  with  him 
that  far. 

I stayed  at  the  hotel  de  Guerrero,  and  had  a miserable 
room  and  as  bad  food,  but  got  through  the  night  all  right. 
The  next  morning  went  to  the  railway  station  at  eight 
o’clock  and  had  to  wait  till  eleven  before  the  train  was 
ready  to  start.  I rode  on  the  front  of  the  engine,  and  we 
came  very  near  running  into  some  cattle.  I climbed  up 
and  back  alongside  the  boiler  in  a hurry,  but  the  danger 
was  averted  fortunately. 

We  arrived  at  Silao  about  noon  and  I was  invited  to 
dinner  at  the  Skiltons’,  and  had  a very  pleasant  visit  of 
nearly  three  hours  with  them.  Then  a messenger  came 


172 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


to  say  that  the  Leon  train  was  in  and  would  leave  in 
half  an  hour.  General  Shaler  invited  me  to  drive  to  the 
station  with  him. 

After  all,  the  train  was  delayed  till  five  o’clock,  but 
we  finally  reached  Leon  about  half  past  six.  . . . 

Pachuca,  August  23,  1882. 

I reached  here  safely  at  nine  o’clock  Saturday  night, 
preached  three  times  Sunday,  and  had  a good  day  in 
spite  of  feeling  half  sick  with  a headache.  Yesterday, 
we  started  for  El  Chico  about  seven  o’clock  in  the  morn- 
ing and  before  we  had  gone  a league,  Brother  Barker’s 
horse  had  a bad  fall  on  the  stones  and  came  near  break- 
ing the  brother’s  leg.  After  that  we  had  to  go  very  slowly, 
so  did  not  reach  our  destination  till  eleven  o’clock. 

We  had  a pleasant  visit  of  several  hours  and  started 
back  at  five,  but  it  rained  most  of  the  way  and  we  had 
to  ride  so  slowly  that  it  was  eight  o’clock  before  we 
reached  Pachuca.  I was  very  tired  and  went  to  bed  as 
soon  as  supper  was  over. 

We  are  going  out  to  Santa  Gertrudis  this  morning  in 
the  phaeton,  and  this  afternoon  to  Huasca  on  horseback, 
seven  leagues,  half  way  to  Tulancingo,  where  we  ought  to 
arrive  by  nine  or  ten  o’clock  to-morrow.  Hope  to  be 
home  on  Monday  or  Tuesday.  . . . 


Apizaco,  September  2. 

I arrived  here  this  morning  at  ten  o’clock  and  found 
Brother  Mesa  waiting  for  me  at  the  station.  We  went 
to  the  hotel  and  secured  a room  and  then  arranged  about 
getting  together  the  things  belonging  to  the  church.  Got 
the  chapel  opened  to  air  and  dry  it,  and  hired  a woman  to 
sweep  and  dust  it  properly,  and  now  must  sally  forth  to 
finish  preparations  for  church  services  to-morrow  and 
the  opening  of  school  on  Monday. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


173 


This  Apizaco  is  a fearfully  unattractive  place,  but 
there  is  great  need  of  Mission  work  here,  and  I hope  and 
pray  that  we  may  be  able  by  God’s  blessing  to  establish 
a strong  congregation  here.  I have  been  greatly  com- 
forted ever  since  last  Saturday,  by  2 Corinthians  2.  14, 
which  I venture  to  believe  will  be  fulfilled  in  some  meas- 
ure in  my  ministry.  . . . 


(From  one  of  my  letters  home) 

Queretaro,  October  2,  1882. 

I came  up  here  three  weeks  ago,  by  myself.  There  was 
at  least  one  incident  to  relieve  the  monotony  of  the  jour- 
ney. Shortly  before  we  reached  San  Juan  del  Rio,  we 
ran  over  a large  stone  or  some  other  obstruction  which 
gave  us  a great  jolt  as  we  went  over  it.  They  did  not  stop, 
however,  to  see  what  it  was  or  whether  any  damage  had 
been  done,  and  we  reached  San  Juan  all  right.  Here  all 
the  passengers  except  three  or  four  Mexicans  and  myself 
got  out  for  dinner.  I had  just  spread  out  my  lunch  when 
the  train  began  moving,  and  almost  at  the  same  moment 
the  people,  including  the  conductor  and  brakeman  who 
were  on  the  station  platform,  began  shouting,  “No,  no,” 
and  making  violent  gestures ; then  some  one  began  pulling 
the  bell  rope,  and  for  a moment  or  two  there  was  great 
excitement.  I supposed  another  train  was  about  to  run 
into  us,  so  gathered  up  my  belongings  and  was  out  in  less 
time  than  it  takes  to  tell  it. 

They  soon  discovered  the  cause  of  the  trouble.  When 
we  ran  over  that  stone  it  broke  one  of  the  wheels  of  the 
first  class  car  and  it  had  come  the  rest  of  the  way  just 
sliding  along  the  rails.  When  we  stopped  at  San  Juan 
and  they  attempted  to  back  the  train,  it  would  not  move 
and  the  cars  came  very  nearly  piling  up  there  in  a heap. 

The  car  with  the  broken  wheel  could  be  taken  no 


174 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


further,  so  the  passengers  were  transferred  to  a forward 
car. 

A Mexican  gentleman  who  sat  near  me  came  and  asked 
me  if  I would  not  go  with  him  and  his  sister  to  dinner. 
When  I declined,  having  my  lunch  with  me,  he  asked  if  he 
might  leave  his  money  in  my  care.  (He  had  one  of  those 
large  bags  of  silver  dollars.)  I consented,  and  he  brought 
it  over  and  left  it  with  me  till  we  reached  Queretaro. 

Mr.  Greenman  was  waiting  for  me  at  the  station.  T 
found  them  all  well  and  Emily  more  beguiling  than  ever. 
Ten  days  later  her  little  brother  arrived. 

The  following  week  C.  telegraphed  me  that  he  was  called 
to  Guanajuato,  and  would  like  me  to  join  him  and  go  on 
there  for  a brief  visit. 

We  went  as  far  as  Silao  the  first  afternoon,  arriving 
there  about  half  past  six.  Just  after  we  left  Queretaro, 
some  Americans  who  were  in  the  same  car  with  us,  told 
us  that  near  Celaya,  a place  that  has  a very  bad  reputa- 
tion, the  freight  train  we  had  passed  at  the  last  station 
had  been  fired  upon  by  a band  of  robbers,  and  it  was 
feared  they  would  attack  our  train  too. 

C.  as  usual,  did  not  believe  there  was  any  danger, 
though  he  did  tell  me  that  in  case  they  began  firing  I must 
drop  down  between  the  seats  immediately,  and  stay  there. 
The  other  American  woman  and  myself  felt  rather  nerv- 
ous about  it,  and  for  an  hour  or  more  sat  looking  out, 
expecting  every  minute  to  hear  or  see  or  feel  the  bullets 
crashing  through. 

At  Silao  we  were  told  that  it  was  not  the  freight  train 
that  had  been  fired  upon,  but  a hand  car  full  of  workmen. 
They  came  upon  the.  robbers  unexpectedly,  surprising  them 
in  the  act  of  putting  obstructions  on  the  track,  probably 
preparing  for  the  passenger  train.  The  workmen  were 
well  armed,  however,  and  the  robbers  had  to  retreat. 

Here  we  met  a young  American,  about  nineteen,  en- 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


175 


gineer  on  the  road  from  Silao  to  Guanajuato.  The  day 
before  as  he  was  backing  the  train,  the  engine  ran  over 
and  killed  a man  who  was  walking  on  the  track.  The  boy, 
however,  did  not  know  it  and  went  on  to  Silao  and  came 
back,  only  to  find  officers  and  a guard  waiting  for  him, 
with  an  order  for  his  arrest.  They  tied  his  hands  behind 
him,  put  him  on  a horse  and  carried  him  off  to  prison  be- 
tween two  mounted  guards  with  drawn  swords.  One 
would  have  thought  they  had  a fierce  and  dangerous  des- 
perado to  deal  with  instead  of  a slender  boyish  fellow 
such  as  he  was. 

Arriving  at  the  prison,  they  announced  that  he  was 
guilty  of  murder,  and  had  him  consigned  to  a dungeon. 
He  was  allowed,  however,  to  telegraph  his  father,  who 
lives  in  Silao,  and  who  is  also  an  engineer.  He  took  a 
special  engine  and  went  to  the  boy  at  once,  heard  his  story 
and  then  called  upon  the  Governor,  stating  the  case.  The 
Governor  gave  him  an  order  for  the  immediate  release  of 
the  boy  and  he  took  him  home  with  him,  so  he  was  in 
prison  only  a few  hours. 

At  Silao  we  went  to  the  hotel  and  had  supper*  and 
afterward  called  on  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Skilton.  They  insisted 
on  our  staying  all  night  with  them  and  sent  to  the  hotel 
for  our  baggage.  We  spent  a most  pleasant  evening. 
They  are  delightful  people  and  among  the  most  hospitable 
Americans  we  have  met  in  Mexico. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  left  Silao  by  diligence  for 
Guanajuato,  arriving  there  about  noon.  We  stayed  at  the 
Mission  house,  though  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Craver  were  not  at 
home.  In  the  afternoon  we  took  a long  walk  through  the 
city.  It  is  a very  queer  place.  I do  not  believe  there 
could  be  more  crooked,  irregular  streets,  and  the  houses 
are  built  on  the  sides  of  the  hills  and  so  close  together 
that  from  a distance  they  look  as  though  they  were  built 
on  top  of  each  other.  Indeed,  some  of  the  upper  rows  of 


176 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


houses  project  over  the  back  rooms  of  the  houses  below. 
The  streets  are  very  narrow,  too,  besides  being  so  crooked. 

Saturday  evening  they  were  crowded  with  miners  and 
a motley  lot  of  other  people,  the  dirtiest  and  most 
wretched  looking  I have  yet  seen. 

On  Sunday  there  was  Sunday  school  at  nine  o’clock, 
preaching  an  hour  later,  and  love  feast  in  the  afternoon, 
also  preaching  and  the  Lord’s  Supper  at  night.  There  was 
quite  a large  attendance  at  every  service.  The  congrega- 
tion in  Guanajuato  is  the  largest  in  the  Mission. 

Mr.  Loza,  the  Mexican  preacher  in  charge  of  the  work 
here  during  Mr.  Craver’s  absence,  was  very  anxious  for 
me  to  say  a few  words  to  the  congregation  at  the  close 
of  the  service,  but  as  I did  not  feel  equal  to  that,  he  an- 
nounced my  “presence  among  them,”  made  some  very  ap- 
preciative remarks,  and  asked  them  to  come  forward  and 
greet  “the  young  wife  of  our  beloved  superintendent,”  and 
assure  her  of  their  affection  and  sympathy,  which  they 
did  most  heartily. 

We  left  Guanajuato  early  Monday  afternoon,  reached 
Silao  at  six  o’clock,  and  there  took  the  train  for  Leon, 
arriving  about  dai*k.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Kemble  were  at  the 
station  to  meet  us  and  we  spent  three  pleasant  days  with 
them.  One  afternoon  Mr.  K.  got  a carriage  and  took  us 
for  a long  drive  in  the  country.  Some  parts  of  it  looked 
much  like  our  own  country. 

At  a special  service  the  second  night  of  our  stay,  C. 
preached  to  a congregation  of  twenty-seven,  besides  the 
members  of  the  Mission,  which  seemed  very  encouraging, 
considering  the  short  time  since  they  began  work  here. 
Larger  congregations  are  sure  to  follow. 

C.’s  district  now  extends  from  Leon  on  the  north  to 
Cordoba  on  the  south,  besides  Pachuca  and  Puebla,  which 
are  on  branch  roads.  I have  been  now  to  every  place  in 
the  Mission  except  three  or  four  small  Indian  towns.  Mr. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


177 


K.  says  lie  thinks  an  allowance  ought  to  be  made  for  my 
traveling  expenses  too,  so  that  I could  go  with  C.  always 
to  cheer  up  the  sisters  as  C.  does  the  brethren. 

Thursday  we  were  up  at  four  o’clock  and  started  at 
five  for  Salamanca,  where  we  arrived  about  nine,  and 
spent  the  rest  of  the  day  and  night  there.  At  the  evening 
service  C.  preached  and  administered  the  Lord’s  Supper, 
more  than  fifty  being  present. 

Gamboa,  the  preacher  in  charge  of  this  work,  is  one 
of  those  who  studied  with  C.  in  Puebla.  He  has  a very 
nice  wife,  and  they  are  both  much  beloved.  She  plays 
the  flute  quite  well,  and  at  the  service  that  night,  I played 
the  organ  and  she  accompanied  with  the  flute,  and  it  was 
considered  a great  success. 

Friday  morning  we  came  on  here,  where  I am  to  remain 
a few  days  longer.  C.  went  on  to  Mexico  City  and  has 
written  me  of  his  safe  arrival.  He  says  Mr.  Johnston  was 
on  the  train,  and  took  him  forward  to  ride  on  the  engine 
with  him  from  Popotla  to  Mexico  City.  He  enjoyed  the 
experience,  though  they  did  knock  a donkey  off  into  the 
ditch  and  left  him,  as  he  says,  “ a fit  object  for  the  chari- 
table attentions  of  the  S.  P.  C.  A.”  At  another  place  they 
came  upon  a large  stick  of  wood  that  had  been  placed 
upon  the  rails,  evidently  with  evil  intent,  but  the  loco- 
motive pushed  it  to  one  side  instead  of  trying  to  run 
over  it. 

C.  sent  me  a copy  of  the  Mexican  Financier,  a very  live 
paper  edited  by  a bright  young  American  Jew,  which  has 
an  interesting  article  in  this  week’s  issue,  on  the  arrest 
and  imprisonment  of  two  Americans,  accused  of  speaking 
evil  of  the  President,  of  whom  nothing  too  bad  could 
be  said. 

If  the  Mexican  government  were  not  afraid,  they  would 
send  the  editor  of  this  paper  out  of  the  country  as  they 
did  a French  editor  a few  weeks  ago,  as  a “pernicious 


178 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


foreigner,”  but  this  man  represents  too  large  American 
interests  to  be  dealt  with  in  that  way.  . . . 

(From  my  letter  of  November  7) 

We  are  just  home  from  a visit  to  Pachuca,  where  we 
went  to  attend  a dedication  service  at  Real  del  Monte,  a 
place  several  miles  further  on.  Real  del  Monte  is  over 
8,000  feet  above  sea  level,  the  highest  point  in  the  world 
where  a Protestant  church  has  been  built,  so  they  say. 
Mr.  Barker  and  C.  went  on  horseback  from  Pachuca,  I in 
a diligence  with  a party  of  Cornish  people,  who  were  spe- 
cially interested  in  the  new  church. 

It  was  nearly  one  o’clock  when  we  reached  our  destina- 
tion and  was  a long,  hot,  tiresome  drive.  The  exercises 
began  with  a tea  meeting,  a great  institution  among  Eng- 
lish people  and  very  popular.  They  had  arranged  such  a 
long  program  that  it  was  nearly  dark  when  they  finished. 

The  formal  dedication  services  were  held  the  next  day, 
and  as  the  church  is  for  both  the  English  and  Spanish 
congregations,  dedicatory  sermons  were  preached  in  both 
languages,  Dr.  Fuentes  speaking  in  Spanish  and  C.  in 
English.  It  was  reported  that  there  was  to  be  an  attempt 
to  blow  up  the  place  that  day,  and  that  a train  of  powder 
or  dynamite  had  been  laid,  ready  to  set  off  at  the  proper 
moment,  but  if  there  was  such  a plan,  something  inter- 
fered with  it,  for  everything  passed  off  very  quietly. 

Sunday  there  was  class  meeting  at  8 o’clock  in  the  morn- 
ing, Spanish  preaching  at  11,  English  at  3 o'clock,  Quar- 
terly Conference  in  English  immediately  afterward, 
Spanish  services  and  a baptism,  at  night,  and  after  that, 
Quarterly  Conference  in  Spanish ! C.  attended  and  took 
part  in  all  of  them. 

The  next  morning  there  were  business  matters  to  attend 
to,  which  took  up  all  the  time  till  noon,  and  at  one  o’clock 
we  started  home.  There  is  a line  of  horse  cars  for  some 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


179 


distance,  and  then  a diligence  line  of  about  an  hour,  be- 
fore reaching  the  railroad.  We  had  an  unusually  disagree- 
able journey.  The  people  in  the  diligence  were  extremely 
dirty  and  some  of  them  smoked  so  constantly  that  we 
were  almost  suffocated.  One  big  fellow  who  was  evidently 
much  the  worse  for  pulque,  made  himself  particularly 
obnoxious.  Then  we  had  to  wait  in  a cold  windy  place 
more  than  an  hour,  and  when  the  train  finally  came,  it  was 
very  much  crowded  and  the  cars  had  been  kept  closed 
until  the  smoke  and  foul  odors  had  made  the  atmosphere 
almost  intolerable.  To  add  to  all  this,  some  third  class 
passengers  brought  a large  skin  of  pulque  into  the  car, 
and  the  skin  got  broken  or  came  untied,  and  flooded  the 
car  with  that  sticky  liquid.  We  had  to  put  our  baggage 
on  the  seat  and  sit  on  top  of  it.  We  finally  reached  home, 
however,  only  half  an  hour  behind  time  and  but  tem- 
porarily the  worse  for  our  disagreeable  experience. 

Orizava,  November  12,  1882. 

I arrived  here  safely  yesterday  evening.  The  day  was 
very  pleasant,  and  the  views  of  the  mountains,  coming 
down,  charming.  Brother  Umpleby  met  me  at  the  sta- 
tion. He  and  his  wife  are  both  looking  very  badly,  and 
seem  to  be  unable  to  recover  from  the  shock  of  their  baby’s 
death.  It  is  exceedingly  depressing  here. 

This  morning  I met  Hilarion  Bonilla  and  his  brother 
on  the  street,  and  they  came  to  Sunday  school  and  church 
to-day.  I had  a good  deal  of  talk  with  them,  and  Hilarion 
stayed  a while  with  Lopez  after  I came  away.  Lopez  was 
called  out  a moment,  and  on  going  back  found  Hilarion 
crying.  When  asked  what  was  the  matter,  he  confessed 
that  he  felt  very  badly  for  having  left  the  Puebla  school 
as  he  did,  said  he  knew  he  had  treated  us  all  badly  and 
felt  very  sorry  and  would  like  to  go  back. 

It  has  given  me  great  pleasure  to  hear  this.  The  boy 


180 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


is  much  grown,  was  quite  well  dressed,  and  looks  as 
though  he  had  no  bad  habits.  I feel  as  though  the  seed 
sown  in  his  mind  and  heart  has  not  been  and  will  not  be 
fruitless. 

We  have  had  a very  good  Sunday;  there  was  a large 
attendance  at  the  services  to-night,  and  things  in  general 
are  more  encouragiug  here  than  1 have  seen  them  for  some 
time.  To-morrow  I shall  have  to  be  stirring  about  lively, 
looking  after  that  property  question.  I hope  and  pray 
that  we  may  succeed  in  securing  something  suitable.  . . . 

During  this  year,  1882,  Mr.  Drees  traveled  in  the  su- 
perintendency of  the  Mission  nearly  8,000  miles.  On  the 
last  day  of  December,  he  rode  twelve  miles  on  horseback, 
preached  four  times,  baptized  two  children,  held  a Quar- 
terly Conference  and  a Watch  Night  service. 


CHAPTER  X 


(To  his  father  and  mother) 

Mexico  City,  January  30,  1883. 

It  is  a good  while  since  I have  written  home,  but  you 
know  that  I am  a very  busy  man  these  days,  especially 
in  the  opening  of  a new  year’s  work,  and  holding  our 
Annual  Meeting.  In  the  absence  of  a bishop,  I was  asked 
to  preside  this  year,  and  we  had  a very  pleasant  and  har- 
monious session. 

Our  work  generally  is  in  an  encouraging  condition,  and 
we  have  reason  to  anticipate  a prosperous  year.  There 
are  a good  many  probabilities  that  Ada  and  I will  have 
a six  months’  vacation,  so  as  to  make  a visit  home  this 
year.  I have,  however,  several  important  matters  to 
arrange  which  I feel  I must  see  concluded  before  I leave. 
One  is  the  purchase  of  property  in  Orizava,  another, 
negotiations  for  a change  of  property  in  Puebla,  and  a 
third  the  repairs  on  our  new  property  in  Queretaro.  I am 
doing  all  I can  to  push  these  things  along  so  as  to  con- 
clude them  by  the  first  of  May.  If  I succeed  in  this  and 
no  other  obstacle  should  arise,  and  if  our  Board  of 
Managers  will  give  us  leave  of  absence,  we  shall  be  at 
home  soon  after  the  first  of  June. 

The  mere  anticipation  of  this  is  giving  us  great  pleasure 
already.  It  seems  almost  too  good  to  be  realizable! 

I am  making  arrangements  to  take  with  us  the  young 
boy,  Galdino  Gutierrez,  of  whom  we  wrote  some  time  ago. 
I hope  to  have  him  enter  the  Ohio  Wesleyan  University 
next  September.  I have  secured  nearly  enough  money  to 
pay  his  way  to  the  States,  and  will  trust  in  God  for  means 

181 


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THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


for  his  support  at  Delaware,  hoping  for  some  aid  from 
the  Board  of  Education  and  friends.  I am  also  counting 
a little  on  the  cooperation  of  the  young  people’s  society 
in  Xenia.  Can  you  not  lay  the  case  before  them,  and 
enlist  their  interest  to  the  extent  of  saving  their  funds 
for  this  purpose? 

Galdino  is  a good  Christian  boy  and  will,  I have  no 
doubt,  make  the  best  use  of  his  opportunities.  The  chief 
reason  why  I am  anxious  to  have  him  go  to  Delaware  is 
that  he  may  be  fitted  to  do  thorough,  advanced  educa- 
tional work  in  our  Mission  here,  in  future  years.  He 
seems  well  adapted  for  this,  and  I have  great  hopes  of 
him. 

I hope  to  be  able  to  do  some  good,  and  to  get  a great 
deal  of  good,  while  we  are  at  home.  Pray  that  the  way 
may  be  opened  up  for  us  to  go,  and  that  we  may  be  greatly 
blessed  in  so  doing.  . . . 


Puebla,  February  14,  1883. 

Arrived  here  in  good  condition  Saturday  morning. 
Brother  Siberts  met  me  at  the  station  and  brought  me  to 
their  house.  Found  them  all  well  and  had  a warm  wel- 
come from  Paul  and  Bessie.  They  are  very  nice  children 
and  improving  all  the  time.  After  dinner  I went  with  Mr. 
Thomas  and  his  party  to  Cholula,  returning  about  seven 
o’clock.  It  was  cool  and  pleasant,  and  the  evening  land- 
scape and  sunset  were  beautiful.  All  the  members  of  the 
party  were  delighted  with  the  expedition. 

Sunday  I preached  morning  and  evening,  and  spent 
part  of  the  afternoon  with  the  Philadelphia  party.  They 
attended  church  in  the  morning  and  gave  eight  dollars  to 
the  collection.  Yesterday,  Monday,  was  a very  busy  day. 
We  were  taking  action  with  reference  to  the  purchase  of  a 
lot  which  we  hope  the  Missionary  Society  will  take. 
Meanwhile,  Brother  Siberts  and  I assume  the  responsi- 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


183 


bility.  The  matter  is  not  quite  finished  and  I may  be  de- 
tained here  longer  than  I had  expected  to  be.  This  sense 
of  responsibility  is  sometimes  very  wearing.  Pray  that 
we  may  be  guided  aright. 

Last  night  we  had  the  largest  congregation  I have  seen 
here  for  a long  time,  larger  even  than  on  Sunday  night. 
I feel  greatly  cheered  and  encouraged.  . . . 

Orizava,  February  19. 

My  journey  from  Puebla  was  uneventful,  but  I found, 
on  arriving  here,  a “Norther,”  with  its  attendant  chill 
and  damp,  and  it  is  colder  than  I have  ever  felt  it  in 
Orizava.  Last  night  we  had  a good  meeting,  about  seventy 
being  present.  I preached  and  had  some  liberty,  as  the 
old  preachers  used  to  say. 

This  morning  went  out  to  make  inquiries  about  the 
house  that  is  offered  to  us ; found  that  the  party  in  charge 
of  it  knows  me  and  what  I want  it  for,  but  is  entirely 
willing  to  sell  it  to  us.  I secured  the  refusal  of  it  till  the 
27th  of  this  month.  By  that  time  we  shall  know  certainly 
whether  there  is  any  other  opening.  If  not,  we  shall  take 
this  property  and  proceed  at  once  to  put  it  in  order  for 
occupancy. 

I earnestly  hope  that  three  or  four  weeks  more  will  see 
the  Orizava  and  Puebla  properties  secured,  and  repairs 
planned  and  underway  in  those  places  and  in  Queretaro. 
I feel  greatly  encouraged  by  the  prospect  of  getting  these 
wearing  anxieties  off  my  mind.  . . . 

In  March,  Mr.  Drees  again  visited  Queretaro,  Guana- 
juato, and  Leon,  preaching  and  holding  the  usual  quar- 
terly services  in  those  places,  and  endeavoring  to  leave 
everything  in  order  for  a longer  interval  than  usual,  in 
case  we  were  granted  a vacation. 

In  April  he  made  similar  visits  to  Pacliuea,  Puebla,  and 


184 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


Orizava,  succeeding  at  last  in  settling  up  the  long  delayed 
property  matters,  and  getting  possession  of  the  premises. 

(From  my  letter  home,  dated  April  20) 

We  have  with  us  now,  Galdino,  of  whom  C.  has  written 
you,  who  has  a small  room  to  himself;  and  in  the  three 
unfurnished  rooms  on  the  roof  we  have  quartered  a man 
out  of  work,  with  his  wife  and  four  little  children,  Juana, 
our  cook,  and  her  son,  a boy  of  sixteen,  Matilde,  an  old 
woman  without  any  one  to  take  care  of  her,  and  one  of 
the  younger  boys  from  the  orphanage,  who  lately  lost  his 
place  and  is  waiting  for  something  else  to  offer.  To  the 
credit  of  all  concerned,  they  get  along  together  most 
amicably.  . , . 


Mexico  City,  May  9. 

My  dear  Father  axd  Mother  : 

It  is  just  nine  years  to-day  since  I reached  Mexico  City, 
and  this  morning  I received  letters  announcing  that  our 
leave  of  absence  is  granted.  The  Board  of  Managers  of 
the  Missionary  Society  also  took  very  generous  action 
with  reference  to  some  other  matters  I had  pending  be- 
fore them,  so  this  has  been  a very  happy  day  for  us. 

We  are  preparing  to  sail  from  Vera  Cruz  by  the  City 
of  Puebla  for  New  York,  by  way  of  Havana,  on  the  17th, 
one  week  from  to-morrow.  We  should  reach  New  York  on 
the  30th.  I shall  be  delayed  there  two  or  three  days,  to 
consult  with  Secretary  Reid  about  some  matters,  and  then 
we  shall  hasten  to  Xenia  by  the  quickest  route.  We  are 
full  of  thankfulness  at  this  near  prospect  of  seeing  you 
all.  We  pray  that  you  and  we  may  be  graciously  pre- 
served during  the  days  that  must  intervene.  . . . 

We  sailed  from  Vera  Cruz  as  we  had  planned,  taking 
with  us  the  Mexican  boy,  Galdino,  a young  English  girl 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


185 


of  seventeen,  and  a French  boy  of  twelve  who  were  sent 
by  their  parents  in  our  care  to  enter  a school  near  New 
York. 

We  arrived  May  30,  Decoration  Day,  and  the  day  of  the 
formal  opening  of  the  Brooklyn  Bridge.  Early  in  June 
we  went  on  to  our  homes  in  Ohio,  and  all  our  delightful 
anticipations  of  a happy  reunion  with  our  family  and 
friends  were  more  than  realized. 

To  understand  what  these  few  months  were  to  us  after 
an  absence  of  more  than  five  years  and  a half  in  a foreign 
land,  and  under  the  circumstances  portrayed  in  these 
pages,  one  would  need  to  have  a similar  experience. 

As  is  usual  with  missionaries  on  vacation,  these  months 
were  not  spent  in  idleness.  There  was  a great  deal  of 
traveling  to  do  in  the  interests  of  the  Mission,  which  Mr. 
Drees  gladly  undertook,  besides  preaching,  lecturing,  and 
speaking  on  Mexico,  in  various  places. 

The  days  of  rest  and  relaxation  spent  in  company  with 
his  family  and  friends,  and  their  enthusiastic  interest  in 
his  work,  proved  a great  inspiration  to  him  and  sent  him 
back  to  his  difficult  field  of  labor  with  renewed  faith  and 
courage. 

On  our  return  to  Mexico  we  sailed  from  New  York, 
December  13,  1883,  by  the  City  of  Alexandria,  my  young 
est  sister  going  with  us  to  spend  a few  months  there.  The 
only  record  of  the  voyage  are  letters  of  mine  to  my  family, 
the  first  written  from  Havana,  December  18:  We  are 
now  in  Havana,  or  rather  lying  at  anchor  out  in  the  bay, 
about  half  a mile  from  shore.  We  had  very  pleasant 
weather  for  about  thirty-six  hours  after  leaving  New 
York,  and  then  off  Cape  Hatteras  our  troubles  began. 

The  sea  became  so  rough  that  every  thing  not  securely 
fastened  was  being  hurled  about,  the  ship  was  rolling  and 
pitching,  the  wind  howling  and  everj'  thing  most  disagree- 


188 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


able.  To  add  to  all  this  discomfort,  every  one,  even  the 
stewardess,  was  sea  sick.  As  for  ourselves  we  recovered 
as  soon  as  the  wind  lulled,  and  enjoyed  the  rest  of  the 
voyage  very  much. 

There  are  a few  very  agreeable  people  among  the  pas- 
sengers with  whom  we  have  become  acquainted,  one,  a 
delightful  man  who  was  with  Sherman  on  his  march  to 
the  sea.  There  are  several  Cubans  who  speak  English,  and 
one  Cuban  lady  who  informed  us  that  she  has  had  two 
husbands,  eighteen  children,  and  twenty  grandchildren. 
She  talks  every  waking  moment,  and  sings  and  dances 
and  is  the  life  of  the  company. 

We  reached  here  early  this  morning  and  when  we  woke 
found  we  were  almost  in  front  of  Moro  Castle.  We  could 
see  the  light  in  the  tower  quite  distinctly,  but  the  castle 
itself  looked  like  a huge  pile  of  stone  in  the  dim  early 
light.  We  dressed  and  hurried  up  on  deck  just  as  we 
came  to  anchor  inside  the  bay.  Had  coffee  and  were  soon 
ready  to  go  ashore.  Boats  of  all  sizes  and  descriptions 
were  swarming  about  the  steamer.  We  selected  one  and 
after  only  a few  minutes’  row  reached  the  docks. 

We  walked  up  past  the  site  of  the  first  church  built  on 
this  continent,  marked  now  by  a monument  with  a stone 
tablet,  giving  some  history  of  it;  then  up  through  a pretty 
little  open  square,  and  from  there  through  block  after 
block  of  shops  and  stores  whose  fronts  are  open  to  the 
streets,  displaying  at  a glance  all  their  contents.  They 
looked  very  cool  and  inviting,  most  of  them  having  marble 
floors,  and  their  goods  were  very  tastefully  arranged.  We 
came  at  last  to  the  principal  street  in  the  city  and  sat 
down  in  a shady  place  in  a park,  while  C.  went  to  buy  us 
some  oranges  and  bananas.  Lou  and  I were  both  feeling 
very  dizzy  after  our  five  days  at  sea,  but  this  fruit  quite 
restored  us. 

We  then  took  a small  carriage,  a peculiar  one-seated 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


187 


vehicle  with  an  elevated  seat  in  front  for  the  driver,  and 
drove  first  to  the  Cathedral,  where  we  heard  the  end  of 
a mass,  then  to  a very  pretty  church  called  La  Merced, 
and  from  there  to  the  Captain  General’s  gardens,  a pretty 
but  neglected  place  some  distance  from  the  center  of  the 
city.  After  that  we  visited  the  aristocratic  part  of  town 
where  there  are  the  loveliest  and  most  picturesque  houses 
imaginable,  of  every  color  and  hue,  pale  blue,  pale  pink, 
and  pale  yellow,  as  well  as  many  indefinable  shades.  We 
thought  we  would  like  to  transplant  some  of  them  to  our 
Northern  clime. 

At  noon  we  came  back  to  a hotel  called  the  Telegrafo, 
where  we  had  a delicious  dinner.  The  whole  place  was 
most  attractive,  all  the  rooms  having  marble  floors,  the 
bedrooms  furnished  with  brass  bedsteads,  lace  canopies, 
and  curtains,  all  so  cool  and  inviting.  After  dinner  we 
went  on  a diminutive  railroad  out  to  a suburban  town 
built  all  along  the  bay,  and  the  view  in  every  direction 
was  beautiful.  We  came  back  to  the  steamer  about  three 
o’clock,  tired  enough  after  seeing  so  many  strange  and 
interesting  things  in  so  short  a time. 

We  are  to  leave  here  to-morrow  morning  for  the  next 
port,  Progreso,  400  miles  further  on.  The  weather  here  is 
perfectly  delightful.  . . . 

From  Progreso  there  is  only  a note  to  say  that  we 
reached  there  the  morning  of  December  21,  after  a very 
pleasant  voyage  of  forty-six  hours  from  Havana. 

Mexico  City,  December  26,  1883. 
Dear  Father  and  Mother: 

It  is  the  night  after  Christmas,  and  we  have  had  our 
first  day  in  our  Mexican  home  after  our  long,  happy 
summer. 

We  landed  in  Yera  Cruz  at  noon  of  the  24th,  and  I took 


188 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


the  girls  to  the  hotel,  and  then  returned  to  the  dock  to 
attend  to  the  baggage.  I had  a long,  hard,  hot  afternoon’s 
work,  and  did  not  get  through  till  eight  o’clock  in  the 
evening.  After  supper  we  walked  out  to  the  post  office  to 
mail  our  home  letters  by  the  steamer  which  is  to  sail  on 
Christmas  day.  Then  we  walked  a while  in  the  Plaza, 
watching  the  throng  of  strangely  dressed  people,  returned 
to  the  hotel  and  retired  early. 

The  next  morning  at  five  o’clock  we  were  up  and  our 
train  started  soon  after  six.  We  caught  a fine  view  of  the 
tranquil  sea  as  we  left  the  town  behind  us,  and  in  the 
rosy  glow  of  the  early  morning  we  sped  away  toward  the 
mountains.  We  had  a very  bright  day  and  the  scenery 
was  unusually  fine. 

I saw  Brother  Loza,  our  Mexican  minister  at  Orizava, 
and  had  the  first  report  of  the  state  of  affairs,  which  seems 
generally  satisfactory.  Ada’s  brother  met  us  at  Otumba, 
and  his  appearance  produced  quite  a sensation. 

We  arrived  here  at  8 p.  m.  Brother  Butler  met  \is  at 
the  station  with  some  other  friends.  We  have  had  a very 
cordial  reception,  and  are  cheered  at  the  prospect  we  find 
on  resuming  our  work. 

There  have  been  some  slight  disturbances  of  the  peace 
here,  threatening  difficulty.  The  government,  however, 
seems  to  have  a strong  hand  upon  the  malcontents,  and  I 
think  there  will  be  no  revolution.  The  difficulties  are  of  a 
political  nature  and  have  led  to  no  demonstration  against 
us  as  Protestants. 

It  is  quite  generally  understood  that  General  Diaz  will 
be  next  President.  There  will  be  more  or  less  excitement 
and  uneasiness  until  the  presidential  campaign  is  over, 
which  will  not  be  till  after  the  middle  of  1884. 

I shall  be  up  to  my  eyes  in  work  now  for  many  days, 
in  order  to  bring  up  arrearages.  We  are  all  well  and 
happy.  . . . 


CHAPTER  XI 


Vera  Cruz,  January  12,  1884. 

I got  started  on  my  journey  promptly  and  had  a fairly 
comfortable  time,  arriving  in  good  season  at  Orizava. 
While  the  train  stood  in  the  station  at  Apam,  I saw  Mr. 
Jackson,  the  General  Manager  of  this  road,  who  told  me 
he  had  received  a letter  from  Mr.  Spinney  about  the  ar- 
rival of  Bishop  Warren,  and  that  if  the  bishop  should  so 
desire,  a special  car  will  be  attached  to  the  freight  train 
leaving  Vera  Cruz  at  1 p.  m.  on  the  day  of  his  arrival,  and 
take  him  as  far  as  Orizava  the  same  day. 

Loza  met  me  at  the  railroad  station  in  Orizava  and 
had  a room  prepared  for  me  in  the  Mission  house.  I 
talked  over  some  matters  with  him  and  went  over  the 
property,  which  is  not  as  near  completion  as  I had  hoped 
to  find  it.  Another  thousand  dollars  will  be  needed  to  get 
it  into  anything  like  a finished  condition.  I had  supper, 
preached  a sermon,  administered  the  communion,  and  held 
a long  Quarterly  Conference,  getting  to  bed  quite  tired. 

I had  a pleasant  meeting  with  the  brethren  in  Orizava, 
and  found  the  congregation  in  good  condition  and  enthu- 
siastic in  their  devotion  to  Brother  Loza. 

Friday  morning  had  breakfast  and  went  at  once  to  the 
telegraph  offices  to  be  sure  to  get  my  expected  messages 
promptly.  This  kept  me  running  about  till  train  time, 
when  I got  a message  from  Markoe  that  the  steamer  was 
behind  time  and  could  not  get  in  before  Saturday. 

I came  on  to  Vera  Cruz  in  the  evening,  having  spent 
most  of  the  intervening  time  going  over  Loza’s  accounts 
with  him  and  consulting  about  various  matters.  When  I 

189 


190 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


left  Orizava  at  4 p.  m.  the  weather  was  beginning  to  look 
threatening,  and  as  we  approached  Vera  Cruz  it  became 
evident  that  a Norther  was  on  in  force.  I never  saw  or 
felt  Vera  Cruz  on  this  wise  before! 

It  is  positively  cold  and  the  wind  whistles  and  howls 
as  it  would  take  the  roof  off  the  hotel.  The  waves  last 
night  were  dashing  over  the  mole,  and  the  water  often 
rolled  far  within  the  massive  arches  of  the  gates.  One 
ship  dragged  her  anchor  and  went  ashore  about  half  a 
mile  down  the  coast  to  keep  company  with  the  dismantled 
hull  of  a last  year’s  wreck  and  the  helpless  remains  of  a 
full  rigged  brig  that  was  swept  upon  the  sands  less  than 
two  weeks  ago. 

As  a group  of  men  were  looking  down  toward  the  scene 
of  disaster,  I heard  one  of  them  say  with  evident  truth- 
fulness, that  that  sandy  point  is  becoming  a very  carnpo- 
santo,  a ship’s  burial  ground. 

The  steamer  is  not  even  in  sight  and  it  is  now  quite 
probable  she  will  not  be  in  before  to-morrow.  The  bishop 
and  party  will  then  doubtless  go  as  far  as  Orizava,  and 
there  wait  for  Monday’s  train  to  Mexico  City. 

I shall  wait  here  now  until  I hear  something  of  them. 
May  the  Lord  of  earth  and  sky  bring  them  safely  through 
the  storm ! It  is  approaching  sunset  and  though  the  wind 
is  not  quite  so  strong  it  has  not  changed  direction.  The 
waves  are  not  so  high,  but  I hear  their  commotion  as  I 
write. 

I have  been  so  driven  of  late  that  I am  feeling  very 
tired.  I hope  after  Annual  Meeting  to  slacken  speed  a 
little  and  have  a week  or  two  of  comparative  rest.  . . . 

(To  his  father) 

Mexico  City,  February  24. 

This  is  the  first  opportunity  I have  had  for  several 
weeks  to  sit  down  quietly  and  write  a home  letter.  As 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


191 


you  know,  Bishop  Warren  and  his  party  arrived  on  the 
14th  of  January.  From  that  time  till  Wednesday  of  this 
week,  my  time  was  incessantly  occupied,  first  with  Annual 
Meeting  affairs,  and  then  in  accompanying  the  bishop  in 
the  general  visitation  of  the  Mission. 

He  visited  rapidly  all  our  central  Mission  stations,  in- 
spected the  property  and  addressed  our  congregations, 
his  tour  closing  when  he  left  Puebla  last  week.  I accom- 
panied him  as  far  as  Apizaco,  and  saw  him  and  his  family 
safely  started  for  Vera  Cruz.  I have  received  a letter 
from  him  to-day,  written  just  as  the  ship  weighed  anchor 
and  got  underway. 

When  I reached  home  I found  that  Brother  and  Sister 
CravePs  little  girl,  a beautiful  child  three  years  of  age, 
had  died  and  been  buried  that  day.  She  had  scarlet  fever 
and  was  sick  only  three  days.  Our  Annual  Meeting  had 
been  adjourned  but  a week  when  one  of  our  Mexican  min- 
isters died  in  Queretaro,  and  I had  to  hasten  thither  to 
attend  the  funeral.  The  mother  of  another  of  our 
preachers  is  now  at  the  point  of  death,  so  you  see  our  year 
is  beginning  amid  sore  afflictions.  Still  we  are  not  dis- 
mayed. 

Mrs.  Greenman  and  her  children  will  soon  be  with  us 
again,  and  I had  news  yesterday  of  the  arrival  in  Vera 
Cruz  of  Brother  L.  C.  Smith  and  family,  newly  appointed 
to  this  field. 

Brother  Butler  and  wife  will  leave  here  in  about  three 
weeks  on  their  six  months’  vacation,  just  granted  them 
by  the  Board.  They  expect  to  go  overland,  as  the  railroad 
will  be  about  finished  by  that  time.  It  is  now  expected 
that  through  trains  will  be  running  by  the  15th  of  March. 
The  time  to  New  York  will  be  about  six  days  and  six 
hours ; about  five  days  to  Cincinnati.  The  fare  from  here 
to  the  frontier  will  be  less  than  $60.  We  will  have  daily 
mails  in  a few  days. 


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THIRTEEN  YEARS  TN  MEXICO 


The  most  novel  event  of  the  last  few  weeks  was  our  as- 
cent of  Popocatepetl.  We  chose  the  time  of  full  moon,  so 
as  to  have  light  during  the  early  morning  climb.  I went 
out  to  Ameea  Meca,  a town  near  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
on  Wednesday  afternoon,  in  order  to  have  horses,  guides, 
etc.,  ready  for  the  next  day.  Bishop  Warren,  Mr.  W.  S. 
Iliff,  and  Brother  Barker  came  out  on  the  Thursday  morn- 
ing train  and  Mrs.  Warren  and  Ada  came  with  them,  to 
see  us  start  off  on  our  adventure. 

I had  everything  ready  and  after  we  had  eaten  a hasty 
dinner,  we  started  off  at  just  one  o’clock.  We  had  to  take 
with  us  a box  of  provisions,  and  blankets  to  provide  for 
our  comfort  during  our  night  on  the  mountain.  We  were 
gotten  up  regardless  of  appearances,  dressed  in  old 
clothes,  and  with  cheap  wide  straw  hats  as  pi’otection 
against  the  sun. 

We  formed  quite  a cavalcade  as  we  filed  out  of  town. 
There  were  the  four  travelers  and  the  master  of  horse, 
mounted  upon  five  as  sorry  looking  beasts  as  you  would 
care  to  see,  the  pack  mule  piled  high  with  our  provisions 
and  bedding,  and  the  four  guides  afoot. 

About  a league  out  of  town  our  road  began  a rapid 
ascent  of  the  far  stretching  ridges  and  spurs  of  the  moun- 
tain chain.  We  crossed  deep  gulches  and  mounted  lofty 
ridges  of  sand  and  scoriae  until  we  reached  the  limit  of 
timber  growth,  not  far  from  12,000  feet  above  the  sea 
level.  Then  a rapid  descent  for  a short  distance  brought 
us  to  our  halting  place  at  a ranch,  called  Tlamacas,  which 
was  nothing  but  a deserted  hut  or  two,  once  used  by  the 
laborers  employed  in  getting  sulphur  out  of  the  crater 
of  the  volcano.  We  had  ridden  nearly  five  hours  and  made 
a distance  of  fifteen  or  eighteen  miles. 

From  our  stopping  place,  far  off  to  the  east  over  the 
plains  of  Puebla,  we  could  see  the  lofty  summits  of  Ori- 
zava  and  Mount  Malinche,  just  reddening  in  the  rays  of 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


193 


the  setting  sun.  Above  us  towered  the  still  unsealed  snow 
crowned  summit  of  Popocatepetl,  from  six  to  seven  thou- 
sand feet  higher. 

It  was  quite  cold  and  we  soon  had  a roaring  fire  in  the 
center  of  one  of  the  shanties.  There  was  no  chimney,  the 
atmosphere  was  very  much  rarefied,  and  we  soon  found 
that  the  smoke  was  disposed  to  go  any  way  but  upward. 

When  our  guides  caine  up  with  the  baggage  we  un- 
packed the  provisions  and  bedding,  ate  a hasty  supper 
and  at  eight  o’clock  lay  down  to  rest  and  sleep,  prepara- 
tory to  our  morning  climb.  For  myself  I could  not  sleep, 
and  was  up  and  down  all  night,  now  replenishing  the  fire, 
now  looking  after  the  horses,  which  became  somewhat 
restive,  now  out  in  the  night  watching  the  moon  rise  be- 
yond the  peak  of  Orizava. 

At  half  past  one  I aroused  our  sleeping  party  and  the 
guides,  and  we  began  our  preparations  for  the  ascent ; tied 
on  our  hats,  had  our  legs  bandaged  with  long  strips  of 
flannel,  got  on  gTeat  coats  and  blankets,  and  were  ready 
to  mount.  At  just  three  o’clock,  we  set  off  in  the  moon- 
light, single  file,  with  a guide  ahead  to  lead  the  way. 

We  crossed  a wooded  ridge,  went  down  and  up  the  pre- 
cipitous sides  of  a deep  gulley  worn  in  the  mountain  side 
by  the  torrents  from  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  volcano,  and 
had  soon  left  behind  us  all  traces  of  vegetation  and  were 
laboriously  climbing  vast  sloping  plains  or  inclines  of 
sand,  volcanic  ash  and  scoriae,  into  which  the  horses’ 
hoofs  sank  deep  at  every  step. 

The  labored  breathing  and  frequent  halting  of  the  poor 
animals  showed  that  we  were  invading  the  regions  of 
upper  air  and  should  soon  have  to  leave  our  horses.  After 
two  hours’  zigzag  climbing  on  horseback,  we  halted  and 
dismounted  under  the  lea  of  a huge  rock  which,  for  the 
moment,  protected  us  from  the  icy  breeze  which  we  were 
to  have  in  our  faces  the  rest  of  the  ascent.  Then  each 


194 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


man  with  his  guide  faced  the  steep  ascent  and  began  the 
morning’s  work.  It  was  now  five  o’clock,  and  the  east 
began  to  redden  with  the  first  streaks  of  dawn. 

Half  an  hour’s  work  in  the  loose  sand  and  volcanic 
debris  brought  us  to  the  edge  of  the  snow,  and  looking  up 
we  could  see  an  apparently  limitless  stretch  of  snow  field, 
many  hundreds  of  feet  wide,  lying  at  an  angle  of  about 
forty-five  degrees  and  rising  into  the  inky  blue  of  the  sky. 
The  snow  was  frozen  hard  and  fortunately  did  not  present 
an  even  surface,  but  was  broken  into  ridges  and  depres- 
sions which  afforded  easy  foot  hold. 

On  we  went,  stepping  slowly  and  cautiously  in  the 
places  indicated  by  the  guides,  stopping  now  and  again 
with  greater  and  greater  frequency  as  our  breath  came 
shorter  and  shorter;  at  times  throwing  ourselves  down  in 
a furrow  of  the  snow  and  turning  our  backs  to  the  wind, 
which  howled  about  us  and  came  in  gusts  as  if  angry  and 
minded  to  hurl  us  back  down  the  slope. 

An  hour,  two  hours  passed,  and  we  seemed  scarcely  to 
have  made  a beginning  of  the  work  before  us.  The  red 
horizon  grew  more  and  more  brilliant  until  at  last  the 
sun  shot  up  above  the  dark  line  of  mist  and  illuminated 
the  vast  expanse  beneath  us.  The  snowy  summit  of 
Orizava  looked  coldly  at  us  across  the  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  of  distance.  Malinche  frowned  upon  us  in  the  fore- 
ground and,  over  to  the  left  as  we  looked  eastward,  the 
rugged  heights  of  Ixtaccihuatl  seemed  near  at  hand  across 
the  mountain  pass. 

As  the  day  grew  brighter,  the  vast  plains  of  Puebla 
came  distinctly  into  view,  covered  in  part  with  clouds  so 
far  beneath  us  that  the  sun  shining  upon  their  upper  sur- 
face made  them  look  like  vast  fields  of  snow,  pierced  here 
and  there  by  wooded  summits  of  hills.  Even  high  emi- 
nences were  lost  in  the  common  level  spread  out  before  us. 

Over  to  our  right,  as  we  faced  the  mountain  slope,  could 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


195 


be  distinctly  seen  without  an  intervening  cloud  or  patch 
of  mist,  the  placid  waters  of  lakes  Chaleo  and  Texcoco, 
and  with  the  glass  I carried  the  City  of  Mexico  could  be 
descried.  The  thermometer  marked  two  degrees  Centi- 
grade, or  five  degrees  Fahrenheit  below  freezing  point. 

Bishop  Warren  and  Mr.  Iliff  were  a little  in  advance 
and  as  we  looked  up  into  the  blue  above  we  could  see 
them  against  the  sky,  now  toiling  upward,  now  resting 
and  looking  back  upon  us  in  our  labor.  Three  hours  and 
a half  passed  and  still  we  were  nerving  ourselves  to  pro- 
longed effort,  for  we  could  yet  see  no  end  to  our  Jacob’s 
ladder.  Our  guides  encouraged  us  by  saying  that  another 
hour  would  bring  us  to  the  top. 

We  toiled  on,  when  suddenly  one  of  our  men  shouted 
out  as  well  as  he  could  in  the  thin  air,  “Ya  llegaron  ellos!” 
“They’ve  gotten  up !”  Looking  up  we  could  see  nothing  of 
our  companions  till  at  length  their  heads  appeared  above 
the  brink,  and  they  saluted  us  with  the  cheery  shout  of 
triumph. 

We  hastened  on  as  strength  and  breath  would  permit, 
and  in  a few  minutes  stood  with  them  upon  the  edge  of 
the  crater,  looking  into  its  Plutonian  depths,  beholding 
the  beautiful  many  colored  strata  of  rocks,  red  and  gray 
and  white  and  bluish,  which  circled  the  abyss,  pointing 
out  to  each  other  the  hissing,  wreathing  vapors  which 
rushed  here  and  there  from  the  fissures  of  the  sides,  de- 
positing yellow  sulphur  on  the  rocks  and  volcanic  ash, 
listening  intent  to  the  mighty  echoes  awakened  as  de- 
tached rocks  tumbled  from  the  heights  into  the  mouth  of 
hell,  and  rousing  old  Pluto’s  wrath  by  firing  a revolver 
into  his  palace  door. 

The  scene  was  more  inspiring  than  I can  tell ! One 
moment’s  gaze  repaid  a thousand  times  the  night’s  toil 
and  discomfort,  and  impressed  upon  our  minds  a picture 
never  to  be  forgotten. 


196 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


After  a light  lunch  from  our  basket  of  provisions  and 
a brief  rest,  during  which  we  took  in  as  well  as  we  might, 
the  sublime  scene  spread  all  about  us,  we  prepared  for 
the  descent.  When  the  snow  is  fresh  and  the  surface  un- 
frozen, the  descent  is  made  by  each  traveler  sitting  on  a 
reed  mat  behind  his  guide,  who  uses  his  alpenstock  as  a 
brake,  and  away  they  go  coasting  down  the  mighty  slope 
with  the  rapidity  of  thought,  getting  over  in  ten  minutes 
a distance  which  it  required  four  or  five  hours  to  climb. 

The  snow  was  too  hard  and  the  surface  too  rough  for 
us  to  make  this  quick  descent.  So  we  struck  off  diago- 
nally across  the  incline  which  we  had  ascended,  jumping 
and  slipping  from  one  foothold  to  another  on  the  icy 
slope  till  we  reached  a ridge  of  the  southeasterly  aspect  of 
the  mountain  where  the  snow  was  melted  off  nearly  to 
the  summit.  This  ridge  was  of  loose  sand,  scoriae,  and 
volcanic  ash  into  which  we  sunk  deep  at  every  step.  The 
angle  of  inclination  was  about  the  same  as  the  slope  we 
had  climbed. 

We  started  down  in  a succession  of  long  strides  or 
jumps,  sliding  down-  with  the  sand  at  each  impulse  al- 
most as  far  again  as  we  could  step,  yet  in  no  danger  of 
losing  entire  control  of  our  movements.  The  ease  of  mo- 
tion, the  steepness  of  the  incline,  the  exhilaration  of  the 
scene  and  the  growing  ease  of  respiration,  led  to  such  a 
rapid  acceleration  of  movement  that  we  were  soon  going 
at  a speed  which  might  rival  that  of  the  hero  of  the  seven 
league  boots,  and  in  an  almost  incredibly  short  space  of 
time,  we  reached  the  easier  slopes  of  sand  which  spread 
out  at  the  base  of  the  lofty  cone  of  the  volcano. 

Bishop  Warren  and  Mr.  Iliff  were  in  advance  and  had 
gotten  out  of  sight,  while  I in  turn  had  left  Brother 
Barker  far  behind.  Shortly  after  passing  near  the  rocks 
in  the  lee  of  which  we  had  dismounted  in  the  morning,  I 
came  upon  Mr.  Iliff  sitting  in  the  sand  waiting  for  succor. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


197 


His  feet  had  been  slightly  frosted  in  the  early  morning 
before  he  was  aware  of  it,  and  had  become  so  painful  that 
he  could  now  walk  no  further.  Bishop  Warren  had  gone 
on  without  being  aware  of  the  pain  he  was  suffering  and 
was  now  out  of  sight. 

After  a moment’s  delay  I hastened  on  and  ran  some 
little  distance  before  sitting  down  to  rest,  every  nerve 
and  muscle  in  my  legs  quivering  with  the  overstrain  of 
the  exertion  of  the  morning.  I had  not  been  there  long 
when  I saw  our  master  of  horse  coming  over  a ridge  in 
the  distance  and  toiling  up  through  the  sand  to  meet  us, 
bringing  the  horses.  From  the  ranch  he  had  seen  us  when 
we  began  our  descent,  and  had  at  once  saddled  our  steeds. 
Bishop  Warren  had  met  him,  taken  his  horse  and  gone  on 
to  the  ranch. 

I hastened  to  intercept  the  horses,  took  my  own  and 
was  about  to  send  on  the  other  two  for  my  remaining 
companions,  when  looking  back  I saw  Brother  Barker 
in  the  distance,  leaning  on  some  rocks  for  rest.  I signaled 
him  to  come  on,  and  kept  his  horse  while  I sent  on  the 
remaining  animal  for  Mr.  Iliff.  Brother  Barker  came 
rushing  down  the  sands,  almost  turning  somersaults  in 
his  haste.  We  mounted  and  hurried  on  as  best  we  might 
to  the  ranch. 

Before  the  noon  hour  had  passed,  we  were  all  together 
again  in  the  place  of  our  night’s  lodging,  having  made, 
so  our  guides  assured  us,  an  unusually  rapid  and  suc- 
cessful ascent  and  descent  of  the  monarch  of  North 
American  mountains.  It  was  cold  and  we  stirred  up  the 
embers  of  our  night’s  fire  and  soon  had  a cheerful  blaze. 
In  rest,  sleep,  lunch,  and  making  up  our  baggage  to  be 
loaded  on  the  pack  mule,  we  passed  two  or  three  hours, 
after  which  we  took  horse  and  set  out  on  our  return  to 
Ameca  Meca. 

We  were  four  hours  on  the  road,  and  I must  confess 


198 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


for  myself  that  they  were  the  longest  four  hours  I ever 
passed  in  the  saddle.  When  at  last  we  rode  into  the 
courtyard  of  Don  Silvestre’s  house  and  dismounted,  I 
found  that  for  a moment  my  limbs  refused  to  do  their 
duty  in  supporting  my  body,  and  I had  to  shake  and  rub 
them  into  sensitiveness  and  good  circulation  before  I could 
get  into  the  house. 

This  soon  passed,  and  supper  and  a good  night’s  rest 
made  Richard  himself  again.  We  took  train  early,  and 
at  half  past  ten  next  morning  were  at  home  again  with 
laurels  of  victory  upon  us. 

This  letter,  begun  February  24,  closes  ibis  13th  day  of 
March.  Meanwhile  I have  been  called  to  Puebla  to  ad- 
just certain  difficulties  which  arose  there  unexpectedly. 
Spent  last  Sunday,  Monday,  and  Tuesday  in  Arroyo 
Zarco,  where  I preached  twice  and  assisted  in  the  opening 
of  a school  under  very  favorable  auspices.  Ada  and  Lou 
went  with  me,  and  we  were  right  hospitably  entertained. 

Since  I began  this  letter  the  Central  Railroad  has  been 
finished,  and  next  week  a through  train  will  leave  here 
for  Chicago  to  arrive  in  five  days. 

Brother  Butler  and  wife  leave  here  next  Saturday  for 
home.  Mrs.  Barker's  health  is  such  that  Brother  Barker 
finds  it  necessary  to  resign  and  return  to  his  Conference. 

Brother  L.  C.  Smith  and  wife,  newly  appointed  to 
Mexico,  are  here  and  have  gone  to  Pachuca  to  take  up 
Brother  Barker’s  work.  You  see  what  a succession  of 
surprises  and  changes,  trials,  and  difficulties  we  are  pass- 
ing through. 

I have  been  getting  a good  deal  of  work  off  hands,  and 
am  not  quite  so  hard  pressed  as  while  Bishop  Warren  was 
here,  but  I am  still  very  busy  and  an  apparently  endless 
succession  of  perplexities  has  come  along  in  connection 
with  the  beginning  of  this  year’s  work.  I sometimes  find 
faith  and  patience  sorely  tried. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


199 


Just  now  I am  likely  to  lxave  to  press  a long  lawsuit 
in  the  federal  courts,  in  resistance  to  an  arbitrary  and  un- 
just proceeding  of  the  tax  collectors  against  our  prop- 
erty here  in  Mexico  City.  Such  business  is  exceedingly 
distasteful  to  me,  and  the  anxiety  arising  out  of  the  fact 
that  the  affair  involves  hundreds  of  dollars  of  the  So- 
ciety’s money  is  very  wearing.  I am  grateful  that  we 
are  both  in  good  health.  . . . 


(From  my  letter  home) 

February  15. 

C.  went  with  the  bishop  and  his  family  to  Queretaro 
last  week.  Mrs.  Warren  and  the  young  people  came  back 
the  next  day,  but  C.  and  the  bishop  went  on  to  Leon  and 
Guanajuato  and  did  not  come  home  till  Monday  night. 
The  next  day  we  all  went  out  to  a small  Indian  town, 
twenty  or  thirty  miles  from  here  to  lay  the  corner  stone 
of  a little  church  they  are  building  there. 

We  started  at  half  past  six  and  went  out  about  twenty 
miles  on  the  train.  At  the  station  we  were  met  by  a dele- 
gation of  the  brethren  from  the  town  to  which  we  were 
going  and  from  another  one  near  there.  There  were 
eighteen  or  twenty  horses  and  mules,  and  about  half  as 
many  Indians.  We  selected  the  best  horse  for  the  bishop, 
and  the  most  gentle  one  which  happened  to  be  a mule, 
for  Mrs.  Warren.  One  of  the  young  ladies  started  off  on 
a motherly  old  steed  with  a small  colt  following,  the 
other  on  a large  overgrown  horse  of  uncertain  age.  C. 
chose  a small  lively  one,  that  the  Indians  rather  objected 
to  his  mounting  for  fear,  as  they  said,  he  would  crush  it. 
The  rest  of  us  took  what  were  left.  We  were  a remarkable 
looking  party ! 

It  was  only  two  or  three  miles  to  the  town,  but  we  had 
to  go  slowly  and  were  some  time  on  the  way.  When  we 


200 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


arrived  we  found  all  the  principal  women  of  the  congre- 
gation waiting  to  welcome  us,  the  cleanest,  best  looking 
Indian  women  we  have  ever  seen.  They  had  chocolate 
ready  for  us,  and  after  taking  that,  we  mounted  our 
horses  and  mules  again  and  started  up  the  mountain  to 
see  a large  stone  idol  that  was  found  there  several  years 
ago,  and  has  attracted  considerable  attention  among  peo- 
ple interested  in  antiquities,  as  it  is  believed  to  be  very 
old.  It  was  about  four  miles  from  the  village,  and  part 
of  the  road  was  extremely  rough,  but  we  reached  there 
safely,  saw  the  idol,  a hideous  stone  image,  and  climbed 
about  a while  gathering  wild  flowers  which  grew  thick  on 
the  slope  of  the  mountain. 

We  got  back  to  the  town  about  noon  and,  after  dinner, 
held  the  services  preparatory  to  laying  the  corner  stone. 
The  little  room  where  they  have  been  holding  their  serv- 
ices was  crowded  and  the  bishop  spoke  for  some  time,  C. 
serving  as  interpreter.  Then  they  proceeded  to  take  up 
a collection,  announcement  being  made  that  the  bishop’s 
wife  had  offered,  if  there  were  ten  persons  who  would 
give  a dollar  apiece,  to  give  another  ten. 

The  members  of  the  congregation  who  could  command 
that  amount,  then  came  forward  and  soon  made  up  the 
ten  dollars,  Mrs.  Warren  giving  the  other  ten.  Then  she 
said  that  if  there  were  twenty  who  would  give  fifty  cents 
apiece,  she  would  give  another  ten  dollars.  It  was  a little 
harder  to  collect  this,  but  some  members  of  our  party 
came  to  the  rescue  and  at  last  the  amount  was  raised. 

Then  those  who  had  only  quarters  and  dimes  and  even 
smaller  amounts  took  up  their  offerings,  and  a few  small 
boys  went  forward  taking  a cent  apiece,  evidently  feeling 
very  important.  Finally  with  a little  more  outside  help, 
they  made  up  the  sum  of  $50.14,  and  then  proceeded  to 
the  laying  of  the  corner  stone. 

The  bishop  conducted  the  ceremony  in  a very  impres- 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


201 


sive  manner  and  the  people  looked  on  with  great  interest 
and  reverence.  They  had  never  seen  anything  of  the  kind 
before.  After  this  we  distributed  some  papers  and  cards 
among  them,  said  our  farewells  and  started  back  to 
Mexico. 

We  have  all  been  saddened  by  the  death  of  a Mexican 
preacher,  who  was  bishop-elect  in  the  Episcopal  Church, 
but  for  reasons  that  I cannot  give  here,  severed  his  con- 
nection with  that  denomination  and  came  to  us,  asking 
for  work  in  our  Mission.  He  was  considered  a most  valu- 
able acquisition,  and  was  sent  to  Queretaro.  The  week 
after  he  reached  there  a message  came,  saying  that  he 
was  alarmingly  ill  and  asking  that  one  of  his  sons  go  to 
him  at  once.  Only  an  hour  after  this  message  was  re- 
ceived, a telegram  came  announcing  his  death. 

He  was  the  first  Protestant  to  die  in  Queretaro,  and 
the  friends  there  were  at  a loss  to  know  how  to  get  the 
remains  to  the  cemetery,  as  there  was  not  a hearse  in  the 
whole  city,  the  custom  there  being  to  carry  the  dead 
either  on  the  shoulders  of  men,  hired  for  the  purpose,  or 
as  pall  bearers  do  in  our  country.  There  were  not  enough 
of  either  who  were  willing  or  who  could  be  trusted,  so 
Mr.  Greenman  hired  an  express  wagon  from  the  American 
Express  Company,  had  it  draped  in  black  as  best  he  could, 
and  in  this  improvised  funeral  car  the  remains  were 
finally  borne  to  their  last  resting  place,  one  of  the  em- 
ployees of  the  company  offering  his  services  as  driver.  . . . 

(To  his  father) 

Mexico  City,  March  22,  1884. 

I write  to-day  that  you  may  have  word  from  us  by  the 
first  through  train  on  the  Mexican  Central  Railroad.  It 
is  2 p.  m.,  March  22;  let  me  know  when  it  reaches  you. 
We  are  much  elated  over  the  finishing  of  the  railroad.  We 
are  going  to  the  station  to  see  this  train  off ! . . . 


202 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


(From  my  letter  home) 

April  18. 

C.  is  just  home  again  after  a week’s  absence  in  the  in- 
terior, but  expects  to  leave  early  to  morrow  for  Puebla. 
Mrs.  Greenman  and  the  children  arrived  in  Queretaro 
from  their  six  months’  absence  last  Wednesday.  They 
came  overland  and  were  five  days  on  the  road  from 
Chicago. 

A new  missionary  arrived  last  week,  Miss  Eleanora  Le 
Huray,  of  Summit,  N.  J.  She  comes  to  take  charge  of 
the  Girls’  Orphanage  here  in  Mexico  City.  She  was 
educated  at  the  Moravian  Seminary  in  Bethlehem,  Pa., 
and  is  a fine  musician. 

She  evidently  has  strong  convictions  as  to  her  call  to 
mission  work  as  she  has  entered  upon  it  with  little  or  no 
encouragement  from  her  family.  They  did  not  fail  her, 
however,  when  it  came  to  the  point  of  her  actually  under- 
taking the  journey,  as  her  father  cabled  C.  to  meet  her  in 
Vera  Cruz. 

There  has  been  considerable  excitement  here  about  a 
law  recently  enacted,  requiring  all  sorts  of  goods  and 
groceries  to  be  stamped.  It  was  to  take  effect  the  first 
of  the  month,  but  the  merchants  and  grocers  refused  to 
comply  with  it,  closed  their  places  of  business  and  for  a 
week  there  was  but  one  grocery  and  one  dry  goods  store 
open  in  the  whole  city.  They  belong  to  the  President,  or 
at  least  he  has  some  interest  in  them. 

It  was  feared  that  this  would  cause  a general  outbreak, 
and  the  government  had  five  or  six  thousand  soldiers 
under  arms  here  in  the  city  ready  for  any  emergency.  At 
last,  however,  a compromise  was  effected  between  the 
merchants  and  the  government,  the  stores  were  opened 
and  business  is  going  on  about  as  usual. 

There  are  now  two  daily  trains  running  on  the  Mexican 
Central  Railroad.  The  president  of  the  road,  Mr.  Nicker- 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


203 


son,  of  Boston,  Mass.,  is  now  on  his  way  here  in  a special 
car,  which  was  sent  on  to  him  from  here;  the  first  car 
through  to  the  Atlantic  Coast,  and  the  longest  straight 
run  ever  made  by  a car  in  the  world,  so  they  say.  It 
probably  is,  as  the  distance  from  here  to  El  Paso  is  over 
twelve  hundred  miles,  from  El  Paso  to  Saint  Louis  thir- 
teen hundred,  and  from  Saint  Louis  to  Boston  about  the 
same,  altogether  four  thousand  miles.  . . . 


Mexico  City,  April  27,  1884. 

My  dear  Mother: 

It  is  Sunday  night ; our  services  have  closed  early  and  I 
have  a little  time  to  write  to  you.  It  is  not  often  I have 
a Sabbath  as  free  from  labor  as  this  has  been.  I was  to 
preach  this  morning  in  English,  but  the  Presbytery  of  the 
Presbyterian  Mission  is  in  session  here  and  one  of  their 
ministers,  Mr.  Wallace,  of  Zacatecas,  took  my  place.  So 
I heard  him  at  10  a.  m.,  Dr.  Fuentes  at  11,  and  a Mexican 
preacher  of  the  Presbyterian  Church  at  night. 

Since  I finished  my  last  letter  to  you,  I have  been  over 
almost  the  whole  of  our  field.  Went  to  Puebla  with  Ada 
and  Lou,  from  there  to  Orizava,  and  on  to  Vera  Cruz  to 
meet  Miss  Le  Huray.  Then  after  three  days  at  home  I 
went  to  Pachuca  and  spent  a Sabbath.  The  following 
Friday  night  I took  the  train  for  Silao,  arriving  there 
Saturday  morning  after  a night  in  a Pullman  sleeper,  a 
new  experience  in  Mexico,  and  quite  a contrast  to  the 
three  days  and  a half  diligencing,  which  used  to  be  re- 
quired to  reach  that  point. 

I spent  Saturday  in  Silao,  going  on  to  Guanajuato  in 
the  evening.  Preached  and  held  Quarterly  Conference 
there,  and  returned  Sunday  afternoon  to  Silao,  to  preach 
and  hold  communion  service. 

Monday  morning,  got  up  at  half  past  two,  and  at  half 


204 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


past  three  Brother  Kemble  and  I were  in  the  saddle  and 
on  our  way  to  Cueramaro,  a distance  of  thirty-five  miles, 
which  we  accomplished  in  six  hours.  The  work  in  Cuera- 
maro is  new.  We  visited  with  several  friends  there;  got 
the  title  to  a piece  of  ground  donated  by  one  Senor  Vene- 
gas for  the  building  of  a church ; held  meeting  in  the  eve- 
ning; organized  a society  of  twelve  probationers;  ap- 
pointed stewards;  made  arrangements  for  fitting  up 
temporarily  a place  for  meetings,  and  got  to  bed  a little 
before  midnight. 

We  were  called  at  four  o’clock  the  next  morning  and  at 
five  were  off  on  our  return  trip  to  Silao,  where  we  arrived 
at  half  past  ten.  The  same  evening  at  seven  I took  the 
train  for  Queretaro,  arriving  there  at  11  o’clock,  just  as 
Mrs.  Greenmail  and  her  children  reached  home.  I 
stayed  in  Queretaro  two  days,  preaching  and  holding 
communion  service,  took  the  train  Thursday  night  for 
Mexico  City,  arriving  Friday  morning. 

The  following  Monday  I started  early  for  Puebla,  where 
we  have  on  hand  the  purchase  of  a house  for  the  W.  F.  M. 
S.  Spent  Monday  and  Tuesday  in  Puebla  and  got  back 
home  Wednesday  night.  I shall  have  to  go  to  Puebla 
again  some  time  this  week,  then  to  Orizaba  and  so  on. 
So  you  see  that  I don’t  have  a very  quiet  life  of  it  and 
appreciate  a Sabbath  of  rest  such  as  this  has  been. 

Now  that  the  railroad  is  finished  we  find  a good  many 
people  coming  to  Mexico,  among  them  some  we  have 
known  and  others  with  whom  we  have  made  pleasant  ac- 
quaintance. Among  the  latter  are  Major  Sisson  and  his 
wife  from  California,  whom  we  met  last  year  at  Dr. 
Fowler's.  A few  days  ago  Mr.  Niedringhaus,  a wealthy 
manufacturer  of  Saint  Louis,  was  here.  He  is  a warm- 
hearted Methodist,  became  much  interested  in  our  work 
and  promised  us  substantial  help. 

We  are  looking  forward  with  interest  to  General  Con- 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


205 


ference,  as  its  action  with  reference  to  our  Mission  is 
likely  to  bring  some  change  in  my  relation  to  the  work, 
in  consequence  of  the  organization  of  an  Annual  Con- 
ference here.  . . . 


Mexico  City,  May  11. 

It  is  two  weeks  since  I wrote  you.  During  that  time 
I have  spent  four  or  five  days  in  Puebla,  where  I have 
bought  a house  for  the  school  of  the  W.  F.  M.  S.,  in  Miss 
Warner’s  care.  Last  Sunday  I [(reached  in  Ixtacaleo. 
This  week  I have  been  at  home. 

There  has  been  much  excitement  here  about  the  banks. 
Week  before  last  there  was  a run  on  the  bank  of  the 
National  Monte  de  Piedad,  a great  loan  establishment, 
which  finally  caused  the  suspension  of  its  operations. 
Many  poor  people  have  suffered  greatly.  I came  nearly 
being  caught  for  f 500  of  Mission  money ; but  greatly  to 
my  surprise  and  joy  I have  received  word  that  the  draft 
was  paid  four  or  five  days  after  the  suspension,  though 
no  resumption  has  taken  place. 

So  far  as  I know,  I am  the  only  person  who  fared  so 
well.  It  seems  to  me  very  providential,  for  though  all  the 
obligations  of  the  bank  will  be  met,  the  settlement  will 
probably  require  two  or  three  years,  and  it  would  have 
been  very  inconvenient  for  me  to  wait  that  long  for  the 
money.  The  credit  of  the  other  banks  was  subjected  to  a 
very  severe  strain,  but  they  all  came  through  trium- 
phantly. 

A large  party  of  Americans  from  Boston,  most  of  them 
directors  or  stockholders  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railroad, 
are  now  here.  There  are  twenty-four  in  the  party,  and 
it  is  said  they  represent  a capital  of  fifty  million  dollars. 
We  have  met  the  president  and  his  wife,  and  also  Messrs. 
Speer  and  Pierce,  prominent  Methodists  of  Boston.  Mr. 
S.  is  father-in-law  of  an  old  friend  of  mine.  He  took  me 


206 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


yesterday  to  the  headquarters  of  the  board  here  and  in- 
troduced me  to  most  of  the  party.  I went  with  them  to 
visit  the  asylum  for  the  blind. 

The  Mexicans  have  been  very  favorably  impressed  with 
these  men  and  have  given  two  banquets  in  their  honor. 
Some  of  the  party  who  have  traveled  very  extensively  in 
Europe,  said  the  floral  decorations  at  these  two  functions 
surpassed  any  they  had  ever  seen. 

I am  expecting  to  go  to  Orizava  the  middle  of  this  week, 
and  a few  days  later  take  a trip  through  the  mountain 
districts  of  Tetela  and  Xochiapulco  in  the  State  of  Pue- 
bla. We  have  some  very  promising  work  there,  which 
much  needs  looking  after.  It  is  a very  rough  country, 
and  I am  anticipating  some  novel  experiences.  . . . 

San  Juan  de  los  Llanos,  May  24. 

I got  off  as  expected,  made  close  connection  in  San 
Marcos  and  reached  here  a little  after  noon.  Medina  and 
a young  man  from  Tetela  were  awaiting  me. 

It  was  very  unfortunate  that  I could  not  get  here  yester- 
day. A meeting  was  appointed  for  to-day  at  noon  in 
Xochiapulco,  and  I have  just  had  a telegram  from  there, 
saying  that  there  were  present  twenty-four  teachers  and 
eight  hundred  children.  We  are  to  have  another  meeting 
there  Monday  and  perhaps  again  on  Saturday. 

We  shall  rest  here  to-night,  and  start  to-morrow  morn- 
ing at  three  o'clock  for  Tetala,  twenty-one  leagues,  a ten 
hours’  ride  on  horseback.  We  shall  hold  service  there 
that  night  and  on  Monday  go  to  Zautla  and  Xochiapulco, 
and  I shall  be  governed  by  circumstances  as  to  the  rest 
of  the  week.  There  are  many  obstacles  to  be  met  and 
overcome  in  this  region. 

This  place  is  right  up  in  a corner  of  the  mountains.  On 
three  sides  of  the  town  the  hills  are  very  close,  and  though 
not  apparently  very  high,  are  evidently  the  advanced 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


207 


sentinels  of  a great  mountain  district.  I want  to  get  a 
thorough  knowledge  of  the  characteristics  of  this  field, 
so  as  to  be  able  properly  to  represent  it  and  secure  pro- 
vision for  its  needs.  This  region  is  not  so  isolated  as  one 
might  suppose,  all  the  hill  towns  being  connected  by  tele- 
graph. 

It  rained  here  early  this  morning,  but  has  cleared  off 
and  is  now  bright  and  cool  and  bracing.  I shall  probably 
get  plenty  of  sun  and  heat  to-morrow,  judging  from  the 
appearance  of  those  who  are  to  be  my  traveling  compan- 
ions and  who  came  over  the  road  yesterday.  . . . 

A further  account  of  this  visit  to  the  mountains  of 
Puebla  is  given  in  an  article  entitled 

HISTORY  REPEATS  ITSELF 
By  Bishop  H.  W.  Warren 

“Then  went  out  unto  him  Jerusalem  and  all  Judea  and 
all  the  region  around  about  Jordan.” 

(Every  one  waiting  for  the  consolation  of  Israel  and 
the  world,  should  read  the  following  extract  from  a letter 
from  Rev.  C.  W.  Drees,  Superintendent  of  our  Mission  in 
Mexico. — Henry  W.  Warren.) 

The  work  among  the  mountains,  known  as  the  Sierra  de 
Puebla,  which  awakened  so  much  interest  in  our  Annual 
Meeting,  continues  very  encouraging.  I have  just  re- 
turned from  a ten  days’  trip  in  that  region,  and  I am 
persuaded  that  nowhere  in  Mexico  can  the  teaching  of  the 
gospel  be  addressed  to  such  large  assemblies  as  we  can 
bring  together  in  those  places. 

On  our  approach  to  Xochiapulco  we  were  met  by  the 
leading  man  of  the  town,  with  twenty-four  school-teachers 
from  surrounding  villages.  In  the  main  street  we  found 
two  lines  of  children  and  youth  stretching  for  about  a 
hundred  and  fifty  yards,  drawn  up  to  receive  us.  As  we 


208 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


passed  on  between  the  lines,  all  fell  into  column  behind 
us,  and  so  we  marched  to  the  sound  of  drum  and  trumpet 
to  the  sehoolhouse. 

There  were  eight  hundred  boys  and  nearly  two  hundred 
girls  in  the  company.  Some  were  the  very  smallest.  Boys 
and  girls  not  more  than  seven  or  eight  years  old  had 
walked  four  or  five  leagues  over  the  hills  and  mountains 
to  be  present  on  this  occasion.  More  than  a thousand 
persons  crowded  into  the  large  schoolroom,  and  about  its 
doors  and  windows.  When  all  was  quiet  the  leader 
started  the  hymn  translated  from  “The  Great  Physician 
Now  is  Near,”  after  which  we  went  on  with  the  service  in 
the  usual  way,  and  I preached  to  the  largest  congregation 
I have  ever  seen  in  Mexico. 

The  Town  Council  offers  us  a fine  site  to  put  up  a place 
of  worship,  with  liberty  to  pull  down  the  only  Romish 
shrine  in  the  place.  Our  friends  will  furnish  a large  part 
if  not  all  of  the  stone  and  lumber,  so  that  for  about  six 
hundred  dollars  we  can  put  up  a plain  meeting  house, 
suitable  to  the  place  and  large  enough  to  accommodate 
the  attendance  we  may  expect  to  have  there.  Xochiapuleo 
exerts  a widely  extended  influence  in  the  Sierra  and  is  one 
of  the  natural  centers  of  the  work. 

In  Zautla  a deserted  Romish  chapel  is  offered  us  if  we 
will  put  it  into  condition  for  holding  services,  at  a cost  of 
about  a hundred  dollars. 

I have  planned  to  make  another  tour  through  these 
mountains  before  the  year  closes,  and  to  send  Brother 
Loza  on  a similiar  visit,  thus  encouraging  and  developing 
the  work  up  to  our  next  Annual  Meeting,  when  I trust  it 
will  be  possible  to  send  at  least  two  good  men  to  live 
among  those  Indians  and  organize  churches,  which  I be- 
lieve will  soon  become  self-supporting  and  self-propagat- 
ing. 

Meanwhile,  I earnestly  pray  that  some  friend  or  friends 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


209 


will  be  induced  to  give  us  at  once  the  means  to  fit  up  the 
Romish  chapel  in  Zautla,  and  build  the  meeting  house  in 
Xochiapulco.  The  work  has  begun  in  a number  of  places 
besides  those  that  I have  mentioned,  and  the  whole  field 
is  a most  promising  one. 

In  June  of  this  year  there  was  a riotous  outbreak  in 
Celaya,  of  which  some  details  are  given  in  a letter  of  mine. 
We  were  to  have  gone  to  Queretaro  last  Wednesday,  but 
on  Tuesday  a telegram  came  from  Mr.  Greenman  saying 
there  had  been  serious  trouble  in  Celaya  and  that  he 
would  be  here  that  night.  C.  went  to  the  station  to  meet 
him  and  brought  him  up  here  to  the  house.  He  was  greatly 
troubled,  and  we  were  no  less  so  when  we  heard  the  de- 
tails of  the  affair. 

A mob  had  attacked  the  house  where  he  and  a Mexican 
preacher  and  his  wife  were  preparing  to  hold  a service. 
They  drove  them  out,  then  followed  them  to  an  adjoining 
house  where  they  had  taken  refuge,  broke  down  the  door, 
and  finally  fired  two  shots  into  the  room  where  they  were. 
Mr.  G.  then  fired  once,  and  the  Mexican  preacher  twice, 
and  it  was  alleged  that  between  them  they  had  killed  one 
man  and  wounded  two  others.  By  this  time  the  troops 
arrived  and  marched  Mr.  G.  and  his  companion  off  to  the 
barracks,  where  they  were  safely  housed  for  the  night,  this 
being  the  only  means  of  protecting  them  from  the  fury 
of  the  mob. 

C.  left  the  next  morning  for  Guanajuato,  the  capital  of 
the  State  in  which  this  occurred,  to  see  the  Governor  and 
to  do  what  can  be  done  in  the  matter.  Mr.  G.  went  with 
him  as  far  as  Queretaro,  to  await  developments.  No 
blame  whatever  is  attached  to  him,  as  it  was  so  evidently 
a case  of  self-defense;  still,  he  may  be  arrested  and  have 
to  stand  a trial.  I am  going  up  to  Queretaro  to-morrow 
to  stay  with  May  until  the  matter  is  settled.  . . . 


210 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


Queretaro,  June  28. 

I had  not  been  here  an  hour,  when  Mr.  Kemble  arrived 
to  say  that  he  and  C.  had  been  in  Celaya  to  see  the  Chief 
of  Police  and  found  that  a warrant  had  already  been 
issued  for  the  arrest  of  Mr.  G.,  the  Mexican  preacher,  and 
his  wife,  and  even  the  portero ; so  it  was  decided  that  it 
would  be  best  for  Mr.  G.  to  go  at  once  to  Mexico  City  and 
put  himself  under  the  protection  of  the  American  Min- 
ister. 

May  and  I were  in  constant  fear  that  they  would  come 
to  arrest  him,  as  there  was  no  train  till  nearly  midnight. 
So,  as  soon  as  it  was  dark,  he  left  the  house  and  went  to 
Mr.  Shamp’s  office  (Wells,  Fargo  Express  Company), 
where  he  waited  till  train  time.  Mr.  K.  went  down  to  the 
station  at  the  last  moment  and  saw  that  he  got  off  in 
safety,  returning  to  reassure  May  and  me  that  all  was 
well  so  far.  . . . 

This  unfortunate  matter  dragged  on  for  many  weeks, 
during  which  consultations  were  held  with  the  American 
Minister,  the  Governor  of  Guanajuato,  and  other  promi- 
nent officials.  At  last,  late  in  September,  the  Secretary  of 
the  Interior  gave  Mr.  D.  a letter  to  the  Governor  asking 
him,  as  a personal  favor,  to  have  the  affair  investigated 
without  requiring  Mr.  G.  to  be  present,  as  he  did  not  con- 
sider that  it  would  be  prudent  for  him  to  return  to  Celaya 
at  that  time. 

In  a letter  of  mine,  written  soon  after  this,  there  is  a 
reference  to  the  trouble  in  Queretaro,  which  shows  the 
delay  in  such  matters:  Mr.  Cordova,  who  shot  into  the 
mob  during  the  riot  in  Queretaro  three  years  ago,  was 
just  here.  The  case  has  been  in  the  courts  ever  since,  and 
last  month  was  finally  decided  against  him.  Sunday  an 
order  was  issued  for  his  arrest  and  imprisonment,  but  he 
heard  of  it  in  time  to  leave  before  it  was  put  into  execu- 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


211 


tion,  and  came  up  here  to  consult  C.  The  lawyer  who  de- 
fended him  advises  him  to  go  to  Texas,  and  this  he  plans 
to  do  in  case  C.  approves.  Indeed,  his  only  safety  seems 
to  be  in  leaving  the  country.  . . . 


Guanajuato,  October  17,  1884. 

I was  very  much  surprised  to  find  Cordova  here  on  my 
arrival  from  Silao,  where  I had  gone  to  spend  Sunday.  Of 
course  it  was  necessary  for  me  to  give  immediate  atten- 
tion to  his  case,  and  a very  perplexing  one  I found  it. 

After  canvassing  the  whole  matter  as  fully  as  I could, 
I decided  to  send  him  to  the  New  Mexico  Mission,  with 
letters  to  Bishop  Foss  and  Superintendent  Harwood.  So 
I started  him  off  on  the  evening  train,  hoping  he  would 
reach  Socorro  in  season  to  meet  the  bishop  before  he  leaves 
there.  Of  course  I had  to  write  a long  letter  of  explana- 
tion to  the  bishop,  and  an  introduction  to  Brother  Har- 
wood. I very  much  hope  he  will  get  employment  in  that 
Mission. 

Last  night  we  had  a large  congregation  at  our  service, 
and  I had  a good  deal  of  “liberty”  in  preaching.  We  had 
an  impressive  communion  service,  and  I closed  up  the 
evening’s  duties  by  holding  Quarterly  Conference. 

Early  the  next  morning  I took  the  stage  for  Marfil  and 
the  train  from  there  to  Silao.  A long  train  was  standing 
at  the  station,  crowded  with  soldiers  brought  through 
from  Mexico  City  in  the  night,  bound  for  Lagos,  and 
thence  to  Guadalajara  and  Tepic,  so  it  is  said.  The  Fifth 
Cavalry  marched  from  Leon  Wednesday  in  the  same  direc- 
tion, and  other  troops  have  left  Guanajuato  for  the  same 
destination.  It  is  reported  here  that  a formidable  revolu- 
tion has  broken  out  in  the  State  of  Jalisco. 

Brother  Gamboa  and  I go  this  evening  to  Irapuato, 
where  we  shall  hold  a meeting  in  a private  house,  and  to- 


212 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


morrow  on  to  Salamanca,  where  we  remain  over  Sun- 
day. . . . 

Early  in  September  of  this  year,  18S1,  my  brother  went 
home  for  a brief  visit,  taking  with  him  my  sister  whom 
we  had  brought  with  us  on  our  return  the  year  before. 
When  he  came  back  a few  weeks  later,  my  sister,  Emma, 
came  with  him  to  spend  a few  months  with  us.  What  these 
visits  of  my  sisters  meant  to  me  personally,  so  far  from 
all  my  family  and  the  friends  of  my  childhood  and  youth, 
and  what  animation  and  merriment  their  youthful  gayety 
and  lightheartedness  brought  into  our  home  life,  can  well 
be  imagined. 

(From  my  letter  home) 

Mexico  City,  September  25,  1884. 

This  year  we  celebrated  the  16th,  Mexico’s  great  na- 
tional holiday,  with  unusual  enthusiasm,  all  the  Protes- 
tant churches  in  the  city  joining  in  the  festivities.  The 
large  audience  room  of  our  church  was  full,  about  a thou- 
sand being  present.  We  had  it  decorated  with  evergreens 
and  flowers  and  flags,  and  it  looked  very  festive. 

I made  a large  banner  for  our  school,  with  a picture  of 
Juarez  on  one  side  and  the  Mexican  colors  on  the  other, 
and  it  was  very  much  admired,  and  was  the  source  of 
great  pride  and  joy  to  the  small  boys  who  had  the  honor 
of  carrying  it.  I also  made  each  of  them  a sash  of  red  and 
white  and  green,  which  added  to  the  effect,  and  with  their 
medals  pinned  on  their  jackets  they  made  quite  a fine 
appearance.  They  were  invited  to  march  in  the  public 
procession,  and  they  and  another  Protestant  school  sang 
the  Mexican  National  Hymn  with  orchestra  accompani- 
ment and  did  very  well  indeed. 

The  entertainment  here  at  the  church  was  at  four 
o’clock.  The  program,  which  consisted  of  short  speeches, 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


213 


recitations,  and  patriotic  songs,  was  two  hours  long.  I 
played  the  piano,  one  boy  the  violin,  another  the  cornet, 
and  we  had  a good  leader,  so  this  part  of  the  program  was 
very  successful ; some  of  the  numbers  being  applauded  so 
enthusiastically  that  they  had  to  be  repeated. 

The  week  after  this,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Butler  returned  from 
their  six  months’  vacation,  bringing  with  them  Miss  Mary 
Loyd,  a new  missionary,  and  C.’s  youngest  brother, 
Ernest.  To  celebrate  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Butler’s  return  we 
had  the  boys  of  the  school,  with  all  their  16th  of  Septem- 
ber trappings — banners,  flags,  etc. — formed  in  line  at  the 
entrance  to  welcome  them. 

In  the  evening  there  was  a reception  for  them,  with 
brief  addresses,  singing,  and  an  original  poem  which  Mr. 
Palacios  had  sat  up  all  night  to  compose  for  the  occasion. 
Miss  Loyd  was  introduced  and  made  a most  favorable  im- 
pression. At  the  close  of  the  exercises  one  of  the  boys 
of  the  school,  in  the  name  of  them  all,  presented  Mr. 
Butler  with  a silk  hat ! . . . 


(To  his  father) 

Mexico  City,  November  17,  1881. 

No  doubt  you  have  seen  alarming  telegrams  from  here 
these  last  few  days.  This  was  the  nearest  approach  to  a 
revolution  we  have  had  for  seven  years.  It  was  over  a 
bill  passed  by  Congress  to  which  the  people  were  greatly 
opposed.  They  made  such  violent  demonstrations  of  their 
opposition  that  it  was  found  necessary  to  repeal  it  or  to 
postpone  any  further  action  in  the  matter  for  the  present. 

For  several  days  the  streets  near  the  Hall  of  Congress 
were  crowded  with  people,  and  the  whole  city  was  full  of 
troops.  At  times  the  disorder  and  excitement  became 
such  that  the  soldiers  were  ordered  to  fire  on  the  crowd, 
and  many  were  killed  and  wounded. 


214 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


As  soon  as  the  matter  was  adjusted  everything  became 
as  quiet  as  usual  save  for  the  general  rejoicing.  All  over 
the  city  there  were  illuminations,  fireworks,  and  bands 
of  music  at  night,  and  yesterday  the  students  of  the  prin- 
cipal schools  marched  through  the  streets  in  procession 
with  bands  of  music,  flags,  and  banners  to  celebrate  their 
victory. 

Two  weeks  hence  General  Diaz  will  come  into  power, 
and  there  is  a widespread  expectation  that  things  will 
improve.  . . . 

December  1. 

This  is  Inauguration  Day,  and  Diaz  is  now  President! 
The  usual  ceremonies  of  the  occasion  were  celebrated  this 
morning  at  nine  o’clock.  To-night  there  will  be  fireworks 
and  a general  jubilee. 

We  are  now  nearing  the  close  of  the  year,  and  are  al- 
ready looking  forward  to  the  arrival  of  the  bishop  who 
is  to  inaugurate  our  Annual  Conference  organization, 
thus  ending  my  relation  to  the  work  under  the  title  of 
superintendent.  Bishop  Merrill  has  written  me  that  he 
desires  me  to  serve  a term  as  presiding  elder.  What  ar- 
rangements may  be  made  by  the  coming  bishop,  I cannot, 
of  course,  foresee  with  any  certainty. 


CHAPTER  XII 


(From  my  letter  home) 

Mexico  City,  January  6,  1885. 

Bishop  Harris  and  Mr.  Phillips,  of  New  York,  treasurer 
of  the  Missionary  Society,  reached  here  New  Year’s  morn- 
ing, two  weeks  sooner  than  we  had  expected  them.  They 
were  here  only  two  days,  when  they  went  with  C.  to  visit 
the  work  in  Queretaro,  Guanajuato,  and  Leon,  returning 
here  yesterday  morning.  They  spent  the  day  and  night 
here  and  left  this  morning  for  Orizava.  From  there  they 
go  to  Puebla  and  Pachuca,  and  expect  to  be  home  again 
Monday  night. 

Thursday,  Conference  begins,  and  as  soon  as  that  is 
over  they  will  leave  for  New  York.  They  will  have  had  a 
very  busy  and  hurried  visit,  but  they  have  been  much 
pleased  with  what  they  have  seen  of  the  work.  Bishop 
Harris  says  there  has  been  great  improvement  in  all  the 
departments  of  the  work  since  he  was  here  five  years  ago. 

I have  scarcely  seen  C.  the  last  month.  He  has  been 
away  from  home  almost  constantly,  and  so  busy  when  he 
was  here  that  he  has  had  to  work  till  midnight  or  later. 
He  reached  home  from  a very  hard  trip  among  the  Puebla 
mountains  just  the  night  before  Christmas,  which  we  cele- 
brated this  year  with  unusual  animation,  having  with 
us  my  sister  and  brother,  Ernest,  Mary  Loyd,  and  Miss 
Le  Huray.  We  had  the  parlor  decorated  with  wreaths 
and  garlands  and  festoons  of  evergreens,  and  it  seemed 
very  like  a home  Christmas. 

We  all  had  very  nice  presents,  too,  among  them  a very 
large  box  of  American  apples  and  a basket  of  luscious 

215 


216 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


pears.  It  was  a bright  warm  day  and  in  the  afternoon 
C.  and  I went  for  a horseback  ride  into  the  country.  It 
was  most  enjoyable,  and  the  whole  day  was  a very  happy 
one  for  us  all.  . . . 

The  9th  of  December,  1884,  a cowardly  attack  was  made 
upon  Sr.  Gamboa,  one  of  our  most  useful  and  promising 
Mexican  preachers. 

The  Rev.  Duston  Kemble,  who  was  then  in  charge  of 
the  district  in  which  it  occurred,  gives  this  account  of  the 
tragedy : 

Mr.  Gamboa,  pastor  of  our  Mission  in  Guanajuato,  desired  to 
make  a visit  to  our  little  band  of  followers  in  the  village  of 
Cueramaro,  about  thirty-five  miles  southwest  of  Silao,  in  a region 
infested  by  lawless  characters  from  whom  I myself  had  several 
narrow  escapes.  He  started  at  an  early  hour,  riding  my  dapple 
gray  horse,  and  accompanied  by  my  usual  traveling  companion, 
Sr.  Donaciano  Saldana,  a former  soldier  of  the  rurales,  and 
familiar  with  the  road.  Scarcely  a mile  out  of  Silao  they  were 
met  by  three  mounted  men,  evidently  waiting  for  them,  half 
concealed  by  the  darkness.  As  they  were  about  to  pass,  the 
leader  of  the  bandits  shouted,  “ Halt  there!”  and  as  Saldana 
instinctively  reached  for  his  gun,  he  shouted  a second  time, 
“Drop  him!'  at  which  their  three  old-fashioned  horse  pistols  rang 
out  together,  and  the  brave  soldier  leaped  from  his  saddle  pierced 
by  a ball  through  the  heart.  Mr.  Gamboa,  unhurt,  tried  to  spur 
his  horse,  but,  unknown  to  him,  the  splendid  animal  was  shot 
through  the  neck  as  he  reared  at  the  first  alarm,  and  became 
almost  unmanageable.  One  of  the  robbers  followed  and  fired 
three  times,  the  last  shot  passing  through  the  preacher’s  body 
just  below  the  heart.  After  a brief  examination  of  both  men, 
the  murderers  fled  with  the  arms  and  saddles,  remarking  that  it 
was  too  bad  they  had  hit  the  horse.  Mr.  Gamboa  lay  on  the 
ground  until  long  after  daylight,  and  nearly  bled  to  death  before 
the  passersby  had  notified  the  authorities,  who  finally  came  out 
and  brought  both  men  into  town.  No  little  sympathy  was 
expressed  by  the  people  of  Silao;  and  the  preacher’s  wife  heroic- 
ally assisted  Dr.  Alvarez  and  myself  in  nursing  him  back  to  life, 
with  so  much  success  that  six  weeks  later  he  was  able  to  attend 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


217 


Conference  in  Mexico  City.  The  leader  of  the  robbers  was  after- 
ward shot  by  the  mounted  police  in  the  streets  of  Silao. 

(From  my  letter  home) 

January  30. 

Conference  is  over,  and  the  bishop  and  Mr.  Phillips  have 
just  gone  to  the  train.  Our  Mission  is  now  an  Annual 
Conference,  composed  of  one  district,  of  which  C.  is  pre- 
siding elder.  He  also  continues  as  treasurer  of  the  Mis- 
sion, and  was  again  elected  editor  of  our  church  paper, 
El  Abogado. 

We  had  a most  pleasant  and  harmonious  session,  and 
though  two  or  three  brethren  who  had  hoped  for  certain 
things  were  disappointed,  they  bore  their  disappointment 
with  good  grace  and  seemed  inclined  to  make  the  best  of 
the  situation.  The  Conference  in  a body  sat  for  their  pic- 
tures one  day,  and  they  are  quite  good  for  so  large  a 
group,  and  a nice  looking  lot  of  people,  all  things  con- 
sidered. 

Mr.  Phillips  came  to  Mexico  feeling  rather  troubled 
about  some  things,  but  after  he  had  investigated  matters 
and  saw  how  they  really  were,  he  was  quite  relieved.  In 
a brief  address  he  made  one  day  to  the  Conference,  he 
said  he  was  very  glad  he  had  come,  that  he  had  found 
the  Mission  much  larger  and  more  prosperous  than  he 
had  expected,  and  that  he  had  been  greatly  pleased  with 
his  whole  visit. 

We  had  a letter  from  Galdino  last  week,  written  while 
at  home  for  the  holidays.  He  said  among  other  things 
that  he  found  you  kind  and  affectionate  as  usual,  always 
thinking  more  of  other  people's  comfort  and  happiness 
than  your  own ; that  father  was  quiet  and  “pensive”  and 
generally  absorbed  in  business  matters,  but  that  there 
was  something  in  his  face  that  inspired  him  with  con- 
fidence and  made  him  like  to  be  near  him,  and  there  to 


218 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


meditate  on  his  own  future,  and  all  that  he  hopes  to  do 
and  to  be,  when  he  has  finished  his  college  course.  He 
said  that  before  the  holidays,  when  all  the  other  boys 
were  talking  of  home,  it  was  a great  comfort  to  him  to 
feel  that  there  was  a place  that  was  home  to  him,  even  in 
a foreign  country,  and  far  from  all  his  own  family  and 
childhood  friends.  . . . 

Early  in  February  we  received  news  of  the  sudden  death 
of  my  youngest  sister,  nineteen  years  of  age,  who  had 
spent  the  previous  year  with  us.  She  had  gone  home 
only  four  months  before,  full  of  life,  and  the  picture  of 
health,  so  that  we  were  totally  unprepared  for  such  a 
message,  and  it  caused  us  all  inexpressible  sorrow. 

The  latter  part  of  the  same  month,  a telegram  came, 
announcing  the  death  in  Queretaro,  of  one  of  our  Mexican 
preachers,  from  whom  Mr.  Drees  had  received  a letter 
only  two  days  before.  His  brother  wrote  that  he  had 
preached  with  unusual  enthusiasm  and  feeling,  so  much 
so  that  a crowd  of  roughs  just  outside  the  church,  who 
were  disturbing  the  congregation  by  loud  laughing  and 
talking,  finally  became  quiet  and  attentive. 

Just  as  he  was  finishing  his  sermon  he  raised  his  eyes 
as  if  in  prayer,  his  voice  failed,  and  he  fell  dead  in  the 
pulpit.  They  sent  for  physicians,  but  he  was  past  all 
help.  It  was  thought  at  first  that  death  was  caused  by 
congestion  of  the  brain,  but  a post  mortem  examination 
was  held  and  they  found,  so  they  said  in  Spanish,  that 
his  heart  was  broken. 


(To  his  father) 

Mexico  City,  March  29,  1885. 

I have  for  many  days  been  hoping  to  get  a letter  written 
but  have  been  so  pressed  above  measure  by  duties  that 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


219 


could  not  be  postponed,  that  I have  been  hindered.  The 
last  six  months  have,  I think,  been  the  busiest  of  my  life. 
The  change  of  my  nominal  relation  to  the  work  has  made 
very  little  change  in  the  nature  of  my  duties.  In  addition 
to  my  former  work,  the  editorial  charge  of  our  monthly 
paper  has  been  laid  upon  me  and  requires  a great  deal  of 
attention. 

I have  reason  to  be  thankful  for  robust  health,  which 
enables  me  to  keep  up  in  some  degree  with  the  demands  of 
my  position^  though  sometimes  I find  things  accumulating 
in  a very  discouraging  way. 

Our  work  generally  is  in  a more  prosperous  condition 
than  it  has  ever  been  before.  There  is  deeper  religious 
interest,  congregations  are  growing,  membership  is  in- 
creasing, and  fields  white  unto  the  harvest  are  opening  be- 
fore us.  This  is  true  notwithstanding  the  manifest  re- 
vival of  devotion  to  Romanism,  noticeable  in  certain 
quarters.  We  are  looking  with  faith  for  still  greater 
prosperity. 

Ernest  is  very  happy  at  the  thought  of  going  home  the 
first  of  May.  He  has  given  very  good  satisfaction  in  his 
work  in  the  railroad  office.  Not  only  has  there  been  no 
complaint,  but  Mr.  Webb,  the  auditor,  has  spoken  very 
well  of  him  and  given  him  a very  good  testimonial.  His 
immediate  superior  also  speaks  highly  of  him.  We  shall 
all  miss  him. 

I have  just  finished  my  first  quarterly  round,  and  for 
the  last  six  weeks  have  spent  only  one  Sunday  at 
home.  . . . 


(To  his  mother) 

Mexico  City,  June  11. 

I got  home  Monday  evening  from  a two  weeks’  trip  of 
over  GOO  miles,  in  which  I made  less  than  half  the  round 
of  my  district.  1 rode  nearly  a hundred  miles  on  horse- 


220 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


back,  and  came  back  very  much  burned  by  the  sun,  most 
of  the  skin  peeling  off  my  face. 

I found  the  work  in  good  condition,  and  there  are  many 
interesting  features  I would  like  to  write  about  if  time 
would  permit.  I visited  for  the  first  time  a large  farm, 
whose  owner  has  declared  himself  on  our  side,  and  brings 
all  his  laborers  into  his  own  house  to  the  services.  He 
offers  us  175  acres  of  land,  if  we  will  establish  an  indus- 
trial school  on  it.  We  have  so  many  other  enterprises  on 
foot  that  I fear  it  will  be  some  time  before  we  can  com- 
pass this. 

Mrs.  Bishop  Warren  has  given  us  eight  cabinet  organs 
for  different  places,  among  them  one  for  Acayuca,  a town 
I visited  last  week.  This  organ  had  reached  the  nearest 
railroad  station,  about  ten  miles  away.  They  were  dis- 
cussing the  best  way  to  bring  it  over,  and  the  brethren 
seemed  to  find  some  difficulty  in  fixing  the  matter  up, 
when  one  of  the  sisters,  a woman  fifty  years  old,  said : 
“Well,  if  the  brethren  can’t  get  it  here,  we  women  will  go 
over  and  bring  it  ourselves.”  (It  had  to  be  carried  on 
men’s  shoulders.) 

That  sister  has  been  treasurer  of  the  committee  to  raise 
money  to  pay  the  duties  and  freight.  Chiefly  by  her  ex- 
ertions about  $50  have  been  collected,  and  yet  the  people 
there  are  poor,  in  a sense  and  to  a degree  of  which  you 
can  scarcly  have  any  conception. 

On  Sunday  I preached  three  times,  held  two  communion 
services,  baptized  six  children,  and  held  a Quarterly  Con- 
ference. . . . 


Chignahuapan,  August  30,  1885. 

I reached  Apizaco  in  due  time  yesterday  afternoon,  and 
spent  the  rest  of  the  day  in  the  school,  examining  various 
classes.  Had  supper  and  stayed  all  night  with  the  Bernals 
in  the  Mission  house.  Rose  at  five  o’clock  and  got  off  on 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


221 


the  diligence  at  six.  I was  the  only  passenger,  and  got 
well  bounced  and  shaken  up.  Believe  I should  prefer  to 
make  the  trip  on  horseback. 

Preached  here  at  half  past  two,  took  a room  in  the 
“meson,”  and  had  dinner  at  a little  “fonda”— quite  satis- 
factory—for  eighteen  cents.  Soon  afterward  Medina  ar- 
rived from  Tetela  with  a horse  for  me.  We  took  a little 
walk  through  the  town,  and  now  I am  writing  this  on  the 
counter  of  the  store  where  I bought  this  stationery. 

To  morrow  morning  will,  I hope,  find  us  at  sunrise  well 
on  our  way  to  Tetela.  Perhaps  we  shall  salute  the  rising 
sun  from  the  top  of  the  mountain  ridge.  We  shall  prob- 
ably turn  aside  a little  from  our  road  to  go  through  the 
Canada  to  see  George  Schley.  We  ought  to  reach  Tetela 
about  noon. 

Medina  sent  over  to  Fernandez  at  Xochiapulco  for  the 
two  horses,  so  I shall  have  the  same  beast  all  the  way,  and 
as  I shall  not  have  to  return  the  horses  this  way,  I shall 
likely  go  from  Xochiapulco  to  San  Juan  de  los  Llanos, 
trying  to  reach  there  by  noon  on  Monday,  so  as  to  get 
home  the  same  night. 

This  village  of  Chignahuapan  is  a regular  mountain 
town,  very  “trist,”  and  has  the  reputation  of  being  very 
fanatical.  Medina  says  he  narrowly  escaped  being 
mobbed  here  a feiv  weeks  ago.  . . . 


(To  his  father  and  mother) 

Mexico  City,  September  13,  1885. 

This  is  my  birthday  and  our  wedding  anniversary.  It 
is  eight  years  to-day  since  we  were  married.  I arranged 
my  work  so  as  to  get  home  yesterday  evening.  We  had 
a few  intimate  friends  to  dinner  with  us. 

I have  been  away  from  home  most  of  the  time  for  two 
weeks.  The  second  of  September  I set  out  for  the  Sierra 


222 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


of  the  State  of  Puebla.  Went  by  rail  to  Apizaco,  where 
I stayed  over  night,  and  the  next  day  by  stage  to  Chigna- 
huapan,  about  thirty-five  miles.  Friday  went  on  horse- 
back to  Tetela,  twenty-two  miles  distant,  one  of  our  Mexi- 
can preachers  accompanying  me. 

The  road  was  very  mountainous,  leading  over  a high 
ridge  and  through  very  fine  scenery.  We  were  in  the 
saddle  six  hours  and  reached  our  destination  about  noon. 
In  the  afternoon  I called  on  a gentleman,  son  of  the  late 
Governor  of  Puebla.  He  has  just  returned  from  a three 
months’  journey  in  the  United  States,  and  was  very  enthu- 
siastic over  what  he  saw  and  the  attentions  he  received. 

He  is  a sincere  friend  of  our  cause  and  repeated  the 
assurance  of  his  sympathy  and  help.  He  and  his  family 
are  very  influential  all  through  the  Sierra,  which  is  popu- 
lated entirely  by  Indians,  most  of  whom  know  very  little 
of  the  Spanish  language. 

We  also  went  up  a very  narrow  mountain  gulch  to  see 
an  American  family  who  had  lately  moved  there,  the  only 
such  family  in  all  the  region.  Mx*.  Schley  is  a mining 
engineer,  and  is  putting  up  reduction  works  to  extract 
gold  and  silver  from  the  ores  which  are  available  in  the 
mines  of  the  district.  We  were  cordially  received  and  had 
a pleasant  visit. 

We  rode  back  in  the  twilight  and  early  darkness  in 
time  to  hold  meeting.  I preached  again  fi*om  the  words : 
“These  that  have  turned  the  world  upside  down  are  come 
hither  also,”  taking  occasion  to  explain  the  true  nature 
of  Protestantism  as  simply  a return  to  evangelical  and 
apostolic  Chi’istianity.  The  people  were  very  attentive 
and  seemed  to  hear  the  word  with  gladness. 

At  8 o'clock  Saturday  morning.  Brother  Medina  and  I 
were  again  in  the  saddle,  bound  for  Xochiapulco,  seven 
leagues  distant.  Our  road  led  us  over  two  high  summits, 
with  a deep  valley  between  them,  then  down  a steep  rocky 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


223 


ravine  across  a rapid  river,  up  a third  mountain,  then 
down  thousands  of  feet  into  a gorge  and  up  the  opposite 
side  to  the  hill  top  on  which  Xochiapulco  is  situated. 

The  road  is  so  steep  and  in  places  so  rough,  that  the 
horses  must  stop  to  take  breath  every  few  minutes,  and 
if  the  horseman  wishes  to  make  speed  or  has  a tender 
regard  for  his  own  neck,  he  must  at  times  dismount  and 
climb  afoot,  dragging  his  beast  of  burden  after  him. 

We  reached  Xochiapulco  about  two  o’clock,  and  after 
a hasty  meal,  went  at  once  to  the  schoolliouse,  where  the 
congregation  was  already  assembled.  It  consisted  of  some 
two  hundred  boys  and  girls  of  ages  ranging  from  five  to 
eighteen  years,  with  a few  older  people.  This  was  the 
third  time  I had  visited  them,  and  I found  with  pleasure 
that  I have  a great  many  friends  among  the  throng  of  red- 
skinned  youngsters.  During  my  previous  visit,  eight 
months  before,  I had  given  them  a motto  and  charged 
them  to  remember  it.  When  I asked  them  to  repeat  it,  a 
whole  chorus  of  voices  sung  it  out  with  a will.  So  I 
preached  specially  to  them. 

The  next  day,  accompanied  by  Brother  Fernandez,  who 
is  doing  the  work  of  an  evangelist  in  all  that  region,  I 
rode  five  leagues  to  Mazapa,  where  we  spent  the  night. 
Monday  we  were  off  before  six,  without  any  breakfast, 
and  rode  twenty -five  miles  to  San  Juan  de  los  Llanos.  I 
reached  there  in  time  to  get  something  to  eat  and  take 
the  train  for  San  Marcos,  where  I changed  cars  for  Mexico 
City,  reaching  home  at  nine  o’clock  that  night. 

I should  have  to  write  many  pages  to  give  you  anything 
like  a complete  account  of  the  incidents  and  impressions  of 
such  a trip.  The  whole  region,  of  which  I traversed  only 
a small  part,  is  ripe  for  the  gospel.  We  have  influential 
friends  there,  who  open  the  way  for  us.  The  poor  people 
are  as  sheep  having  no  shepherd,  utterly  neeglected  by  the 
priests*  and  extremely  ignorant  of  all  religious  truth. 


224 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


But  they  are  industrious,  peaceable,  and  docile,  very  ready 
to  hear  and  obey  the  truth. 

Here  is  a partial  list  of  the  places  Brother  Fernandez 
visits  every  two  weeks  or  oftener.  You  will  see  how 
thoroughly  Indian  the  names  are:  Ixtaltenango.  Tenam- 
pulco,  Yxihnaeo,  Yautetelco,  Tecuicuilco,  Xacumulco,  etc. 

These  villages  comprise  a population  of  about  12,000 
souls.  In  each  place  the  schoolhouse  is  held  at  our  dis- 
posal for  services,  and  in  all  the  schools,  with  a thousand 
pupils  in  attendance,  the  New  Testament  is  read  and  our 
Gospel  Hymns  are  sung;  yet  this  district  is  but  a small 
part  of  a region  which  is  now  accessible  to  us,  and  in 
which  no  other  church  is  laboring. 

We  are  looking  forward  to  the  new  year,  hoping  that 
the  General  Missionary  Committee  will  be  able  to  make 
larger  provision  for  our  work. 


September  19. 

I began  this  letter  on  the  13th,  but  was  not  able  to  finish 
it.  Wednesday  was  Independence  Day,  and  I went  to 
Pachuca  to  be  present  at  the  reception,  a Cornish,  Eng- 
lish, Wesleyan  Tea  Meeting,  given  to  Brother  Salmans  and 
his  wife,  who  have  just  arrived  under  appointment  to  the 
English  work  in  Pachuca  and  Mineral  del  Monte. 

I came  home  Thursday  and  have  been  very  busy  getting 
material  together  for  the  October  number  of  the  Abogado, 
our  Advocate.  . . . 


(To  his  mother) 

Orizaba,  November  29,  1885. 

I have  had  to  keep  in  constant  motion  this  month.  First 
to  go  to  Zacatecas  to  confer  with  a priest  who  is  on  the 
point  of  openly  renouncing  Romanism ; then  to  Aguas 
Calientes  to  look  for  a little  American  child  whose  mother 
died  more  than  a year  ago,  and  whose  father,  given  up  to 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


225 


drink,  left  her  abandoned  in  a Mexican  family.  Her 
friends  on  her  mother's  side,  well-to-do  people  in  eastern 
New  York,  had  written  to  Mary  Loyd  to  make  inquiries 
and  see  if  the  child  could  be  found  and  sent  home  to  them. 

I took  the  matter  in  hand  and  found  that  the  people 
who  had  her  were  not  disposed  to  give  her  up,  but  I ascer- 
tained the  whereabouts  of  her  father,  and  a few  days  after 
my  return  to  Mexico  City,  went  to  Morelia  and  persuaded 
him  to  give  me  a letter  and  power  of  attorney  to  take  pos- 
session of  the  child.  Last  Monday  I went  again  to  Aguas 
Calientes,  and  on  Wednesday  the  authorities  gave  her 
over  to  me  and  I reached  home  with  her  Thanksgiving 
morning.  She  is  about  six  years  old,  a very  sweet  little 
thing,  quite  pretty,  and  knows  not  a word  of  English. 
Her  Mexican  friends,  who  had  been  very  kind  to  her,  and 
to  her  mother  in  her  last  illness,  had  had  her  baptized  in 
the  Roman  Church. 

We  celebrated  Thanksgiving  by  having  a few  friends  to 
dinner  and  going,  in  the  evening,  to  a reception  at  the 
American  Legation.  I was  up  the  next  morning  at  five 
o’clock  and  took  the  train  for  Cordova,  where  I preached 
and  administered  the  communion,  returning  home  Satur- 
day. I preached  here  this  morning,  and  am  to  preach  and 
hold  communion  service  to-night. 

When  I reach  home  to-morrow  night  I shall  have 
traveled  since  October  28  about  2,500  miles,  all  by  rail, 
besides  preaching  ten  times,  getting  out  the  Abogado  and 
other  work.  I shall  be  crowded  on  in  about  this  way  now 
till  after  Conference,  which  will  meet  January  14. 

As  I write  there  is  a great  clangor  of  bells  in  the  tower 
of  the  parish  church,  a square  away,  and  volley  after 
volley  of  rockets,  to-day  beginning  the  two  weeks’  festival 
of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  the  Great  Diana  of  the 
Mexicans.  At  the  veritable  shrine  of  the  apparition  of 
this  Virgin,  near  Mexico  City,  a ceremony  is  to  be  held 


226 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


the  12th  of  December  this  year,  which  has  not  been  held 
for  the  last  hundred  and  fifty  years,  namely,  the  formal 
oath  of  fealty  to  the  Virgin  is  to  be  taken  by  the  assembled 
multitude.  For  days  past,  a great  many  people,  mostly 
Indians,  have  been  coming  into  Mexico  City  on  foot,  over 
different  roads,  to  be  present  at  this  feast. 

Such  is  the  influence  which  that  monkish  invention  still 
has  over  this  people.  It  must  yet  be  a long  struggle  to 
overthrow  this  paganism,  but  the  time  will  come  when 
He  shall  reign  whose  right  it  is.  The  work  is  going  for- 
ward, and  I sometimes  wonder  whether  it  will  not  be  so 
that  at  some  time  in  the  not  distant  future,  the  Lord  will 
cut  short  the  work  in  righteousness  and  destroy  by  the 
brightness  of  his  coming  the  mystery  of  iniquity  which 
certainly  would  seem  to  be  now  fully  manifested.  We  can 
only  stand  in  our  lot,  and  work  and  wait.  . . . 

Pachuca,  December  5,  1885. 

I reached  Irolo  in  good  time,  Thursday  morning,  but 
only  to  find  that  under  the  new  arrangement  of  trains, 
there  would  be  none  leaving  for  Pachuca  till  noon,  so  I 
had  to  wait  there  nearly  four  hours!  When  we  reached 
Tepa  there  had  no  horse  arrived  for  me  to  go  across  to 
Tezontepec,  so  I had  to  go  on  to  Pachuca,  leaving  Brother 
Smith,  who  had  gone  to  meet  me,  to  make  the  journey 
alone. 

Arriving  at  Pachuca  I got  a horse  as  quickly  as  possible 
and  started  for  Tezontepec  about  four  o’clock.  I made 
good  time  till  darkness  overtook  me  about  two  leagues 
from  the  town.  It  was  cloudy  and  so  dark  that  I had 
great  difficulty  in  keeping  the  road,  and  had  to  go  very 
slowly.  Finally  I rode  up  to  the  chapel  door  just  as  they 
were  singing  the  last  hymn  before  the  sermon.  A boy 
took  my  horse  and  I went  in,  took  a text  and  preached  as 
best  I could.  After  the  preaching  service  held  Quarterly 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


227 


Conference  and  after  that  had  a little  supper,  and  got  to 
bed  about  eleven  o’clock,  a pretty  tired  itinerant. 

Friday  morning  Brother  Smith  and  I set  out  for  Pa- 
chuca,  arriving  there  at  noon.  As  I have  not  ridden  any 
for  two  or  three  months,  these  sixteen  leagues  were  enough 
to  bruise  me  up  considerably,  especially  as  I had  a trotting 
horse.  Held  Quarterly  Conference  at  the  close  of  prayer 
meeting  last  night,  and  was  busy  yesterday  afternoon  and 
most  of  to-day  in  consultation  with  Brothers  Smith  and 
Salmans  about  Mission  matters. 

To-morrow  morning  early,  I shall  be  on  my  way  to  Real 
del  Monte,  where  I am  to  preach  at  nine  o’clock  in 
Spanish,  and  at  one  in  English ; then  on  to  Omitlan  for 
Spanish  service  at  three,  and  back  to  Pachuca  for  Spanish 
preaching  and  communion  at  seven. 

Monday  afternoon,  Brother  Salmans  and  I go  on  horse- 
back to  Zinguilucan,  where  we  are  to  hold  opening  serv- 
ices on  Tuesday.  Wednesday  I will  be  on  the  way  to 
Irolo,  which  I hope  to  reach  by  noon.  All  the  friends 
here  are  well  and  the  work  is  encouraging. 

December  10. 

Brother  Smith  met  me  in  Irolo  and  accompanied  me  on 
this  journey  and  was  of  great  assistance  to  me.  From 
Irolo  we  went  to  Xoeliihuacan,  where  we  took  horses  for 
Acayuca,  four  leagues  distant,  arriving  about  six  o’clock. 
We  held  service  at  night  witli  a large  number  in  attend- 
ance and  were  much  encouraged  by  the  interest  mani- 
fested. 

The  next  morning  we  rode  to  Tezontepec.  five  leagues 
further,  held  Quarterly  Conference  in  the  afternoon  and 
a preaching  service  at  night,  which  was  also  well  at- 
tended. The  following  day  we  set  out  early  for  Tulan- 
cingo,  thirteen  leagues,  reaching  there  at  four  o’clock,  and 
held  services  in  the  newly  fitted  up  chapel,  an  occasion  of 


228 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


special  interest  to  the  brethren  there  as  well  as  to  our- 
selves. 

Friday  morning  we  left  for  Alfacayuca,  five  leagues, 
arriving  at  noon.  We  held  a meeting  at  night  and  left 
there  the  next  morning,  going  on  to  Pachuea,  which  we 
reached  after  a ride  of  six  leagues,  a good  deal  tired,  much 
sunburned,  and  with  our  clothes  badly  used  up. 

Mexico  City,  December  16,  1885. 

I reached  Miraflores  Sunday,  at  eleven  o’clock,  preached 
and  held  Quarterly  Conference,  and  after  dinner  started 
on  horseback  for  Ayapango,  arriving  at  half  past  four. 
Held  meeting  in  the  evening,  visited  the  school  the  next 
morning,  and  went  to  Ameca  to  take  the  train  at  1 p.  m., 
getting  back  here  at  four. 

I must  finish  the  translation  of  the  last  chapter  of  Long- 
king’s  Light  to  the  Path  to-night,  and  get  material  in 
order  for  the  next  issue  of  the  Abogado.  I shall  be  dread- 
fully busy  these  next  two  days,  getting  ready  to  start  on 
Thursday  to  Salamanca,  then  on  to  Guanajuato  and  Leon 
on  my  fourth  quarterly  visit. 

I feel  like  I am  going  on  what  is  to  be  my  last  round 
up  the  country  for  a good  while  to  come.  Yet  who  can 
tell  what  the  Conference  and  bishop  may  bring  forth? 
I have  a letter  from  Bishop  Foster  saying  he  will  reach 
Guanajuato  Saturday,  the  19th,  at  which  time  I am  to  be 
there  according  to  my  plan.  . . . 

Bishop  Foster  arrived  at  the  time  he  expected,  and 
visited  with  Mr.  Drees  all  the  Mission  stations  to  the 
north,  before  coming  to' Mexico  City.  He  spent  Christmas 
and  the  following  days  in  Puebla,  the  guest  of  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Siberts,  and  went  on  December  30  to  Pachuca,  and 
thence  to  Mexico  City,  where  Conference  met  the  14th  of 
January. 


MR.  Axn  MRS.  DREES  AT  THE  TIME  OF  THEIR  DEPARTURE 


CHAPTER  XIII 


(From  my  letter  home) 

Mexico  City,  January  28,  1886. 

Conference  is  over  and  we  had  an  unusually  pleasant 
and  harmonious  session.  Very  few  changes  were  made, 
the  principal  one,  however,  affecting  us  more  than  any  of 
the  others.  The  Conference  was  divided  into  three  dis- 
tricts: the  Northern,  including  Leon,  Guanajuato,  and 
Queretaro,  with  Mr.  Craver  as  presiding  elder;  the 
Southern,  including  Puebla  and  Orizava,  with  Mr.  Green- 
man  in  charge;  and  the  Central,  including  Mexico  City, 
three  or  four  smaller  places,  and  Pachuca,  for  C.  to  su- 
perintend. 

Some  of  the  Americans  and  all  the  Mexicans  objected 
to  this  arrangement,  believing  it  was  better  to  continue 
as  last  year,  with  but  one  district  and  C.  in  charge  of  it. 

Bishop  Foster  stayed  with  us,  and  was  a most  delight- 
ful guest.  Indeed,  his  visit  was  a blessing  to  all  of  us  per- 
sonally, as  well  as  to  the  general  work  of  the  Mission.  On 
Sunday,  he  preached  his  great  sermon  from  the  text: 
“What  is  man  that  thou  art  mindful  of  him?”  General 
Jackson,  the  American  Minister,  and  his  wife  were  pres- 
ent and  remained  to  the  Spanish  service  afterward. 

While  we  were  at  dinner  the  door  bell  rang,  and  the 
servant  came  ushering  in  General  Jackson,  who  wished 
to  see  the  bishop.  He  was  evidently  under  such  stress  of 
emotion  that  he  could  scarcely  speak.  He  said  he  only 
wished  to  take  him  by  the  hand  and  thank  him  for  that 

229 


230 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


sermon,  that  it  was  the  most  wonderful  thing  he  had  ever 
heard. 

Conference  closed  Monday,  and  that  night  we  had  a 
farewell  reception  for  the  bishop,  inviting  only  the  mem- 
bers of  the  Conference,  forty-five  in  number,  Mexicans  and 
Americans.  All  but  one  were  able  to  come,  and  the  eve- 
ning proved  to  be  a very  enjoyable  one. 

We  have  been  trying  to  find  some  one  going  to  the 
States  with  whom  we  could  send  the  little  girl  C.  brought 
down  from  Zacatecas  last  November,  but  no  one  has 
seemed  willing  to  take  charge  of  her.  As  soon  as  Bishop 
Foster  knew  of  it,  he  offered  to  take  her  with  him,  though 
she  knows  no  English  and  he  no  Spanish. 

When  C.  went  to  see  Mr.  Branniff,  the  president  of  the 
railroad,  to  ask  for  a pass  for  her  to  Vera  Cruz,  he  took 
her  with  him,  and  Mr.  B.  not  only  gave  a pass  for  her,  but 
also  one  for  C.,  and  another  for  the  bishop,  and  $5  besides 
“to  buy  candies”  on  the  way  home,  he  told  her.  The 
bishop,  however,  paid  his  own  fare,  and  gave  me  the 
benefit  of  his  pass;  so  C.  and  I went  with  them  to  Vera 
Cruz,  saw  them  on  board  the  steamer  and  arranged  with 
the  stewardess  to  take  charge  of  the  child  and  save  the 
bishop  all  possible  trouble  with  her.  . . . 


February  15. 

C.  has  just  bought  to-day,  for  the  W.  F.  M.  S.,  a prop- 
erty around  the  corner  from  us,  adjoining  this  building  in 
the  rear,  for  the  orphanage,  for  $40,000.  We  cannot  get 
possession  of  it  until  August,  but  it  will  belong  to  the 
Mission  as  soon  as  the  papers  are  made  out,  which  will  be 
some  time  this  week.  Miss  Le  Hurav  and  Mary  Loyd  are 
having  a jubilee  to-day,  they  are  so  pleased  with  their  new 
acquisition. 

Mr.  Green,  of  the  Presbyterian  Mission,  is  home  again, 
that  is  here  in  Mexico,  and  brought  for  the  orphanage  a 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


231 


present  from  some  society  in  the  States  of  a hundred  and 
five  sheets;  but  the  Custom  House  officials  in  Paso  del 
Norte  seized  them  and  Mary  had  to  pay  $70  in  duties 
and  fines.  He  also  brought  some  dress  goods  for  one  of 
their  missionaries,  which  cost  three  dollars  in  New  York, 
and  they  charged  nine  dollars  duties  on  that!  This  is 
the  usual  result  of  trying  to  have  anything  brought  out 
from  home.  . . . 


Zacualtipan,  June  2,  1886. 

Brother  Salmans  and  I have  carried  out  our  intention 
to  remain  here  several  days,  and  feel  that  we  are  well  re- 
paid. Sunday  night  we  had  our  first  service,  with  an 
attendance  inside  of  about  fifteen,  and  a number  of  at- 
tentive hearers  outside.  On  Monday  we  spent  the  morn- 
ing visiting  two  or  three  houses  where  our  friends  live, 
and  in  a prolonged  interview  with  the  Chief  of  Police,  who 
received  us  with  great  kindness  and  talked  very  freely  and 
cordially  with  us.  He  is  an  elderly  man  who  served 
against  the  French  and  was  made  prisoner  and  carried  to 
France. 

In  the  afternoon  we  went  with  Herbert  Rhett,  a coun- 
tryman of  ours,  who  is  in  charge  of  an  iron  mine  near  here, 
to  visit  the  iron  works  about  a league  down  the  gorge  and 
800  meters  below  the  level  of  this  place,  and  to  a flour 
mill  a little  lower  down.  It  was  a pleasant  ride  and  we 
enjoyed  it  very  much.  We  got  back  in  time  to  have  supper 
before  church.  We  had  a little  larger  attendance  than 
the  night  before. 

Tuesday  morning  we  went  early,  before  five  o’clock,  to 
the  river  to  bathe.  The  stream  is  a rocky,  shallow  one, 
where  the  water  has  worn  holes  in  the  living  rock  several 
feet  deep,  and  here  we  bathed  in  the  open  air.  The  water 
was  very  cold  and  the  bath  quite  invigorating.  In  the 
forenoon  I settled  accounts  and  made  some  arrangements 


232 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


with  the  local  preacher,  Espinoza,  and  wrote  a communi- 
cation to  the  authorities  giving  notice  of  the  establish- 
ment of  our  church. 

In  the  afternoon  there  was  an  arrival  at  the  hotel  in 
which  I was  much  interested.  It  was  that  of  an  aged 
priest  who  came  in  from  Molango,  seven  leagues  distant. 
He  was  lodged  in  the  room  next  to  ours,  and  I soon  found 
that  he  was  the  same  priest  with  whom  I had  a long  con- 
versation some  years  ago,  on  the  way  from  Orizaba  to 
Puebla,  and  who  called  on  me  and  attended  one  or  two 
services  in  our  church  in  the  latter  place.  He  recognized 
me  and  called  me  into  his  room,  embracing  me  with  great 
effusiveness. 

He  has  resigned  his  parish  and  is  on  his  way  to  Mexico 
City,  expecting  to  travel  through  the  interior  and  perhaps 
return  to  Spain.  He  assured  me  of  his  intention  to  call 
on  us  next  week  in  Mexico  City.  I first  met  him  in  1876. 
He  is  very  liberal,  very  skeptical  concerning  the  doctrines 
of  his  own  church,  but  has  continued  in  the  priesthood 
from  necessity,  convenience,  or  habit,  perhaps  from  all 
three. 

We  called  on  the  Juez  de  Letras,  Senor  Morenas  y Con- 
treras, to  whom  Brother  Salmans  had  a letter  of  introduc- 
tion. He  is  a young  man,  speaks  English,  as  does  also 
his  wife,  and  received  us  with  great  cordiality,  insisting 
that  we  must  dine  at  his  house  to-morrow.  He  knows 
Gamboa  well,  and  once  traveled  with  Miss  Swaney  from 
Pachuca  to  Mexico  City.  He  has  a very  exalted  opinion 
of  Miss  S. ; says  she  is  “very  intelligent  and  very  learned.” 

Our  meeting  at  night  was  more  largely  attended  than 
ever  and  a good  deal  of  serious  interest  prevailed.  I 
preached,  and  was  drawn  out  to  preach  at  considerable 
length.  We  closed  at  quarter  past  nine,  but  all  sat  down 
again,  and  did  not  seem  at  all  anxious  to  leave  the  place. 
Indeed,  Brother  Salmans  and  I were  the  first  to  go  out. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


233 


In  tlie  afternoon  one  of  the  brethren  came  to  ask  us  to  go 
to  his  house  to  talk  with  his  father,  who  is  as  yet  uncon- 
vinced of  the  truth.  We  went  and  had  an  extremely  in- 
teresting conversation  with  a very  simple-hearted,  gentle 
old  man. 

This  is  our  last  day  here.  We  expect  to  get  off  at  four 
o’clock,  and  if  our  horses  stand  the  journey  well  we  shall 
go  through  to  Tulancingo  by  six  or  seven  in  the  evening. 
We  have  three  horses  and  shall  use  them  in  relays.  The 
road  is  good,  and  the  distance  about  sixty  English  miles. 
I hope  to  go  to  Alfajayuca  Saturday  afternoon,  on  to 
Real  del  Monte  Sunday  morning,  to  Pachuca  in  the  eve- 
ning, and  home  again  on  Monday ! 

(From  my  letter  home) 

Washington’s  birthday  was  celebrated  here  this  year  by 
the  laying  of  the  corner  stone  of  the  new  American  Hos- 
pital, in  which  we  are  all  greatly  interested.  It  is  located 
just  in  the  edge  of  the  city,  on  the  road  to  Tacuba,  but 
some  distance  from  any  line  of  street  cars  and  in  the  midst 
of  green  fields  and  woods.  A more  suitable  place  could 
not  have  been  found. 

Both  the  American  railroads  gave  their  employees  a 
holiday,  and  many  of  them  were  present  at  the  exercises. 
A large  tent  or  awning  was  imt  up,  with  seats  for  the 
ladies,  refreshments  were  served,  and  it  was  made  a very 
pleasant  as  well  as  an  interesting  occasion. 

The  English  as  well  as  the  American  residents  here 
have  long  realized  the  great  need  of  such  an  institution 
and  are  very  enthusiastic  over  it,  and  disposed  to  do  all 
they  can  to  make  it  what  it  should  be. 

Mr.  Jones,  a missionary  from  Bulgaria,  is  spending  a 
few  days  with  us.  He  had  to  leave  there  on  account  of 
his  health,  and  was  advised  to  try  the  climate  of  Mexico. 
Unfortunately,  he  has  not  improved,  although  he  went 


234 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


for  a while  to  Cuautla,  which  is  much  warmer  and  much 
lower  than  Mexico  City.  As  he  found  he  was  failing 
rather  than  gaining,  he  decided  to  go  back  home,  and  is 
now  on  his  way  there,  expecting  to  sail  by  the  next 
steamer  for  New  Orleans.  He  hopes  to  get  a position  in 
Claflin  University. 

He  is  bright  and  cheerful  and  never  complains ; is  very 
earnest  and  interested  in  his  work  and  anxious  to  return 
to  it.  He  has  decided,  however,  that  he  will  have  to  give 
up  that  idea  for  another  year,  but  hopes  in  the  meantime 
to  be  able  to  do  something  in  the  South.  It  is  pathetic 
to  hear  him  talk  about  it  and  in  such  a hopeful  way,  for 
no  one  else  thinks  he  will  ever  see  Bulgaria  again. 

(From  my  letter  home) 

July  25,  1886. 

We  are  just  home  from  a delightful  trip  to  Morelia  and 
Patzcuaro,  on  the  Mexican  National  Railroad.  AVe  left 
here  early  Monday  morning,  a party  of  seven,  the  guests 
of  Mr.  Webb,  the  auditor  of  the  company.  We  took  a 
large  basket  of  provisions,  and  the  porter  carried  a spirit 
lamp  and  cooked  eggs  and  made  coffee,  so  that  we  had 
lunch  whenever  we  wanted  it,  and  dined  at  the  stations 
where  there  were  restaurants,  telegraphing  our  orders  in 
advance  of  our  arrival. 

The  country  through  which  this  road  passes  is  like  some 
parts  of  our  own  country,  with  beautiful  plains  and  val- 
leys and  slopes,  smooth  and  green  as  a well-kept  lawn, 
and  whole  fields  of  yellow  and  purple  and  white  wild 
flowers. 

We  reached  Morelia,  the  largest  city  on  the  road,  about 
nine  o’clock  that  night  and  spent  the  night  there,  sleep- 
ing on  or  in  our  own  private  car,  which  was  most  con- 
venient and  comfortable.  The  next  day  we  went  on  to 
Patzcuaro,  the  present  terminus  of  the  road,  275  miles 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


235 


from  Mexico  City.  The  town  is  two  miles  or  more  from 
the  railroad  station,  and  we  walked  up  there,  visited  the 
churches  and  other  places  of  interest,  and  then,  seeing  a 
diligence  about  to  start  in  that  direction,  got  seats  on  top 
of  it  and  had  a beautiful  view  of  the  lake  and  the  whole 
country  round  about  as  we  went  back. 

The  next  morning  we  went  across  the  lake  to  a little 
Indian  town,  which  we  found  quite  interesting.  We  went 
in  an  immense  sail  boat,  large  enough  to  hold  a hundred 
people,  and  coming  back  the  wind  fell  and  they  had  to 
resort  to  the  oars,  so  that  we  were  an  hour  and  a half  on 
the  return  voyage,  instead  of  half  an  hour. 

At  two  o’clock  we  started  back  to  Morelia,  arriving 
there  at  five.  We  had  time  to  go  up  town,  visit  the  cathe- 
dral and  other  interesting  places  before  supper,  and  in 
the  evening  went  to  the  park.  Thursday  we  spent  most 
of  the  day  in  the  Alameda,  a large,  neglected  park  in  the 
edge  of  the  city,  but  such  a lovely  old  place  that  we  were 
loath  to  leave  it. 

We  had  one  more  pleasant,  comfortable  night  in  our 
unusual  quarters,  and  early  the  next  morning  started  on 
our  return  journey,  reaching  home  at  eight  o’clock  that 
evening.  The  whole  week  was  most  enjoyable  and  the 
outing  did  us  a world  of  good. 

(To  his  mother) 

Mexico  City,  September  18,  1886. 

We  have  just  passed  through  the  festivities  with  which 
the  Mexican  Independence  Day,  September  16th,  is  cele- 
brated. A serenade  and  felicitation  to  the  President  on 
the  14th ; parades  of  schools  and  working  men  during  the 
day  on  the  15th,  with  the  so-called  “Grito”  at  night.  This 
last  ceremony  is  the  commemoration  of  the  decisive  act 
of  Hidalgo  who,  at  dead  of  night  in  the  town  of  Dolores, 
caused  the  church  bells  to  be  rung  and,  going  out  on  the 


236 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


balcony  of  his  house,  raised  the  cry  of  “Viva  la  Indepen- 
dence !” 

So  it  is  customary  to  have  a public  meeting  on  the  night 
of  the  15th,  with  music  and  popular  addresses  up  to  the 
memorable  hour  when  the  Declaration  of  Independence 
is  read  and  the  chief  official  of  each  place  takes  the  flag 
and,  waving  it,  raises  the  cry,  “Viva  la  Independence !” 

The  great  day,  of  course,  is  the  16th,  with  its  memorial 
services  in  the  “Cemetery  of  Illustrious  Men,”  with  its 
civic  and  military  parade,  its  public  concert  in  the  grand 
plaza  and,  this  year,  with  a ball  in  honor  of  the  President, 
which  was  attended  by  more  than  three  thousand  people, 
and  is  said  to  have  cost  $ 70, 000.  The  ball  room  was  fitted 
up  in  the  School  of  Mines,  the  whole  of  the  great  court 
being  built  over  at  the  level  of  the  second  floor  and  covered 
with  a canvas  roof,  the  entire  place  being  most  hand- 
somely decorated. 

I went  to  Miraflores  the  afternoon  of  the  15th,  to  be 
present  at  the  celebration  held  by  our  school  there.  After 
our  program  had  been  rendered,  we  marched  to  the  tent 
where  the  village  was  to  celebrate  the  occasion,  and 
listened  to  a speech,  followed  by  singing  and  fireworks. 
The  affair  did  not  come  to  a close  till  midnight.  I came 
back  to  Mexico  City  the  morning  of  the  16th,  and  our 
church  and  the  Episcopalian  Mission  had  an  enthusiastic 
celebration  in  our  large  audience  room  in  the  afternoon. 

I go  this  afternoon  to  Ayapango  to  stay  till  Monday, 
and  the  last  of  next  week  must  go  to  Paehuea  and  thence 
to  Zacualtipan,  a long  journey  on  horseback.  . . . 

Zacualtipan,  October  28,  1886. 

Brother  Salmans  and  I got  up  at  five  o’clock  Tuesday 
morning,  hoping  to  get  under  way  by  six,  but  were  de- 
layed in  getting  our  horses  properly  saddled  and  our  im- 
mense bundles  suitably  arranged,  so  that  it  was  nearly 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


237 


seven  when  we  finally  started.  As  soon  as  we  got  up  the 
mountain  a little  way,  we  found  the  wind  quite  cold  and 
soon  were  enveloped  in  the  clouds  and  had  to  get  out  our 
rubber  blankets,  which  we  did  not  remove  till  we  reached 
Atotonilco,  El  Grande,  twenty  miles  from  Pachuca. 

We  stopped  half  an  hour  at  Omitlan  and  from  there  to 
Atotonilco  we  rode  over  a very  bad  road  in  the  midst  of  a 
cold  driving  rain.  When  we  reached  here  and  had  gotten 
a little  dinner,  it  was  still  so  cold  and  rainy,  and  I was 
feeling  so  uncomfortable  with  wet  clothes  and  a head- 
ache, that  we  concluded  to  go  no  further  that  day.  To- 
ward night  we  got  a good  sized  “brasero,”  and  sending  for 
a supply  of  charcoal  soon  had  a good  fire  going  in  the 
“zaguan”  with  the  outer  doors  closed,  and  at  last  got 
thoroughly  dried  and  warmed. 

There  was  a poor  old  Indian  woman  who,  with  her  son, 
had  traveled  many  miles  in  the  rain  that  day  and  was 
soaked  to  the  skin.  They  were  too  poor  to  take  a room, 
and  there  she  sat  out  of  doors,  shivering  with  cold.  We 
had  her  draw  up  to  our  fire  and  dry  all  her  clothes,  till  at 
last  she  was  perfectly  comfortable  and  began  to  nod  over 
the  fire.  About  nine  o’clock  she  made  her  bed,  by  laying 
down  on  the  rough  stones  of  the  courtyard  the  coarse 
bagging  which  formed  the  pack-saddle  of  one  of  her 
donkeys,  and  retired  for  the  night,  bestowing  profuse 
blessings  on  us,  in  the  name  of  Heaven  and  the  Virgin, 
for  the  comfort  of  our  fire. 

The  same  afternoon  we  went  to  see  Wesley’s  aunt.  We 
knocked  at  the  outer  entrance  and,  getting  no  answer, 
pushed  it  open  and  went  from  door  to  door  in  the  court- 
yard, till  at  last  we  heard  a faint  answer,  and  going  in 
found  the  old  lady  had  gone  to  bed  with  all  her  clothes 
on  to  keep  warm.  She  seemed  glad  to  see  me  and  re- 
called all  we  had  done  for  her  nephews,  the  Vargas  boys. 

We  got  up  before  four  o’clock  Wednesday  morning,  and 


238 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


started  on  our  way  with  hardly  more  than  light  enough 
to  see  the  road,  which  was  very  heavy.  The  weather  was 
foggy  and  cloudy,  with  a little  rain  till  about  nine  o’clock. 
We  reached  Los  Venados,  at  the  bottom  of  the  barranca 
at  eleven  o’clock,  had  a little  mole  and  frijoles,  and  con- 
tinued our  journey,  arriving  here  at  five  o’clock,  after  a 
ride  of  nearly  forty  miles. 

We  had  meeting  at  seven  o’clock  and  I preached.  To- 
day I have  been  busy  correcting  copy  for  the  next  Abo- 
gado,  and  preached  again  to-night.  The  weather  here  is 
cold  and  foggy,  and  we  have  suffered  positive  discomfort. 
Last  night,  however,  we  got  a charcoal  fire  again,  and 
partially  dried  our  bed  clothes  before  we  went  to  bed. 
You  should  have  seen  the  steam  come  out  of  the  blanket 
when  I held  it  over  the  fire!  Yet  the  boy  said  the  bed 
clothes  were  not  damp. 

We  shall  stay  here  till  Monday,  and  if  the  weather  is 
favorable  by  that  time,  we  will  probably  go  farther  on 
into  the  Sierra,  to  explore  the  country  a little,  and  put 
the  native  preacher  here  on  the  track  of  some  extension 
of  his  work.  He  is  timid  about  undertaking  to  travel  over 
new  roads  and  going  to  new  places.  . . . 


Mexico  City,  November  10. 

Dear  Father  and  Mother: 

I have  very  strange  and  unexpected  news  to  communi- 
cate to  you  to-day.  It  came  yesterday  evening,  in  the 
form  of  a cablegram  from  Bishop  Warren,  as  the  result 
of  the  action  of  the  Board  of  Bishops.  We  have  been  so 
long  in  Mexico  that  we  had  begun  to  feel  like  we  were 
fixtures  here.  The  thought  of  transfer  to  another  mission 
field  had  never  crossed  my  mind  except  as  a very  remote 
and  shadowy  improbability ; but  it  has  become  a very  near 
and  probable  thing.  The  bishops  at  their  late  meeting 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


239 


unanimously  agreed  to  request  me  to  accept  the  superin- 
tendency of  the  South  America  Mission. 

Ada  was  out  when  the  message  came,  and  the  instant 
I glanced  at  its  contents,  the  consequences  all  rushed  over 
me  like  a flood  that  would  carry  me  off  my  feet.  What 
Ada  would  say,  how  her  family  and  you  both  would  feel 
about  it,  the  breaking  up  of  ties  here,  Galdino,  the  new 
and  untried  experiences  in  that  distant  field,  all  this  and 
much  more  flashed  through  my  mind  in  an  instant. 

When  Ada  came  home  a few  minutes  later  and  I broke 
the  news  to  her,  she  bore  it  like  the  brave  hearted  woman 
she  is.  We  have  talked  it  all  over,  lying  awake  for  hours 
last  night  and  praying  for  guidance.  We  have  looked  at 
all  sides  of  it  as  well  as  we  have  been  able,  in  view  of  the 
necessity  of  an  immediate  reply.  To  every  objection  there 
seemed  to  be  some  ready  answer  which  we  were  not  at 
liberty  to  ignore. 

Two  or  three  years  ago  it  might  possibly  have  been 
something  akin  to  disaster  for  me  to  have  been  removed. 
We  had  so  many  enterprises  in  their  first  stages  and  I 
had  the  lines  so  fully  in  hand,  that  it  would  have  been 
difficult  to  hand  them  over  to  another.  Now,  however,  the 
case  is  different.  Most  of  our  property  enterprises  have 
been  successfully  carried  through.  All  financial  matters 
are  in  a clear  state  of  settlement,  with  no  pecuniary  re- 
sponsibility to  be  borne  by  the  Mission  nor  by  any  in- 
dividual. My  books  and  accounts  are  in  such  condition 
that  I can  hand  them  over  at  any  hour. 

The  Mission  is  well  developed  in  its  organization,  and 
administrative  responsibility  is  so  divided  up,  that  one  of 
us  can  slip  out  easily.  Our  Conference  is  organized,  and 
no  superintendent  or  single  administrative  head  is  needed. 
I believe  a change,  with  infusion  of  new  blood  into  this 
Mission,  will  probably  be  very  beneficial.  It  will  re- 
awaken interest  in  it  and  care  for  it  on  the  part  of  the 


240 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


authorities',  and  may  lead  to  new  methods  and  greater 
activity  and  success  in  the  prosecution  of  the  work. 

The  difficulties  and  embarrassments  of  undertaking  new 
work  in  an  old  field  where,  as  I have  reason  to  believe, 
there  have  been  unfortunate  troubles  among  the  mission- 
aries, would  have  certainly  prevented  me  from  seeking 
such  a change.  The  bishops  must  have  had  powerful  rea- 
sons to  induce  them  to  agree  unanimously  upon  so  unusual 
a plan  as  this  of  transferring  a missionary  from  one  field 
to  another  so  distant.  As  I do  not  know  their  reasons 
I cannot  weigh  them,  and  as  a Methodist  preacher,  I can- 
not assume  the  responsibility  of  refusing  my  concurrence. 

Nearly  all  the  bishops  know  me  personally,  and  at  least 
five  of  those  present  at  the  late  meeting  have  had  personal 
knowledge  and  opportunity  for  direct  observation  of  our 
work  here.  I am  bound  therefore  to  believe  that  they 
have  taken  into  the  account  all  the  facts  and  interests  at 
both  ends  of  the  line. 

In  my  position  I would  not  choose  the  South  America 
work,  but  I am  not  at  liberty  to  refuse  it.  The  work  will 
be  hard  and  the  responsibility  great,  but  “it  is  good  for  a 
man  that  he  bear  the  yoke  in  his  youth,”  and  the  next  ten 
or  fifteen  years,  if  I am  spared,  will  be  my  time  for  yoke 
and  burden-bearing.  The  best  I have  I would  give  to  God 
and  the  church. 

What  we  shall  feel  most  keenly  and  what  we  fear  will 
give  you  most  pain,  will  be  the  much  greater  distance  from 
home  and  the  longer  periods  of  separation  from  our  loved 
ones.  To  this  it  is  hard  to  find  any  answer  except  that 
the  sacrifice  seems  to  be  required  of  us,  and  that  we  must 
seek  for  grace  to  offer  it  freely.  Our  Father  will  comfort 
your  hearts  and  ours. 

In  view  of  all  the  facts  involved  as  we  see  them,  I have 
this  morning  telegraphed  to  Bishop  Warren  that  we  are 
ready  to  undertake  any  service  the  judgment  of  the 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


241 


bishops  approves.  I shall  write  them  to-day  calling  their 
attention  to  some  facts  in  the  case,  and  leaving  the  way 
open  for  them  to  reconsider  their  action  if  they  see  fit. 
But  so  far  as  now  appears,  I suppose  we  will  simply  close 
up  our  affairs  here,  so  as  to  be  ready  to  start  home  im- 
mediately after  Conference. 

I hope  we  may  spend  the  latter  part  of  the  winter  and 
the  early  spring  with  you,  before  setting  out  on  our  long 
journey.  We  will  let  you  know  all  the  details  as  soon  as 
we  hear  more  at  length  from  New  York.  If  we  go.  I 
suppose  we  will  live  either  in  Buenos  Aires  or  Monte- 
video. I cannot  write  all  that  is  in  m}T  heart  to-day.  . . . 

On  November  16  another  cablegram  came  from  Bishop 
Fowler,  confirming  Mr.  Drees’s  appointment  to  the  su- 
perintendency of  the  South  America  Mission,  and  asking 
us  to  meet  him  at  Huntsville,  Ala.,  December  15.  The 
bishop  had  just  returned  from  South  America,  and  it 
seemed  very  desirable,  if  not  absolutely  necessary,  for  us 
to  see  him  and  learn  all  we  could  of  the  conditions  in  that 
Mission,  and  get  some  idea  of  what  awaited  us  there. 

During  the  next  two  weeks  we  disposed  of  our  furniture 
and  other  articles  that  we  could  not  take  with  us,  made 
all  the  preparations  that  such  a change  involved,  and  on 
December  2,  1886,  the  ninth  anniversary  of  my  arrival  in 
Mexico,  we  set  out  on  our  long  journey  to  that  distant 
part  of  the  world  that  was  destined  to  be  our  home  for 
many  years. 

The  days  were  so  few,  and  so  many  the  demands  in  con- 
nection with  final  adjustments  of  official  relations,  that 
no  farewell  visits  could  be  made  except  to  Puebla,  Mr. 
Drees’s  first  charge,  where  we  were  received  by  our  dear 
friends,  the  Greenmans,  with  whom  we  were  so  closely 
related  in  sympathy  from  their  first  arrival  in  Mexico,  and 
especially  after  the  Queretaro  episode. 


242 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


Many  of  those  who  were  the  first  converts  of  the  Mis- 
sion in  Puebla  were  still  there  to  bid  farewell  to  their 
first  pastor,  and  many  were  the  tears  that  were  shed.  I 
confess  to  my  full  share  in  them,  for  I was  greatly  at- 
tached to  these  warm-hearted  people  and  deeply  touched 
by  their  evident  grief  at  the  thought  of  not  seeing  us 
again.  A visit  to  the  grave  of  Mr.  Luders,  our  ever-to-be- 
remembered  friend  and  associate,  could  not  have  been 
forgotten  or  omitted. 

The  missionaries  and  Mexican  workers  in  general  were 
not  willing  for  us  to  leave  without  one  last  meeting,  and 
instead  of  writing  farewell  letters,  as  many  as  could  do 
so  came  to  Mexico  City  and  participated  in  the  good-by 
reception  which  was  given  us  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Butler. 
Many  kind  and  appreciative  words  were  spoken  and 
tokens  of  affection  bestowed  upon  us.  Among  these  last 
were  a valuable  collection  of  Mexicana,  works  on  the  his- 
tory of  Mexico,  presented  to  Mr.  Drees  with  the  sugges- 
tion that  the  donors  wished  him  not  to  forget,  in  his  new 
field  of  labor,  the  country  to  which  he  had  given  his  first 
service. 

To  me  were  given  a beautiful  satin  banner  in  the  Mexi- 
can colors,  with  the  national  coat  of  arms  handsomely 
embroidered  in  gold,  and  a bound  volume  of  the  Abogado 
Cristiano,  in  recognition  of  my  help  as  proof  reader  and 
unappointed  assistant  editor.  Of  the  letters  received,  a 
few  will  be  given  elsewhere,  as  recalling  some  of  the  kind 
messages  which  we  so  greatly  appreciated. 

Mr.  Drees’s  last  message  to  the  people  on  the  last  Sun- 
day evening  we  were  in  Mexico,  was  from  Phil.  1.  27-29 : 
“Only  let  your  manner  of  life  be  worthy  of  the  gospel  of 
Christ:  that,  whether  I come  and  see  you,  or  be  absent,  I 
may  hear  of  your  state,  that  ye  stand  fast  in  one  spirit, 
with  one  soul  striving  for  the  faith  of  the  gospel;  and  in 
nothing  affrighted  by  the  adversaries ; because  to  you  it 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


243 


hath  been  granted  in  the  behalf  of  Christ,  not  only  to  be- 
lieve on  him,  but  also  to  suffer  on  his  behalf 

It  was  not  easy  for  us  to  leave  Mexico.  We  were  bound 
to  the  country  and  to  the  people  by  a thousand  ties,  and 
as  we  drove  out  the  last  evening  to  say  our  adieux  to  va- 
rious old  friends  who  were  not  able  to  come  to  us,  and  as 
we  looked  for  the  last  time  on  the  beautiful  snow-covered 
mountains  which  met  our  view  in  every  direction,  and 
which  had  come  to  be  such  familiar  objects  to  us,  it  was 
with  inexpressible  regret  that  we  turned  our  eyes  away, 
and  realized  that  our  life  and  experiences  in  that  pic- 
turesque and  attractive  land  were  a thing  of  the  past. 


APPENDIX 


THE  DREES  FAMILY 

Tobias  Drees,  the  father  of  Charles  W.,  was  born  in  Ger- 
many, in  the  Grand  Duchy  of  Oldenberg,  on  February  19, 
1819.  When  he  was  thirteen  years  old,  the  family,  con- 
sisting of  his  grandfather,  his  father,  with  his  stepmother, 
and  the  young  children,  of  which  Tobias  was  the  eldest, 
emigrated  to  America. 

They  left  Bremen  in  a sailing  vessel  bound  for  Balti- 
more, Md.,  where  they  landed  in  the  spring  of  1832.  They 
knew  no  English,  and  the  strangeness  of  their  surround- 
ings was  enhanced  by  the  presence  of  Negroes,  the  first 
they  had  ever  seen.  They  at  once  began  preparations  for 
their  journey  West. 

Taking  their  goods  with  them  in  a Conestoga  wagon, 
they  began  their  trip  over  the  mountains,  reaching  Pitts- 
burgh some  forty  days  later.  Here  they  remained  several 
weeks,  during  which  time  Tobias  served  as  bell  boy  in  a 
hotel  and,  incidentally,  learned  enough  English  to  be  able 
to  act  as  interpreter  for  the  party.  After  this  delay,  they 
set  out  for  Ohio,  on  board  a flat  boat;  the  river  being  very 
low,  the  boat  often  grounded  and  the  passengers,  as  well 
as  the  crew,  were  obliged  to  wade  into  the  water  to  free 
the  boat. 

At  Cincinnati,  they  went  ashore  and  drove  across  the 
country  to  Mercer  County,  where  they  settled  on  a small 
farm  near  the  county  seat,  Saint  Mary.  After  some 
months,  the  boy  obtained  his  parents’  consent  to  start 
out  into  the  world  for  himself,  agreeing  to  send  home  a 
part  of  his  wages  toward  the  support  of  the  family.  With 

244 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


245 


his  clothes  tied  in  a handkerchief  and  swung  over  his 
shoulder  on  a stick,  and  his  lunch  wrapped  in  paper  in 
his  pocket,  he  set  off  toward  Troy,  O. 

When  he  became  hungry  he  sat  down  by  the  roadside 
to  eat  his  lunch  and,  as  he  sat  there  and  dreamed  of  his 
future,  he  pledged  himself  to  a life  of  uprightness  and 
honesty.  These  good  resolutions  were  never  forgotten, 
and  not  only  contributed  to  his  worldly  success  but,  as  he 
grew  to  be  an  old  man,  catised  him  to  be  looked  upon  by 
the  younger  generations  as  a veritable  saint. 

After  various  experiences  he  apprenticed  himself,  at  the 
age  of  twenty-one,  to  a carpenter,  and  in  1842  moved  with 
his  employer  to  Xenia.  Up  to  this  time  he  had  remained 
a Roman  Catholic  and,  as  there  was  no  Catholic  church 
either  in  Troy  or  Xenia,  he  made  the  journey  on  horse- 
back, once  every  year,  to  Saint  Mary,  for  the  purpose  of 
making  confession  and  receiving  the  sacrament. 

For  several  months  he  lived  in  the  family  of  his  em- 
ployer. They  were  ardent  Methodists,  and  prayer  meet- 
ings were  frequently  held  in  their  home.  Tobias  Drees 
was  occasionally  present,  and  was  deeply  impressed  by 
these  services.  Convinced  at  last  of  the  truth  of  the 
Protestant  faith,  he  was  finally  led,  not  without  severe 
mental  struggles,  to  renounce  Roman  Catholicism,  and 
united  with  the  First  Methodist  Church  of  Xenia*  of 
which  he  remained  a devoted  and  honored  member  during 
the  rest  of  his  life. 

One  Sunday  afternoon,  soon  after  his  arrival  in  Xenia, 
as  he,  in  company  with  his  employer,  was  walking  along 
the  country  road  south  of  the  town,  he  saw  a fair  young 
girl  across  an  open  meadow,  with  a milk  pail  in  her  hand ; 
whether  it  was  a case  of  love  at  first  sight  we  do  not  know, 
but  at  least  he  never  forgot  that  first  vision,  and  two 
years  later,  this  young  woman,  Maria  Hypes,  became  his 
wife. 


246 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


Her  parents  were  Henry  Hypes  and  Sarah  Wright 
Hypes.  The  Hypes  as  well  as  Wright  family  removed 
from  Fincastle,  Va.,  to  Xenia,  O.,  in  1811.  Their  daugh- 
ter, Maria,  was  born  April  25,  1825.  On  December  31, 
1846,  she  became  the  wife  of  Tobias  Drees. 

Mrs.  Drees  was  a most  capable  woman,  of  usual  intel- 
ligence, and  great  force  of  character.  The  modest  home 
over  which  she  at  first  presided  was,  from  the  beginning, 
a hospitable  one,  and  later  on,  as  their  worldly  goods  in- 
creased, their  home  became  the  headquarters  of  the  Meth- 
odist ministers  who  visited  Xenia.  A list  of  their  guests 
would  include  the  names  of  practically  all  the  notable 
ministers  of  southern  Ohio,  and  all  the  bishops  of  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church  of  that  generation. 

Mrs.  Drees’s  generous  nature  is  well  illustrated  by  the 
following  incident:  While  her  children  were  still  small, 
her  mother,  now  a widow  and  in  failing  health,  together 
with  an  aged  aunt,  became  members  of  the  household.  A 
few  months  later,  a carriage  one  day  stopped  at  the  door 
and  deposited  an  old  lady,  a former  neighbor.  As  Mrs. 
Drees  came  forward  to  meet  her,  she  exclaimed:  “Maria, 
you  told  me  that  if  I ever  wanted  a home  I could  come 
to  you,”  and,  pointing  to  her  baggage,  she  added,  “and 
I’ve  come.”  From  that  day  until  her  death  she  remained 
as  one  of  the  family,  cared  for  and  nursed  in  illness  with 
all  sympathy  and  good  will. 

Of  such  noble-hearted  parents,  Charles  W.  Drees  was 
born,  September  13,  1851,  their  second  child  and  eldest 
son. 

A striking  incident,  characteristic  of  the  boy,  occurred 
when  he  was  not  yet  twelve  years  of  age.  He  and  his  elder 
sister  were  about  to  make  a visit  to  a friend  living  in  the 
country  some  distance  from  Xenia,  a visit  to  which  he 
had  looked  forward  with  lively  anticipation  and  great 
pleasure. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


247 


They  took  the  train  and  arrived  at  the  station  where 
they  were  to  wait  for  the  carriage  of  their  friend.  During 
this  interval,  he  received  a strong  impression,  amounting 
to  a conviction,  that  he  was  needed  at  home  and  must  re- 
turn at  once.  In  spite  of  his  own  inclination  and  the 
natural  remonstrances  of  his  sister,  he  took  the  first  train 
home. 

On  his  arrival,  a friend  of  the  family,  happening  to  see 
him,  asked  how  his  father  was.  Seeing  that  the  boy  knew 
nothing  of  the  circumstances,  he  told  him  of  a serious  ac- 
cident that  his  father  had  met  with,  over  which  the  friend 
was  much  troubled.  On  reaching  home,  the  little  fellow 
found  that  his  mother  had,  indeed,  sore  need  of  him,  as 
she  was  alone  in  the  house  at  the  time,  with  the  care  of  a 
young  babe  as  well  as  her  injured  husband,  and  needed 
some  willing  feet  to  do  her  bidding. 

It  is  a trivial  incident,  yet  it  throws  light  upon  the 
growing  character  of  the  boy,  so  dependable  in  after  life, 
who  would  give  up  a long  anticipated  pleasure  because, 
in  the  language  of  early  Methodism,  “it  was  borne  in  upon 
him”  that  he  was  needed  at  home. 

In  the  winter  of  1863  a great  revival  broke  out  in  Xenia, 
one  of  those  spontaneous  movements  that  undoubtedly 
owe  their  origin  to  the  prayers  of  some  of  God’s  saints.  It 
was  in  this  revival  that  born  of  the  Spirit  which  searches 
and  vivifies  even  the  heart  of  a child,  a ray  of  light  illu- 
mined him,  and  he  then  experienced  for  the  first  time  the 
life  of  God  in  his  soul. 

His  conversion  at  this  early  age,  eleven  years,  deter- 
mined his  future  and  affected  all  his  after  life.  In  a 
letter,  written  to  a favorite  uncle  at  this  time,  he  tells 
how  he  then  felt  the  call  to  preach,  and  added : “If  I ever 
do  preach,  my  first  text  shall  be : Quench  not  the  Spirit.” 
Seven  years  afterward  he  did,  in  effect,  preach  his  first 
sermon  from  these  words : “Quench  not  the  Holy  Spirit.” 


248 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


At  tlie  Xenia  high  school  the  young  student  passed  four 
busy  years.  Professor  Ormsby  was  superintendent  of  the 
school  during  that  time,  but  later  went  to  England  and 
took  up  his  residence  in  London.  Here,  long  years  after- 
ward, teacher  and  pupil  met  once  more,  and  passed  some 
happy  hours  together,  talking  over  old  days  in  Xenia,  and 
the  varied  experiences  which  life  had  brought  to  each  of 
them. 

After  graduation  from  the  high  school,  he,  in  company 
with  several  fellow  pupils  who  aspired  to  a college  course, 
was  permitted  by  the  school  board  to  take  a year  of  post- 
graduate study,  fitting  them  to  enter  the  sophomore  class. 
His  chosen  college  was  the  Ohio  Wesleyan  University  at 
Delaware,  O.,  in  which  he  was  matriculated  in  September, 
18G8,  graduating  therefrom  in  June,  1871. 

COLLEGE  LIFE 

A college  friend  sends  these  reminiscences  of  their 
college  days. 

Many  years  ago  I left  my  home  in  Cincinnati  to  go  to 
college.  I was  a boy  of  eighteen  and  that  was  almost  my 
first  journey  away  from  home.  I had  been  a school  boy 
all  my  life  in  my  native  city,  and  had  just  graduated  at  the 
Woodward  High  School.  The  college  to  which  I was  go- 
ing was  located  in  Delaware,  O.,  a hundred  and  twenty- 
five  miles  north  of  Cincinnati,  and  twenty-five  north  of 
Columbus,  the  State  capital. 

My  home  had  always  been  in  the  largest  city  of  my  na- 
tive State,  and  the  transition  to  a quiet  little  college  town 
was  very  great.  The  college  was  the  Ohio  Wesleyan  Uni- 
versity, and  was  then,  as  it  is  to-dav,  one  of  the  leading 
educational  institutions  in  Methodism.  The  president 
was  Dr.  Frederick  Merrick,  a man  whose  godly  life  made 
a permanent  impression  upon  every  student. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


249 


Next  to  him  in  position  and  influence  was  Dr.  L.  D. 
McCabe,  white-haired  even  then,  but  full  of  the  eloquence 
and  fire  of  youth.  There  were  also  a number  of  other 
efficient  teachers.  To  me,  college  life  was  entering  upon  a 
new  world.  In  the  city  school  I had  been  accustomed  to 
a life  of  mechanical  routine  and  the  severest  discipline, 
and  the  life  at  college  I found  very  different.  Three  hun- 
dred young  men,  all  away  from  home,  were  drawn  together 
in  a manner  that  was  at  once  intimate  and  enjoyable. 

The  American  Civil  War  had  just  closed,  and  a number 
of  men  who  had  been  soldiers  in  that  great  struggle  had 
entered  the  college  to  complete  their  education.  The  con- 
trast between  them,  in  their  maturity,  and  myself  and  the 
body  of  youthful  students  was  very  great.  Many  of  the 
students  of  that  day  later  became  very  distinguished  men, 
one  reaching  the  high  office  of  Vice-President  of  the  United 
States ; others  became  governors  of  great  commonwealths, 
senators,  judges,  pastors,  bishops,  and  many  achieved  dis- 
tinction in  realms  of  science,  letters,  and  commerce. 

My  earliest  recollections  are  associated  with  a fair- 
haired,  blue-eyed  boy,  a year  younger  than  myself,  whose 
name  was  Charles  W.  Drees.  We  were  both  expecting  to 
enter  the  Christian  ministry,  and  were  congenial  in  all 
our  tastes.  It  happened  also  that  I was  brought  into  a 
specially  intimate  relation  to  him,  through  becoming  a 
member  of  the  same  Greek  letter  secret  fraternity.  After 
all  these  years,  it  seems  only  last  night  that  in  a darkened 
room,  in  a cottage  home  in  this  college  town,  Charley 
Drees  was  explaining  the  mystical  meaning  of  the  letters 
on  the  jeweled  fraternity  pin  which  I was  to  wear. 

Three  happy  years  were  passed  together.  Charley  was 
one  of  the  most  popular  boys  in  the  college,  good  natured, 
full  of  humor  and  a universal  favorite  with  both  profes- 
sors and  students.  He  was  a thorough  student  and  al- 
ways mastered  every  subject.  We  graduated  the  same 


250 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


year  and  received  our  diplomas  as  Bachelors  of  Arts  on 
the  same  summer  morning  in  the  year  1871.  Later  we 
entered  the  School  of  Theology  of  Boston  University  and 
both  graduated  from  that  institution.  Then  we  separated 
to  different  fields  of  labor,  and  at  last  after  many  years, 
through  his  instrumentality,  I was  invited  to  become 
pastor  of  the  First  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  in  Buenos 
Ayres. 

Of  the  delightful  years  of  fellowship  I have  had  with 
him  since,  it  is  not  my  purpose  now  to  speak,  these  recol- 
lections being  limited  to  our  college  days. 


The  following  letter,  written  while  in  college,  only  a 
few  weeks  before  commencement,  gives  a very  clear  idea 
of  his  views  at  that  time. 


Ohio  Wesleyan  University, 

^ „ Delaware,  O.,  May  1,  1871. 

Dear  Father:  * ’ J ’ 

I received  by  the  noon  mail  a letter  which  determined 
me  to  write  to  you  upon  a subject  which  has  a very  im- 
portant bearing  upon  my  future.  I begin  to  feel  that  it 
is  important  for  me  to  mark  out  definitely  what  course 
I shall  pursue  immediately  after  leaving  college,  and  of 
course  you  will  have  a great  influence  in  determining  what 
that  course  shall  be. 

I long  ago  decided  that  God  called  me  to  the  work  of 
preaching  the  gospel,  and  ever  since  I have  been  in  college 
I have  been  shaping  my  studies  with  that  end  in  view. 
Now  that  I am  so  near  the  close  of  my  college  course  I 
feel  more  than  ever  the  necessity  for  the  most  complete 


preparation  for  the  work  of  the  ministry  that  the  ad- 
vantages of  our  day  afford  in  the  way  of  theological 
schools  as  well  as  colleges.  Time  was  when  the  Methodist 
preacher,  with  nothing  but  his  Bible  and  the  knowledge 
he  could  gain  by  his  own  unaided  efforts,  could  attain 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


251 


the  very  highest  success  in  persuading  the  people  and  in 
fighting  with  error. 

But  your  own  memory  will  convince  you  that  there 
has  been  a very  great  change,  and  it  is  even  now  true  and 
will,  in  the  years  to  come,  be  still  more  manifestly  true, 
that  the  most  powerful  men  for  good  in  the  church  are, 
and  will  be,  those  who  have  obtained  the  most  thorough 
preparation  for  the  work  to  which  the  Master  calls  them. 

Looking  at  it  in  this  light,  I cannot  feel  that  I should 
do  right  to  settle  down  in  the  ministry  without  availing 
myself  of  the  advantage  of  attending  one  of  the  theological 
schools.  I expect  to  preach  Christ,  not  for  my  own  fame 
and  worldly  profit,  but  I believe  I can  conscientiously  say, 
only  for  the  sake  of  doing  good.  With  this  as  my  only 
object  I cannot  help  feeling  it  to  be  my  duty  to  arm  my- 
self fully  before  going  into  the  battle  of  life. 

Mother  has  probably  told  you  of  my  desire  to  go  to  the 
Boston  Theological  School,  and  I have  now  tried  to  tell 
you  my  reasons  for  so  desiring.  But  you  must  not  think 
that  I have  depended  alone  on  my  own  judgment  in  com- 
ing to  this  conclusion.  I have  too  little  confidence  in  my 
own  judgment  for  that.  I have  asked  advice  from  Uncle 
Will,  and  from  some  members  of  the  faculty  here,  and 
they  have  all  not  only  confirmed  but  also  greatly  strength- 
ened me  in  my  inclination. 

Three  courses  seem  to  be  open  to  me.  The  first  is  to 
enter  the  Conference  next  fall  without  going  to  a theolog- 
ical school.  This  would  of  course  cut  off  all  prospect  of 
my  ever  being  able  to  do  so,  for  I could  never  hope  to  save 
enough  money  in  the  itinerant  work  to  pay  my  expenses 
there.  So  that,  in  my  present  state  of  mind,  I cannot 
enter  upon  that  course.  The  choice  then  lies  between  the 
other  two.  Circumstances  must  of  necessity  be  a factor 
in  coming  to  a decision. 

The  first  of  these  is  to  go  to  Boston  next  year.  This  of 


252 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


course  depends  upon  your  ability  to  advance  me  the 
money  to  pay  my  expenses,  which  would  be  in  the  aggre- 
gate $250  or  $275  per  year,  that  is,  during  term  time 
which  is  about  nine  months.  This  would  include  cloth- 
ing, traveling  expenses,  etc.  It  may  be  that  it  will  be 
necessary  for  me  to  attend  three  years,  but  it  is  likely  that 
I would  be  able  to  complete  the  course  in  two  years.  I 
have  felt  all  along  during  my  college  course  that  I am 
a very  heavy  burden  to  you,  and  it  has  not  been  an  agree- 
able feeling  by  any  means.  It  is  only  with  hesitation  that 
I can  bring  myself  to  ask  you  to  assist  me  or  rather  sup- 
port me  any  further;  for  not  only  is  it  unpleasant  for  me 
to  be  any  longer  a burden  to  you,  but  if  I felt  that  it  would 
much  embarrass  you,  or  still  more  if  I knew  that  it  would 
prevent  the  other  boys  receiving  just  as  good  an  education 
as  I,  I would  feel  that  I was  doing  wrong  if  I accepted 
it  at  your  hands.  I feel  that  it  would  be  greatly  to  my 
advantage  to  go  to  Boston  next  year,  but  if  your  affairs 
are  such  that  you  cannot  do  it  without  embarrassment,  I 
will  gladly  withdraw  my  request.  I hope  you  will  think 
of  the  matter  and  let  me  know,  as  soon  as  you  can  de- 
termine it,  just  what  I may  expect. 

If  your  decision  should  indicate  that  it  would  be  best, 
I will  take  the  third  course.  This  is  to  obtain  a position 
as  teacher  where  I could  earn  money  enough  to  carry  me 
through  the  theological  school.  This  brings  me  to  the 
subject  of  the  letter  which  I spoke  of  in  the  first  place. 
This  letter  is  from  a friend  of  mine  in  Louisiana,  in  which 
he  states  that  he  can  procure  me  a situation  as  teacher  in 
the  public  school  of  some  town  in  that  State,  at  a salary 
of  one  hundred  dollars  a month,  equivalent  to  a thousand 
dollars  a year,  if  their  school  year  is  ten  months.  As  the 
State  is  probably  pretty  thoroughly  reconstructed,  I be- 
lieve I could  go  there  with  perfect  safety;  and  in  this  way 
in  two,  or  at  most  three  years,  I could  save  money  enough 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


253 


to  carry  me  through  the  Boston  school.  If  I took  this 
last  plan,  I should  join  the  Louisiana  Conference,  teach- 
ing during  the  week,  and  doing  missionary  work  on  Sun- 
day. This  is  now  the  plan  of  our  church  in  that  State.  I 
can  adjust  myself  easily  to  this  work. 

I submit  all  these  plans  to  you,  and  hope  to  hear  soon 
of  your  decision  with  regard  to  them. 

Your  loving  son, 

C.  W.  Drees. 

That  his  parents  were  in  hearty  sympathy  with  his  as- 
pirations, and  willing  to  help  in  every  way  to  further  his 
plans  for  carrying  them  out,  is  evidenced  by  the  fact  that 
he  entered  upon  his  studies  in  the  theological  school  in 
Boston  the  following  year.  His  first  letter  after  his  ar- 
rival is  dated  September  11,  1871. 

Dear  Mother  : 

As  nearly  as  possible,  according  to  promise,  I sit  down 
this  afternoon  to  tell  you  of  our  journey.  After  getting 
upon  the  train  Thursday  night,  we  found  not  only  John 
Van  Cleve,  but  also  Davis  Clark,  thus  adding  another  to 
our  company.  The  cars  were  very  much  crowded  and 
some  of  our  fellow  travelers  were  rather  noisy,  so  that 
what  with  crowding  and  noise,  I slept  scarcely  any  all 
night. 

Waiting  about  an  hour  at  Columbus,  we  proceeded  to 
Pittsburgh,  arriving  there  too  late  to  make  connections, 
and  discovering  that  we  should  have  to  wait  five  long 
hours,  till  six  o’clock.  You  may  imagine  this  made  me 
feel  rather  uncomfortable,  as  I knew  that  it  would  dis- 
arrange all  our  plans  and  put  us  into  Boston  after  night. 
Riding  all  night  in  a full  car,  catching  now  and  then  an 
unsatisfactory  nap,  we  arrived  in  the  city  of  Brotherly 
Love  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour  behind  time.  Four 


254 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


of  our  party  succeeded  in  jumping  upon  the  train  for  New 
York  after  it  had  begun  to  move.  Our  baggage  and  one 
of  our  party  were  left  behind,  but  came  on  after  us  in  a 
special  train.  After  jolting  along  on  the  rough  Camden 
and  Amboy  road  all  the  morning,  we  got  into  New  York 
about  noon.  Here  we  were  swindled  by  New  York  hack- 
men  to  the  amount  of  one  dollar! 

Hurrying  from  the  ferry  to  the  New  Haven  depot,  we 
got  there  just  in  time  for  the  train.  Brother  Higgins, 
having  his  baggage  checked  through,  got  on  the  train  and 
went  on.  Cheney  went  over  to  Brooklyn  to  stay  over  Sab- 
bath. Van  Cleve  and  I had  to  wait  three  hours  till  Clark 
and  our  baggage  should  come.  Finally  our  eyes  were 
cheered  by  Clark’s  appearance  and,  hastily  checking  our 
baggage,  we  left  New  York  at  three  o’clock.  We  sup- 
posed Brother  Higgins  would  reach  Boston  in  advance 
of  us;  but  when  we  came  to  Springfield,  he  walked  into 
our  car  and  smilingly  told  us  that  he  had  missed  connec- 
tion and  had  been  forced  to  wait  for  us  there.  A re- 
united party,  we  plunged  on  in  the  darkness  till  we 
reached  here,  after  midnight. 

Leaving  the  depot  we  started  to  walk,  we  scarcely 
knew  whither.  Our  steps  were,  I believe,  providentially 
directed,  for  we  went  by  the  shortest  route  directly  to  the 
door  of  the  seminary,  when  neither  of  us  knew  in  the 
slightest  measure  how  to  find  it.  We  rang  the  night  bell, 
but  could  not  rouse  anyone.  Walking  on  about  a square, 
we  stumbled  upon  the  Tremont  House,  where  we  stayed 
all  night  and  to  breakfast,  for  which  we  paid  the  exor- 
bitant price  of  $2.75 ! 

I am  as  yet  very  much  unsettled,  but  hope  to  be  and 
feel  more  at  home  here  shortly. 

With  much  love, 

Your  son, 

Charley. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


255 


The  next  letter  is  written  September  13  to  his  mother : 

The  former  treatise  wrote  I unto  thee,  O best  of 
mothers ! to  advise  yon  briefly  of  my  journey — some  of  its 
mishaps  and  catastrophes — and  finally  of  its  conclusion. 
When  I had  finished  that  letter  a great  many  things  came 
up  in  my  mind  that  I thought  I ought  to  have  written, 
but  I consoled  myself  with  the  thought  that  I would  soon 
write  again,  and  remember  to  include  them. 

Since  Sunday  morning  I have  been  taking  my  meals  at 
a restaurant  just  across  the  street,  at  the  rate  of  from 
eighteen  to  thirty-five  cents  per  meal.  However,  in  an 
hour  or  two,  I shall  test  the  virtues  of  a seminary  club 
arrangement,  as  it  begins  operations  with  this  evening’s 
supper.  I have  some  misgivings  with  regard  to  this  club 
arrangement,  but  I suppose  they  will  prove  groundless. 

I have  no  doubt  you  will  like  to  know  something  about 
my  room,  etc.  I live  in  a room  in  the  fourth  story  of  a 
fine  stone  front  building  on  Bromfield  Street,  in  the  Hub 
of  the  universe.  This  room  of  mine  is  of  rather  a peculiar 
shape,  being  between  seven  and  eight  feet  wide,  by  about 
twenty-five  feet  long.  So  you  see  when  I want  to  take  a 
long  walk  in  one  direction,  I can  do  so  without  leaving  my 
room.  Indeed,  it  is  quite  a promenade  from  end  to  end 
of  it.  Mine  is  one  of  three  rooms  made  by  running  two 
partitions  through  a room  which  was  originally  almost 
square.  In  one  end  is  a large  window  reaching  almost 
entirely  across  it,  in  the  seat  of  which  I am  now  writing. 
At  the  other  end  is  a door  leading  into  a lobby  which 
opens  into  the  main  corridor. 

The  furniture  of  the  room  is  as  follows,  namely : 1 iron 
bedstead ; 1 dilapidated  washstand ; 1 looking  glass ; 2 
rickety  chairs ; 2 small  leaved  tables ; 2 book  shelves.  In 
addition  to  these,  there  is  an  extemporized  clothes  press, 
made  by  putting  up  two  boards  in  the  corner  with  a strip, 
with  four  double  hooks  inside,  and  chintz  curtains  hang- 


256 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


mg  in  front  to  keep  out  the  dust.  The  steam  register  is 
in  one  corner  near  the  window.  We  find  furnished  for  the 
bed  a mattress,  by  no  means  soft,  two  pillows  of  chicken 
feathers,  two  thin  comforts,  and  a bedspread. 

I must  not  forget  to  mention  in  this  connection  “sister” 
Blye,  the  matron.  She  is  an  “ancient  maiden  lady,”  who 
has  a mission  in  the  world.  She  has  been  matron  to  the 
seminary  for  five  years,  and  seems  well  adapted  to  the 
position.  She  received  us  very  kindly  last  Sunday  morn- 
ing, made  us  feel  at  home,  and  as  our  trunks  had  not 
arrived,  furnished  us  bed  linen  and  towels  from  her  own 
store  until  ours  came. 

The  seminary  began  its  session  this  morning  with  good 
attendance.  The  professors  are  very  pleasant,  kind  men, 
rather  younger  than  I expected  to  find  them.  The  students 
are  all  very  friendly  and  sociable,  and  I expect,  before  the 
year  shall  have  expired,  to  have  formed  very  many  pleas- 
ant associations  and  to  have  gained  many  new  and  lasting 
friends. 

I have  just  returned  from  my  first  meal  at  the  seminary 
club.  We  had  cold  bread,  warm  bread,  butter  and  mo- 
lasses, with  tea  or  water  to  drink,  and  pears  for  dessert. 
I shall  quit  tea  as  it  is  charged  extra  for. 

(To  his  father) 

Boston,  October  14,  1871. 

My  dear  Father: 

I address  this  letter  to  you  because  I want  to  write 
more  particularly  about  our  seminary  than  I have  yet 
done.  I have  written  before  of  our  location  right  in  the 
business  center  of  the  city,  and  of  our  being  within  a few 
minutes’  walk  of  the  places  of  greatest  interest.  I don’t 
know  whether  I have  written  particularly  about  our 
boarding  arrangements.  All  the  students  are  formed  into 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


257 


a club,  electing,  besides  other  suitable  officers,  a commis- 
sary, who  does  the  buying,  and  a treasurer  who  manages 
the  finances.  Provisions  are  bought  in  quantities,  and 
several  women  are  hired  to  attend  to  the  cooking.  Assess- 
ments are  made  at  the  close  of  each  month,  covering  the 
exact  cost.  This  amount  is  divided  on  the  basis  of  the 
number  of  meals  each  student  has  taken,  three  or  more 
absences  occurring  in  succession  being  deducted.  The 
assessment  for  the  first  month  was  made  last  Wednesday, 
and  was  twelve  cents  per  meal.  My  bill  for  the  month 
was  $10.31.  For  this  amount  we  obtain  a very  good  board, 
having  enough  variety  to  make  it  acceptable.  Washing 
is  done  at  cost. 

We  come  now  to  the  seminary  proper.  There  are  four 
regular  chairs  of  instruction.  Systematic  Theology,  filled 
by  W.  F.  Warren,  D.D. ; Historical  Theology,  Dr.  Lati- 
mer ; Exegetical  Theology,  Dr.  Lindsey ; and  Practical 
Theology,  Dr.  Townsend.  Besides  these,  there  are  some 
other  provisions  made  for  the  study  of  other  branches, 
such  as  German.  The  instruction  in  all  the  regular  de- 
partments is  wholly  by  lectures,  with  the  exception  of 
Dr.  Lindsey’s  department,  which  includes  Hebrew  and 
Greek. 

The  student  is  required  to  take  note  of  these  lectures ; 
in  some,  to  take  every  word  that  falls  from  the  lips  of  the 
professor,  and  in  others,  simply  to  note  the  principal 
points;  but  in  every  case,  he  is  expected  to  take  sufficient 
notes  to  give  him  a thorough  basis  for  his  knowledge  of 
the  subject  treated  of.  Text  books  are  used  only  by  way 
of  reference,  and  are  not  brought  into  requisition  in  any 
case  in  the  lecture  room.  While  this  method,  in  many 
respects,  makes  the  student’s  work  more  laborious,  it  still 
possesses  many  advantages  over  the  old  method. 

In  the  department  of  Systematic  Theology,  our  work 
thus  far  has  been  to  gain  a general  view  of  theological 


258 


THIRTEEN  TEARS  IN  MEXICO 


study,  with  its  branches  and  related  sciences  introductory 
to  the  study  of  the  particular  departments.  In  Historical 
Theology,  we  have  taken  a general  view  of  the  department, 
and  spent  ten  lectures  on  the  life  of  Jesus.  In  Exegetical 
Theology.  Hebrew  grammar,  and  Greek  Testament,  and  in 
Practical  Theology,  we  are  in  the  preparatory  course  of 
lectures;  each  student  is  required  to  prepare  a thesis  or 
conversation  on  a topic  in  sacred  rhetoric,  and  once  a 
week  to  present  a report  and  criticism  of  the  sermon  he 
heard  the  preceding  Sabbath.  In  Professor  Latimer’s  de- 
partment, also,  each  student  is  assigned  a topic  in  sacred 
history,  to  work  up  independently.  This  is  the  present 
work  of  the  class  to  which  I belong.  Dr.  Warren  is  also 
giving  us  a very  interesting  course  of  lectures  on  Chris- 
tian Missions. 

Since  I have  been  here,  I have  been  convinced  more 
fully  than  ever  that  I would  have  suffered  an  almost  irrep- 
arable loss  had  I postponed  coming  till  next  week.  Our 
professors  are  all  comparatively  young  men.  just  the  men 
for  their  positions,  and  more  than  that,  are  very  earnest 
and  active  in  their  piety  and  zeal  for  the  Master’s  cause. 
We  have  already  had  one  course  of  lectures  extraordinary 
before  the  seminary  by  Dr.  Wentworth,  on  China.  The 
next  course  comes  the  week  after  Thanksgiving,  by  Dr. 
Samuel  Harris,  of  the  Yale  Divinity  School.  These 
courses  are  daily  lectures  at  twelve  o’clock,  in  Wesleyan 
Association  Hall,  provided  specially  for  the  students. 
Such  is  a general  view  of  the  intellectual  work  laid  out 
for  the  student ; but  it  is  not  all. 

I inclose  a copy  of  the  rules  of  the  institution,  from 
which  you  will  see  that  mere  professional  study  and  in- 
tellectual qualifications  are  regarded  here  as  secondary, 
in  real  importance,  to  a true  preparation  for  the  work  of 
the  ministry,  to  the  cultivation  of  those  graces  which 
manifest  themselves  in  piety  toward  God  and  love  for  the 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


259 


souls  for  whom  Christ  died.  When  I say  that  in  the  work- 
ing of  the  seminary,  this  is  not  a lifeless  theory,  but  a 
living  truth  enforced  each  day,  by  prayer,  precept,  and 
example,  I mean  all  that  those  words  can  convey. 

We  have  now  about  eighty  students,  of  whom  one  third 
are  absent  each  Sabbath,  preaching  all  through  this  por- 
tion of  the  State.  I am  told  that  Methodism  is  extending 
her  borders  very  rapidly  here,  that  newr  charges  are 
springing  up  in  considerable  numbers  and  this  largely 
through  the  influence  of  the  seminary. 

I write  to-day,  as  I am  to  go  out  of  the  city  at  four 
o’clock,  to  spend  the  Sabbath  at  West  Chelmsford,  thirty 
or  forty  miles  from  here. 

Give  my  love  to  all,  and  write  soon  to  your  affectionate 
S0D’  Charles  W.  Drees. 

The  first  public  event  of  special  importance  occurring 
at  the  close  of  this  school  year,  was  the  great  Peace 
Jubilee,  celebrated  in  Boston  in  the  month  of  June,  1872, 
of  which  he  gives  a brief  account : 


,,  ,,  Boston,  June  21,  1872. 

My  dear  Mother  : 

When  I last  wrote  on  Friday,  I meant  surely  to  do  so 
again  in  a very  few  days,  but  Monday  brought  all  the 
work,  excitement,  and  weariness  of  the  Jubilee,  so  that 
my  time  during  the  day  has  been  greatly  occupied,  and 
at  night  I have  been  so  weary  that  a week  has  gone  by 
and  as  yet  no  letter  written.  I shall  be  heartily  glad 
when  the  Jubilee  is  over,  for  while  I enjoy  it  immensely, 
I find  it  very  wearing,  and  long  to  settle  quietly  down  to 
my  work. 

I have  been  chorus  usher  every  afternoon  this  week 
from  2 to  7 p.  m.  Two  days  I have  spent  the  whole  time 
from  half  past  eight  in  the  morning  till  seven  at  night  at 


260 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


the  Coliseum,  on  mj  feet  nearly  all  the  time,  running  here 
and  there  to  keep  the  singers  in  order,  having  trouble 
with  refractory  ones  now  and  then,  and  being  obliged  to 
summon  a policeman  to  take  in  hand  some  violent  man  or 
woman.  Persons  of  all  kinds,  with  every  imaginable  com- 
plaint and  question  come,  thinking  that  the  usher  ought 
to  be  able  to  know  every  thing,  manage  every  thing,  and 
clear  up  every  difficulty.  Imagine  fifty  or  sixty  ushers 
to  twenty  thousand  people  and  you  can  form  some  con- 
ception of  what  a task  it  was.  Later  I will  write  some- 
thing of  the  Jubilee,  now  I can  only  say  that  the  music 
is  grand,  soul-stirring,  and  altogether  indescribable  in 
its  effects. 

The  first  thing  on  Monday’s  program  was  Old  Hundred, 
to  the  hymn,  “From  all  that  dwell  below  the  skies.”  Men 
and  women  were  affected  to  tears;  I never  experienced 
such  an  elevating  sensation.  Every  nerve  seemed  to 
quiver  as  the  grand  old  hymn  rolled  up  from  twenty 
thousand  human  voices,  the  thousand  tongued  orchestra, 
the  immense  organ,  and  the  booming  cannon. 

(A  week  later) 

The  Peace  Jubilee  still  continues,  and  is,  of  course, 
the  all-absorbing  object  of  thought  and  interest.  Grant 
was  present  on  Tuesday  afternoon,  and  for  the  first  and 
only  time,  the  vast  Coliseum  was  crowded  to  its  utmost 
capacity;  approximately  seventy  thousand  people  were 
in  the  building.  To-day  it  is  understood  that  the  would- 
be  President,  Horace  Greeley,  honors  the  Jubilee  with  his 
presence.  I doubt  whether  he  will  be  the  occasion  of 
much  enthusiasm.  To-morrow  will  be  Gilmore’s  benefit. 

The  chief  and  universal  enthusiasm  of  the  multitude 
centers  about  Madame  Leutner,  the  German  Prima  Donna, 
the  universal  verdict  places  her  far  ahead  of  Nilsson  or 
Parepa  Rosa.  Her  powers  of  vocalization  are  simply  mar- 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


2G1 


velous,  filling  the  auditorium,  so  that  every  note  can  be 
heard  in  the  most  distant  portions;  she  reaches  the 
highest  notes  with  the  greatest  apparent  ease.  As  to 
military  band  music,  the  French  band  seems  to  carry  the 
day;  but  enough  of  the  Jubilee  for  this  time. 

(To  his  mother,  from  Boston,  on  his  coming  of  age) 
My  dear  Mother  : 

I feel  as  though  I ought  to  write  a letter  home  to-night. 
It  is  not,  however,  so  much  this  feeling  of  obligation  which 
leads  me  to  do  so,  as  the  feeling  that  it  will  really  do  my 
heart  good  to  talk  to  you  a little  on  paper.  I wish,  if  it 
might  be,  that  I could  see  your  face  and  talk  to  you  by 
word  of  mouth ; but  as  that  is  impossible,  I can  only  call 
up  your  face  and,  in  imagination,  keep  it  before  me  while 
writing. 

As  you  no  doubt  remember,  to-dav  is  my  birthday;  I 
am  twenty-one  to-day.  This  date  serves  to  remind  me 
strongly  of  the  great  goodness  God  has  shown  me  in  a 
thousand  ways.  My  feeling  to-night,  as  I stand  upon  the 
dividing  ridge  between  youth  and  manhood,  is  one  of  pro- 
found gratitude  and  praise  to  God,  to  whom  I offer  a re- 
newed consecration  of  my  whole  being.  I do  rejoice  that, 
poor  and  unworthy  as  the  offering  is,  he  yet  accepts  it 
and  fills  me  with  his  love;  praise  him  forever! 

We  have  at  last  passed  through  the  opening  exercises  of 
the  new  school  year,  my  second  in  the  seminary.  Wednes- 
day morning  came  the  love  feast,  and  the  enrollment  of 
new  students;  in  the  afternoon  the  graduating  exercises 
of  last  year’s  class,  and  the  baccalaureate  address.  Thurs- 
day the  alumni  excursion  to  Plymouth  Rock,  and  in  the 
evening  the  address  by  Dr.  Briggs,  which  highly  delighted 
the  audience.  He  seemed  to  remember  me,  and  talked 
very  pleasantly. 

This  morning  the  long  expected  examinations  took 


262 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


place;  they  passed  without  serious  damage  to  any  one. 
On  Monday  real  serious  work  will  begin.  Four  of  my 
former  fellow  students  from  Delaware  have  arrived. 

My  chum  for  this  year  is  to  be  Brother  Leseman ; he  will 
be  away  every  week  from  Friday  till  Monday,  a feature 
of  the  case  which  I very  much  approve,  since  during  that 
time  I shall  have  sole  possession  of  the  room. 

Trusting  that  I shall  hear  from  you  soon,  and  with 
very  much  love,  Your  son, 

C.  W.  Drees. 

Boston,  October  31,  1872. 

My  dear  Mother: 

Several  days  have  passed  beyond  my  usual  time  for 
writing.  I cannot  describe  how  rapidly  the  time  passes. 
At  the  end  of  the  week  I can  hardly  recall  what  has  been 
done  as  it  passed;  possibly  the  reason  is  that  I am  so 
busily  occupied  and  so  happy  in  my  work.  Not  that  many 
little  matters  do  not  try  and  perplex  me,  but  among  them 
all  I find  a sure  refuge  and  strong  consolation  in  my 
Saviour. 

We  have  had  some  rain  for  the  last  two  weeks,  and  it 
is  still  continuing,  but  on  the  whole,  the  autumn  has  been 
delightful,  with  its  clear  cool  days,  so  invigorating.  Now 
winter  begins  to  make  itself  felt.  Frost  has  stripped  the 
trees  on  the  Common ; the  plank  walks  are  being  laid, 
houses  fortified  against  the  approaching  cold,  etc. 

Every  fine  morning  a number  of  us  play  football  for  an 
hour  on  the  public  playground  in  the  Common ; our  con- 
tests are  very  exciting,  and  we  find  the  exercise  very  bene- 
ficial to  circulation  and  digestion,  though  accompanied  by 
the  inevitable  tired  limbs,  sore  joints  and  so  on. 

No  doubt  you  have  heard  of  the  ravages  of  the  epi- 
zooty  or  horse  distemper  in  this  city.  So  many  of  the 
horses  are  sick,  that  last  Sabbath  no  horse  cars,  nor  in- 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


263 


deed  scarcely  a horse  was  to  be  seen ; naturally  this  made 
the  day  a very  quiet  one.  I wish  more  were  like  them  in 
this  particular.  On  Monday,  as  few  horses  were  out, 
many  amusing  expedients  were  resorted  to  for  necessary 
transportation;  ox  teams  were  seen,  and  men  drew 
wagons;  even  some  horse  cars  were  drawn  over  from 
South  Boston  by  men,  the  employees  of  the  company. 
Now,  however,  the  horses  are  gradually  recovering,  and 
soon  this,  which  strikes  me  as  almost  an  Egyptian  plague, 
will  be  forgotten. 

Political  excitement  runs  high ; last  night  witnessed  a 
magnificent  torch  light  procession,  several  miles  in  length, 
a Grant  and  Wilson  demonstration. 

John  B.  Gough  delivered  one  of  his  characteristic  lec- 
tures to-night ; subject,  “Circumstances.”  . . . 

Boston,  November  12,  1872. 

My  dear  Mother  : 

Before  this  you  will  have  seen  some  account  of  the 
great  fire  which  broke  out  here  Saturday  evening.  It  has 
been  a fearful  calamity,  the  losses  of  which  cannot  now 
be  estimated ; the  very  heart  of  the  city  is  one  mass  of 
ruins.  Probably  no  other  area  of  equal  size  in  any  part 
of  the  town  could  be  burned,  where  the  losses  would,  in 
any  degree,  approximate  the  actual  losses  by  this  fire. 
Nearly  all  the  wholesale  houses  have  been  destroyed; 
buildings  of  granite  structure  that  one  would  think  could 
have  defied  any  combination  of  the  elements;  but  the 
breath  of  fire  enveloped  them,  and  they  are  gone. 

All  along  Washington  Street  the  fire  raged  at  its 
height,  and  came  within  half  a square  of  our  building; 
for  some  hours  it  seemed  as  if  we,  too,  were  to  be  involved 
in  the  catastrophe,  so,  about  one  o’clock  Sunday  morning, 
the  students  began  hastily  moving  their  effects  over  to 
the  Common.  The  scene  that  ensued  is  not  easily  de- 


264 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


scribed : trunks,  furniture,  books  tied  up  in  bed-clothing, 
boxes,  barrels,  mattresses,  all  had  to  be  carried  down  three 
flights  of  stairs,  placed  in  wagons,  which  we  were  for- 
tunate enough  to  secure,  and  hauled  to  the  place  of  de- 
posit. There  were  fifteen  or  twenty  large  wagon  loads, 
perhaps  more.  Two  thirds  of  the  students  being  absent 
at  their  Sunday’s  engagements,  those  of  us  that  were  here 
had  to  move  their  property  too ; I wonder  how  it  was  all 
accomplished!  During  the  rest  of  the  night  and  all  day 
Sunday,  we  had  to  mount  guard  over  our  goods,  that  they 
might  not  be  stolen.  A friend  or  two  helped  me  to  carry 
my  books,  tied  up  in  sheets  and  quilts,  to  the  house  of  an 
acquaintance  on  Temple  Street,  who  had  kindly  asked  me 
to  go  there  in  case  of  necessity. 

Late  Sunday  afternoon,  the  danger  appearing  to  be 
over,  began  the  work  of  bringing  back  our  goods,  and  by 
sundown  the  huge  mass  of  chattels  lay  piled  up  in  dire 
confusion  in  the  hall  on  the  ground  floor  of  the  building. 
Sunday  night  we  appointed  a watch,  and  slept  with 
the  possibility  of  being  awaked  at  any  moment,  to  escape 
once  more  from  the  flames.  The  fire  did  break  out  afresh 
about  midnight,  but  the  danger  passed  by.  I can  explain 
our  escape  in  no  other  way  than  by  a direct  interposition 
of  Providence;  for  no  hand  could  have  stayed  the  flames 
at  Washington  Street.  Had  they  crossed  we  must  have 
been  burned  out. 

Yesterday  was  another  day  of  hard  work ; to-day  I am 
sore  in  every  joint,  and  hardly  able  to  move  about.  The 
expenses  of  the  fire  to  me  will  be  very  small,  perhaps  two 
dollars ; besides  which  I shall  probably  have  to  buy  a new 
pair  of  pants. 

With  much  love,  and  gratitude  to  God  for  my  present 
safety,  I am,  dear  mother, 

Affectionately  your  son, 

C.  W.  D. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


265 


December  7. 

The  Thanksgiving  recess  has  passed  away  pleasantly. 
Early  in  the  morning  we  played  football  on  the  Common ; 
at  10.30  attended  the  annual  Methodist  love  feast  in  Brom- 
field  Street  Church ; took  dinner  and  spent  most  of  the 
afternoon  at  the  house  of  a friend  in  Chester  Park,  and  in 
the  evening  heard  William  Morley  Punshon  lecture.  The 
annual  love  feast,  held  on  Thanksgiving,  is  an  institution 
long  established  here;  the  meeting  this  year  was  a very 
profitable  one.  The  subject  of  Mr.  Punshon’s  lecture  was 
“The  Men  of  the  Mayflower,”  the  finest  lecture  I have  yet 
heard  on  a Boston  platform.  It  abounded  in  periods 
whose  eloquence  one  seldom  hears  equaled;  there  were 
some  home  thrusts  of  evangelical  truth,  especially  appro- 
priate to  a Boston  audience.  It  is  hoped  they  will  bear 
some  fruit. 

Such  was  my  Thanksgiving  day  as  to  its  outward  en- 
joyments; the  day,  however,  brought  with  it  causes  and 
sources  of  a deeper  joy  than  could  spring  from  these  out- 
ward surroundings.  My  heart  was  filled  with  thanks- 
giving to  my  heavenly  Father  for  his  goodness  to  me 
during  the  year;  for  the  great  changes  in  my  religious  ex- 
perience early  in  the  year,  when  I was  enabled  to  give  up 
all  for  Christ  and,  in  simple  trust,  begin  to  realize  the 
fullness  of  -Jesus’  love;  for  the  fulfillment  to  me,  as  I have 
by  faith  accepted  them,  of  the  “exceeding  great  and  pre- 
cious promises” ; for  the  gift  of  the  Comfoi’ter,  to  work 
out  in  me  the  Father's  will,  and  lead  me  in  the  right  way. 
To  these  causes,  let  me  add  that  of  God’s  goodness  in  the 
summer,  which,  beginning  with  what  seemed  hardness, 
has  worked  out  my  very  great  spiritual  good ; and  thank- 
fulness for  the  patience  of  my  father  and  mother,  whose 
kindness  has  provided  me  with  all  things  needful.  You 
see  what  a catalogue  of  mercies  has  been  mine.  They 
make  me  feel  my  unworthiness,  and  the  obligation  to 


2G6 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


yield  myself  and  my  all  to  the  service  and  the  will  of 
God.  . . . 

(In  March  of  the  following  year,  1873,  he  writes) 

Miss  Sarah  Smiley,  the  preacher,  has  been  in  the  city 
this  week,  preaching  every  night  in  the  Warren  Avenue 
Baptist  Church.  A prophet  of  the  Lord  she  certainly  is. 
Her  manner  is  modest,  dignified,  and  womanly;  her  voice 
sweet  and  musical;  her  teaching  clear,  simple,  and  won- 
derful in  its  insight  into  the  Scriptures.  Great  power 
attends  her  preaching,  and  has  led  many  into  abiding 
union  with  Christ.  Perhaps  from  what  I say,  you  will 
think  me  a convert  to  woman’s  preaching.  Well,  I do 
not  think  that  it  can  or  ever  will  be  general,  nor  perhaps 
is  it  desirable;  but  when  the  Lord  does  raise  up  women 
such  as  these,  and  sends  them  out  to  preach,  the  church 
has  no  right  to  frown  upon  them  because  they  are  women. 
The  Head  of  the  church  surely  is  able  to  order  all  this  in 
wisdom ! 

Our  students  not  regularly  employed  have  organized 
into  bands  for  mission  work,  in  the  city  and  vicinity. 
Last  Wednesday,  the  one  with  which  I am  connected  went 
to  a little  place  in  the  suburbs,  where  we  had  an  excel- 
lent meeting;  so  good  was  it  that  we  expect  to  return  to- 
morrow, confident  of  the  Lord's  blessing. 


Boston,  April  7,  1873. 

My  dear  Father  : 

I write  this  morning  to  ask  your  advice  in  a matter  of 
some  importance  to  me  and  which  I think  will  be  of  no 
little  interest  to  you  and  mother.  It  is  in  regard  to  my 
taking  a charge  for  the  year  intervening  between  the 
present  and  the  time  of  my  graduation  next  spring. 

I have  preached  the  last  two  Sundays  at  North  Easton, 
under  the  direction  of  the  presiding  elder.  The  place  was 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


267 


left  to  be  supplied  at  the  late  session  of  the  Providence 
Conference.  The  people  all  seem  very  anxious  to  have  me 
remain  with  them  for  the  year,  and  now  the  responsibility 
is  thrown  upon  me  to  decide  what  I must  do.  I desire  to 
do  just  what  is  my  Master’s  will  in  the  matter,  and  I 
think  you  will  concur  in  that.  I feel,  however,  that  be- 
fore pledging  myself  in  any  way,  I must  tell  you  about 
it,  and  ask  how  you  feel  with  regard  to  it.  I suppose  you 
have  all  been  expecting  me  to  be  at  home  this  summer. 
You  can  hardly  have  been  looking  forward  to  it  with  the 
same  degree  of  pleasure  that  I have.  It  will  be  a little 
hard  for  me  to  lay  aside  so  suddenly  all  my  anticipations 
of  a long  visit  home,  and  yet,  if  that  is  the  path  of  duty, 
I must  follow  it. 

I have  often  thought  about  preaching  next  year,  and 
while  it  will  add  a good  deal  to  my  work  and  require  some 
sacrifices  on  my  part,  yet  there  are  some  good  reasons 
why  I should  accept  work  should  an  opportunity  offer. 
It  would  probably  enable  me  to  meet  and,  by  God’s  help, 
to  conquer  some  difficulties,  which  I must  meet  sooner  or 
later.  It  would  give  me  some  practical  experience,  which 
will  be  of  benefit  to  me  when  I enter  Conference.  It  will 
save  thi*ee  months’  time  for  the  Master.  For,  if  I spend 
this  summer  at  home,  I will  also  be  compelled  (not  un- 
willingly, to  be  sure)  to  spend  next  summer  in  compara- 
tive inactivity. 

If,  however,  I spend  this  summer  in  work,  I will  still 
have  one  long  vacation  before  Conference  time,  to  spend 
at  home  next  summer.  So,  by  taking  this  work,  I will 
save  all  this  summer.  I can  also  have  a vacation  of  two 
or  three  Sabbaths  in  July  when  I can  go  home,  if  you 
want  me  to. 

As  to  the  pecuniary  aspect  of  the  case,  I hardly  feel 
like  speaking  of  it,  for  I know  you  will  not  let  that 
influence  you  a great  deal.  My  salary  will  be  at  least 


268 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


•|400,  and  perhaps  $500,  enough  to  pay  all  necessary  ex- 
penses. 

These  are  the  chief  things  that  influence  my  own  mind, 
and  now  I shall  withhold  my  decision  till  I hear  from 
you.  Let  me  hear  from  you  as  soon  as  possible. 

His  parents  gave  their  hearty  approval  to  this  plan, 
and  he  was  at  once  installed  as  pastor  of  this  charge,  con- 
tinuing with  the  care  of  it  until  he  left  the  seminary,  the 
following  April.  In  July  he  made  a brief  visit  home,  re- 
turning by  way  of  Landisville,  where  a camp  meeting  was 
being  held,  and  spending  a day  or  two  there. 

North  Easton,  August  4,  1873. 

I wrote  you  a note  from  Landisville,  telling  of  my  safe 
arrival  and  kind  reception.  To  my  surprise,  I met  there 
half  a dozen  or  more  friends  and  acquaintances  from  New 
England,  among  them  Amanda  Smith,  who  came  up  to 
shake  hands  with  me  at  the  close  of  the  early  morning 
meeting.  She  is  not  going  to  the  camp  meeting  of  the 
colored  people  at  Xenia,  as  there  is  some  uncertainty  of 
its  continuance  for  the  present.  I attended  meetings  all 
day  Wednesday.  I)r.  and  Mrs.  Lowry  gave  me  an  invita- 
tion to  sleep  in  their  tent  that  night,  which  I did,  occupy- 
ing it  in  company  with  John  Bent,  of  Boston,  and  Rev. 
Isaac  M.  See,  a Presbyterian  clergyman  from  New  Jersey. 

Next  morning,  notwithstanding  pressing  invitations  to 
remain,  it  seemed  better  to  continue  my  journey,  so  I 
took  the  train  at  ten  o’clock,  and  at  night,  the  Fall  River 
boat  for  Boston.  With  a blanket  and  mattress  on  the 
upper  deck  I slept  soundly,  and  reached  the  seminary  in 
the  morning,  coming  on  out  here  in  the  afternoon.  On 
Saturday  I was  greatly  helped  of  God  in  preparing  a 
sermon,  and  on  Sunday  in  preaching  it,  from  Rev.  22.  17, 
but  fear  it  may  have  been  too  long.  Should  I ever  have  a 
wife,  I hope  she  can  and  will  criticize  me  and  help  me  to 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


269 


correct  and  keep  out  of  bad  habits;  I feel  the  need  of  a 
judicious  Censor.  . . . 


(To  bis  mother) 

September  15,  1873. 

I am  once  more  ensconced  in  my  old  room  and  fully 
engaged  in  the  work  of  the  seminary.  It  is  likely  that 
Sunday  work,  together  with  school  duties,  will  give  me 
all  I can  do  and  more.  There  is  much  that  is  exciting  in 
the  reopening  of  the  seminary ; meeting  with  old  class- 
mates after  months  of  separation,  and  listening  to  what 
each  has  to  relate  of  interest  in  his  vacation,  becoming 
acquainted  with  new  students,  the  greetings  of  professors, 
the  assignment  of  work,  and  entrance  upon  new  duties, 
which  open  up  every  day  unexplored  regions  that  invite 
our  willing  feet. 

The  thought  that  this  is  my  senior  year  brings  into 
prominence  the  near  future,  still  so  shadowy  and  un- 
certain. 

Saturday  was  my  twenty-second  birthday,  of  which 
you  will  not  have  been  unmindful,  but  I shall  not  indulge 
here  in  any  of  those  reflections  so  natural  in  connection 
with  such  epochs,  but  will  only  say  that  I am  hoping  for 
strength  and  vigor  for  what  awaits  me.  . . . 

In  October  he  writes : Our  class  is  now  having  drill  ex- 
ercises with  Professor  Monroe,  the  head  of  the  School  of 
Oratory ; we  go  into  the  Bromfield  Street  Church,  and  at 
each  recitation  some  member  of  the  class  delivers  a pre- 
pared address,  on  some  topic  related  to  church  work. 
This  is  then  subjected  to  the  criticism  of  the  class,  of  Pro- 
fessor Townsend,  and  of  Professor  Monroe,  which  is  quite 
an  ordeal  to  the  speaker.  My  turn  came  this  afternoon. 
I should  much  prefer  to  preach  before  a full  audience  than 
to  these  twenty  young  men  and  their  professors,  who  are 


270 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


marking  every  tone,  and  accent,  and  gesture  for  the  ex- 
press purpose  of  dissecting  them.  However,  I came  off 
better  than  I expected,  and  feel  that  the  ordeal  did  me 
good.  . . . 

(To  his  father) 

March  7,  1874. 

Next  Friday  our  examinations  occur,  after  which  I 
shall  have  finished  my  connection  with  the  seminary. 
Naturally,  I think  much  of  my  future  work  and  wonder 
where  it  will  be,  for  there  is  much  uncertainty  about  it  as 
yet.  There  are  some  intimations  of  an  appointment  to  the 
Mexico  Mission,  growing  out  of  the  fact  that  I studied 
Spanish  last  year  with  others,  whose  names  were  sent  to 
the  Mission  Rooms.  I pray,  and  ask  your  prayers,  for 
guidance  in  finding  the  right  place  and  work  for  the 
Master.  . . . 

,,  „ Boston,  March  18. 

31  y dear  Parents  : 

You  will  remember  a rumor  I mentioned  in  my  last 
letter  that  I might  be  appointed  to  3Iexico.  Since  then 
the  matter  has  taken  more  definite  shape,  and  the  ques- 
tion is  now  to  be  decided  whether  or  not  I will  go.  Per- 
haps I ought  to  give  you  a history  of  the  way  in  which 
this  has  come  to  pass.  When  the  Spanish  class  was 
formed,  eighteen  months  ago,  I felt  a desire  to  join  it, 
though  I had  no  definite  intention  of  becoming  a mission- 
ary. It  was  needful  for  the  organization  of  the  class  that 
at  least  five  should  express  a willingness  to  become  mis- 
sionaries. 

When  Dr.  Warren  put  the  question,  I told  him  just 
how  I felt  at  that  time;  that  I desired  and  was  willing  to 
go  wherever  God  and  the  church  most  needed  me,  but 
that  I could  not  pledge  myself  to  go  to  a Spanish-speaking 
country.  Pie  replied  that  in  studying  the  language,  I 
would  place  myself  under  no  obligations,  and  with  that 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


271 


understanding  I entered  the  class.  Dr.  Warren,  it  seems, 
sent  my  name  to  the  Mission  Rooms,  as  one  of  the  Spanish 
class  about  to  graduate. 

The  secretaries  then  sent  a form  of  blank  recommenda- 
tions to  be  filled  out  and  signed  by  the  faculty  and  pre- 
siding elder,  which,  if  satisfactory,  would  make  my  ap- 
pointment sure,  as  another  man  was  needed  in  Mexico. 

The  appointment  is  not  of  my  seeking ; indeed,  as  far  as 
my  preference  is  concerned,  I should  choose  to  be  nearer 
home,  but  I want  to  decide  the  question  in  such  a way  as 
to  please  God  and  get  most  glory  to  his  name.  Now  what 
I want  to  know  is : are  you  willing  to  give  me  to  the  Lord 
for  this  work,  trusting  him  to  take  care  of  my  life  and 
make  me  useful  ? As  far  as  my  own  impressions  of  duty 
are  concerned,  after  praying  over  the  matter  I feel  as 
though  I ought  to  enter  this  open  door. 

A speedy  decision  is  necessary,  as  the  steamer  in  which 
John  Butler  sails  from  New  York,  leaves  on  the  25th  of 
April,  and  I would  be  expected  to  go  at  that  time.  You 
are,  no  doubt,  aware  that  his  father,  Dr.  William  Butler, 
is  superintendent  of  the  Mexico  Mission.  . . . 

Boston,  March  23,  1874. 

My  dear  Parents  : 

I feel  as  though  I have  a very  difficult  task  to  perform 
this  morning  in  writing  as  I must.  I wrote  the  inclosed 
letter  last  Wednesday,  but  felt  a great  hesitation  in  send- 
ing it,  and  so  waited,  hoping  to  receive  a letter  from  you 
that  might  give  me  some  light.  Friday  I had  a letter  from 
Dr.  Eddy,  saying  that  they  had  received  sufficient  recom- 
mendations, and  that  I was  appointed.  An  immediate 
decision  was  necessary,  and  yet  I hardly  knew  how  to 
make  it  without  consulting  you.  But  I remembered  a 
letter  of  mother’s,  written  some  time  ago,  in  which  she 
said  in  substance  that  she  would  not  wish  to  deter  me  in 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


the  path  of  duty.  Though  I knew  it  would  be  hard  for 
her,  I felt  sure  that  she  would  have  strength  to  accept  my 
decision.  I laid  the  whole  matter  before  God  that  night, 
and  waited  long  to  know  his  will.  The  result  is  that,  with 
the  light  I now  have,  I feel  it  my  duty  to  accept  the  ap- 
pointment, and  go  at  the  time  set  for  Brother  Butler’s  de- 
parture, April  25.  I shall  see  Dr.  Eddy  this  week  and 
talk  with  him,  and  if  anything  should  occur  in  God’s 
providence,  to  change  this  decision,  I shall  most  gladly 
accept  it.  If  not,  I shall  be  ordained  deacon  and  elder 
next  Sunday,  at  the  Providence  Conference,  and  reach 
home  by  the  middle  of  next  week,  April  1 or  2.  I shall 
have  at  least  three  weeks  at  home. 

My  dear  father  and  mother,  the  hardest  thing  I have 
had  to  get  over  in  this  decision,  has  been  the  disappoint- 
ment to  our  hopes  of  being  not  far  separated.  I have  been 
greatly  strengthened  from  above,  or  I could  not  have  done 
it.  I have  God’s  promise  that  you,  too,  shall  have  grace 
sufficient. 

We  must  not  forget  the  bright  features  of  this  decision. 
Mexico  is  only  two  weeks’  distant  from  home,  and  may 
soon  be  brought  much  nearer  by  increased  facilities  for 
communication.  We  can  exchange  letters  every  three 
weeks.  I feel  great  consolation  because  you  have  all  the 
other  children  near  you,  and  I know  they  will  be  a com- 
fort and  joy  to  you.  It  is  a grand  work  to  which  I go  and, 
by  God’s  blessing  and  strength,  I hope  to  be  very  useful 
in  it.  I should  like  to  have  a letter  from  you  before  I 
start  for  home.  I think  I might  receive  one  even  if  it  were 
mailed  as  late  as  Friday.  With  much  love  to  all, 

Your  son, 

C.  W.  Drees. 

Nothing  occurred  to  change  the  decision,  and  the  plans 
outlined  in  this  letter  were  carried  out  as  arranged. 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


273 


On  his  departure  from  the  seminary  a farewell  supper 
was  given  in  his  honor  by  a few  of  his  most  intimate 
friends.  An  account  of  it  appeared  in  the  Western  Chris- 
tian Advocate  of  the  following  week,  for  which  we  are  in- 
debted to  Rev.  Davis  Clark,  one  of  the  number  present  on 
this  occasion.  It  shows  the  interest  of  these  young  men  in 
the  new  missionary : 

“Rev.  C.  W.  Drees,  an  alumnus  of  the  Ohio  Wesleyan 
University,  and  recently  a graduate  of  the  Boston  Theo- 
logical Seminary,  was  ordained  deacon  and  elder  at  the 
late  session  of  the  Providence  Conference,  and  appointed 
missionary  to  Mexico.  Brother  Drees  left  Boston  on  the 
23d  ult.,  to  make  a brief  visit  to  his  relatives  at  Xenia  and 
Cincinnati.  Before  his  departure  his  more  intimate 
friends  in  the  seminary  tendered  him  an  impromptu  ‘fare- 
well.’ A supper  was  ordered  in  a neighboring  restaurant, 
which,  though  accordant  with  the  proverbial  slimness  of 
divinity  students’  purses,  was  yet  liberal  and  substantial. 
Fourteen  sat  down  to  the  table,  all  but  three  of  whom 
were  ‘Ohio  boys,’  and  all  but  four  alumni  of  the  Ohio 
Wesleyan.  Informal  speeches  were  made  expressive  of 
affectionate  interest  in  Brother  Drees,  and  hopes  for  his 
safety  and  success  in  the  new  field  of  labor,  which,  in  the 
light  of  recent  events,  threatens  to  be  rather  perilous. 
After  singing  ‘Shall  we  gather  at  the  river,’  the  party 
adjourned  to  the  seminary  parlor,  where  prayer  was  of- 
fered for  the  outgoing  missionary.  Brother  Drees  will 
sail  from  New  York  the  latter  part  of  the  present  month, 
in  company  with  Rev.  John  W.  Butler,  son  of  Dr.  Butler, 
now  in  Mexico,  who  has  also  been  appointed  to  that 
Mission.” 

On  Mr.  Drees’s  departure  for  Mexico,  a friend  and 
neighbor  who  was  a contributor  for  many  years  to  the 
Ladies’  Repository  and  other  publications,  sent  him  the 
following  lines  from  her  pen : 


274 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


God  speed  thee,  youthful  champion  of  the  Cross, 

Mid  scenes  untried,  and  conflicts  ever  new; 

Thou’st  counted  all  thy  earthly  hope  but  dross, 

Thy  blessed  mission  gladly  to  pursue. 

Thy  Captain  called  thee,  in  the  dawn  of  life, 

And  placed  thy  name  upon  His  warriors’  roll, 

And  nobly  thou’st  sustained  the  arduous  strife 
Which  Satan  wages  for  each  ransomed  soul. 

And  now  He  summons  thee  to  climes  afar, 

To  raise  His  banner  on  a foreign  shore, 

Thy  guiding  light  shall  be  sweet  Bethlehem’s  star, 

Thy  priceless  guerdon  life  for  evermore. 

God  speed  thee  on  thy  mission,  honored  one, 

And  nerve  thy  arm,  wher’er  thou  may’st  sojourn, 

To  hold  the  Cross  of  the  ascended  Son 
O’er  human  victims  from  their  idols  torn. 

And  led  to  Jesus  by  the  story  sweet, 

Of  Cross  and  Manger  and  Redemption’s  fount, 

Until  the  joyous  victory  is  complete, 

And  ransomed  heathen  laid  at  Calvary’s  mount. 

Then  fare  thee  well,  though  loved  and  mourned  and  gone. 
Round  many  a heart  thy  memory  shall  twine, 

And  many  a prayer  ascend  the  Eternal  Throne 
That  God’s  best  blessings  may  be  ever  thine. 

Dear  Charley  : 

We  shall  probably  never  meet  again  on  earth.  Before 
you  return,  in  all  human  probability,  I shall  have  passed 
away.  Pray  for  me  that  we  meet  in  the  upper  home. 

Your  sincere  friend, 

E.  F.  Wilson. 

(In  spite  of  the  sorrowful  tone  of  this  last  stanza,  the 
writer  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  the  young  missionary 
on  at  least  one  return  to  his  home  on  furlough.) 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


275 


A reception  and  farewell  was  given  him  in  his  home 
church,  which  was  largely  attended  not  only  by  the  mem- 
bers of  the  congregation,  but  also  by  representatives  from 
all  the  churches  in  the  city.  Several  ministers  as  well  as 
various  prominent  laymen  spoke  in  most  cordial  and  af- 
fectionate terms,  and  universal  interest  was  manifested 
in  the  young  missionary’s  departure  for  his  distaut  field 
of  labor. 


(Bishop  Henry  W.  Warren) 

Denver,  Colo.,  December  22,  1886. 
Dear  Brother  Drees: 

Welcome  to  your  own  home!  You  come  back  in  honor 
to  that  which  you  left  at  the  call  of  duty.  Give  my 
heartiest  love  to  the  mother  of  such  a son,  and  to  the  wife 
of  such  a husband. 

Most  assuredly  you  will  have  my  heartiest  support  in 
the  future  as  in  the  past.  Bishop  Fowler  has  told  you  all 
my  plans  and  thought,  in  his  plans  and  thought.  I have 
been  away  from  home  or  my  reply  would  have  gone  sooner. 
My  travel  in  this  country  will  foot  up  to  20,000  miles  this 
year. 

All  the  family  loves  you  and  Mrs.  Drees,  and  all  wish 
you  God  speed  and  great  success. 

Sincerely  yours, 

H.  W.  Warren. 


(Rev.  J.  M.  Reid) 

New  York,  March  28,  1887. 

Dear  Brother  : 

I am  greatly  gratified  at  your  purpose  to  make  a dem- 
onstration on  the  occasion  of  the  departure  of  Brother 
Drees  for  his  new  field  in  South  America.  I will  say  to 
you  that  the  administration  of  this  brother  has  been  of 


276 


THIRTEEN  YEARS  IN  MEXICO 


such  a wise  character,  as  to  commend  itself  without  ex- 
ceptions to  the  bishops  and  Missionary  Board. 

He  now  goes  to  a more  distant  and  more  discouraging 
field;  that  is,  oue  in  which  the  work  does  not  advance  so 
rapidly  as  it  is  advancing  in  Mexico.  It  is  one  of  our 
oldest  missions,  and  he  will  have  to  overcome  very  many 
old  traditions  that  have  gathered  about  the  Mission,  that 
are  in  the  way  of  its  highest  prosperity.  But  he  is  so 
gentle,  and  yet  so  firm,  that  I believe  he  is  eminently 
adapted  to  this  work. 

I would  suggest,  if  you  could  do  it,  that  in  some  way  or 
other  the  history  of  the  work  in  Mexico  should  be  pre- 
sented at  that  meeting  in  brief,  and  the  history  of  our 
work  in  South  America.  But,  of  course,  the  address  of 
Brother  Drees,  himself,  and  words  from  his  wife,  if  that 
could  be  obtained,  would  be  the  chief  feature  of  the 
evening. 

I myself  am  very  much  impressed  by  the  prayers  that 
may  be  offered,  especially  for  their  safety  in  the  outgoing, 
and  for  their  success  in  the  field.  Some  one  of  the  right 
kind  appointed,  and  the  whole  congregation  invited  to 
unite  in  prayer,  would  give  this  a deep  solemnity.  These 
are  hints  about  the  meeting  that  1 expect  would  occur  to 
your  own  mind.  Indeed,  there  is  nothing  about  this  mat- 
ter of  meeting  that  would  not  likely  occur  to  you  after  a 
little  thought.  But  as  you  have  been  kind  enough  to  ask 
for  some  suggestions,  I simply  write  these  lines  without 
being  able  really  to  make  any  suggestions  so  good  as  those 
which  will  come  to  your  own  heart. 

I hope  very  much  that  you  will  furnish  the  papers  with 
a good  report  of  this  meeting.  If  you  desire  it,  I would 
appear  at  that  meeting  by  brief  letter;  yet  letters  of  that 
sort  are  not  particularly  interesting  on  such  an  occasion. 

Truly  yours, 

J.  M.  Reid,  Corresponding  Secretary. 


Date  Due 




• r 75  '5T 

<f) 

